I seriously thought that Ethiopia was a touristic, well-known country in the West but, when I came back from my trip, I was surprised to find out that many people had absolutely no clue about it, like they didn’t even know about its geographical location. The truth is that traveling can be extremely subjective and, while Ethiopia may be a relatively touristic country as per Against the Compass standards - meaning that this is one of the most visited countries I talk about in this blog - compared to other average destinations, it is a real off the beaten track destination.
Ethiopia is full of wonders, from the tribal cultures of the Omo Valley to the rare and unusual animals in the Semien Mountains. It is, however, Ethiopia’s cultural sites that are likely to make the biggest impression on you. Religion is an important driving force in Ethiopian society and has inspired some of their greatest achievements.
Ethiopia is Africa as you’ve never seen it, and richly rewards explorers. And if that wasn’t enough, Ethiopia was recently rebranded the Land of Origins by the Ministry of Tourism because these lands are the origin of humankind - where the oldest hominid was found - the first place to ever produce coffee and they practice one of the rawest and most ancient ways of Christianity.
On most maps, Ethiopia is definitely part of Africa - but not to Ethiopians. Perhaps because of their unique culture and history, the people of this East African country see themselves as quite distinct from their neighbors. The truth is, though, that Ethiopia is different, and you’ll begin to notice this the moment you arrive: the language, writing, food, and calendar are all very different from anywhere else.
Visa Requirements
Citizens are required to obtain a visa to legally enter Ethiopia. Do not travel to Ethiopia unless you have an approved e-Visa. Travelers without a valid visa will be denied entry. The Ethiopian Immigration and Citizenship Service strictly enforces immigration regulations and expects all foreign nationals to be in the country under legal status.
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Officially, the tourist e-visa is only valid for those entering via Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa. My trip to Ethiopia was part of a 3-month journey through the Horn of Africa, traveling from Eritrea to Djibouti, Somaliland and then entering Ethiopia overland, so I intended to apply for it at the embassy in Djibouti. However, once I got there, they told me that they had run out of visa stickers and that they would not receive more after a couple of weeks at least.
Then, I tried my luck in Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland but, unfortunately they weren’t issuing visas anymore, so I was in a situation in which, according to the official information, the only thing I could do was booking a flight from Hargeisa to Addis Ababa, which kind of sucked. And it takes up to 3 days to process. Mine took less than 24 hours.
If you don’t have time to apply for an e-visa because your flight to Addis Ababa is less than 3 days ahead, you can also get a VOA at Bole International Airport. Otherwise, I don’t see any good reason why you should get a VOA instead of an e-visa. You can find Ethiopian embassies and consulates in many cities across Europe and North America.
Transportation
Ethiopia is a big country and as such, moving around can prove challenging. Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa is one of the most transited airports in the African continent. The main airline operating in the country is Ethiopian Airlines, a modern company that flies all over the world, including to and from the American continent. Moreover, there are many other international airlines that fly to Addis.
Remember that, if you fly in with Ethiopian Airlines, you get a 50% discount on all domestic flights. From Addis Ababa, you can always take a long distance bus to major destinations such as Arba Minch, Harar, Gonder or Meskel. Most buses are quite comfortable, some more than others; it doesn’t depend on the company but on the type of bus. Selam for example, good reputable company. Buses leave from Meskel Square and typically, they all leave at 4am, which is very annoying but given the long distances, it...
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An easier option would be taking the train that goes from Addis to Djibouti City, but it is a bit unreliable.
Border crossings:
- Sudan: There are regular minivans running from a Sudanese city named Qadarif to the border, and the border formalities are not very complicated. An easy border to cross from a bureaucratic point of view but difficult from a logistic point of view, as you need to cross the desert on a 4×4.
- Kenya: Crossing from the Kenyan town named Moyale should be a simple process.
- South Sudan: Not possible. You would have to go through the jungle and go across the most dangerous part of South Sudan, so forget it.
- Eritrea: This border is closed for foreigners and more often than not, also for locals. The only way of traveling between both countries is by flying in, from Asmara to Addis.
- Somaliland: The one I used. As you may know (or not), Somalia is divided into two regions, actual Somalia and Somaliland. You can travel to Ethiopia from Somaliland, using the border near the city of Harar. It was very easy and quick to cross.
Best Time to Visit
Ethiopia is a big country composed of several geographical regions, each having a different optimal season to visit, so it’s a bit difficult to guess the ideal time to come. The weather is ideal and, up to January, the landscapes are beautifully green still. As the weather is pleasant and most crowds are gone but the main downside is that it is already dry season, so the northern landscapes won’t be as pretty.
Therefore, in order to avoid the crowds and still get pretty landscapes, I believe that mid-September and October would be the best time to go backpacking in Ethiopia. However, bear in mind that the Danakil Depression, one of the country’s highlights, is also one of the hottest places on Earth, and September and October’s heat will be unbearable; it is advised to visit here from mid-November to February.
People and Culture
On the one hand, the cultural diversity is huge. Furthermore, contrary to any Western cliché, Ethiopia is also a land of natural contrasts, composed of fertile tropical forests in the south and vast flat deserts in the east, the Danakil Depression being home to lava pools and the hottest settlement in the world. In the north, Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile and Simien Mountains is one of the very few places in Africa with regular snowfall, the highest peak being at 4500m. And by the way, the scenery in Ethiopia is unconditionally hair-raising, a real blessing to your eyeballs.
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Key Cultural Facts:
- The Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia - It is a landlocked country in the Horn of Africa, one of the largest countries in the continent and with a population of 108,000,000.
- It’s a very poor country as per Western Standards - Nearly 50% of their total GDP is based on agriculture, mainly coffee. It is however, one of the most powerful and influential countries in Africa.
- It’s never been colonized - Italy tried to take it over twice, at the end of the 19th century and in 1936, but they were defeated so, along with Liberia, Ethiopia is the only African country which has never been colonized, one of the reasons why it is so unique and barely has any foreign influence.
- Ethiopia has close ties with Eritrea - Neighboring Eritrea is Ethiopia’s little brother, a country with practically the same culture. They have the same food, religion and share a big bunch of ethnic groups. The dominant ethnic group in Eritrea are the Tigrinya, which also turn out to be one of the most influential groups also in Ethiopia, inhabiting the Tigray region, the most touristic destination in Ethiopia. Moreover, they used to be the same country until 1991. This is Asmara, the capital of Eritrea.
- They are 6 hours ahead of anyone - The funniest fact about Ethiopia is that their time is different than ours, but they are 6 hours ahead. This means that if someone from Ethiopia tells you to meet at 18h, you need to be there at 12h. Well-educated people from Addis Ababa will talk to you in rest-of-the-world-time, so will those in the countryside who are used to dealing with tourists. But the rest of the country will not and, more often than not, if you ask them: are you talking in Ethiopian time, or faranji time? they will not know what you are talking about.
Ethiopian People:
- There are two types of Ethiopian - On the one hand, you meet lovely, kind-hearted people who are always willing to help, or simply have a chat with you. And on the other hand, there are the people who try to rip you off continuously.
- There are 80 distinct ethnic groups - The major groups being Oromo, Amhara, Tigray, Sidamo and Somali, which make up nearly 80% of the total population.
- The rest of the groups are minorities - And 45 of them live in a region named Southern Nations, Nationalities and People’s region, the vast majority being tribal people.
- But more than 80 languages are spoken - Or 70, depending on the source.
- And not everybody speaks Amharic - Especially in the tribal areas. It’s funny to think that, if certain tribal people from the south travel to Addis Ababa, they would feel more foreign and different than you do.
- People in white robes - If you see locals in traditional white robes is because they went to Church on that day.
- Muslims make up one third of the total population - Differently to what most travelers who have already been to Ethiopia believe, more than 30% of Ethiopians are Muslim, and many foreign people don’t notice them because they inhabit regions that don’t receive many tourists, Ethiopian Somalia for example.
Something I found extremely irritating (and most travelers do as well) is that, when you get into a new city or place, many people will start yelling: hey you, faranji, faranji, come here, come here! This also can happen with people you bump into in the street. In response, something very funny you can do is looking at them and say: hey you, habesha, habesha, come here, come here! Habesha means local, or Ethiopian, so you are basically telling them the same thing.
Food and Drink
I have a love and hate relationship with the food in Ethiopia. On the one hand, traditional food is healthy, mainly composed of stewed vegetables and a protein bread named injera. On the other hand, despite the unbelievable geographical and cultural diversity, there isn’t much food variety across the country.
Anyways, injera is the cornerstone of any Ethiopian meal, a flat bread made from a local grain named tef. Some travelers don’t like it at all.
Fasting days in Ethiopia
Ethiopians are very religious and besides the 40 days of Lent, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church also recognizes every Wednesday and Friday as fasting days, meaning that most restaurants will only serve vegetarian dishes.
This is lake fish wrapped in injera bread. Also very traditional but not as available as beyanet because this is meat-based, usually goat or sheep, hence more expensive, and many Ethiopians can’t afford to eat meat every day. Shiro is chickpea paste mixed with onions, garlic and bean flour. Energetic, healthy and delicious. This was my favorite dish, the Ethiopian hummus, I would say.
Kita fir fir is injera with spices and chilli and it’s typically eaten for breakfast. I didn’t like really like it because it’s 95% just injera. By the way, for breakfast, besides kita fir fir and its different varieties, ful is also very easy to find, which is small beans in tomato sauce and garlic.
In Addis Ababa, however, you can find good international food. Expensive as per Ethiopian standards, but good.
Traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony
Ethiopia is coffee’s birthplace and, today, it is a very important part of their economy and exports. Traditional style coffee is called buna and pretty much on any corner all around the country, you will see a lady preparing it in a clay pot named a jebena, and serving it in small cups.
Practical Information
Wi-Fi is really, really bad all over the country. Even when hotel owners try to sell you the beautiful idea that their hotel prices include Wi-Fi and breakfast, just assume that most likely, Wi-Fi won’t work and, if it does, it’s terribly slow. Something I remember is that Ethiopian bank notes are some of the dirtiest I have ever seen, to the extent that when I got back home and finally touched some clean ones, it was a real reverse cultural shock. Always have some hand sanitizer handy with you.
There is black market all over the country but in Addis Ababa you will get the best rate, especially near Meskel Square. In big cities, you can find ATMs, no problem, and they always accepted my foreign credit card.
Traveling in Ethiopia on a backpacking budget is cheap and below is a list of the price of the most typical things. Local shared taxi (Lalibela to Mekele): 600 birr (This will highly depend on your negotiations skills.
Safety and Security
I found this extremely frustrating and one of the worst things about traveling in Ethiopia. I have only been pickpocketed in two countries: in Mexico, and in Ethiopia. Actually, in Ethiopia it happened to me twice, in 2 different areas of Tigray region. On one occasion they stole my brand-new GoPro, and on the second time they took my wallet with my credit card in it. This can happen anywhere but in here chances are way higher, so be careful of your belongings.
By the way, in big cities, especially in Addis Ababa, never walk alone at night. The security measures were insane. Every X km, there was a police checkpoint in which everybody from the bus had to get off and the police would check every single bag, one by one. It was very annoying. Outside of Ethiopian Somalia, however, I never had or saw any issue.
I traveled in Ethiopia as a solo man, so I can’t really speak for women, but I’ll just give you a small summary of what some kick-ass female travelers told me. Most women said that Ethiopia was safe but the level of verbal harassment was insane, to the extent that some claim they’ll never go back to Ethiopia. Many local men believe Western girls are easy and you may have to deal with occasional sex offers and creepy compliments. In fact, I was once with a girl from London and witnessed how a very disgusting man would just stare at her and do some creepy movements with his tongue.
Despite being predominantly a Christian country, Ethiopia is a conservative, patriarchal society in which men tend to be sexist.
U.S. State Department Advice:
- Terrorism: Al-Qa’ida and its regional affiliate, Somalia-based al-Shabaab, maintain a presence throughout East Africa. In late 2020, Ethiopian security officials announced the arrest of al-Shabaab and ISIS members who were accused of planning attacks in Addis Ababa and other parts of Ethiopia. Terrorists are increasingly using less sophisticated methods of attack - including knives, firearms, and vehicles - to more effectively target crowds.
- Civil Unrest: Ethiopia has experienced sporadic and spontaneous civil unrest throughout the country, some of which has ended in violence. During such episodes, the Ethiopian government often curtails or limits mobile telecommunications, internet access, and social media. If this happens, you may be unable to contact family and friends or emergency services.
- Border with Kenya: There have been numerous incidents of inter-ethnic conflict reported near the border areas with Kenya, as well as attacks attributed to the Oromo Liberation Army (OLA or OLF-Shane).
- Border with South Sudan (Gambella Region): The security situation in the region is volatile. Sporadic inter-ethnic clashes are common along the western border area with South Sudan. Past tribal conflict between Anyuak, Nuer, and Highlanders resulted in numerous casualties.
- Somali Region (eastern Ethiopia): Al-Shabaab maintains a presence in Somali towns near the Ethiopian border, presenting risk of cross-border attacks and kidnapping. As with other border areas, landmines and criminal activity remain a concern.
- Afar: Violent crime, including the armed assault of foreigners, has occurred in the Danakil Depression in Afar. While recent reports may indicate the Danakil Depression area is safe for tourism, please note that tourism was previously targeted for attacks in 2007, 2012, and 2017.
- Amhara: As a result of the Tigray conflict, tensions continue to exist along the Amhara-Tigray regional border, with occasional clashes including gunfire. Ethnic violence has been reported. While attacks are mostly related to inter-ethnic disputes and foreigners have not been targeted, attacks can occur at any time with the risk of being caught in violence.
- Crime in Addis Ababa: Pickpocketing, purse snatching, theft from vehicles and other petty crimes are common in Addis Ababa. Theft of passports is common in Bole International Airport, including inside the airport terminal and during airport transfers. Thieves are active throughout the city at all times, particularly on Bole Road, in the Piazza, the Merkato, and other areas frequented by tourists and foreigners. Violent robberies have also occurred in this area, with victims stabbed or beaten.
- Photography: It is illegal to take pictures of government buildings, military installations, police/military personnel, and key infrastructure such as roads, bridges, dams, and airfields.
- LGB Travelers: Consensual same-sex sexual activity between adults is illegal and punishable by imprisonment under the law. There have been periodic detentions and interrogations of some LGB persons, and alleged physical abuse.
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