African beads are more than just decorative ornaments; they are vibrant symbols of Africa's rich cultural heritage, craftsmanship, and history. Each bead tells a story, carrying with it centuries of tradition, artistry, and meaning.
Assortment of colorful African beads
Origins and Early Use
No-one quite knows when metalsmithing was first introduced to Africa. However, we do know it was adopted by tribes along the Southern and Eastern Capes for purposes other than tools and weapons.
Metal Beads as Currency
African Metal Beads, in their various forms, have been used for centuries as currency across the continent. Copper deposits discovered in West Africa made African Metal Beads far more accessible from the 18th Century, leading to their being adopted into the rites, beliefs and traditional attire of many cultures.
Brass Beads: A Later Introduction
Brass, on the other hand, was a rare commodity in Africa until the 20th Century. However, that hasn't stopped many tribes from actively seeking out brass scrap for bead-making.
Read also: Learn about Kalk Bay, South Africa
Diverse Styles and Techniques
Diverse and beautiful, African Metal Beads run the gamut of shapes and styles. Ghana is predominantly known for its glass bead production. However, glass isn't the only material being recycled for the purpose of producing beads.
Ghanaian Brass Beads
From boilers and radiator pipes to old padlocks and door knobs, the resourceful Ashante utilize an abundance of industrial and household objects to produce African Metal Beads.
Filigree Designs
Filigree designs are achieved by creating models from beeswax, which are then encased in a crucible with a hole at the top. As molten brass is poured into the crucible, it adheres to the wax, taking on the structure of the model as it sets. Since beeswax is both pliable and easy to manipulate, all manner of designs are possible, including leaves, evil eyes, and large whorls.
Baule Brass Beads
Baule Brass Beads are produced using a similar “lost wax” technique, however tend to be far simpler in design, and flat with an enclosed tube running through the center.
Lost Wax Casting
Read also: Unveiling the Rich History of African Brass Bangles
Ethiopian Metal Beads
A nomadic people originating from the Sahara, the Tuareg are widely credited with the introduction of metalsmithing to Ethiopia. And it is their influence which has spawned the sheer diversity of Ethiopian Metal Beads made today. The vast majority of Ethiopian Metal Beads are produced from white metals, such as tin, antimony, and nickel.
Pliable and easy to manipulate, tin is often mixed with zinc to produce wound Ethiopian Heishi Beads and tube beads. Ethiopian Prayer Beads are highly sought after due to their colorful history. Introduced to Africa sometime around the 15th Century, they played a pivotal role in the conversion of natives to Christianity, and continue to be used as a form of Rosary today. Ironically, Ethiopian Prayer Beads are also very similar to those used in the Islamic faith during periods of fasting, prayer and repentance.
Lost Wax Casting Process
Kenyan Metal Beads
Although rather better known for its beautiful natural beads, Kenya too produces a limited number of African Metal Beads using upcycled metal scrap. The vast majority are are produced by the Borana Oromo people of Northern Kenya; renowned tinsmiths who have a time-honored history of transforming old pots and pans into beads for personal adornment. Aesthetically, Kenya Heishi Metal Beads are not dissimilar to those from Ethiopia.
Other Types of African Beads
African beads come in various forms, each with its unique history and cultural significance.
Kiffa Beads
Kiffa beads (sometimes called "saliva beads") are recycled-glass beads that reportedly have been made in the African country of Mauritania for 1,000 years! Mauritanian women are the typical creators of these festive ornaments. An intricately crafted form of recycled glass beads, these kiffas are true treasures! First, the beadmaker grinds available glass objects into a fine powder. Then, she creates a core shape by using saliva to mold glass powder around a stick (the stick creates the bead hole). Intricate, colored designs are then added to the surface of the core shape, again using saliva to hold the powdered glass together. Finally, the beads are placed on a potsherd, covered and fired on a bed of charcoal. Because Kiffa beads achieve such intricate designs using very basic tools and materials, they have been hailed as an example of the highest level of beadmaking skill and ingenuity.
Read also: Craftsmanship of Moroccan Brass Trays
Millefiori Beads
Millefiori beads: Mosaic glasswork techniques have been used for centuries to create intricate glass beads, pendants and paperweights. One of the most popular mosaic varieties is called "thousand (mille) flowers (fiori)" -- in fact, many people now use the terms "mosaic" and "millefiori" interchangeably. Millefiori glass designs are created by making patterned canes from glass rods, slicing the resultant canes to reveal the patterned cross-section, and arranging these slices into mosaic patterns. Some have multicolored eyes.
Krobo and Powder Glass Beads
The technique of making powder glass and other recycled-glass beads by hand has been used in Africa for centuries. First, molds are created out of clay. Glass is chosen by color and crushed by hand into a material called the "fritt." The molds are often dipped in water and treated with kaolin clay to prevent sticking. A cassava stalk is often placed in the center of each mold and the rest of the mold is filled in with the "fritt." When fired, the stalks burn away leaving a hole in each bead. The molds are baked in a kiln hot enough to make the glass fuse together. From experience the beadmakers know how long to fire the molds, and can judge the temperature by the color of the flame. After firing the molds are removed. The beadmaker uses an awl in one hand while moving the mold with the other hand, spinning the gather of glass around to shape it. They then flip it over to shape the other side. Shaping and polishing is also done on a stone using sand and water. Beads are sometimes oiled to bring out their natural shine. Finally, it's off to the market.
Corner-Cut Blues (aka "Russian Blues")
These beautiful blue beads cause a lot of debate on the internet. They are faceted glass beads made in the early 1800's in Europe (Venice and possibly also Bohemia, which is now part of the Czech Republish), and then traded to either Africa or North America. Many of these were made in the Dutch Netherlands during the 1600's to 1800's.
Masai Glass Spacers and Goomba Beads
These are white to off-white glass or porcelain beads. The larger beads are usually in a tile-bead shape, and the smaller beads are often in a more-rounded shape like a large seed bead. In the past, most of these white and off-white beads were Masai spacers from Kenya, but more recently, they've been coming to us from Ghana-based traders. Masai glass spacer beads are collected in Kenya or Tanzania (on the East coast of Africa). When they are collected in or near Nigeria (on the West coast of Africa) instead, they are called Gumba, Goomba or Goombah beads. These beads were generally made in Europe and traded to Africa in the early 1900's. Depending on where they ended up, they are called either Masai spacers, or Goomba beads. They are wonderful, slightly neutral, earthly-looking beads that are great accents and spacers for earrings, necklaces and bracelets.
Recycled-Glass African Beads
Recycled glass beads, like their name implies, are made of any type of locally-sourced glass that can be easily melted and turned into glass beads. Multicolored recycled glass beads are sometimes called "end of day" beads, as they are simply made from the remaining colors still in the workspace when it's time to clean up at the end of the day. Whatever their source, we have a soft spot for just about anything that has a recycled content.
White Heart Trade Beads
The name "white heart" beads can be confusing since these beads are neither white nor heart shaped. The name comes from the white centers of these glass beads, which add an internal glow to the colored glass surrounding them. Another name for these beads is "Cornaline d' Allepo," which translates to "Carnelian of Allepo" or "Agate of Allepo." People in inter-tropical and temperate regions are said to have traditionally worn white heart beads (as well as carnelian and other agates) as a talisman to ward off disease.
Historical Context and Significance
The history of beads in African is quite incredible, with various artifacts and locations serving as evidence of a rich history of African beads. Burial sites such as the Valley of The Kings have allowed us to uncover a significant wealth of jewelry and decorative artifacts which were made from glass. The methods used within this production are not dissimilar to those practiced today for Recycled Glass Bead production; where ground particles are compacted prior to firing.
From the 14th Century, explorers began landing upon the shores of South Africa bringing with them colorful glass beads to trade for the safe passage through regions - and eventually for the riches of this foreign land which included palm oil, fur and spices. The production of Africa's currency began to increase within Venice during the 1500's. Striped Chevrons were the most common product of this era, although Millefiori Beads found particular favor with African tribal chiefs during the close of the century. The Millefiori boom would last a further 400 years.
Venetian Trade Beads were often referred to by their pseudonym “slave beads” due to the high value they realized in exchange for slaves.
Symbolism and Uses of African Beads
African beads serve various purposes beyond their aesthetic appeal. They are often used to convey messages, represent social status, and celebrate milestones.
For example, in some African communities, women adorned themselves with waist beads during their first menstruation as a rite of passage into womanhood. The beads symbolize a young lady’s fertility, developing body, and sexuality. Other cultures adorned chiefs and their wives with beads to indicate their wealth and status.
Zulu Beadwork
The most complex use of beads anywhere in Africa must be the rituals of courtship and marriage among the Zulu. Zulu beadwork is actually a language system where colors, patterns and items of apparel convey specific meanings. Tiny seed beads are woven into messages that regulate behavior between the sexes. Zulu men wear beads to show commitment to women they intend to marry. Beads worn by females immediately convey status: married, unmarried, engaged, uncommitted, has children, has unmarried sisters, etc. Additional colors and patterns even pinpoint the region she comes from. With these signals a man in a crowd can easily pick out females that he may approach without fear of being rejected or embarrassed.
Ndebele Beadwork
The Ndebele are another South African culture devoted to beads. As with the Zulu, a wide variety of garments mark the transitions in a woman's life. Upon marrying, an Ndebele woman receives a bridal apron containing five beaded panels. She adds more bead embroidery, incorporating motifs that depict her home and things dear to her.
Maasai Beadwork
The Maasai tribe are naturally known for their traditional homemade beadwork. While the Maasai have been crafting jewelry for hundreds of years, they didn’t start using the tiny beads we’re now familiar with until the 19th century. Before, jewelry was made of local materials sourced from nature, including twigs, horn, and bone. Each color has a specific meaning, usually associated with the cattle who sustain and nourish the Maasai.
| Color | Symbolism |
|---|---|
| Blue | Sustenance, energy, and the bright blue sky which provides water for the people and their cattle |
| Red | Bravery and strength, but also the blood of the cattle which are slaughtered for sustenance and during celebrations |
| Orange | Warmth, friendship, and hospitality |
| Yellow | Fertility, health, and growth |
Maasai Beadwork
Yoruba Waist Beads
The Yorubas in West Africa are known to have the most varied and peculiar reasons for using waist beads. Yoruba waist beads are also called Ileke, Jigida, and Lagidigba. They are worn mainly by females, from the littlest to the oldest.
