In our claustrophobic lives, it's a rare luxury to experience moments of true escape, when we trade quotidian concerns for unbridled freedom. But a road trip along South Africa's Wild Coast delivers something close to that. The Wild Coast is a section of the Eastern Cape between East London and Port Edward, named so because of the rugged nature mostly untouched by humans.
Many ancient rivers empty into the Indian Ocean along the Wild Coast. Roads are poor, cell signal is poor, and the area is mostly home to small villages with cows, goats, and sheep. The area is part of the former homeland of the Transkei during the Apartheid era. The Wild Coast is popular for hiking and road trips.
Though the Eastern Cape is South Africa's third-most-populous province, the rugged Wild Coast isn't as frequently tackled by tourists as well-trammeled circuits like the Western Cape's Garden Route, KwaZulu Natal's Midlands Meander, and Mpumalanga's Panorama Route. These, with their proximity to major airports, cavalcade of rustic padstals (farm stalls) plucked from Pinterest boards, and well-stocked tourist offices plying travelers with maps and coupons, are obvious choices for out-of-towners. The Wild Coast is more ambitious, but it rewards those who want to get off the grid to hike and braai (barbecue) along secluded cliffs.
Gas stations are infrequent and the roads pocked with potholes, but the unmarred beaches are worth a little havoc on your car's suspension. Driving along the Wild Coast let Rajnee and me connect with nature in a liberating way and feel wholly present-and not just because road conditions required constant vigilance. In times when Instagram impressions rarely align with reality, this bounty of wonders delivers on its promises.
Planning Your Trip
It’s definitely “off the beaten path” and an incredible adventure for both tourists and locals. Many people drive from around Cape Town and other areas. The roads are not good and have a lot of potholes but it’s possible to do. It is highly recommended to do this in a 4×4, and have knowledge of 4×4 driving in case you get stuck. Also, make sure you have a spare tire and know how to change it.
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That said, we met at least 2 drivers who drove in small sedans and managed (poorly, and one even got stuck). There was a section of the road being paved between Hole in the Wall and Coffee Bay so there is hope. There will not be good cell service so if you get stuck, you’ll have to wait it out until another car passes. Flights to Mthatha from Joburg are frequent and fast, with the flight time being about an hour.
Some areas like Coffee Bay will be serviced by minibusses. However, to save on time, I highly suggest booking a private transfer. Your accommodation will be able to organize this with a reliable driver. A private transfer will cost you around R1200 to R1400 one way. Please consider that the drivers are coming 2+ hours just to pick you up so this is a reasonable price. Bring the full amount in cash for your drivers if you are requesting a private transfer.
Best Time to Visit
The weather in autumn (February - April) and winter (May - July) is the best to visit the Wild Coast. Sometimes nature has its own plans through. We visited in April 2022 and although this was supposed to be the dry season, an unprecedented storm came across the week before our arrival. If you want a spectacular natural experience, visit in June or July for the annual Sardine Run.
Sardines take an epic journey from the Eastern Cape coastline to the South Coast of KwaZulu Natal and are chased by whales and dolphins. The coastline has some of the most stunning views in South Africa and features a (once in a lifetime for me) multi-day hiking trip.
Getting There and Around
Fly into Durban's King Shaka International Airport and rent a car, but be prepared for a long first stretch: Port St. Johns is a six-hour drive away. The N2 highway crosses the region and is easy to drive and very well-maintained. You need to budget your time to make sure you’re driving with daylight. Renting a car isn’t always possible.
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The Baz Bus is a hop-on-hop-off bus network connecting hostels around the country. The Transkei is a large region and it’s not exactly easy to hop from village to village along the coast. There isn’t exactly a highway along the coast (but that’s why this is such a stunning place to visit!).
Tabzyphoto goes on a 5 Day Hike in the Wild Coast.
Must-See Destinations
Port St. Johns
Six hours later, at the mouth of the Mzimvubu River where it courses into the Indian Ocean, we pulled up to our first stop: Port St. Johns. The cheerful thatched-roof cottages of Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa were a welcome sight after a long day on the road. I didn't grow up visiting all-inclusive resorts, so I was uninitiated to this daily roster of trivia nights, marshmallow braais, and volleyball matches to corral guests. Later, we took a two-minute ferry across the river, where we rounded a sand dune that a few kids were enthusiastically hurtling themselves down, to find a beguiling beach devoid of people.
Family-friendly resort in Port St. Johns: Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa. Doubles from $210 umngazi.co.za
Coffee Bay
In Coffee Bay we hiked down a hillside to the Hole in the Wall, a solitary cliff just offshore through which the sea's churning torrents had carved a passage over millennia. It reminded me of Australia's 12 Apostles-but without another soul in sight.
Simple hotel right on the beach in Coffee Bay: Ocean View Hotel. Doubles from $130 oceanview.co.za. Get the hake and chips and sit on a bench overlooking the water at White Clay, Coffee Bay: Whiteclayresort.co.za.
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Qunu
From Coffee Bay we drove inland to Qunu, Nelson Mandela's hometown and resting place, in search of landmarks commemorating his legacy. Mandela's grave is always off limits to anyone except his family and friends, but we found the museum erected in his name also closed for upgrades. A lenient security officer let us look around, so we toured the exhibits and took in the views of the countryside by ourselves.
Cintsa
The next morning, in Cintsa, a coastal village with dense forests that wrap around the mouth of the Cintsa River, we clambered over a bridge and splashed through a lagoon to spend a few hours at... yet another vacant beach. I rolled out a towel and took a nap on the neglected crescent while Rajnee roamed along the water. Doubles from $150 at Crawfords Beach Lodge, Cintsa: crawfordsbeachlodge.co.za. Lovely gardens and delicious all-day breakfasts at Tea in the Trees, Cintsa: Teainthetrees.co.za.
Mdumbi
Mdumbi is near Coffee Bay. There’s a kindergarten for the community built on the hostel grounds, local Xhosa mamas cook food for the guests, locals offer tours around the village; staying here you can be sure your money is going to the right place. Mdumbi works with people from the village and trains them to give tours and excursions. Cool Bananas is the only store near Mdumbi Backpackers. For breakfast and lunch, there was a small but delicious menu to choose from. Fishermen are eager to sell you their catch, but the hostel will tell you what is in season and legal to catch so make sure to check before you buy.
If you’re a beer aficionado you can go to the local shebeen and try Xhosa beer (above in milk cartons). You can pick some up in the local shebeen. It may not be easy to get to but it is absolutely worth it. There’s nothing like the breathtaking, rolling green hills and cliffs dropping off over seemingly endless beaches.
Wild Lubanzi
Wild Lubanzi is actually one of the places I REALLY wanted to visit on the Wild Coast. But that’s great news for you because it appears to me that they’ve done an excellent job. It appears similar to Mdumbi in that it looks isolated (in all the right ways). Rent their tent accommodation that’s built onto wooden platforms with perfect views of the endless coastline.
Hiking the Wild Coast
The coastline has some of the most stunning views in South Africa and features a (once in a lifetime for me) multi-day hiking trip. With the assumption that we’d be hiking along desolate beaches and secluded bays, Wilhelm and I planned our Easter break for a 5-night hiking journey along the Wild Coast. Check out how to self-hike from Bulungula Eco Lodge, to Wild Lubanzi, to Coffee Bay, and finally to Mdumbi Backpackers. This covers just over 40km. The shortest amount of time you should spend if you’re hiking is 5 nights. That said, many people do spend just 3 nights or so in one lodge. Check out my hiking guide for two itinerary options if you’re planning to hike the Wild Coast.
South Africa’s Wild Coast, as the name suggests, is a stunning region of secluded coastline in the Eastern Cape that has gone virtually untouched by human hands. From gorgeous empty beaches and fabulous freshwater pools to cascading waterfalls and captivating cliff faces, the Wild Coast is an area of unparalleled natural beauty. We will take you to experience it all in the most intimate way- by hiking it.
Your South Africa hiking adventure actually gets off to a rather relaxed start and once you’ve arrived in Durban, we will drive you out to the Mtentu River. The journey to the Wild Coast takes about three hours so sit back, relax and have a snooze. In the evening, feel free to explore the Mtentu Estuary and watch your first glorious South African sunset from the beach.
Sample Hiking Itinerary
Day 1: Mtentu to Msikaba
Hike 13 km from Mtentu to Msikaba through the Mkambati Nature Reserve. Spot majestic wildebeest and an incredible variety of bird life.
Day 2: Msikaba to Luphatana
Hike 13 km to Luphatana. Spot the eerie Grosvenor Shipwreck and lunch at one of the freshwater pools.
Day 3: Luphatana to Mbotyi
Hike 16 km from Luphatana to Mbotyi along the top of the mighty cliffs of northern Pondoland. Visit the unusual Cathedral Rock and the spectacular Waterfall Bluff.
Day 4: Mbotyi to Manteku
Hike 11 km south from Mbotyi to Manteku past the notorious Shark Point. Spend the afternoon at your very own private beach estuary fishing, crayfish diving or just lying flat-out on the sand.
Safety and Practical Advice
TRAVEL INSURANCE | Always travel insured. Anything can happen anywhere and it is scarier and costlier in an unfamiliar country. VPN | If you’ll be using a public WiFi connection and want to secure your data, I highly recommend using a VPN.
Embrace the Unexpected
So, does having beach after beach to yourself ever get old? After a week in the Wild Coast, I can confirm: It does not.
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