Food is an integral part of culture, shaping identities and connecting people to their heritage. In Africa, the diversity of cuisines reflects the continent's rich history and the unique culinary traditions of its various regions. From the origins of iconic dishes like Jollof rice to the challenges faced by African restaurants in modern cities, the story of African food is a complex and fascinating one.
The Story of Jollof Rice
Jollof rice is one of the most common dishes in West Africa, a testament to its cultural significance and widespread appeal. The dish's most common name of jollof derives from the name of the Wolof people, though in Senegal, Mauritania and The Gambia the dish is referred to in Wolof as ceebu jën or benachin.
The Jolof or Wolof Empire was a confederacy state that ruled parts of West Africa situated in modern-day Senegal, Mali, The Gambia and Mauritania from around the 12th century and was later known as the Jolof Kingdom. In French-speaking West Africa, a variation of the dish is known as riz au gras. There are several regional variations in name and ingredients; for example, in Mali it is called zaamè in Bamanankan.
Jollof rice traditionally consists of rice, cooking oil, tomato puree, onion, salt, chilies, and often some combination of other ingredients such as tomato paste, bell pepper, garlic, ginger, thyme, curry powder, bay leaves, grains of selim, and bouillon cubes or stock; recipes vary from country to country and cook to cook.
Food and agriculture historian James C. McCann argued that it was unlikely that the dish could have naturally spread from Senegal to its current range since a similar cultural diffusion is not seen in "linguistic, historical or political patterns". Marc Dufumier, an emeritus professor of agronomy, proposes a more recent origin for the dish, which may only have appeared as a consequence of the colonial promotion of intensive peanut cropping in central Senegal for the French oil industry, and where commensurate reduction in the planted area of traditional millet and sorghum staples was compensated for by imports of broken rice from Southeast Asia.
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Since the 2010s, there has been increasing interest in West African foods in the western world. Jollof food festivals have been held in Washington, DC, and Toronto.
Regional Variations and Cooking Methods
The method of cooking Ghanaian jollof begins with first preparing the beef or chicken by seasoning and steaming it with a pureé of ginger, onions and garlic and frying it until it is well-cooked. The rest of the ingredients are then fried all together, starting from onions, pepper, tomato paste, tomatoes and spices in that order. After all the ingredients have been fried, rice is then added and cooked until the meal is prepared.
The important quality of rice used to cook Nigerian one-pot rice recipes, including jollof rice, is that it is parboiled. The decision whether to use any of the numerous brands of conventional long-grain parboiled/easy-cook rice (e.g., Tolly Boy, Mama Gold, Dangote Rice, Veetee, Village Pride, Tropical Sun, Mama Pride, Mama Africa, Cap Rice, Uncle Ben’s, Royal Stallion, Carolina Gold) or Golden Sella basmati-parboiled rice is merely a matter of availability, convenience and/or personal preference and the sub-status of one or the other grain-group being conventional long-grain or basmati long-grain completely irrelevant. What matters is that it is parboiled (i.e., partially boiled at the husk when processing). Most of the ingredients are cooked in one pot, of which a rich meat stock or broth and a fried tomato and pepper puree characteristically forms the base.
In French-speaking West Africa, including Beninese, Burkinabé, Guinean, Ivorian, Nigerien, and Togolese cuisines, there is a variant called riz gras or riz au gras, which translates to "fat rice", a reference to the short-grain rice usually used in the dish.
Native rice, also called concoction rice, uses red palm oil and smoked, dried fish and is seasoned with locust beans (also known as iru or dawa-dawa), uziza seeds and/or scent leaf, occasionally sprinkled with cut olili (local mint).
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NIGERIAN PARTY JOLLOF RICE
The Challenges of African Food in Cape Town
Despite South Africa's rich culinary heritage, African food is surprisingly scarce in Cape Town's restaurant scene. Walking along Bree St., the trendiest dining strip in downtown Cape Town, you will have no end of options: high-end Peruvian, Spanish tapas, pizzas topped with kimchi, lobster rolls, pork belly panini and a smoothies and muesli bar. About the only thing you can't find is African food.
Cape Town is the second-largest city in South Africa, a wine and fine-dining mecca that's drawing increased international attention. But its restaurant scene is practically bereft of African food. South Africa is home to a rich variety of cuisines, from the indigenous dishes still made at home by people of tribal descent, to the fusion foods that resulted from the arrivals not just of Europeans but also of Muslim slaves from the Far East whose descendants came to be collectively known as Cape Malay. Little of that is reflected on restaurant menus.
The lack of African eating choices reflects a simple fact about Cape Town, some residents complain: It's a place that caters more to tourists than locals. "It's not surprising how little African food influence there is in the city," says Nobhongo Gxolo, a journalist who runs a monthly supper club. "It reflects how little this is an African city."
More than 20 years after the end of apartheid, there are lively protests and ongoing debates in South Africa about how various aspects of society - universities, textbooks, the national anthem, even hairstyles - appear to embrace white or eurocentric values, while minimizing or suppressing black ones. No one is treating restaurants as a civil rights issue, but the lack of African options speaks to the same concerns. "How is it that you can't find an African restaurant in an African city?" says Obenewa Amponsah, CEO of the Steve Biko Foundation, a community development nonprofit.
Two area restaurants are included among TripAdvisor's 25 top fine dining spots in the world. Last year, readers of Conde Nast Traveler picked Cape Town as the world's best food city. Yet the restaurants that are being widely hailed have menus that would offer nothing new to diners in London or Paris. Indigenous cuisines and ingredients are simply not offered to the vast majority of restaurant patrons.
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You can find the occasional dish that sprung up in South Africa on a few restaurant menus - a dessert known as malva pudding, or bobotie, a curried meat casserole - but places that specialize in such food are scarce. There are grains such as sorghum and millet that are native to the Cape, but ignored by most restaurant chefs. So are dishes such as umngqusho - samp (crushed corn kernels) and sugar beans - that could be served drowned in butter and made scrumptious like risotto. "It's absolutely bizarre that those are not reflected on Cape Town restaurant menus," says Trapido, the author of Hunger for Freedom: The Story of Food in the Life of Nelson Mandela.
Visitors seeking "authentic" or "traditional" African dishes are often advised to head for the segregated, generally poor townships outside the city limits. "You need to get out of Cape Town to experience traditional African food," says Hilary Biller, food editor of the Sunday Times. Imagine visiting Chicago or New York and being told you'd have to drive miles outside the city center if you want to try a hamburger or a hot dog.
In the heart of Cape Town, there are about a half-dozen restaurants that proudly announce themselves as serving dishes of the African continent, with names like Marco's African Place or the Africa Cafe. But those are restaurants that cater to tour groups, with the focus not on food but the entire experience, complete with animal skins hanging on the walls, marimba bands and waiters wearing boldly-printed shirts. "We don't really get that many local people," says Samantha Harwood, night manager at Mama Africa. "We as a restaurant are not your African heritage food meal. It's what a tourist can handle." In other words, no smileys - which is the local name for boiled sheep's head.
Economic Factors and Cultural Identity
When Africans eat out in Cape Town, though, their choices are pretty much limited to foreign foods, including plenty of fast-food places. The few black people who run restaurants in Cape Town see more profit in serving up sushi than sadza, a stew-and-stiff-porridge dish that's a staple across southern Africa. "The African community in Cape Town isn't that vibrant economically," says Fanie Jason, a noted photographer who's lived in the area his entire life. "In Cape Town, there's no black dollar that you can depend upon."
And so the city remains to a large extent what it was after the first white settlers arrived in the 17th century: a refreshment station for European travelers. The area was set up by the Dutch East India Company to provide meat, produce and fresh water to sailors passing through on their way to Asia. The vegetable gardens are preserved as the city's main downtown park, which is known as Company's Garden. There's a cafe there where you can sit at an outdoor table, surrounded by large wooden sculptures of animals. The menu features chicken burgers, roast beef sandwiches and Greek salad.
The Richness of African Cuisine
Dr. Tyner: “The richness of it. Food is an invitation to understand; 54 countries on the continent. Going back to the example: Jollof. Jollof looks dramatically different in each Western country. But are the roots the same? Yes, the tomato and peppers are essential. The roots are the same, but the flare of the culture differs- that’s the beauty of Mama Africa. There’s not one experience, there’s not one story. But once we bring them all together, we have this rich tapestry that makes you say: the world evolved from Africa. What does that really mean? It means that Africa is a foundation of history, therefore African food has to be innovative and creative because the culinary experience started there.”
Stew is the main style of cooking across West Africa. Stew is made up of meats, vegetables, and fresh spices. One day, grandma made this stew out of smoked fish with some fufu on the side. It was a flavorful treat. You can leave me in Ghana while I enjoy Grandma’s stews. I will never leave. Stews are important, they are all the richness of flavors coming together as a delight. The foods are one piece, but beverages are another. My favorite beverage is Bissap. It’s made out of the hibiscus flower, mixed with ginger, and fresh spices are added. It’s a healthy, powerful antioxidant beverage.
Examples of African Dishes and Ingredients
Here are some examples of African dishes and ingredients that showcase the diversity and richness of the continent's culinary heritage:
- Okra: A gift from West Africa, integral to African dishes and cooked in many ways.
- Plantains: An important staple in most African meals, enjoyed fried, boiled, smashed, and steamed.
- Beans: Essential to Africa, with more than 50 types of bean dishes made and eaten all over the continent.
- Waakye: A delicious way to enjoy black-eyed peas, commonly found in Ghana.
- Lentils: High in protein and can serve as a main entree when paired with rice.
- Stew: A main style of cooking across West Africa, made up of meats, vegetables, and fresh spices.
- Bissap: A healthy and powerful antioxidant beverage made out of the hibiscus flower, mixed with ginger, and fresh spices.
The very best food experience is right in our backyard. Minnesota is known for its food culture. It shows us how each culture is unique and different in their own way. Food is a way to connect and intersect communities, it is truly a way to bring all of us together, to enjoy a piece of culture. It's a sense of belonging, knowing we get to enjoy a delightful meal. So, go out there and try new experiences!
Conclusion
African cuisine is a vibrant and diverse reflection of the continent's history, culture, and traditions. From the iconic Jollof rice to the flavorful stews and unique ingredients, African food offers a rich tapestry of culinary experiences. While challenges remain in promoting and celebrating African cuisine in certain urban settings, the increasing interest in West African foods and the recognition of their cultural significance are promising signs for the future.
