Dubuque is an exciting place to visit these days, as the historic core fills back in with residents and small businesses. It’s possible that Dubuque has never looked better. Still, the city remains something of an enigma.
Downtown Dubuque, Iowa
Early History
Early settlers moved into a territory with no official government and settled on land for which title was uncertain. George Harrison tried to get a head start on the town creation process by laying out a few lots in 1833, but the first official plat did not happen until 1837.
After Dubuque died in 1810, the Mesquakie, concerned about losing their lead mines to the Americans (their territory was still off-limits), continued to mine and smelt the lead themselves. At the same time, lead mining on the east side of the river was growing rapidly and thousands of white settlers were crossing the river illegally. They were forced out by federal troops, but by 1832, the Mesquakie were forced to abandon the mines because of continuing hostilities with nearby Dakota Indians. Within a short time, mining camps sprung up along the west side of the Mississippi River. The area that became known as Dubuque’s Mines evolved into the town of Dubuque in 1834.
In the 1840s locals adopted the nickname of “Key City” because of Dubuque’s role in expanding settlement across Iowa and points west. By the 1840s, Dubuque was transforming from a rough-and-tumble mining camp into a civilized town, more or less. Good agricultural prospects lured many miners into farming; some miners left in the California Gold Rush; some mines were plagued by high water levels that prevented extracting the ore. While lead mining was good business, it was never as prosperous as in neighboring areas.
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Growth and Transformation
In the 1850s Dubuque’s population, fueled by the arrival of immigrants from Ireland and Germany, grew from 3,108 to 14,319. Wealthier residents built houses on the bluff; downtown was populated with hotels that were often full of single men and a few families looking for temporary housing on their way elsewhere.
During the Civil War, a substantial number of Dubuquers had pro-Southern leanings, even though only a very small percentage of its population had ties to the South. Its Democratic politics were largely anti-Catholic and anti-foreigner, influenced by the Know Nothing movement. In the 1860 presidential election, Dubuque city went for Stephen A. Douglas, the Illinois senator who was certainly no abolitionist.
Even though railroads were replacing steamboats, river traffic did not fade away. Although railroad construction was booming on the east side of the Mississippi River (the railroads reached Dunleith, now known as East Dubuque, in 1855), a few unsuccessful attempts were made to build railroads from Dubuque to the west. It wasn’t until after the Civil War that railroad construction took off in earnest. In 1874, Diamond Jo Reynolds moved his headquarters to Dubuque and built a shipyard at Eagle Point; it operated successfully until the early 1900s.
Dubuque’s expansion through the late nineteenth and early twentieth century-between 1870 and 1900 Dubuque’s population doubled-was due mostly to manufacturing, particularly lumber and woodworking, brewing, and meat packing. One of the best-known manufacturers was the Cooper Wagon Works, which began in the 1860s and was nationally renowned for its exceptionally solid wagons.
Even as Dubuque’s population grew, the city didn’t see the waves of immigrants in the early 1900s that other American cities saw. The city’s culture was heavily influenced by Germans and therefore stung deeply by the rise in anti-German sentiment with World War I.
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In May 1918, Iowa Governor Harding issued the infamous “Babel Proclamation” that prohibited the speaking of foreign languages in public-including on the telephone, at church, and at school. Even after World War I, anti-foreigner sentiment continued to increase in Dubuque and the Ku Klux Klan gained a foothold.
Dubuquers may have been crankier than the rest of the nation in the 1920s, because the economic boom that the United States experienced largely bypassed them. They also suffered greater hardship during the Great Depression than the country as a whole.
With the end of World War II, Dubuque finally got some good economic news: the Dubuque Packing Company had a new owner and began a robust expansion, and the John Deere Company built a massive factory at Peru Bottoms. The record flood of 1965 gave the impetus to build a flood wall.
Dubuque fell victim to the misguided urban renewal philosophies of the 1970s and 1980s and leveled large sections of old neighborhoods as new development (and housing) pushed west; as in many other places, the anticipated new development never really materialized. Gradually, historic preservation took root in the 1980s and beyond.
Like many old industrial towns, the 1980s were tough in Dubuque. Renovation of historic properties is in full swing today. Older parts of town like the Historic Millwork District are coming back to life as complete neighborhoods, and the city has embraced the idea of going green with new construction and renovation.
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Exploring North Dubuque
Mathias Ham was an early lead miner in the region-too early, in fact. His first attempt to make money involved organizing a group of 50 miners and taking them, illegally, across the Mississippi into Indian lands. They were eventually forced out by federal troops. After the Black Hawk War, mining opened up and Mathias Ham moved in, legally, and got rich. Over the years, however, he lost most of his money on unsuccessful business ventures, such as the failed town of Eagle Point. When he died, his mansion was his last remaining asset.
Mathias Ham House Historic Site
Start the morning off at the Mathias Ham House, where you can tour the home of this 19th-century entrepreneur. This stop is perfect for the history buff, architecture aficionado, or anyone looking for a captivating glimpse into the past. It will leave a lasting impression. That house is now the Mathias Ham House Historic Site (2241 Lincoln Ave.; 563.557.9545). Constructed of native limestone, the house looks solid and imposing from the outside but the interior has an understated elegance. Docents in period costume will guide you around the house after a ten-minute video narrated by local celebrity Kate Mulgrew of Star Trek: Voyager fame.
Eagle Point Park
Just around the corner from the Ham House, Eagle Point Park (2601 Shiras Ave.; 563.589.4238) was created in 1909 and underwent considerable renovation during the Depression thanks to a grant from the Works Progress Administration. If the buildings remind you of Frank Lloyd Wright, it is because the superintendent who designed them, Alfred Caldwell, was a big fan of Wright’s Prairie School. Besides the impressive buildings, the park has great views of the river and Lock and Dam #11 and no shortage of places to picnic. After Wanderwoods, head to Eagle Point Park. The park is open to auto traffic from May through October.
Port of Dubuque
The Port of Dubuque, also known as Ice Harbor, has undergone a substantial makeover in recent years. It has several places you might wish to pass the time.
National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium
The National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium (350 E. 3rd St.; 563.557.9545), an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institute, is one of the best museums along the Mississippi River. Indoor exhibits include displays of aquatic life native to Mississippi River environments (check out the unreal fish in the Main Channel display-sturgeon, blue catfish, paddlefish, and don’t even get me started on the alligator gar), a cool flyover perspective of the Mississippi River from the headwaters to the delta, the history of river navigation, two theaters, and a collection of river-related art. Upstairs, you can virtually pilot a tow (using a computer simulation) and visit the National Rivers Hall of Fame.
On the other side of the railroad trestle from the winery is the Old Shot Tower (Riverfront between E. 4th and E. 6th Streets), built in 1856, it is one of the few remaining structures that was used to manufacture lead shot.
Downtown Dubuque
Lower Main Street is the heart of the original (1833) commercial district. The Town Clock originally sat atop the John Bell and Company store in the 1860s; it was hailed as the most accurate town clock in America.
Dubuque County Courthouse
The standout Dubuque County Courthouse (720 Central Ave.) is a masterful, if over-the-top, Beaux Arts building designed by Fridolin Heer. Completed in 1891, the building was constructed with gray Indiana limestone, red brick, and terra cotta; the exterior is marked by intricate brick work, steeples, Grecian pediments, statues, and a 190-foot-tall tower with a 14-foot bronze statue of Justice atop it.
Downtown has several beautiful historic churches. Many are locked when services are not being held, so call in advance if you want to tour the inside.
St. Luke’s United Methodist Church
If you only have time to visit one church, head to St. Luke’s United Methodist Church (1199 Main St.; 563.582.4543). Founded in 1833, it is home to the oldest congregation in Iowa. The current Romanesque church was completed in 1897 and is an exquisite, beautiful, sublime, stunning temple to God that is home to dozens of Tiffany art glass windows, including five large and resplendent ones. You can borrow a guidebook from the office.
Cathedral of St. Raphael and St. Patrick Church
On the other side of downtown, the Gothic Revival Cathedral of St. Raphael and St. Patrick Church (231 Bluff St.; 563.582.7646) was built between 1852 and 1859. The interior has frescoes created by Luigi Gregori and art glass windows imported from London in 1889. The basement has a solemn Italian marble-lined mortuary chapel, built in 1903, that was off-limits to the public until 1997.
St. Mary Catholic Church (Steeple Square)
St. Mary Catholic Church (1584 White St.; 563.582.5469) was completed in 1867 for a predominantly German parish. Designed by John Mullany, an architect with a specialty in gothic revival design who also designed the Cathedral of St. Raphael, the large-and tall-structure is distinguished by a 252-foot steeple that was modeled after Salisbury Cathedral in England. Many of the art glass windows are the creation of Bavarian artist F.X. Zetteler; they were shipped from Munich in 1912, just ahead of the violence that triggered World War I. The windows depict key events in the life of Mary, beginning with her birth (west side window at the front) and ending with her death (east side window at the front). The mural of the Assumption behind the altar was painted by Matilda Brielmaier in 1912. The mural, 35 feet tall, was painted on three pieces of canvas in the artist’s studio, installed in the church, and finished. The Altar of St. Mary (west side aisle) was installed in 1928; it is made of Italian Carrara marble and is decorated with a mosaic of Mary and houses the relics of four saints, including St. Anthony and St. Francis. The church closed in 2010 and is now an events center called Steeple Square.
Saint John’s Episcopal Church
Saint John’s Episcopal Church (1410 Main St.; 563.556.0252) was founded in 1836; the current English Gothic building was finished in 1882. The limestone exterior is set off by doors painted a deep red-symbols of the blood of early Christian martyrs and Christ.
First Congregational United Church of Christ
Another old congregation, the First Congregational United Church of Christ (255 W. 10th St.; 563.582.3648) dates to 1839 but the current building was dedicated in 1860, making it one of the oldest existing churches in Dubuque. When news of Lee’s surrender reached Dubuque in 1865, the church bell was rung so vigorously that it cracked. The bell was not replaced until 1886. The sanctuary is spacious and adorned with elaborate but warm woodwork, a Tiffany window, and an impressive organ behind the altar. The organ was installed in 1869, its trip from the manufacturer in Massachusetts completed with a tricky journey across the iced-over Mississippi River.
Fenelon Place Elevator
The Fenelon Place Elevator (4th St. at the bluff; 563.582.6496) was originally built for the personal use of J.K. Graves in 1882, who wanted an easier way to get to his home on top of the hill. It was rebuilt after a fire in 1883 and then opened to the public as the Fourth Street Elevator. In the past 120 years, the only major overhaul was in 1977 when the cars were replaced.
South Dubuque
Crystal Lake Cave
Crystal Lake Cave (6684 Crystal Lake Cave Rd.; 563.556.6451) is a good starter cave, if you’ve never been in one before.
Our Lady of the Mississippi Abbey
Our Lady of the Mississippi Abbey (8400 Abbey Hill Lane; 563.582.2595) is home for a group of Cistercian nuns living a contemplative life. They host prayer services at noon and vespers at 5pm; the public is welcome to attend. The nuns have a small organic farm and pay their expenses by producing and selling Trappistine Creamy Caramels. The Abbey is about six miles south of Dubuque. The gift shop is open 11am-3pm on Monday, Thursday, and Friday.
West Dubuque
Dubuque Arboretum
The Dubuque Arboretum (3800 Arboretum Dr.; 563.556.2100), located in Marshall Park on the city’s northwest side, may be a bit out of the way, but you should go, anyway.
Parks Along the Mississippi River
Just downriver of Lock & Dam #11, A.Y. Miller-Riverview Park (2 Admiral Sheehy Dr.; 563.589.4238) is situated next to the Mississippi River and the greyhound race track on Hamm Island.
Sports & Recreation
Swiss Valley Nature Preserve
Swiss Valley Nature Preserve (Swiss Valley Rd.; 563.556.6745) has a number of places to hike in its 500 acres of wilderness, plus trout fishing, and an interpretive center.
Swiss Valley Park
Practically next door, Swiss Valley Park (563.556.6745) offers more hiking trails, picnicking, and a campground.
Mines of Spain Recreation Area
Mines of Spain Recreation Area (563.556.0620) is another outstanding park along the Mississippi River. The park includes the Julien Dubuque Monument, the dramatic bluff-top location where the city’s namesake was buried in 1810. The park has several miles of hiking trails; the ¾-mile hike around Horseshoe Bluff is a fairly easy and quick hike. Also within the park boundaries is the E.B.
Mines of Spain Recreation Area Map
Getting on the River
American Lady Yacht Cruises (1630 E.
Tours
If you’re into seeing how things get built, take a tour of the John Deere Factory in Dubuque, where they build backhoes, skid loaders, and other big stuff. The 90-minute tour takes you through the manufacturing process.
The Diamond Jo Casino (301 Bell St.; 563.690.4800) has 36,000 square feet of gaming space with 1000 slot machines and 20 gaming tables.
Farmers Market
The main farmers market is next to City Hall (11th to 13th Streets between Central and Main Streets; Sa 7a-noon).
Dubuque Bald Eagle Watch
Dubuque Bald Eagle Watch (January; 563.556.4372) celebrates the annual southerly migration of the previously-endangered species. Outdoor viewing events are centered around Lock and Dam #11 and A.Y. McDonald Park.
Nightlife
Smokestack (62 E. 7th St.) is another option, a unique three-story entertainment venue that specializes in live music and art.
Author's Pick: Jubeck New World Brewing
AUTHOR’S PICK: Jubeck New World Brewing (115 W. 11th St.; 775.375.5692) started as a home brewing hobby and evolved into a popular microbrewery. From their home in a historic 19th century storefront, they offer a dozen or more beers on tap (and a cider or two) at any given time. It’s a place tailor made for relaxing and chatting ...
Dubuque, Iowa Historical Landmarks
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