The Michelin Guide, renowned for its influence on the culinary world, has a rich history dating back to the early 20th century. To increase the demand for cars, and accordingly car tyres, the car tyre manufacturers and brothers Édouard and André Michelin published a guide for French motorists, the Guide Michelin (Michelin Guide). Nearly 35,000 copies of this first, free edition were distributed.
Over the years, the guide expanded its coverage to various countries, becoming a symbol of culinary excellence. In 1904, the brothers published a guide for Belgium, and then for Algeria and Tunisia (1907); the Alps and the Rhine (northern Italy, Switzerland, Bavaria, and the Netherlands) (1908); Germany, Spain, and Portugal (1910); the British Isles (1911); and "The Countries of the Sun" (Les Pays du Soleil) (Northern Africa, Southern Italy and Corsica) (1911).
Following the usage of the Murray's and Baedeker guides, the guide began to award stars for restaurants in 1926. Initially, there was only a single star awarded. Then, in 1931, the hierarchy of zero, one, two, and three stars was introduced. In 1931 the cover was changed from blue to red and has remained so in all subsequent editions.
The Michelin Guide's Evolution
The Michelin Guide has continuously evolved, introducing new features and adapting to changing culinary landscapes. Since 1997, the guide has also highlighted restaurants offering "exceptionally good food at moderate prices", a feature now called "Bib Gourmand". In 2020, the Michelin Guide launched a sustainability emblem to symbolise excellence in sustainable gastronomy. Michelin began awarding "keys" to hotels starting in 2024.
It is interesting to know that the Michelin Guide ended printed copies in 2021. After 121 years, Michelin transitioned to digital publication and released a proprietary app.
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Michelin states that the key award will be given after stays conducted anonymously by Michelin Guide selection teams use five criteria: excellence in architecture and interior design, quality and consistency of service, overall personality and character, value for the price, and a significant contribution to the neighborhood or setting.
All listed restaurants, regardless of their star, Bib Gourmand, or Plate status, also receive a "fork and spoon" designation, as a subjective reflection of the overall comfort and quality of the restaurant. Rankings range from one to five: one fork and spoon represents a "comfortable restaurant" and five signifies a "luxurious restaurant".
South Africa's Rising Fine Dining Scene
While the Michelin Guide has yet to extend its reach to South Africa, the fine dining scene in its major cities is undeniably flourishing. The Test Kitchen was the only African restaurant to be included in Elite Traveler’s Top 100 Restaurants in the World, finishing 46th in the 2018 results. Head chef Luke Dale-Roberts is behind its success.
Here are some of the notable restaurants and culinary experiences in South Africa:
- The Test Kitchen: Head chef Luke Dale-Roberts specializes in pairing ingredients and flavors that a traditionalist would never serve together.
- La Colombe: Norris-Rogers cut his teeth under the La Colombe’s chef-restaurateur Scot Kirton, but has become a culinary star in his own right with outstanding classic French food.
- The Orient Hotel: Pretoria’s The Orient Hotel is considered to be one of South Africa’s most opulent properties. Head chef Chantel Dartnall is the genius behind the wonderfully diverse fare, which is always served in spectacular fashion.
These establishments showcase the diverse culinary talent and exceptional dining experiences that South Africa has to offer.
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Unique Dining Experiences
South Africa offers a range of unique dining experiences that blend local flavors with international culinary techniques.
One such experience can be found at One&Only Cape Town, a property that promises luxury and culinary excellence. It’s home to Africa’s only restaurant by the prolific master-chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa (you may know him simply as Nobu), and another by Reuben Riffel, among South Africa’s own top culinary stars.
Another notable destination is Franschhoek, a village with a Provençal character. It's no surprise that food and wine are the focus of Le Quartier Francais; La Petit Colombe, the restaurant, is sister to the celebrated La Colombe in the Constantia Valley wine region.
Restaurant JAN: A South African Gem in France
Restaurant JAN, an intimate 20-seater restaurant in Nice’s Old Port district, takes guests on a culinary exploration using only local and seasonal ingredients from surrounding farms on the Cote’d Azur. As a tribute to my homeland and a nod to my adopted city, the JAN team constantly strives for contrasts between flavours, origins and cultures through a mix of French and South African cuisine.
Restaurant JAN’s culinary offering is informed by a love for authentic cuisine inspired by our phenomenal location on the French Mediterranean and Chef Jan Hendrik’s home country of South Africa. Our seasonal menus take their lead from seasonal local produce made available by local artisanal producers and fresh produce markets, and we prioritise sustainability and minimal waste in everything we do.
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The seven-course tasting menu is designed to showcase the work of our suppliers and chefs in a one-of-a-kind experience. A visit to MARIA is included in the menu where guests can roam the selection of the finest curated cheese and preserves.
Restaurant JAN offers a variety of wine pairings featuring the best of South Africa and France’s world-class varietals.
Jan Hendrik, SA's Michelin star chef!
Criticism and Controversies
The Michelin Guide has faced its share of criticism and controversies over the years. Some non-French food critics have alleged that the rating system is biased in favour of French cuisine or French dining standards. There have also been allegations of favoritism towards famous and influential chefs.
Some chefs have even expressed a desire to relinquish their Michelin stars, citing the pressure to maintain standards and the expectations of customers. After receiving a star for a perfumed cuisine in 2009, the restaurant chef Julio Biosca felt the award was granted to dishes that he did not like and which restricted his creativity. He tried to remove his star, and in December 2013 he discontinued his tasting menu.
Table: Michelin Guide Timeline
| Year | Event |
|---|---|
| 1900 | First Michelin Guide published in France |
| 1926 | Michelin Guide begins awarding stars for restaurants |
| 1931 | Hierarchy of zero, one, two, and three stars was introduced |
| 1956 | First Michelin Guide for Italy published |
| 2005 | First American guide published, covering New York City |
| 2020 | Michelin Guide launches a sustainability emblem |
| 2021 | Michelin Guide ends printed copies |
| 2024 | Michelin Guide begins awarding "keys" to hotels |
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