Ancient Egyptian clothing, from the end of the Neolithic period (prior to 3100 BC) to the collapse of the Ptolemaic Kingdom with the death of Cleopatra in 30 BC, is a vital aspect of understanding the history and culture of Egypt. Egyptian clothing was filled with a variety of colors, and adorned with precious gems and jewels. The fashions of the ancient Egyptians were made for not only beauty but also comfort, designed to maintain a cool body temperature in the sweltering desert climate.
Fashion in ancient Egypt encompasses the garments worn by the Egyptians from the conclusion of the Neolithic period (circa 3100 B.C.) until the fall of the Ptolemaic Kingdom with the demise of Queen Cleopatra around 30 B.C. Known for their intricate designs and symbolic meanings, these garments were more than mere clothing; they were an expression of status, identity, and beliefs.
Travelers interested in Egyptian history will find that ancient Egyptian clothes reveal much about the way of life during the time of the Pharaohs.
The costumes of ancient Egypt carry an immense weight in comprehending the social, cultural, and religious relations of one of the most complex civilizations in the world. Clothing played an essential role in the lives of the ancient Egyptians; it was not worn solely to cover the body.
Let's delve into the details of this iconic garment and other aspects of ancient Egyptian attire.
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Linen: The Fabric of Choice
The choice of linen wasn’t just practical but necessary for the hot desert climate. In ancient Egypt, one of the most popular and numerous textiles was the flax linen, which was predominantly cultivated along the banks of the Nile. The high temperatures in Egypt made it unavoidable to wear light and porous materials; hence, linen became the most appropriate material to use.
Linen emerged as the predominant fabric in Ancient Egyptian clothing, favored for its ability to provide relief from the subtropical heat. This fabric is derived from the flax plant, with its fibers spun from the plant's stem. The processes of spinning, weaving, and sewing were integral to Egyptian society. Plant dyes could be applied to textiles, but most garments were typically left in their natural hue.
The flax could be woven into a fine weave that kept the wearer cool, a must in the hot Saharan desert. Egyptian weavers were skilled at their craft.
While vegetable dyes could be applied to textiles, most garments were typically left in their natural hue. Although wool was recognized, it was deemed impure, and only the affluent could afford garments made from animal fibers, which were often subject to cultural taboos. Wool was occasionally utilized for women's outerwear but was prohibited in temples and sacred sites.
The fabric was often bleached to achieve a white color, which was considered pure and elegant. Wealthier individuals adorned their garments with intricate beadwork, embroidery, and even gold thread, showcasing their social status and wealth.
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Linen is so durable and the Egyptian climate is so wonderful for preservation that quite a lot of clothing from Ancient Egypt has been discovered. Sir William Flinders Petrie discovered the oldest surviving dress in the world in a First Dynasty tomb at Tarkhan. It is 5,000 years old! It is made of intricately pleated linen and gives some example of the fine workmanship of Egyptian weavers.
Ahhh, linen. It is beautiful, versatile, durable and luxurious. It is no wonder that the Ancient Egyptians, rich and poor alike, prized it above all other fabrics.
The hot climate of Egypt made lightweight clothing mandatory and linen offered the perfect solution.
Flax harvesting in Ancient Egypt
The Kalasiris: A Woman's Garment
Throughout the Old, Middle, and New Kingdom periods, ancient Egyptian women primarily wore a simple garment known as Kalasiris.
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The single most distinctive and important garment worn by women throughout the history of ancient Egypt was the kalasiris, a long linen dress. From the earliest depictions of women at the beginning of the Old Kingdom in around 2700 b.c.e. to those at the end of the New Kingdom in around 750 b.c.e., the kalasiris was the uniform of the Egyptian woman.
Ancient Egyptian clothing female was often more elaborate and detailed than the male counterparts. The real female ancient Egyptian clothing worn by women of higher status often included intricate beadwork and jewelry. These dresses, referred to as “kalasiris,” were designed to symbolize femininity, fertility, and elegance.
In its earliest form, the kalasiris was a very close-fitting tube dress, sewn at the side, that was held up by two straps that attached behind the neck. The straps came together at the front and the breasts were exposed. Other versions of the dress had a single strap that went over one shoulder but were still nearly formfitting.
Women's attire in ancient Egypt was generally more modest compared to that of men, with dresses typically secured by one or two straps and reaching the ankle. The upper portion of the dress could be adjusted to sit at the bust, and the length of the garment often signified the wearer's social status. Women adorned their dresses with beads or feathers for decorative purposes and often opted for shawls, capes, or robes.
The major change with the kalasiris was that the top of the dress was extended further up the women's torso to cover her breasts.
The typical kalasiris was white; however, depictions found in hieroglyphs, pictures of Egyptian life that have been preserved in tombs and on other relics that have survived to modern day, reveal that women often dyed their kalasirises in bright colors and, especially during the New Kingdom (c. 1500-c. 750), covered them with detailed patterns.
Wealthy women wore kalasirises of finely woven fabric, some so thin that the dresses became transparent. When the weather grew cool they might throw a shawl over the top of their dress.
Kalasis typically extended down the leg to between mid-calf and ankle length.
Interestingly, no actual examples of the kalasiris have ever been found. The depictions of the dress, however, indicate that they were made from linen, a fine-textured fabric made from the fibers of the flax plant.
Egyptian women's garments underwent fewer changes over time than the clothes men wore.
The goddess Anouke & Ramses II (Talmis - nineteenth dynasty.)
Until the Eighteenth Dynasty (New Kingdom), most Egyptian women wore the kalasiris, a simple linen sheath that usually fell from below the breasts to just above the ankles. It could be held up by shoulder straps or sleeves.
The kalasiris is traditionally depicted in paintings as a very tight, form fitting garment, but some dispute has been raised about how accurate those depictions are. According to some archaeologists, in reality, the kalasiris was probably more loose and flowing. This not only would have allowed for greater ease of movement but would have kept Egyptian women cooler in the hot climate.
Others say that there is no reason to assume the paintings are inaccurate and that the kalasiris was probably as tight fitting and quite possibly as sheer as the tomb paintings illustrate. Surviving pieces show the kalasiris was essentially a length of linen sewn down one side to create a tube. A shawl could be worn to protect the skin from the sun or on cooler winter nights for warmth.
Ancient Egyptian kalasiris
Men's Attire: The Shendyt
In contrast, Ancient Egyptian men’s clothing was typically more straightforward, with a primary focus on functionality.
From about 2130 BC during the Old Kingdom, garments were simply constructed. Men wore wrap around skirts belted at the waist.
Men typically wore skirts called Shendyt, which were secured at the waist and could be styled in various ways, including being folded or gathered at the front. These skirts were relatively short during this period.
In the subsequent Middle Kingdom era, around 1600 B.C., the length of the skirts increased. By approximately 1420 B.C., garments such as light jackets or long-sleeved blouses, along with longer dresses for women, became prevalent.
Working-class men were mostly found dressed in a simple loincloth or a knee-length coarser linen kilt.
The basic staple of men’s clothing was a linen kilt called a schenti. Much like the women’s kalasiris, the schenti kept the same basic shape for 3,000 years. The schenti was a rectangle of knee length linen cloth that wrapped around the waist and fastened in the front by overlapping and tucking the ends.
Like women’s garments, paintings depict more elaborate men’s dress during the New Kingdom. This new costume consisted of a pleated schenti and a long, sheer, pleated robe. Another option was made up of the schenti, a transparent overskirt and a collarless shirt with wide, pleated sleeves.
Pharaohs and Royalty
Perhaps the most iconic aspect of ancient Egyptian clothing is the attire of the Pharaohs. Ancient Egyptian pharaoh clothing often featured elaborate headdresses, including the famous “nemes” striped head cloth, which became a signature look for rulers like Tutankhamun and Ramses.
One of the most popular items of clothing worn by the pharaoh was the'shendyt’, a tailored pleated skirt that was extended with both gold and gem decorations. It was held in place by a decorative sash and, at times, was worn with a beautifully crafted robe or jacket for events.
Pharaohs also had a piece of headgear that was almost a statue of a king, called the ‘names’, which is a striped fabric wrapped around the head and tied at the back. All three, together with the false beard, the headdress of a king, and crowns with either the white or red crown of Egypt or the double crowns of Egypt-a sign of authority and power, only that it was royal power.
They wore clothes similar to those of the pharaoh but not as ostentatious. Richer men and women wore complex necklaces that included gold and colored stones.
Slaves and Commoners
At the other end of the spectrum, Ancient Egyptian slave clothing was far less elaborate. Unlike the wealthy elite, slaves did not have access to luxurious materials or intricate designs. Ancient Egyptian clothing for slaves was practical, reflecting their hard labor and lower status.
Individuals of lower social standing, including workers and peasants, consistently donned Shinta, a garment crafted from linen, which was common among the populace. Slaves frequently labored without clothing.
On the other hand, male ancient Egyptian clothing was more utilitarian, often designed to allow freedom of movement for labor or warfare.
Tomb paintings depict laborers wearing minimal clothing or working nude in harsh environments like construction sites and quarries.
Children's Clothing
Children’s clothing in ancient Egypt varied depending on age, social status, and climate.
For the most part, infants in ancient Egypt typically wore no clothing at all. The warm climate allowed children, especially infants and toddlers, to remain naked until they were older.
Boys would typically wear a loincloth made from linen, similar to adult men. Linen, made from the flax plant, was the most common fabric due to its lightness and suitability for the climate.
Girls typically wore simple linen dresses or shifts, much like adult women.
Children wore no clothing until 6 years old. Once they turned six they were allowed to wear clothing to protect them from the dry heat.
A popular hairstyle among children was the side-lock, an unshaved length of hair on the right side of the head.
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