Phinda Game Reserve, an exclusive 23,000-hectare private reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, is renowned for offering one of South Africa's finest wildlife-viewing experiences. If you’ve already ticked off the Big Five, at least once, then the mere fact that Phinda harbours elephants, leopards, lions, buffalo and rhino may not be enough to attract you. This famous private reserve reserve encompasses a supremely rich variety of habitats including vivid subtropical woodlands, grasslands, mountains and wetlands, and it lies close to the Indian Ocean coast, making it every bit as interesting to the tree and plant enthusiast in me as to the wildlife enthusiast. Here's a detailed review of &Beyond Phinda Rock Lodge, highlighting its unique offerings and why it's worth the visit.
Location and Accessibility
This 70,560-acre private game reserve is located in northern KwaZulu-Natal, not far from the Indian Ocean on the east coast of South Africa. It's a 3.5-hour drive from Durban or a flight on Airlink from Johannesburg or Cape Town to Phinda's airstrip; there are daily flights. We drove from Durban to Phinda (don't know that I'd recommend it unless you have nerves of steel) with a reservation made at andBeyond Phinda Rock Lodge in September 2015.
The Vibe and First Impressions
The "front door," so to speak, is a gravel road winding up to the lodge, and the perks of the jaw-rattling ride are the early animal sightings: There were zebra, warthogs, and giraffe everywhere, before you even begin your safari. I saw two of the Big Five-elephant and buffalo-on the first day alone, and the remaining (lion, leopard, rhino) shortly after.
There are multiple andBeyond lodges in this game reserve: Phinda Forest Lodge, Phinda Mountain Lodge, Phinda Rock Lodge, Phinda Vlei Lodge (which reopened in 2018 after a complete renovation), Phinda Zuka Lodge, and Phinda Homestead. We only stayed at Rock Lodge, so will focus on that.
Luxurious Suites at Phinda Rock Lodge
Phinda Rock Lodge has six suites, built of contoured stone and adobe-our own private pueblo in Zululand. Each comes with an outdoor deck and plunge pool (with visitors-see below), big ensuite bathrooms and outdoor showers, and feels entirely secluded and romantic. If you're celebrating an anniversary or birthday, tell the staff ahead of time, and they may surprise you by prepping a champagne-and-roses bath at night.
Read also: Read our Phinda Mountain Lodge Review
Culinary Delights
We never stopped eating! Or drinking. From the gin cocktail the moment we arrived, served up and looking all too much like a glass of water, to the multi-course dinners served on the outdoor terrace, to the late-day Amarula and biltong snacks during the game drive-all were well prepped, locally sourced, and very satisfying. Dinner at Phinda Rock Lodge is a Pan-African banquet. Rock Lodge was wonderful, although they tried their best to over feed us!
Incredible Safari Experiences
It was all incredible. Since the reserve is near the water (both lake and ocean) it gets coastal rain, which means things are lush across seven different ecosystems. We spotted the Big Five easily on two-a-day game drive, but there were so many special sightings: a pregnant zebra, an albino giraffe, a cheetah and cubs, white and black rhinos (and their babies!) that looked like they had stumbled out of some prehistoric time warp. We crashed through brush-over shrubs and what looked like small trees-as we followed a lioness on a hunt at dusk. We also watched several young lions learn how to kill their prey, a baby baboon; they played with their food and it was a heartbreaking, circle-of-life moment. Birds are the unexpected co-stars every day.
Best of all: During an afternoon break back at our room, we were hanging out by the plunge pool, thinking life is pretty great, when a baby elephant wanders up to our deck. And then a whole herd of elephants comes up for a drink, trunks sneaking up into our pool. We were within feet of this beautiful family, all taking a mid-afternoon break to cool off. Unforgettable.
Other Cultural and Outdoor Experiences
We did a walking safari that, to no fault of our guide, didn't turn up much-but we learned a lot about how to track animals by their droppings! Unfortunately, we took home a souvenir from that hour-long nature walk: tick bites, and eventually tick bite fever. We were warned that the area was known for ticks, and though we dressed appropriately and checked ourselves after the hour-long walk, we still got bit.
KwaZulu-Natal’s answer to Sabi Sands is Phinda Game Reserve, an exclusive 230km2/89mi2 private reserve. It offers world-class Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo) viewing on guided game drives in open 4x4s. The drives are based out of a handful of stylish small lodges that represent the ultimate in safari chic. Phinda seldom disappoints when it comes to the Big Five. While leopard sightings are somewhat erratic, it is one of a handful of African reserves where the endangered black rhino can be tracked down with reasonable ease. It also offers some of the finest cheetah viewing I’ve had anywhere, and all the wildlife is very habituated. Guiding standards are also very high.
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The Staff
Our safari guide's passion about what he did-he was a twenty-something city transplant turned outdoorsman-made us want to quit our jobs and be guides right alongside him. We peppered him with questions constantly, and he answered everything knowingly, with humor and detail. The service from the staff was beyond anything we could have expected and the game drives were spectacular.
Wildlife Diversity
Although it is the Big Five that attracts most first-time safari-goers, the reserve protects an interesting diversity of more localized habitats. Of note is a tract of rare sand forest, where the secretive suni antelope and red duiker can be seen. here, such as African broadbill, Narina trogon, Neergard’s sunbird and green twinspot pink-throated twinspot. Birders keen to make the most of this opportunity should book into Forest Lodge.
KwaZulu-Natal’s top spot for game viewing is without a doubt Phinda Private Game Reserve. For a relatively small park it harbours a huge diversity of wildlife and sightings are virtually guaranteed. It’s also one of the best places to see Africa’s big cats. Lion and leopard are plentiful and thanks to the careful reintroduction of cheetah into the area after 50 years of absence, you can now watch these magnificent cats play and hunt in the wild.
During my last trip I had an incredible up-close night encounter with a leopard and the next day spied a cheetah hiding with her cubs in the long grass. What an amazing experience! But it’s not just the cats that make Phinda so special.
Phinda Game Reserve is a well-known &Beyond reserve in the heart of KwaZulu-Natal. The quality of wildlife viewing is on a par with what you can expect in the prestigious Sabi Sands Game Reserve. However, Phinda is fully fenced, unlike Sabi Sands, which is part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem with open borders. Early morning and afternoon game drives are centered on finding the Big Five. Leopard sightings are hit-and-miss but, for me, this is more than compensated for by the amazing cheetah encounters I’ve had here. The quality of guiding is excellent and even birders tend to be well-catered for. There are six &Beyond lodges on the property, each with a unique feel and setting but all offering the highest standard of service and food. My favorite is Forest Lodge, tucked away in a special patch of rare sand forest.
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The impala jumped out of the bushes, narrowly missing a collision with our safari vehicle, and then stumbled and fell. For the rest of that morning, we watched this beautiful cat, and her three little cubs, dine heartily.
Phinda is a privately owned nature reserve in KZN, situated in the lush green bush that typifies this province of South Africa. This private Big 5 reserve in kwaZulu-Natal is famous for its abundance of game and the lodge offers exciting game drives and guided nature walks to absorb the drama.
Special Memories
This is where my husband chose to propose so it will always be a magical and very romantic place for me! That aside, Phinda is well known to boast one of the most beautifully diverse landscapes in Africa, with great game viewing to match.
Phinda was truly a once in a lifetime experience - Rock Lodge was 5 star in our book! Phinda was an amazing experience Ist class and have fantastic photos on THE BIG FIVE !!! It was extremely hot there and we did the two game drives each day. Had lovely company… young couple from Durban and an English couple.
Pricing and Inclusions
At today's exchange rate, about US$798 a night per person. Included: all food and beverage (including house wine, local spirits, and beer, but not premium liquor or champagne); twice daily game drives; one-hour bush walks. Children ages 12 and older allowed.
Best Time to Visit
Dry winter months of May to September, when wildlife viewing is at its best.
Bottom line: Was this property worth the money, time, and effort to get here? 1,000 percent.
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Phinda Forest Lodge | Munywana Conservancy | South Africa
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