Black hair is beautiful, elegant, and a proud symbol deeply rooted in Black culture. It's more than just appearance; it carries a uniquely meaningful history as a symbol of survival, resistance, and celebration. Black hair is not easy to define as Black hair comes in different shapes, styles and sizes.
One symbol of Africa’s rich cultural heritage is the traditional African hairstyles. It distinguishes one culture from one another. In ancient African societies, the hairstyle was a significant element. It symbolizes status-economic, marital, and social. Today, many of those traditional African hairstyles have crossed the Atlantic into the western world. While some are almost extinct, many remain peculiar to their origins. Oftentimes, they even help to identify individuals belonging to certain ethnic groups.
So, if you wanted to ask ‘why is hair so important to Black culture, you know the answer now. Another interesting fact about African hair is that it is unique to the continent. Since the beginning of African civilizations, hairstyles have been used to convey messages to a greater society.
Before boundaries divided Africa into states and countries through colonization, the continent was divided into kingdoms and clans. It was believed that hair acted as a means of communicating with gods and spirits that passed through the hair to a person’s soul. Hair was also viewed as containing the person’s spirit and could be powerful enough to be used to cast spells, offer protection, add potency to medicine, or summon a mate.
The Cultural Significance of Hair in Pre-Colonial Africa
In pre-colonial African societies, Black hair was seen as a symbol of a person’s identity. Hair was a significant symbolic tool which was utilised to communicate different messages and meanings about peoples’ social status, heritage, culture, religion and many other aspects of African societies. In ancient Africa, hair was a significant symbolic tool which was utilised to communicate different messages and meanings about peoples’ social status, heritage, culture, religion and many other aspects of African societies.
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Within these kingdoms and clans, different hairstyles could "indicate a person's marital status, age, religion, ethnic identity, wealth, rank," surname, health status, geographic origin and the clan to which they belonged. Leaders of a community, both men and women, wore the most ornate styles.
Varied tribal groups used hair to show social hierarchy as early as the fifteenth-century. According to Mark Gordon, in ancient Africa “men of some tribes used to cut their hair only for the mourning for a death of a close relative which meant that a mourner’s spirit was desolated by the loss of a loved one. When they cut their hair… they had to dispose of it in a ceremonious way… they put their hair that was cut off in a river. Since they are a part of the earth they always put themselves back into the earth”.
Examples of Traditional Hairstyles and Their Meanings
- A Wolof man's braided beard could indicate that he was preparing for war.
- In the Himba tribe, dreadlocks worn down in front of a female's face was a sign that she was going through puberty, while dreadlocks tied at the back of the head were worn by women seeking marriage.
- Erembe headdresses signified new mothers and married women.
- In Yoruba culture, people braided their hair to send messages to the gods.
Hair maintenance in traditional Africa was a time-consuming process that aimed at creating a sense of beauty and honoring its spiritual power.
Let's explore a list of prominent traditional African hairstyles, presenting their historical background, and present-day appeal.
- Amasunzu: Dating back over 500 years among the Tutsi and Hutu people of Rwanda, this style was worn by people of all social and marital statuses. Warriors wore it to signify strength and bravery, while single young girls wore it as a symbol of their virginity.
- Bantu Knots: Originating among the Zulu people of Southern Africa, women have worn this hairstyle as a symbol of femininity and status. The hair is divided into sections, twisted, and then wrapped to form spiral knots.
- Fulani Braids: Indigenous to the Fulani people of West Africa, this hairstyle involves parting the hair in the middle (and side) and braiding it into tiny cornrows, often adorned with hair accessories such as rings and beads.
- African Thread: Common all over the continent, this style involves using threads for braiding hair and is known by diverse names among different African tribes. It is a natural hair straightener and a protective style featuring many sectioned parts of the hair wrapped in threads.
- Zulu Topknots: Tracing its origin to the Zulu people of southern Africa, women in these communities used the style as a status symbol, with only members of the ruling class wearing them.
- Hamar Dreadlocks: A cultural symbol of the Hamar tribe of Ethiopia, women create their dreadlocks by binding resin with water, sectioning their hair, and using the mixture to style the hair into locks.
- Himba Dreadlocks: For the Himbas, dreadlocks symbolize age and life. Stylists use a mixture of butter, ochre, and goat hair to create the locks, along with hair extensions and ornamental accessories for beautification.
- Edamburu (Braided Crown): Native to the Mangbetu people of Congo, this hairstyle involves intricately weaving thin braids into a crown.
- Ngala: Native to the Igbo people of Nigeria, Ngala is a symbol of pride and elegance for women, typically worn on special traditional festivals, traditional marriages, and coronations.
- Sahrawi Cornrows: Indigenous to the Sahrawi people of North Africa, these cornrows are worn in the typical Sahelian form, with two sections running through the middle, often leveraging hair extensions to form two smaller braids that run down to the arms.
The first thing that you will likely notice about the texture of African hair is that they are hard. This is particularly true for Africans native to Western, Eastern, Central, and Southern Africa. This oil keeps the hair hydrated and protects it from excessive exposure to harmful rays of the sun. Unfortunately, due to tight curls, the oils don’t circulate evenly along the hair fiber. Well, that is one of the reasons why traditional African hairstyles are important. For example, the traditional African hairstyles of the Himba people are coated with goat hair, butter, and red ochre mixture.
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Braid was one of the predominant traditional African hairstyles in the past. Different tribes had a peculiar way they braided their hairs as you will see shortly. Interestingly, the way you braid your hair could tell people a lot about you in traditional African societies.By simply looking at the pattern of your braid in the past, someone could tell your tribe or marital status. Someone could even tell if you were a virgin or not simply by looking at your hair. Weird, right? That made braiding a form of social art.
Cornrows were used as an escape map from slavery across South America
How Braids Became a Secret Map for Escaping Slavery
The Impact of the Transatlantic Slave Trade
During the Transatlantic slave trade, slave owners forcibly transported people from West Africa to colonies in modern-day Brazil and throughout the Americas, some African women, namely rice farmers, braided rice seeds into their hair as a means for survival of themselves and the culture of their homeland. Enslaved Africans also used cornrows to transfer and create maps to leave plantations and the home of their captors.
Hair played an important role in the institution of slavery in the United States. Its removal was used by European captors to signal loss of freedom and individuality. Beginning in the 1400s, European slave traders moved Africans from West Africa to the New Worlds. Slave traders shaved the heads of their captives to humiliate and demoralize. To shave a head can be interpreted as taking someone’s identity, so this was considered an unspeakable crime. Masters often divided the enslaved according to hair type and skin color.
Before transporting them, captors and traders shaved the heads of all African adults and children taken captive. The claimed purpose for this action was to prepare for the unsanitary conditions of the slave ships. Due to the cultural and spiritual importance of hair for Africans, the practice of having their heads involuntarily shaved before being sold as enslaved people was in itself a dehumanizing act.
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The shaved head was the first step the Europeans took to erase the slaves’ culture and alter the relationship between the African and his or her hair... [it] stripped them of a lifeline to their home and a connection to their people. ...some slaves wore their hair long and bushy on top and ...others cut it short, or combed and parted it neatly, or shaved it at the back or at the front, or trimmed it to a roll. Plaits, braids and cornrows were the most convenient hairstyles to keep their hair neat and maintained for a week.
Enslaved people who worked indoors were forced to wear their hair in one of those styles or a style similar to that of their slaveowner if they did not cover their hair with a scarf, kerchief or wig. By the early 19th century, Sunday was legally declared a day of rest and religious observation, and on Sundays, enslaved people braided each other's hair using the grease or oil they had available, such as butter or goose grease. They used wool carding tools to detangle their hair, kerosene, and cornmeal to cleanse the scalp.
Tanekeya Word uses hair styling to consider what it means to be a Black girl. In each rendition of her mixed media series, Word crafts a universe centered around the Fulani braid hairstyle, which come from the Fula, Fulani, or Fulɓe people of the Sahel region.
Racism, Cultural Appropriation, and the Evolution of Black Hair Styles
For a long period of time Black hair has been condemned rather than celebrated. Slave owners would shave off Black people’s hair, in an attempt to erase their identities. In the 1950s, it wasn’t uncommon to meet a Black woman with chemically-straightened hair in the United States and Britain, as this was what was socially-acceptable at the time. Black hair was not celebrated and it was seen as ‘easier’ to maintain than natural hair.
Black hair is beautiful and bold. Black Hair Styles continue to evolve. Admired hairstyles such as braids, dreadlocks, cornrows and bantu knots didn’t just appear from nowhere, in fact these hairstyles date back to our African ancestors. Dreadlocks have a long history in Africa. The origin of braids can be traced back 5000 years in African culture to 3500 BC-they were very popular among women. Braids are not just a style; this craft is a form of art. The popular cornrow hairstyle which now comes in variations, dated as far back as 3000 B.C., particularly in the Horn and West coasts of Africa.
The Afro, which hit its stride in the 1960s, was an expression of pride, connection, power, revolution and differentiation. Trendy styles like braids were even adopted by whites, especially after white actress Bo Derek wore them in the movie 10.
As mentioned previously, Black hair can be associated with many negative connotations deep rooted in racism and westernised oppression. However it is ironic how Black hairstyles have been stolen and culturally appropriated; we now see cornrows, braids and other hairstyles worn by caucasion celebrities. Many may argue it is ‘just a hairstyle’ or make the ridiculous comparison of Black women wearing weaves and wigs. Black people use extensions, weaves and wigs as protective hairstyles. Non-Black people sport Black hairstyles because it is a current trend, they don’t understand the history or the significance of Black hair.
Fulani Braids is not just a ‘hairstyle, Fulani or feed-in braids originate from the Fulani (Fula) people in West Africa and the Sahel region. The large, nomadic community passed on the traditional hairstyle through generations of women.
Black men hairstyles are also a representation of self expression. Black men can have a range of different hairstyles from classic cut fade to coloured dreadlocks.
- Twists are a simple protective hairstyle worn by Black men.
- The classic low cut fade, achieved with great skill and precision.
- Dreadlocks also known as ‘dreads’ or locs is a staple Black man hairstyle. Made popular by the Jamaican Reggae artists, the hairstyle is also widely worn by many Black rappers, athletes and socialites in the US & UK.
A curly hightop is a haircut which is cut low on both sides of the hair and curly hair is left in the centre of the head. This hairstyle dates back to the 80s when Jheri Curls were popular in the black community. To achieve this look you can use your natural curls, a curly/jheri perm or a special sponge found in local hair shops.
Black men’s hair can also fall victim to cultural appropriation. We often see non-Black people with cainrows, locs and even fake afro hightops.
Racist oppression led Black people to believe their hair is ‘bad’, whilst ‘good’ hair is slinky, smooth, straight. In other words, caucasian!
Hair Types
Hair Texture Types for Black People
Type 3 and 4 are the usual hair texture types for Black people. Black people who have Type 3 hair has S shaped bouncy curls that are well defined, dry and slightly rough. As Black hair is very complex, Type 3 and Type 4 hair have their own subtypes ; 3a, 3b and 3c.
- 3a curls are springy and have a definite S shape. This hair type can be straightened easily and is normally shiny and not too dry.
- 3b hair ranges from springy ringlets to tightly wounded and convoluted corkscrews. It has a lot of frizz that can be reduced by regular oiling using olive or coconut oil.
- Lastly, 3c hair is best described by wiry, coarse and frizzy corkscrews that are quite hard to untangle and sometimes difficult to straighten.
Type 4 hair is generally known as kinky hair which again can be categorised into three subtypes: 4a, 4b and 4c.
- 4a hair is extremely coiled and shows an S-shaped pattern. This hair type can range from being wiry and frizzy to smooth and fine-textured.
- The 4b hair type displays a Z-shaped pattern. This hair type has tightly wounded corkscrews that are short, springy, and quite coarse too. They have lesser moisture compared to type 4a.
Type 4 hair is also referred to as kinky, or coarse hair and is characterised by its tight, dense texture and natural lift. The volume that comes with type 4 hair is caused by its unique curl pattern.
Hair Discrimination and the Natural Hair Movement
Black hair was not celebrated and it was seen as ‘easier’ to maintain than natural hair. Racist oppression led Black people to believe their hair is ‘bad’, whilst ‘good’ hair is slinky, smooth, straight. In other words, caucasian!
During the Mau Mau Rebellion - which occurred during the period of 1952 to 1960 as riot against colonial rule in Kenya and immensely contributed to Kenya’s independence - some African men and women were said to have rebelled by growing their hair, an act that was dreaded by the colonial authorities, to a point where anyone who had dreadlocks may have been attacked and even killed. As a result, some people now believe that the name “dreadlocks” originated from this rebellion by some African groups which colonists “dreaded”. This created a stigma around dreadlocks, meaning some African parents began to associate dreadlocks with criminal activities.
As a result of this history, Africans have for years been trained and informed to despise their hair because it differs from that of other ethnic groups. The message is frequently shared (overtly or covertly) that natural hairstyles are seen as ancient and unprofessional in the modern world, forcing women to straighten their hair to fit into European standards of beauty and professionalism.
In her article “Visual Representations of Black Hair in Relaxer Advertisements,” Khulekani Madlel analysed the political and degrading elements embodied by visual media adverts about the unpleasant natural state of Black hair which were represented in a South African magazine, True Love1. Such media representations of black hair aimed to persuade black women to conform to using products that made their hair more “manageable” and “acceptable” in the modern world, highlighting the underlying racially discriminatory elements in South Africa and Africa at large. This has perpetuated double standards, cultural imperialism, and ignorance among many people in terms of understanding the history of hairstyles.
African-American culture has increasingly embraced natural hair through the natural hair movement. It includes people with afro-textured hair who resist the images used to represent them and abstain from the use of chemical hair products in favor of products that will promote healthy natural hair.
In her song Don’t Touch My Hair, Solange Knowles declares “Don’t touch my crown, don’t touch my pride”. These lyrics draw upon and reiterate the perspective that African hair is extremely important to the identity and heritage of Blacks in Africa, and recognises that this has historically been abused, offering a strong rejection and stand against such abuse.
As white colonial rule often involved dehumanising Africans, many within Africa felt that British colonists capitalised on the fact that hair held significant meaning in ancient Africa, and was highly valued by different African groups.
Throughout the history of education in the United States, African American students have faced significant disparities in treatment compared to their peers. These disparities include higher rates of disciplinary action and discriminatory practices related to personal appearance.
DeAndre Arnold, a senior at Barbers Hill High School in Texas, faced suspension and threats of expulsion due to his dreadlocks. The school's dress code prohibited hairstyles that "disrupt the educational process," which was interpreted to include dreadlocks. Despite Arnold's good academic standing and involvement in sports, the school's policy enforced a strict standard that was perceived as targeting his natural hairstyle.
Asten Johnson faced threats of expulsion due to his natural hairstyle, which was in violation of the school's dress code that prohibited "unconventional" hairstyles. Johnson's hair was described as "unprofessional," a label that was frequently applied to natural hairstyles worn by African American students.
Darryl George, a high school student in Texas, faced disciplinary actions for wearing his natural curly hair, which was deemed "inappropriate" according to the school's dress code. The policy was particularly restrictive towards hairstyles that deviated from a certain norm, which disproportionately affected African American students.
Caring for Afro-Caribbean Hair
Afro-Caribbean hair is delicate and tends to be very dry. As a result, special care needs to be taken to ensure its health and vitality.
- Have knowledge on what products work best for your hair type. It may be a lot of trial and error at first, so speaking to a professional is advised
- Moisturise and massage your scalp with hair oils daily. Research which oils do what.
- Wash days can be exhausting however, deep conditioning will give your hair a real boost of moisture and feed the strands from the inside out. Use sulphate free shampoos to avoid hair and scalp getting dry
- Protect your hairstyles with a silk scarf of a silk bonnet before bed (or if you’re a rough sleeper, invest in silk pillow cases)
- Lastly, have fun with your hair! Don’t be afraid to experiment with it. Your hair is your crown, be proud of it!
