The African Fat-tailed Gecko (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus) is a popular reptile among enthusiasts due to its docile nature and unique appearance. Originating from the West African region, these geckos are relatively easy to care for, making them a favorite among both beginner and experienced reptile keepers.
African Fat-tailed Geckos originate in the West African region from Senegal to Northern Cameroon. Adults reach a length of 8 to 10 inches and can easily weigh 100 grams. Hatchlings are only a few inches in length and weigh about 3 grams. Being nocturnal, they are most active at night, spending their days in hiding.
Proper Husbandry
African Fat-tailed geckos originate in West Africa and thrive in arid or semi-arid climates. They are nocturnal, but still require UVB and heat regulation. Below we will cover proper enclosures, temperature and humidity, lighting, feeding + nutritional requirements, reproductive complications (regardless of breeding), temperament, and common health problems.
Enclosure
Fat-tails are very easy to house. These amazing reptiles are terrestrial, which means that they prefer long enclosures with rocks and other short decorations to climb and hide under. Most breeders use some kind of rack system, but a naturalistic vivarium looks better and allows you to see their natural behaviors.
Never keep an animal in cramped quarters. They can thrive in 5 sided tanks/enclosures with one mesh surface to allow breathing, (like a fish tank with a mesh lid, or a front opening enclosure with a mesh lid). Please keep them out of the direct line of an AC/heating vent that can rapidly change the temperature of their ambient air.
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When they are babies, they can easily tolerate a smaller 10 gallon enclosure. As they grow they will need plenty of room to move around. The minimum size for an adult is a 20 gallon tank, however they would thrive in a larger area. Custom built enclosures can provide more space than a store-bought one.
Please ensure that all decorations in the enclosure can support their full weight, as they will climb on literally everything, and falling can cause injury. Also ensure that no decorations are so heavy they could become squished under them. They prefer to have several basking zones located in different portions of their cage. They need to be able to freely move throughout the enclosure, so not all decorations need to be in the same location. They also prefer to have “hiding” spots. They can thrive in either bioactive or artificial environments. If live plants are placed in the enclosure, they will likely take bites out of them from time to time, so ensure that the types of plants used are non toxic. Refrain from using plants that have been treated with fertilizer and/or pesticides as these can also be harmful.
Substrate
African fat-tailed geckos can thrive on many different types of substrate such as paper towel, slate, tile or packed eco earth. They thrive in a moisture maintained dirt mix (70% untreated topsoil and 30% play sand).
They are often kept in tanks with a changeable felt/reptile-carpet bottom, which allows for simple and easy cleanup. While it is often recommended, and much better than several alternatives, felt/carpet can harbor bacteria and lead to various infections if not disinfected properly on a regular basis. Eco earth tends to be more humid which sand consistently doesn’t provide. My animals are all kept on paper or paper towel. On these substrates you must provide a humid shelter.
Avoid calcium sand, as it can cause digestive system issues. Never use cedar or pine shavings. It is not recommended keeping them on sand, as it can lead to dehydration and prevent them from properly shedding. It can also lead to impaction if accidentally ingested.
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Provide several hiding places using saucer pans, plants, wood etc. Place hides on both ends of the cage, including a humid hide. A humid hide is essential in their environment. You can easily create one using a glad or Tupperware container with a wet paper towel.
Temperature and Humidity
African fat-tailed geckos thrive in arid climates, as they are native to southwestern Asia. They enjoy heat and low humidity, however, like all reptiles need a cool space to escape to in order to regulate temperature. It is also best that we follow their natural seasonal environmental fluctuations.
Humidity should be maintained around 30-40%. This can be easily measured by using a hygrometer placed in the middle of the enclosure. To achieve humidity in dry climates, you can lightly mist the enclosure with water 1-2 times per day.
All reptiles need access to a warm side and a cool side of the enclosure, as they are unable to thermoregulate (regulate their own temperature through bodily function). There are different ways to provide proper heat, such as using a heat mat under the cage or a ceramic heat bulb. This will give off heat and light, though there is no need for special UVB lighting.
Temperatures should be somehow regulated using a dimmer switch allowing you to adjust the temperature. Never overheat your geckos.
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- Rainy/Warm Season (April-October): warm side 90-94°F, cool side 72-77°F, nighttime 72-77°F
- Dry/Cool Season (November-March): warm side 79°F, cool side 68-74°F, nighttime 63-64°F
We recommend using either a ceramic heat emitter or a heat bulb to maintain temperatures. Utilizing two thermostats (one for the warm side and one for the cool side) will ensure the heat is controlled and not too hot for your pet. The larger the enclosure, the larger the necessary bulb wattage. These heating sources need to be outside of the enclosure or separated by a barrier so the african fat-tailed geckos cannot attempt to crawl on them and accidentally burn themselves. DO NOT. WE REPEAT. DO NOT USE AN ELECTRICALLY HEATED ROCK IN THE ENCLOSURE. They will lead to severe burns.
Lighting
In addition to a heating source, African fat-tailed geckos need special lighting to help maintain vitamin D3 levels. They will need a specialized reptile artificial UVB bulb over/in their cage that stays on for 10-12 hours each day. Though they are nocturnal, they will absorb the proper amount of UVB, just like they do in the wild. The size/output of the bulb necessary will vary depending on cage size and depth. The bulb will need to span the length of the cage, so a “light bar” is preferred.
Diagram of appropriate lighting set up for geckos.
Diet
African fat-tailed geckos consume a wide variety of food in the wild, therefore they need a variety of food in captivity. Feeding a variant diet will help ensure that they will receive all the nutrients they need. They should consume safe (non- toxic) insects that have been gut loaded.
Offer a staple diet of crickets and waxworms can be given as a treat, but they are not as healthy because they are very fattening. Provide as much as the gecko will consume in a given feeding. Depending on the size of the gecko this can be anywhere from 4 to 8 crickets. Remove any uneaten crickets, as they can get nibbled on by hungry insects.
Feed adults every other day. A dish of fresh water should always be available. Use 2 ounce or 4 ounce portion cups for babies and adults. Keeping water fresh is very important so it should be changed regularly. Water that is stagnant is a breeding ground for bacteria and can cause illness. Change water dishes and give fresh water regularly to prevent the spread of bacteria or anything else that may be in it.
Insects should be “gut-loaded” which means fed a nutrient rich diet for at least 48 hours prior to being fed to the gecko. Gut-loading refers to feeding prey prior to feeding to your animals. Feed them a diet limited to fruits, vegetables and grains or you can use available products that are in powder form. I gutload for all my feeders, as it ensures a healthier gecko in the long run. Dust the prey just before feeding with a calcium and vitamins supplement.
There are available products that are in powder form. Place the insects in the bag until they are covered in calcium. Offer calcium and vitamins supplement 1 to 2 times per week, as it is essential to produce the egg shells. Some keepers leave a small dish of calcium with them 24/7, allowing them to lick what they want. Remember that failure to provide calcium can lead to a variety of health issues, with the most common being Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and can cause serious problems with reptiles.
For insects, they should be offered a variety of crickets, dubia roach nymphs, discoid roach nymphs, black soldier fly larvae, mealworms, darkling beetle, hornworms, silkworms, grasshoppers/locusts These insects should be captive raised, to prevent feeding them insects that may have pesticides, parasites, and unsafe fertilizers. Hornworms and silkworms should be fed more sparingly, as they have less of the nutrients that reptiles need and are more of a “dessert” to them.
African fat-tailed geckos in captivity need help maintaining vitamin D3 and calcium levels. Their food will need to be dusted with a calcium powder at atleast 3 meals per week. A bowl of calcium powder should never be left out, as they can “overdo” it on the calcium. In pet stores you can purchase calcium powder, and a combo of calcium and D3. It is recommended that Calcium only be used for most of their meals, and 1-2 times a week use the Calcium/D3 combo powder. Do not use calcium with phosphorus added, as this can damage the kidneys and cause gout.
Remember that some insects and vegetation are toxic. Toxic insects that should never be fed to a reptile include: Lady bugs, fireflies, monarch butterflies, lubber hoppers, horn worms that have been on tomato plants, box elder beetles, assassins bugs, centipedes, hairy caterpillars, milkweed bugs, bees or wasps-Unless stingers removed, spiderssome butterflies & moths, isopods. For information on toxic vegetation please refer to a african fat-tailed gecko safe plant list. Keep in mind that safe plants can easily be made unsafe with the use of fertilizers and pesticides, which can live in the soil for quite some time.
Sexing African Fat-Tailed Geckos
There are a few different methods to determine the sex of African Fat-Tailed Geckos. One way is to look at the under side of the gecko. Males have pronounced hemipenal bulges behind the vent on the tail side, located just above the vent between the hind legs. They also have obvious pores under the base of the hind legs, which are absent in females. Another way to tell is just by looking at them. Male African Fat-Tailed Geckos have a broader, heavier head than females, and the base of their tail is swollen to house the hemipenes.
Sometimes it's hard to see the pores. On some individuals, you may have to look really closely to see them.
Breeding African Fat-Tailed Geckos
Fat tail breeding is almost identical to that of leopard geckos. Consider the time and resources needed to maintain the breeders and babies. What will you do with the babies if they don’t sell right away? Will you still house and take care of them? These are important questions to consider before attempting breeding. Don't attempt this until your breeders are ready. Make sure they are full grown adults, healthy and at a good weight, typically at least 1 year old and 50 grams for a matured pair.
Although captive-bred African fat-tailed geckos may breed anytime of the year, it is best to try for an autumn mating. African fat-tailed geckos may need a small drop in temperatures to spur successful mating. In November, the room temperature at night should be several degrees lower than just a few months earlier. Make sure African fat-tailed geckos have a cool end to their breeding cage, one where the temperature in the hide box drops to about 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night.
Some breeders induce a cool down or hibernation period to stimulate breeding. Lower the temperatures to about 70 degrees fahrenheit as a high. After a few weeks, raise the temperatures back to normal and start feeding to help them gain back the weight they lost during the cool down.
Introduce the male with the female for a little time, then take him out. Mating is likely to take place at night and go unnoticed, though males often chase females. Keep an eye on your female’s belly once you put the African fat-tailed geckos back together. If mating was successful, you should notice developing eggs through her belly skin about three to four weeks later, and laying will take place shortly. Give the female an egg-laying container filled with moist vermiculite and a hole cut in the side for an entrance. Watch for the eggs.
If you have problems with fertility, remember that one male African fat-tailed gecko can serve two or three females, so try expanding your colony. If the eggs still are infertile, then your male is the problem. If you are introducing male with the female or visa versa, be cautious, as the female might bite back. It is best to introduce the male into the female’s enclosure. This will help prevent possible injury and aggression due to a male's territorial tendencies.
After a successful mating, the female will lay her first clutch of eggs, usually 2 white oval eggs, with each clutch being laid in 2 to 4 week intervals. Provide a suitable container for the female to lay her eggs in, then move the eggs to an incubator.
Fat tail eggs are temperature sexed dependent. Eggs laid without breeding are “infertile”. If sperm have been introduced to them, they are “fertile”. A group of eggs laid at once is called a “clutch”. She will gain weight right before laying her clutch. She also may abandon food for a few days prior to laying. Without having a place to lay them, they can refuse to lay their eggs and this can cause serious medical issues. They can also become “egg bound” which refers to the inability to lay eggs, which is a medical emergency. She can also store sperm from a previous mating and use it to fertilize several clutches of eggs. Females are more prone to prolapsed cloaca ( the hole by which they breed and urinate and poop), which is a medical emergency. A prolapse is when the part of the cloaca that should not be seen and is on the inside, pops out.
Incubation takes 55 to 80 days or so, and the sex of hatchling African fat-tailed geckos depends on their incubation temperature. A temperature of 86 to 88 degrees produces mostly or all males, whereas one a few degrees higher or lower than this produces females. Thus an incubation temperature of about 84 to 86 degrees should give you a mix of both sexes.
The eggs will hatch in 30 to 105 days, hatching sooner because of the higher temperatures and later at the cooler temperatures. Females hatch around 60 days and males around 35 days.
Temperament
African fat-tailed geckos, once they reach sexual maturity, are “loners” and prefer to be housed alone without a view of other reptiles. Placing two cages next to one another without a visual barrier between them will leave room for aggression and aggression-caused-injuries. We would not recommend housing other types of reptiles or amphibians with them, as they will likely cause harm to those critters, or attempt to fight and can injure themselves.
Just like other reptiles, it will take some time for them to become comfortable with handling. It’s best to take it slow, allowing them to adjust to their new environment. Start by placing your hand as it is inside the cage, then eventually you can take it out and hold it. Fast or too rough of handling can cause stress on the animal.
We recommend handling in short intervals until they get used to you. Once grown, they can both scratch and bite. The most important thing to remember is to never grab the tail! The tail will detach, as many reptiles are capable of this defense mechanism.
Common Medical Issues
Common medical issues should be practiced by everyone who keeps established colonies to make sure they are healthy and to quarantine established animals for at least 90 days, thoroughly cleaning their enclosure afterwards. With smaller collections of animals it’s easier to treat them than it is your entire collection.
The most common medical issue that African fat-tailed geckos can have is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which can be fatal. This is typically the result of a calcium and vitamin D3 deficient reptile. If proper lighting and food supplementation are not maintained, MBD is almost guaranteed to happen. Signs of MBD include: lethargy, difficulty standing or walking and controlling limbs, swollen joints (mainly in legs), muscle twitches, flexible bones, fragile bones, and curvature of the spine. Leg movements will also be erratic and abnormal.
These geckos with this disease should be removed from enclosures with decorations and placed in an enclosure where they cannot fall and injure themselves further. With proper treatment, metabolic bone disease can be slowly reversed, but most of the time a treated reptile will still have some physical abnormalities.
Eye issues are the second most common issue to occur in African fat-tailed geckos. If they are not able to properly shed, they can retain their eye caps. Retained eye caps can lead to injury and infection, not to mention impair vision. Other issues can include general injury and infection. Any eye problems should be seen by a veterinarian immediately.
For females, egg retention or becoming “egg bound” is a main concern. Typically this is due to calcium/vitamin D3 deficiency, but can occur from other health issues as well. Unfortunately, there really are no home remedies and she will need to visit a veterinarian.
Respiratory infections are common in African fat-tailed geckos and often result from inadequate humidity levels in their enclosure. Often pet stores tell owners to provide excessive humidity, which can be catastrophic for this desert breed. If your gecko is showing signs of a respiratory infection, such as discharge from the nose or eyes or rapid/labored breathing, seek veterinary attention immediately.
Tail loss- African fat-tailed geckos are one of the types of reptiles that can “drop” their tails as a defense mechanism. They can also grow them back! However, If your gecko is “dropping” its tail on a frequent basis, there may be an underlying health issue going on. We would recommend seeking veterinary attention for geckos that are dropping their tails frequently or when unprovoked (if it seems like there is no reason).
“Stick-tail” refers to an underweight gecko. If their tails are skinnier than they should be, it indicates that they are underweight and need to be evaluated for underlying conditions, such as parasites.
Stomatitis, also known as mouth-rot, or inflammation of the mouth, is also common for these reptiles. Typically stomatitis is due to injury, nutritional deficiencies, or environmental issues. It can easily lead to infection and should always be treated by a veterinarian.
Enigma Syndrome is a neurological disorder that affects cognitive behavior and balance. Often this is the result of improper heating of their enclosure or improper nutrition. You should seek veterinary help if you notice any neurological inconsistencies or have concerns.
Aside from a female about to lay a clutch of eggs, African fat-tailed geckos should see a veterinarian if they gain or lose weight rapidly, have sunken/hollow eyes, difficulty breathing, diarrhea or other gastrointestinal issues, injuries, seem very lethargic, or have any other concerning symptoms.
