The African Bush Viper, scientifically known as Atheris squamigera, is a venomous snake native to Central Africa. Also known as the common bush viper and the green bush viper, is an arboreal venomous snake. Bush vipers are commonly found in the forests and are arboreal meaning they live in the trees. These snakes are admired for their unique appearance and variable colors, making them popular among experienced reptile keepers. However, due to their venomous nature, keeping them requires advanced knowledge, proper safety measures, and a deep understanding of their specific needs. It is important to note that only certified experts should keep them.
This care sheet provides detailed information on how to properly care for the Variable Bush Viper (Atheris squamigera) and the West African Bush Viper (Atheris chlorechis), the most commonly available species. These guidelines can be applied to most other bush vipers due to their similar requirements.
Atheris squamigera
Basic Information
- Scientific Name: Atheris squamigera (Variable Bush Viper), Atheris chlorechis (West African Bush Viper)
- Native Range: Central Africa
- Adult Size: 16 to 29 inches (males typically smaller)
- Lifespan: Can live for many years with proper care
- Appearance: Broad, flat heads distinct from the neck, wide gape, heavily keeled scales giving a "hairy" appearance. Colors vary widely, including greens, reds, oranges, yellows, blues, blacks, and purples.
Enclosure
As with any venomous animal, caging is a very important aspect of their husbandry both to create the proper environment for the snake and most importantly, SAFETY.
Safety First:
- The enclosure must be in a locked, escape-proof room with limited vents and a way to block the door.
- Always have instructions for bite protocols and emergency contact information readily available.
- Never work with your animal if you aren’t feeling well, distracted, depressed, or when your minds not interrupt place don’t don’t work with your animal and wait it out.
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Cage Requirements:
- Solid-bodied with lockable sliding glass doors that open from the front.
- Minimal ventilation to maintain heat and humidity.
- Screen lids are not recommended due to humidity loss and bite risk.
Size:
- For single animals or pairs, 0.6 meters (2 foot) cubes are acceptable.
- For larger groups, 0.9 x 0.9 x 0.6 meters (3 x 3 x 2 feet) is a good recommended start.
- Neonates can be kept in smaller enclosures or modified racks for safety.
Décor:
- Sturdy branches for climbing and perching. This species spends a lot of time perched up in branches and foliage. It is important that you offer lots of sturdy branches for climbing and perching.
- Plenty of foliage (fake or live plants, vines) for security. The more cover they have, the more secure and less stressed your Atheris will be.
- Ground hides like flat pieces of cork bark should be added. For an arboreal species, Atheris squamigera does spend quite a bit of time on the ground.
How to Make a Bioactive Enclosure! Beginner Guide!
Substrate
In my opinion, substrate is a very important aspect of proper husbandry.
Type:
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- A deep, natural substrate is ideal for creating a humidity gradient.
- Mix coco fiber with sand and topsoil to a depth of 0.12-0.15 meters (0.4-0.5 feet). This mix can hold lots of humidity without being saturated with water.
- Top with a layer of leaf litter.
Bio-Activity:
- Consider a bio-active substrate with isopods, wood lice, and springtails.
- This eliminates the need for frequent cleaning and promotes a healthier environment.
- Bio-active substrates help control fecal matter, fungal growth, and parasites.
Bioactive terrarium
Temperature and Lighting
Offering a couple of basking spot that go above 32 °C (90 °F) will NOT cook your squam no matter how many people believe this silly myth. The ambient temperatures in their natural range go above 32 °C (90 °F) for days and even weeks on end.
- UVB Lighting: Offer low levels of UVB for 6 hours a day.
- Heat Lighting: Use heat lights for 12 hours a day.
- Night: Shut off all lighting at night.
- Temperature Gradient: Provide a wide temperature gradient.
- Basking Spot: Offer basking spots above 32 °C (90 °F).
- Ambient Temperature: Maintain cooler ambient temperatures around 25-27 °C (78-80 °F).
Humidity
They do very well when they have a good amount of humidity in the air.
- Maintain an average humidity between 70% and 80%.
- Achieve this by spraying the cage with water or using a deep, natural substrate.
Feeding
A. squamigeras natural diet consists of a range prey from frogs and small lizards to birds and small mammals.
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- Diet: Bush vipers prey on amphibians, lizards, rodents, and sometimes snails, slugs, insects, birds, and other snakes.
- Adults: Small adult mice, frogs, and lizards.
- Neonates: May require small bits of pinky mice or tease feeding with food items.
- Frequency: Feed adults every 7 to 10 days.
- Caution: Always feed with long tweezers or hemostats (at least the length of the snake) to avoid accidents.
Feeding Bush Viper
Water
Large bowls of fresh clean water should be offered at all times.
- Provide a large bowl of fresh, clean water on the ground.
- Ensure the snake can easily access the water source.
Handling and Safety
Just like with any venomous snake, great caution should be taken when handling this species. Handling should only be done with the use of hooks and other tools made specifically for the safe handling of venomous snakes.
Tools:
- Use tools like snake hooks (24-36 inch for bush vipers).
- Avoid grab sticks unless absolutely necessary.
- Trap boxes can be used but are not commonly needed for bush vipers.
Precautions:
- Never get careless, even with seemingly docile snakes.
- Be especially cautious during feeding.
Health and Maintenance
If you are not using bio-active substrates, regular spot cleaning should be done whenever the cage is soiled.
- Shedding: Proper husbandry will ensure successful shedding.
- Parasites: Wild-caught specimens often have high parasite loads.
- Veterinary Care: Consult a reptile veterinarian for parasite treatment or other health issues.
Bite Protocol
It’s highly recommended for every venomous species that you keep or interested to keep to have the bite protocol.
- Each species has a dedicated bite protocol that includes general information regarding the species, information about their venom and signs and symptoms of envenomation if bitten.
- It also includes a detailed information about first aid (what to do and what not to do), specific treatment recommendations for medical personnel to provide appropriate care including information about the antivenom or antivenoms required for treatment.
- Emergency: Always have a detailed bite protocol, including information on antivenin availability and emergency contacts.
- First Aid: Call 911 immediately and keep the bitten area below heart level.
Breeding African Bush Vipers
A few general guidelines can be followed to better ensure successful breedings. Obviously, the first thing that you need to do is make sure that you have a pair.
I believe that breeding these two species is dependent on three conditions: temperature, humidity, and pressure. In the wild these snakes do not experience seasonal changes as seen in the US, but instead experience wet and dry seasons. They would normally breed at the onset of the wet season (October) when pressure changes occur, temperatures drop, and the humidity rises. By manipulating these conditions you can get these two species to breed when you want them to. I have had all copulations occur when the climate here in North Carolina is closest to mimicking a wet season: fall and spring. I keep the cages drier and warmer for our summer and wintertime, but open the windows in my snakeroom and mist the cages more often during the fall and spring. During these wetter, cooler periods is when breeding should occur.
Females will begin to feed ravenously in preparation of mating and when I am satisfied with a snake's health and size, I introduce a male into her cage. Introduction of the sexes usually takes place in May or in October. Temperatures should be in the mid 70's and I mist the cage once or twice daily. Courting pairs will spend considerable time together and may be witnessed sleeping on top of each other. Copulation with A. squamigera may occur more than once and may be witnessed by the observant keeper. Care must be taken, however, as the copulating pairs may be easily disturbed and upset.
Even if copulation is not witnessed, pairs should be separated after a few weeks. I have witnessed a gravid A. squamigera kill her mate and have heard of other similar experiences by other keepers. I have not witnessed any aggressive behavior between the sexes of A. chlorechis, but I prefer to keep it that way and I separate them anyway.
Availability and Legality
Availability: Bush vipers are frequently available at reptile expos and online venomous snake vendors.
Price: Prices range from $100 to $600 per snake.
Legality: Check state and local laws regarding venomous snake ownership before acquiring a bush viper. Some states require permits or prohibit them altogether.
Legality of Bush Vipers by State
Always check your state laws and your city laws to be sure your pet is legal. Never lie about it. If you have to get a permit than do so before you get a Bush viper not after
| Category | States |
|---|---|
| States that Ban Hots | Connecticut, Delaware, Hawaii, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Oregon, Tennessee |
| States with No Permit Needed and Legal | Arkansas, Nebraska, Maryland, New Mexico, Virginia, West Virginia, Wisconsin, Wyoming |
| States that Need a Permit | Pennsylvania, Vermont, South Carolina, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Washington, Alaska, Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Georgia, Indiana, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Montana, New York, North Carolina, North Dakota, Ohio, Oklahoma |
| Unknown | Mississippi |
By following this comprehensive care sheet, experienced keepers can provide a suitable and enriching environment for African Bush Vipers, ensuring their health and well-being while prioritizing safety.
