Eshowe: A Journey Through History and Zulu Culture in South Africa

Nov 06, 2025 0

Eshowe, the oldest town of British settlement in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, serves as an excellent base for exploring the rich Zulu culture. The town's name is said to be inspired by the sound of wind blowing through the more than 4 km2 of the indigenous Dlinza Forest, the most important and striking feature of the town.

A Historical Overview

Eshowe is historically significant as the site of a siege that lasted from Jan. 22 to April 3 in 1879 during the Anglo-Zulu War. A mission station was established at Eshowe in 1861 once permission had been obtained from the Zulu King Cetshwayo by Norwegian missionary, the Reverend Ommund Oftebro. During the Anglo-Zulu War of 1879, Colonel Charles Pearson led the coastal column to Eshowe. British forces occupied the mission, but the fort was besieged by Zulu forces for 10 weeks.

After the war Eshowe was established as the capital of Zululand and the home of the British resident in Zululand, Melmoth Osborne. In 1947 the British Royal Family (King George VI, Queen Elizabeth, Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret) visited and were welcomed in Eshowe by King Cyprian. Eshowe served as the seat of the first Black Diocesan Bishops in South Africa, of the Anglican and Roman Catholic Church.

Location and Climate

Eshowe is inland and set on an elevation, and is cooler than Durban in summer. During the wet season, it is often misty, and is reputed to have the third highest rainfall in South Africa.

Getting There

To reach Eshowe by car:

Drive up the N2 from Durban.
Turn left at the Dokodweni Plaza onto Route 66.
Carry on straight for roughly 30 km, passing turn-offs to Gingindlovu and Mtunzini.
There are two turn-offs to Eshowe, one at the bottom of a large hill (best to take if headed to George hotel) and the second is at the top of the large hill, taken by turning left at the first traffic light encountered.

Minibus taxis leave/arrive at the main taxi rank in Eshowe:

To Durban - Cost: R70
To Empangeni - Cost: R30
To Melmoth - Cost: R20

Greyhound runs bus service to Melmoth, 48.3 km from Eshowe. Provincial public buses (2 a day, mornings) also leave from the taxi rank daily.

Getting Around

It is possible to walk from end to end in the Town Centre (about 20 minutes at a medium pace). The entrance to the boardwalk and visitor centre is a further 25 minute walk away from the Pick n' Pay centre. A car may be easier, but is not essential if you have time on your hands. Eshowe Taxi Service, 116 Main Street, ☏ +27 83 431-5556 (7AM-7PM).

Things to See and Do

Cultural Experiences

The George Hotel & Fort, Eshowe, Zululand, South Africa

Walk up the one-street town centre: Take in the feel of a market town catering to rural Zulus.
Zulu Village Tours and Events: The George Hotel organizes guided tours of the Zulu villages and arranges attendance at Zulu weddings, Sangoma healing ceremonies, and coming of age ceremonies.
Shakaland: Drive on the R66 out toward Melmoth for about 20 minutes, signposted. Built as the set of a movie depicting the life of Shaka, a local entrepreneur converted it to a hotel, now owned and operated by the Protea Hotels Group.

Nature and Outdoor Activities

Dlinza Forest: Off Kangela Street, signposted; or, if staying at the George Hotel, ask for a shortcut in walking distance from the hotel, ☏ +27 35 474-4029. A 250-hectare indigenous coastal scarp forest, unique in that it borders and is part of a town. Walk along a network of trails and spot rare bird species, butterflies and small mammals including the blue duiker and bush pig. A Visitor Centre offers curios, information displays and refreshments. Sep 1 to Apr 30: 6AM-5PM; May 1 to Aug 31: 7AM-5PM. Walk 125 m along a wooden walkway 10m high in the forest canopy then climb to the 20-m-high observation platform for panoramic views. The best time to come is in the early morning, where you will be greeted by a cacophony of birdsong.
Fishing: Some farmers may let you fish on their private farms, or alternatively you can try your luck at one of the public dams. It is best to enquire with locals.
Eshowe Hills Golf Course.
Zululand Bike Adventures: Havelock St, ☏ +27 82 851 3580. Daily 9AM-5PM.
Siyaya Coastal Park: 42 km of unspoilt coastline stretching between Amatikulu Nature Reserve and Umlalazi Nature Reserve.

Historical Sites

Fort Nongqayi Museum Village Shop: 7 Nongqai St, ☏ +27 35 474 5274. The fort was used by local military and police units. Beside it is a church established by a Norwegian missionary. In addition to the historic buildings are a museum of Zulu crafts, and a conference center and craft shops.

Shopping and Art

Eshowe Centre: 25 Osbourne Rd (opposite Edwards Pharmacy), a row of stalls at the rear of the building.
Baobab Art Gallery: The end of Hullett Drive, off Kangela St. (walk 3 minutes up Kangela St. from the Pick n' Pay centre, and take the second road right; immediately look for a blue sign hung above a house fence), ☏ +27 72 673-8710. Showcasing local Eshowe artists, artist Janine sells ceramics, mosaics, sculptures, cards, mobiles and paintings.

Food and Drink

Memory Lane Coffee Shop: In the Pick n' Pay shopping centre offers meals and an environment frequented by (often retired) locals, where you may get a chance to learn more about the town if you ask nicely enough. Ask to see the coffee shop's copy of an old Zululand Times magazine which provides insight into and experiences from the past.
Pop-in Cafe: Up the hill from Super-Spar walking toward town, offers a selection of popular South African working-man meals, such as samp and beans, curry dishes, Vetkoek and 'Russians'.
To sample the fare enjoyed by locals, head to either of two town centre butcheries, that offer an offstreet barbeque.

Accommodation

The George Hotel & Zululand Backpackers: 36 Main Street, ☏ +27 35 474-4919. Favourite among backpackers and those looking for tours to Zululand.
Birds of Paradise B&B: 49 Ulundi Street. Luxury accommodation with tennis court, swimming pool, DSTV, barbeque facilities.
Eshowe Loeries B&B: 6 bedrooms with swimming pool and sauna in private courtyard. Traditional home cooking.
The Chase: (Off R66), ☏ +27 35 474-5491. Spectacular views.

Eshowe is not just a destination; it's an experience that immerses you in the heart of Zulu culture and the beauty of KwaZulu-Natal.

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