Phinda Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal’s answer to Sabi Sands, is an exclusive 230km2 private reserve offering world-class Big Five viewing on guided game drives in open 4x4s. The drives are based out of a handful of stylish small lodges that represent the ultimate in safari chic. If you’ve already ticked off the Big Five, at least once, then the mere fact that Phinda harbors elephants, leopards, lions, buffalo and rhino may not be enough to attract you. However, this famous private reserve encompasses a supremely rich variety of habitats including vivid subtropical woodlands, grasslands, mountains and wetlands, and it lies close to the Indian Ocean coast, making it every bit as interesting to the tree and plant enthusiast as to the wildlife enthusiast.
Location and Accessibility
The exclusive 23,000 hectare Phinda Private Game Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal is the setting for one of South Africa’s finest wildlife-viewing experiences. This 70,560-acre private game reserve is in northern KwaZulu-Natal, not far from the Indian Ocean on the east coast of South Africa. It's a 3.5-hour drive from Durban or a flight on Airlink from Johannesburg or Cape Town to Phinda's airstrip; there are daily flights.
Wildlife Viewing
KwaZulu-Natal’s top spot for game viewing is without a doubt Phinda Private Game Reserve. For a relatively small park it harbors a huge diversity of wildlife and sightings are virtually guaranteed. It’s also one of the best places to see Africa’s big cats. Lion and leopard are plentiful and thanks to the careful reintroduction of cheetah into the area after 50 years of absence, you can now watch these magnificent cats play and hunt in the wild. Phinda seldom disappoints when it comes to the Big Five.
While leopard sightings are somewhat erratic, it is one of a handful of African reserves where the endangered black rhino can be tracked down with reasonable ease. It also offers some of the finest cheetah viewing I’ve had anywhere, and all the wildlife is very habituated. Guiding standards are also very high.
Although it is the Big Five that attracts most first-time safari-goers, the reserve protects an interesting diversity of more localized habitats. Of note is a tract of rare sand forest, where the secretive suni antelope and red duiker can be seen. Birders keen to make the most of this opportunity should book into Forest Lodge.
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Phinda Game Reserve is a well-known &Beyond reserve in the heart of KwaZulu-Natal. The quality of wildlife viewing is on a par with what you can expect in the prestigious Sabi Sands Game Reserve. However, Phinda is fully fenced, unlike Sabi Sands, which is part of the Greater Kruger ecosystem with open borders. Early morning and afternoon game drives are centered on finding the Big Five. Leopard sightings are hit-and-miss but, for me, this is more than compensated for by the amazing cheetah encounters I’ve had here. The quality of guiding is excellent and even birders tend to be well-catered for.
During my last trip I had an incredible up-close night encounter with a leopard and the next day spied a cheetah hiding with her cubs in the long grass. What an amazing experience! But it’s not just the cats that make Phinda so special.
Cheetahs at Phinda
Lodges and Accommodation
There are six &Beyond lodges on the property, each with a unique feel and setting but all offering the highest standard of service and food. There are multiple andBeyond lodges in this game reserve: Phinda Forest Lodge, Phinda Mountain Lodge, Phinda Rock Lodge, Phinda Vlei Lodge (which reopened in 2018 after a complete renovation), Phinda Zuka Lodge, and Phinda Homestead.
One of South Africa’s oldest private game reserves, Phinda Private Game Reserve is a 74,000-acre protected wilderness area with lush, undulating mountains, rivers, woodland, and vleis. A three-hour drive north of Durban, it’s one of the most prestigious and successful wildlife areas in the region, which has been hard hit by poaching. There are many andBeyond lodges (six) to choose from here, but Phinda Forest Lodge might be the most unique. Located within 2,471 acres of one of the oldest and last-remaining sand forests in Africa, the very location is probably unlike anywhere you’ve ever stayed before. It’s also the latest lodge to undergo an entire revamp, with 16 free-standing wood and glass-encased suites that have been entirely reimagined, as well as a new library and pool.
My favorite is Forest Lodge, tucked away in a special patch of rare sand forest.
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Phinda Rock Lodge
Phinda Rock Lodge has six suites, built of contoured stone and adobe-our own private pueblo in Zululand. Each comes with an outdoor deck and plunge pool (with visitors-see below), big ensuite bathrooms and outdoor showers, and feels entirely secluded and romantic. If you're celebrating an anniversary or birthday, tell the staff ahead of time, and they may surprise you by prepping a champagne-and-roses bath at night.
Phinda Forest Lodge Rooms
Tucked within a sea of towering Lebombo Wattles and Torchwood trees, the stilted, standalone, glass-fronted rooms feel like giant tree houses. Responsible for the interiors is Fox Browne Creative, a studio that’s worked on some of the finest lodges across the continent. They’ve brought their signature contemporary style and created slick, masculine rooms that have dark-wood frames, forest-green curtains, woven rugs, and raffia pendant lamps. The bathroom has a giant oval bathtub that faces the forest (where no one can see in), and there’s a shaded private deck with a daybed, ideal for an afternoon snooze. If you’re lucky, you might spot a red duiker or suni, which are native to the forest and meander around camp.
Dining Experience
We never stopped eating! Or drinking. From the gin cocktail the moment we arrived, served up and looking all too much like a glass of water, to the multi-course dinners served on the outdoor terrace, to the late-day Amarula and biltong snacks during the game drive-all were well prepped, locally sourced, and very satisfying.
You may be surprised to find bao buns or peanut noodles on the menu, until you learn that the chef Benjamin Wicks spent time in Asia where he picked up loads of flavors and techniques. Breakfast is usually a bit more traditional, with plates of eggs and elaborate, tiered food stands with an array of goodies ranging from hunks of cheese to slivers of salmon and slices of watermelon. Lunch and dinner usually steer Asian, except for boma nights when dinner is served in the boma area with tables set in the sand around a fire and the menu is a South African extravaganza; chefs grill boerewors (local sausage), chicken, and steak over the open fire. There’s also an abundance of local things to try, from chakalaka (tomato relish) to samp (made from corn).
Activities and Experiences
Like most safari experiences, the rhythm of the day is dictated by twice-daily game drives. The timing of these is rigid (unless you book your own vehicle), which isn’t a big issue because the drives commence in the morning and evening; generally when animal activity is at its highest. Beyond scouring for lions, leopards, and elephants, there’s plenty else to do: Hop on an e-bike, head for a guided bush walk, visit a Zulu village or check out the work andBeyond has been doing with the local communities and the Africa Foundation. Of course, hanging around camp is an enticing option too: Hit the gym, have a spa treatment, or laze by the pool where the animals swing by for an afternoon drink. Children of all ages are welcome (though they aren’t all allowed on the vehicles) and there are loads of kid’s activities as well as babysitters so parents can enjoy a child-free dinner or drive. One of the more adventurous activities is heading to the coast, a short drive away, where guests can witness turtles hatching in Sodwana Bay. How often do you get to see sea turtles on a bush safari?
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Incredible. It was all incredible. Since the reserve is near the water (both lake and ocean) it gets coastal rain, which means things are lush across seven different ecosystems. We spotted the Big Five easily on two-a-day game drive, but there were so many special sightings: a pregnant zebra, an albino giraffe, a cheetah and cubs, white and black rhinos (and their babies!) that looked like they had stumbled out of some prehistoric time warp. We crashed through brush-over shrubs and what looked like small trees-as we followed a lioness on a hunt at dusk. We also watched several young lions learn how to kill their prey, a baby baboon; they played with their food and it was a heartbreaking, circle-of-life moment. Birds are the unexpected co-stars every day.
Best of all: During an afternoon break back at our room, we were hanging out by the plunge pool, thinking life is pretty great, when a baby elephant wanders up to our deck. And then a whole herd of elephants comes up for a drink, trunks sneaking up into our pool. We were within feet of this beautiful family, all taking a mid-afternoon break to cool off. Unforgettable.
Other Cultural or Outdoor Experiences
We did a walking safari that, to no fault of our guide, didn't turn up much-but we learned a lot about how to track animals by their droppings! Unfortunately, we took home a souvenir from that hour-long nature walk: tick bites, and eventually tick bite fever. We were warned that the area was known for ticks, and though we dressed appropriately and checked ourselves after the hour-long walk, we still got bit.
Spa and Wellness
With so much else to do, the spa area isn’t somewhere you’ll linger-but if you can squeeze in a treatment, definitely do. There are only two treatment rooms, so book in advance. The spa menu is concise, with a selection of massages and wraps using Healing Earth oils.
Service Quality
The team, which is mostly from KwaZulu Natal, is generally warm, welcoming and thoughtful. When I mentioned one rainy afternoon that I was craving a hot bath, I later returned to my room to find a warm tub billowing with bubbles. Some of the more senior staff have been there for two decades, while a few others are part of a youth training program, where kids from surrounding areas with employment opportunities are low are given an opportunity to gain hands-on experience. The guide team is young but incredibly knowledgeable. Though my guide had only been guiding for under two years, I really couldn’t fault her.
Eco-Friendly Initiatives
Considering that Phinda is rewilded farmland and that conservation is a big focus for andBeyond, eco efforts are at the core. For the lodge itself, the designers worked with most of the existing structures (the bones of the rooms are all original) to minimize impact on the environment. Experiences are all rooted in conservation or community-whether it’s walking or driving through the bush and learning about the flora and fauna or visiting one of the nearby villages.
Accessibility
The lodge isn’t wheelchair accessible, so anyone who may need that should rather book at Phinda Zuka, Phinda Homestead, or Phinda Mountain, which are all wheelchair-friendly.
Additional Tips
If you have a specific interest, like birding, book a private guide. While the guides do a great job at trying to accommodate everyone’s interest, inevitably, you won’t be able to do whatever you want. This also goes for people who prefer to not share their holiday with others, as you do stop for coffee and sundowners (and have dinner at the boma) with the other guests on your vehicle. If you love meeting people however, then sharing a vehicle can be a really fun experience and you’ll likely go home with a few new numbers in your phone.
Pricing and Inclusions
At today's exchange rate, about US$798 a night per person. Included: all food and beverage (including house wine, local spirits, and beer, but not premium liquor or champagne); twice daily game drives; one-hour bush walks. Children ages 12 and older allowed.
Here's a summary of what's included in the stay:
| Inclusions | Details |
|---|---|
| Accommodation | Luxury suites with private amenities |
| Food & Beverage | All meals, house wine, local spirits, and beer |
| Game Drives | Twice daily guided game drives in open 4x4s |
| Bush Walks | One-hour guided bush walks |
Best Time to Visit
Dry winter months of May to September, when wildlife viewing is at its best.
Final Thoughts
Bottom line: Was this property worth the money, time, and effort to get here? 1,000 percent.
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