This article delves into the unique characteristics of stretch African print fabric, exploring its composition, texture, and diverse applications. Unlike traditional Ankara prints, which are often stiff and waxed, stretch African print fabric offers a flowy and comfortable alternative, perfect for various clothing items and projects. We’ll also cover tips for sewing with Ankara fabric, its history, and where to purchase it.
What is Ankara Fabric?
Ankara, also known as African wax print or Dutch wax print, is a machine-manufactured cloth designed to mimic the effect of wax resist. This process involves drawing a design on paper or cloth with crayon or hot wax and then painting over it or dyeing it. Once dry, the wax is ironed off, revealing the pattern.
It is cotton, a natural fibre which makes it breathable and not sweaty or sticky next to the skin.
It’s a great fabric for beginners. Imagine something between a cotton poplin and quilting-weight cotton often with the softness of a cotton lawn. It’s strong and can withstand the heavy use of a seam ripper! It is stable so stays put when cutting and sewing and it doesn’t stretch out of shape.
Composition and Texture
Stretch African print fabric typically consists of:
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- Material: 97% Cotton, 3% Spandex
- Print: Single-sided
- Width: ~58"
- Texture: Stretchy, Good Drape, Lightweight, Very Soft, Muted Sheen
- Main colors: Black, White
This blend provides a comfortable and flattering fit, highlighting curves while ensuring all-day wearability. The fabric is ideal for making unique clothing items and many other projects.
The Onna African Print Stretch Clothing Collection
The "Onna" collection, named after the Yoruba word for "it stretches," addresses the fit issues commonly encountered with traditional Ankara fabric. As most of us familiar with Ankara know, this material is made with 100% cotton and has little to no stretch. This innovative collection uses a knit fabric with the right stretch and thickness to retain the vibrant colors of Ankara while offering a comfortable and form-fitting experience.
The collection gives women a chance to make memorable fashion statements while proudly representing their roots!
Care Instructions
To maintain the quality and vibrancy of stretch African print fabric, follow these care instructions:
- Dry clean recommended or wash in water 40 Celsius (104 F) or cooler.
- Do NOT tumble dry, instead dry flat.
- Iron on low heat.
A Brief History of Ankara
During the time of the Dutch colonization of Indonesia, merchants and textile manufacturers saw this craft of batik and the wonderful cloth created by the Indonesians and sought to manufacture it so it could be mass-produced cheaply. However, the fabric that the Dutch traders produced was not welcomed by the European market and instead found its way to Ghana and then other African countries and was loved. Much of the fabric today is still produced in the Netherlands but there are a few manufacturers within the continent of Africa.
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As I said earlier, the cloth was often used for celebrations or for your “Sunday Best” in the African community. But these days you will find people wearing Ankara regularly and every day as well as for formal or celebratory occasions. And now you will find that it’s not just people of African heritage wearing this fabric, it has been embraced by all sorts of people and I’m here for it. I often get asked if it is cultural appropriation for non-Africans to wear Ankara and I would say a firm “no”. Remember, the origin of the fabric is Asian, the mass producers were European and the people who warmly embraced it were Africans. If anything, it is a global fabric, it is not sacred to any one people group. I love to see all sorts of people wearing wax print, often supporting black-owned businesses and showing appreciation for a fabric much loved by people like me.
Where to Buy Ankara Fabric
The easiest way to buy Ankara fabric is online. I am fortunate to live in an area of London close to several Ankara retailers. Ridley Road Market, Dalston (London) is my nearest and there are plenty of stalls packed with wax print. Do check out the markets near you. Another great place to shop Ankara is Middlesex Street, close to Liverpool Street Station. A length of road and a market of high-end and more affordable wax print, I’ll warn you now, you will end up with more than you intended!
After watching this video, you will not throw away the leftover fabric / Sewing tips and tricks
Tips for Sewing with Ankara Fabric
Here are some essential tips for sewing with Ankara or African wax print:
- Prepare to buy more than you need: It is more common to find wax print fabric sold as a 6yd bundle rather than by the metre. Be excited about the number of projects you could squeeze out of it rather than be daunted by the excess!
- Look for 100% cotton: There is a lot of polyester/cotton mix Ankara, usually but not always sold cheaper than 100% cotton. My preference is for the pure cotton variety so it’s breathable. Always ask the composition, because the labels won’t necessarily tell you.
- Hunt around for styles you love: I truly believe that there is a print and colour for everyone in Ankara. If you like a fun, quirky, jolly prints you’re in luck. If you search around, you’ll find little round spectacles, irons, sewing machines, the alphabet, fans, hair dryers and more worked into Ankara fabric.
- Remove the labels carefully: For some reason, Ankara fabric is sold with sticky product labels - usually 2 large ones and then a couple of smaller ones holding the bundle together. The labels can be removed easily. Just cover the area with an ironing cloth or old sheet and iron over it with a steam setting.
- Don’t fear the washing machine: Pre-washing your fabric before sewing is always a good idea. For washing, just use a normal 30 or 40°C cycle. Some people find that adding lemon juice to the wash can make the fabric less waxy.
- Choosing your project: I love the way Ankara holds its shape and gives garments fullness and body - this makes it great for sewing structured pieces.
- Or add just a flash: Perhaps you’re not quite feeling up to a whole garment in wax print. Why not try it out as a lining say for the bib of the Bobbi pinafore or for an Eden duffle coat?
- Consider print matching: As Ankara often features large, bold prints, you may want to consider matching up the print at the seams.
- Cut away: Ankara is easy to handle like a cotton, so you can cut it using regular fabric scissors, or a rotary cutter if you prefer. The fabric presses easily - in fact, I often skip some of the pressing stages by pinching the fabric with my fingernails to make a crease.
- Mark the wrong side: It is usual for the wrong side of the fabric to look as vibrant as the right side, so working out which is which can become a headache if you’re not careful. Before you cut it out, check the selvedge - the manufacture’s name or branding will be printed along the selvedges, so the wrong side will be clear as the writing will be wrong side up.
- Sew like a cotton: Similar in weight and structure to a cotton poplin or quilting cotton, Ankara is easy to sew - hooray! A standard 80/12 sewing machine needle works fine. You can use a regular 2.4-2.6mm stitch length, although I usually use a 3mm stitch length because I think it looks nicer.
With these tips, you can confidently sew with Ankara fabric and create beautiful, unique garments.
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