African wax prints, Dutch wax prints, or Ankara, are a common and vibrant type of material for clothing in West Africa. These industrially produced, colorful cotton cloths with batik-inspired printing are known for having the same color intensity on both sides. The term "Ankara" originates from the Hausa name for Accra, the capital of Ghana. Typically, these fabrics are sold in lengths of 12 yards (11 m) as a "full piece" or 6 yards (5.5 m) as a "half piece," with colors chosen to match local preferences. Wax prints serve as a form of nonverbal communication among African women, carrying their messages into the world. Some prints are even named after personalities, cities, buildings, sayings, or occasions. To protect the design and attest to the fabric's quality, the producer, product name, and registration number are printed on the selvage. Wax fabrics are capital goods for African women, and Ghana alone consumes about 130 million yards (120 million meters) of textiles annually.
African prints play a central role in Afrocentric fashion, with compelling designs that hold deeper stories. These bold and beautiful designs, often referred to as “ethnic prints” or “tribal prints,” give women’s clothing a decidedly Afrocentric vibe. Just as there are multiple African cultures, there are multiple types of African prints, each with its own history and significance.
The History and Origins of African Fabric Prints
The process to make wax print is originally influenced by batik, an Indonesian (Javanese) method of dyeing cloth by using wax-resist techniques. For batik, wax is melted and then patterned across the blank cloth. From there, the cloth is soaked in dye, which is prevented from covering the entire cloth by the wax. During the Dutch colonization of Indonesia, Dutch merchants and administrators became familiar with the batik technique. Thanks to this contact, the owners of textile factories in the Netherlands, such as Jean Baptiste Theodore Prévinaire and Pieter Fentener van Vlissingen, received examples of batik textiles by the 1850s if not before, and started developing machine printing processes which could imitate batik. Prévinaire's attempt, part of a broader movement of industrial textile innovation in Haarlem, was the most successful.
Unfortunately for the Dutch, these imitation wax-resist fabrics did not successfully penetrate the batik market. Starting in the 1880s, they did, however, experience a strong reception in West Africa when Dutch and Scottish trading vessels began introducing the fabrics in those ports. Initial demand may have been driven by the taste for batik developed by the Belanda Hitam, West Africans recruited between 1831 and 1872 from the Dutch Gold Coast to serve in the Dutch colonializing army in Indonesia. The Dutch wax prints quickly integrated themselves into African apparel, sometimes under names such as "Veritable Dutch Hollandais", and "Wax Hollandais".
Women used the fabrics as a method of communication and expression, with certain patterns being used as a shared language, with widely understood meanings. Many patterns began receiving catchy names. Over time, the prints became more African-inspired, and African-owned by the mid-20th century. Before the 1960s most of the African wax fabric sold in West and Central Africa was manufactured in Europe. The costly produced wax fabrics are increasingly imitated by alternative ways of manufacturing.
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Prévinaire's method for the production of imitation batik cloth proceeds as follows. A block-printing machine applies resin to both sides of the fabric. It is then submerged into the dye, in order to allow the dye to be repelled by the resin covered parts of the fabric. This process is repeated, to build up a colored design on the fabric. Multiple wooden stamp blocks are needed for each color within the design. Sometimes the resin on the cloth can be crinkled in order to form cracks or lines that are known as "crackles". After a merger in 1875, the company founded by Prévinaire became Haarlemsche Katoenmaatschappij (Haarlem Cotton Company).
The so-called "fancy fabrics" are produced in a printing procedure. Fancy fabrics in general are cheap, industrially produced imitations of the wax prints and are based on industry print. Fancy fabrics are also called imiwax, Java print, roller print, le fancy or le légos. These fabrics are produced for mass consumption and stand for ephemerality and caducity. Fancy Fabrics are more intense and rich in colours than wax prints and are printed on only one side. As for wax prints, producer, product name and registration number of the design are printed on the selvage. Even the fancy fabrics vary with a certain fashion. The production of these imitation wax-print fabrics, allow those who cannot afford the European imported wax prints to be able to purchase them.
Different Types of African Fabric Prints
Different types of African fabrics have different names depending on their region of origin. The most popular types include kente cloth, mudcloth, and batik. African prints are often made from these different types of African fabric. They are typically brightly colored and feature geometric patterns and have become increasingly popular in the fashion industry over the past few years.
There are many different types of Ankara fabrics, each with a unique history and style, from kente cloth to Ankara prints. Let's delve into 11 different African fabrics you should know:
1. Ankara (Wax Prints or Batik)
If you love particularly bright, vivid colors and spectacular designs, you’re probably drawn to Ankara print clothing. Ankara fabrics are often used in African clothing and are characterized by their brightly colored patterns and bold designs. Typically made from cotton or wax-coated cotton, Ankara fabrics often feature traditional African motifs, such as animals, nature scenes, or geometric patterns.
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This technique of wax-resist dying actually didn’t originate in Africa. West African mercenaries working in Indonesia in the mid-19th century brought the technique back with them, then took it to another level with bright African colors and traditional motifs. In authentic wax printing, the wax is melted and meticulously applied to the cloth by hand, which is then dyed in a vivid hue. This wax-and-soak process is repeated multiple times with various colors, creating intricate multi-colored patterns. Different cultures around the world developed their own variations of wax printing.
Wax print patterns include florals, animal motifs, geometrics - you name it. In Afrocentric fashion circles, Ankara prints are frequently used to create caftans, free-flowing dresses, and more.
2. Kente Cloth
Kente cloth is a handwoven fabric from the Ghana province in Africa. Typically made from strips of cotton or silk, the name “Kente” comes from the Akan language and means “basket.” Traditionally associated with royalty, Kente cloth is often worn by kings and other members of the African aristocracy.
Kente cloth patterns are characterized by a bright mix of colors and geometric shapes, interwoven in contrasting bands or blocks. The pattern is based on traditional kente cloth, it is a handwoven silk and cotton fabric that originated in 17th-century South Ghana. According to Ashanti legend, kente cloth was created by two hunters who came across a giant spider spinning a magnificent web. They were so awestruck by its beauty, they decided to recreate their own version-and thus kente cloth was born.
Making authentic kente cloth is labor intensive. First, 4″ strips of fabric are woven on a slim wooden loom, in colorful stripes, shapes, and textures. Then, multiple strips are sewn together in intricate patterns to create the elaborate woven cloth. Today, kente cloth prints are a popular component of women’s Afrocentric fashion. You often see kente cloth patterns used as trim on dresses, tunics and pants-say, to accent hems, sleeves and necklines-and to make stunning headwraps and scarves.
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3. Ukara-Ekpe
Ukara-Ekpe is a sign of respect and was worn only by titled men and older women in the African tribes. Dyed in blue, green, or red, each color symbolizes different emotions and life stages. Male Nsibidi artists created the symbols on the fabric, which included moons, harvests, feathers, geometric patterns, metal rods, and masks.
The origin of this fabric is Abakaliki, Ebonyi state, around the Cross River of southeastern Nigeria. Ekpe society was the first tribe to develop this design, and archaeologists have found traces of this fabric even in southwestern Cameroon.
4. Adire
Adire is a Yoruba word that means “tie and dye.” This traditional textile printing technique is believed to have originated in the Dogon kingdom of Mali in West Africa. Today, Adire fabrics are handwoven by Yoruba women in southwestern Nigeria.
There are two main types of Adire fabric: resist-dyed and direct dyed. Resist-dyed Adire is created by tying sections of the fabric with string or other materials to create a resist. The fabric is then dipped in indigo dye, which only penetrates the un-stretched sections of the fabric. Direct dyed Adire is created by directly painting or printing Indigo dye onto the fabric. This results in a bolder, more graphic design.
Adire fabrics are traditionally made from handspun cotton cloth, but nowadays, you can find them made from various fabrics like silk, wool, and synthetic materials. These beautiful fabrics are often used for making African cloth types and other items like home decor items and bags.
The dying art of Adire was revived by Nigerian artisans like Nike Davies-Okundaye, Amaka Osakwe, and Duro Olowu in the 1990s. Since then, it has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in Nigeria and internationally.
5. Isi-Agu (aka Angelina Prints)
The Isi-Agu is a rich fabric traditionally made from velvet or cotton material and is worn by the Igbo people of eastern Nigeria. It is used to create pullover shirts that may be long or short-sleeved. Traditionally, the Isi-Agu was worn by men when they became chiefs of their respective tribes. This robe was worn along with a red fez hat to show the superiority of the chieftain. It was also worn along with an Igbo leopard cap. To show the superiority of the wearer, this robe was fitted with gold buttons and a gold chain.
You’re undoubtedly familiar with the dashiki-a long, loose shirt featuring a colorful design along its V-neck, sleeves, and hem. during the Civil Rights movement, and it’s been associated with black pride and unity ever since. These days, dashiki prints are found on much more than men’s shirts. You can find variations of the classic dashiki design on modern caftans, dresses, tunics, and women’s pantsuits.
While some dashiki prints are very colorful, others are more muted. So, if you’re new to the world of wearing African prints, dashiki prints might be a great place to get your feet wet.
6. Bogolan (Mudcloth)
Bogolan is a handwoven African fabric traditionally made in Mali from cotton and dyed with natural dyes. The cloth is often printed with geometric patterns or images that have cultural significance. The word bogolan comes from the Bambara language of Mali and means “mud cloth.” The fabric is also sometimes called bògòlanfini or “mud textile.”
Yes, in the beginning, mudcloth was made using real mud - riverbed mud that was fermented in clay jars for up to a year, to be exact. Today, we associate mudcloth prints with bold geometric designs executed in black, and set on a white or solid-colored background. But the original mud cloth was white with brown patterns, the color left behind by the mud’s pigment.
Bogolan is made by hand from start to finish. First, the cotton is handwoven into cloth. Then, natural dyes are used to color the fabric. The most common colors are brown, black, and white, but other colors can also be used. After the fabric is dyed, it is often printed with patterns or images using a stenciling technique. Mudcloth was originated by Mali’s Bamana culture, back in the 12th century. Traditionally, men would weave strips of fabric on narrow looms, and once the strips were stitched together into lengths of cloth, women would dye and paint the fabric.
They would paint intriguing combinations of lines, circles, and other shapes, repeating their pattern over the entire cloth. Each pattern would tell a story, but only to those who understood the meaning of the symbols. Mud cloth was originally a show of status, and many African American women still wear mud cloth prints with pride. You’ll find these sophisticated patterns (usually in black and white) on Afrocentric dresses, tops, pantsuits, and more.
7. Barkcloth
Made from the trees of the Moraceae family, this type of fabric is the pride of tribes in Uganda. The barks of trees like Artocarpus altilis, Broussonetia papyrifera, and Ficus natalensis are used to create this type of textile. Barkcloth is known for its durability and versatility and can be used for everything from clothing to home decor.
8. Shweshwe
Shweshwe is a printed and dyed cotton fabric that is very popular across the globe. It got its name due to its connection with Lesotho’s King Moshoeshoe I. The fabric is known for its complex geometric patterns. Many modern fashion houses use shweshwe in their creations due to its popularity. Shweshwe is a brightly colored fabric that is often used for traditional clothing. It is also famous for making quilts, tablecloths, and other items.
9. Kikoy
Kikoy is a type of African fabric that is handcrafted from cotton yarn. It is used to make different types of clothing such as dresses, shirts, skirts, and wraparounds. It is also used to make home decorations such as table cloths, bedspreads, and scarves. Kikoy is a popular African fabric because it is durable and easy to care for. It is also beautiful and comes in a variety of colors and patterns.
10. Kanga
Kanga is a type of East African fabric known for the words of wisdom, love, blessings, and friendship printed on them. Many fashion houses allow customers to personalize their dress with the words they would like to get printed. This is similar to Kitenge; however, it is much lighter as the threads are thinner. Swahili expressions, too, are woven into the Kanga African prints.
11. Aso Oke
Aso Oke is a traditional Nigerian fabric often used for special occasions like weddings. It is usually made from cotton or wool and is available in various colors and patterns. Men typically wear Aso Oke, but women can also wear it. Aso Oke is an African fabric typically used for making special clothing items such as Agbada, fila, Iro, and Buba.
Animal Prints in Afrocentric Fashion
While not strictly an African print, animal print clothing is frequently seen in Afrocentric fashion. It’s never out of fashion. Often, it was believed that wearing the skin of a certain animal would transfer that animal’s power to the wearer. Today, however, animal prints are more about creating a sense of fun. They’re exotic and sexy, requiring a bit of confidence to wear.
The Cultural Significance of African Fabric Prints
African pattern materials are more than just fabrics-they are vibrant storytellers, woven with centuries of culture, symbolism, and artistry. Across the continent, textiles like Kente, Ankara, and Mudcloth serve as visual languages, communicating everything from social status to personal milestones. These patterns and colors aren’t random; they’re a language, a way to communicate what words sometimes cannot.
Colors in African fabrics are never accidental. In Kente cloth, for example, blue stands for harmony and love, while red signals spiritual challenges or death. Historically, these patterns allowed people to discuss topics that were off-limits in conversation. African textiles don’t just tell stories-they mark life’s most important chapters.
In Mali, Bogolan (mudcloth) isn’t just stylish-it’s believed to offer protection. Hunters wore it for ritual safety, and women donned it after childbirth to ward off evil spirits. Kente cloth, with its dazzling colors and intricate patterns, is the fabric of royalty in Ghana. At coronations, weddings, and funerals, the choice of Kente signals not just wealth, but lineage and spiritual authority. In Ghanaian tradition, specific cloths are chosen for marriage ceremonies, each with a name and meaning. For funerals, black and white prints are common, with the ratio of colors sometimes reflecting the age or status of the deceased.
There are even rules about who can wear what-and when. Wearing the same cloth as a chief at a public event? Traditionally, you’d excuse yourself out of respect. These customs aren’t relics-they’re alive and evolving. Modern designers remix traditional patterns for new contexts, but the fabrics still anchor communities to their histories.
The truth about "African" wax prints
The Global Impact of African Fabric Prints
Dutch wax cloth with its myriad of colours and designs has found widespread aesthetic appeal across the world. It has been the fabric of choice for fashion houses like Stella Jean, Valentino, Marc Jacobs, and Givenchy, and for stellar performers such as Beyonce Knowles-Cater, Rhianna, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Keke Palmer, who look to celebrate as well as align themselves with the styles of the African diaspora.
Artists like Beyoncé, Rihanna, Jay-Z, Kanye West, Nicki Minaj, Drake, and others have introduced the world to vibrant African culture. To tap into the millennial and gen Z customers, you must take inspiration from these pop stars and include African prints into your collection. As a fashion designer, you should know more about these prints and their history to celebrate them.
Caring for African Fabric Prints
African pattern materials are built to last-but only if you show them a little love. With the right care, those vibrant colors and crisp patterns can stay dazzling for years. Here are some tips for caring for your African fabric prints:
- Gentle Handwashing: Handwashing in cold water is the safest bet, as hot water can cause colors to bleed or fade.
- Color Preservation: To lock in those bold hues, some recommend adding a dash of salt or white vinegar to the rinse.
- Machine Washing: If you must use a machine, choose a gentle cycle with cold water. Turn fabrics inside out and, if possible, place them in a laundry bag for extra protection.
- Stain Removal: Spot clean stains as soon as possible.
- Drying: Air drying is a must. Lay fabrics flat on a clean towel, reshape as needed, and keep them out of direct sunlight to prevent fading.
- Storage: Store your fabrics flat and folded in breathable cotton or fabric bags. Avoid plastic, which can trap moisture and cause mildew.
- Ironing: To restore the crispness of wax prints, use an ironing sheet and start with a low temperature, increasing as needed.
- Longevity Tips: Rotate how you fold and stack your fabrics to avoid permanent creases.
African textiles are more than just materials-they’re stories, traditions, and art you can wear, display, and cherish.
