African dwarf frogs (Hymenochirus genus) are active little amphibians known for their peaceful nature and unique behavior. These unique and fascinating creatures have made their way into the common pet trade over the past 40 years.
African dwarf frogs were first discovered in rivers, streams, puddles, and shallow ponds in various regions throughout Central Africa in the late 19th century. They are members of the Hymenochirus genus of aquatic frog species and are easily confused in appearance with the other frog species in their group, the African clawed frogs.
Aquatic Life and Breathing
ADF’s are fully aquatic frogs that spend their entire life under water. They do not need, or use, land at any point in their life.
If they are fully aquatic, how do they breathe? They breathe much like a betta or other anabantoids - except they cannot take any air in directly from the water. If you watch a frog for a few minutes, you will see that they come up to the surface very quickly and strike the water. This is them taking in a gulp of air (sometimes, they will let out little bubbles after they take a breath). Then, they will frantically swim back down to the bottom - and they usually don’t care if anything is in their way! Rocks, plants, fish - doesn’t matter.
Distinguishing ADFs from Clawed Frogs
It is important not to confuse African Dwarf frogs with African Clawed frogs. Absolutely not! Clawed frogs get many, many times larger than African Dwarf frogs and will harm and/or eat even large fish, and will eat small fish.
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The fastest way to tell, assuming the frogs are very young, at which point Clawed frogs will be similar in size to ADF’s, is to look at their front feet. If they are webbed, they are African Dwarf frogs. If the front feet are not webbed, it is a clawed frog. Also, for the most part, there are no albino ADF’s. But my supposed ADF has claws! No. True ADF’s do have very small claws. They have three black claws on each of their hind feet.
Setting Up the Ideal Tank
The best set-ups will be between 5 gallons and 29 gallons. The reason for these numbers is that 5 gallons of water is much easier to maintain than a smaller amount. If one can be very conscientious about water quality and sustaining consistent water parameters, a tank of 2.5 gallons would be acceptable for a frog or two. Tanks that are larger than 29 gallons can make finding your frog difficult since they do like to hide out, and because of ADF’s eating habits, they can be difficult to feed in larger tanks.
Frogs, just like fish, are sensitive to ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. Therefore, these frogs require a filter. Any filter that is acceptable for fish is acceptable for the frogs. However, there are a few things to keep in mind when selecting the filter:
- Frogs are not very strong and can easily be sucked up against a very over-powered filter.
- Small/weak frogs are especially susceptible to this happening and it is advisable to ensure that the filter intake is covered - their arms and legs can get caught inside and broken.
ADF’s are very sensitive to noise and they don’t have ears. They use the lateral lines on their bodies to sense vibrations. Large filters can induce stress and sickness. These frogs also prefer motionless water, so make sure the filters don’t cause strong water currents in the aquarium. An under-gravel filter is recommended. Always check with an aquarium specialist online or in store if you are uncertain.
Frogs also require a heater. African Dwarf frogs can be a little shy and require a few hiding spaces. Caves made from smooth, aquarium-safe rocks make ideal hiding places. They also appreciate plants to hide/rest in. If you are setting up a Frog-Only tank, you may want to consider using a smooth sand substrate. These frogs really like to dig around looking for food or making a little hole to sit in. Sand is also very gentle on their skin since they are almost always in contact with the substrate.
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But no matter what type of tank you use, it ABSOLUTELY MUST BE COVERED. Use duct tape if necessary to eliminate any and all gaps near filters. ADF’s are notorious jumpers and will sometimes fly out of the water when striking the surface for air.
Social Behavior and Tankmates
Keeping more than 1 frog in a tank is perfectly acceptable. In fact, it can be a lot of fun to watch several frogs interacting with each other. They are very peaceful towards one another and may even sleep piled on top of each other! As far as how many can be kept together, that depends on tank size.
Yes, although it naturally depends on the fish. Just as some fish do not get along together, some fish are not a good combination with African Dwarf frogs. Tankmates that would not be suitable are fish that are nippy (Tiger Barbs), are aggressive and/or have large mouths (most cichlids and any large fish that is capable of consuming a small frog), or stake out their own territory on the substrate (loaches/catfish).
HOWEVER: Problems can/do arise when ADF’s are kept with fish. The biggest problem is that the fish will try to consume all of the food before the frog can eat - which will eventually starve the frog.
Well, that all depends. Normally, African Dwarf frogs make excellent tankmates for Bettas. Mostly, the deciding factor in this situation is the temperament of the Betta the frogs will be housed with. Some bettas will not tolerate anything else with them and will nip and bite the frog. Sometimes, people will say that their ADF’s are vicious and attack their betta’s fins. But! - this is usually a case of mistaken identity that may be easily remedied. It is relatively safe to assume that the frog saw the betta’s colorful, flowing tail and thought “Mmmm. Dinner,” and tried to take a nibble. It is generally a very innocent mistake - a mistake that occurs mostly because frogs have poor eyesight. This may also be an indication of a hungry frog.
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When housing African dwarf frogs with their tankmates, be sure that the aquarium is not overcrowded and there is enough swimming space for them to thrive peacefully. Adequate space will help maintain a stress-free living environment. Although these tankmates are the most compatible with African dwarf frogs, Betta fish can become aggressive and territorial if they lack swimming space and feel threated by their tankmates. Always check with an aquatic specialist online or in store if you are uncertain.
Feeding Habits
Because the frogs spend most of their time at the bottom of the tank, foods that float are a very poor choice for frogs. Sinking foods, such as Shrimp Pellets, can be used, but they carry some problems. Because frogs cannot see very well, they must use their sense of smell to detect food. Much of the time, the pellets may dissolve into the water before the frogs find them (Foods that remain uneaten and foul up the water are one of the reasons some people mistakenly believe frogs to be messy. In reality, it’s the method that is being used to feed them that is dirty!).
One method that works well for both the frog and the owner is to use either a small turkey baster-like apparatus (or even the little things that come with test kits to suck water out of the tank and into the test tube), or a pair of long tweezers (For example: Tweezers like these) . Then, use Frozen Bloodworms. Thaw the worms in a small cup. When thawed, grab a couple using either the tweezers or the turkey-baster and dangle them in front of your frog. They will strike quickly and will swallow them whole.
A good way to judge how much you should feed your frogs is to look at their tummies. If the stomach is flat, it is time to be fed. If the stomach is round, it is safe to wait until the stomach is flat. Fairly easy. If, for whatever reason, this is difficult to determine, feed every other day.
An African dwarf frog’s diet should contain a high protein and well-balanced selection of food consisting of specialized aquatic frog sinking pellets, freeze dried bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, and live blackworms. African dwarf frogs have poor vision and rely on their sense of smell and touch to eat. They can be fed off a ceramic terra cotta plate inside the aquarium, or hand fed from a pair of tweezers. Since their vision is very poor, their food should be dropped in front of them so they can use their senses to find it quicker. It is best to feed them in the evening as this is when they hunt for food in their native habitats. Their stomachs are tiny, so feeding them once a day or every other day is best for their digestion. Any leftover food in the aquarium should be scooped out as soon as possible to prevent the water from getting dirty.
When selecting food, be sure to read the labels on the containers prior to purchasing them. They should be aquatic frog specific and contain at least 40-50 percent protein.
Breeding African Dwarf Frogs
Surprise Eggs from African Dwarf Frogs! Part 1/5: Days 1-8
There’s nothing more rewarding than raising a clutch of tadpoles and watching them thrive. Like most amphibians, African dwarf frogs are egg-layers. Similar to many fish, however, the eggs are externally fertilized by the male frog as they’re released by the female.
- Preparing for mating: When both the male and female frog are ready to mate, the male will “sing” to attract the female.
- Mating (amplexus): The mating process begins when the male grasps the female frog from behind, just in front of her back legs.
- Egg laying and fertilization: When the female is ready, she’ll swim to the surface (bringing the male along with her) to release her eggs. As the eggs are released, the male releases his sperm to fertilize them.
- After spawning: Once spawning is complete, the male African dwarf frog will release his hold on the female.
As long as conditions in the breeding tank are suitable, your African dwarf frog eggs should hatch after about 48-72 hours. The ideal breeding tank temperature is 78°F. When the eggs hatch, the young will be in the form of tiny tadpoles.
Your tadpoles will feed primarily on infusoria when they first hatch, though you can supplement their diet with liquid fry food. It takes about 6-8 weeks for African dwarf frog tadpoles to develop into froglets. At this point, it’s a good idea to slightly lower the water level in the tank to give the froglets easy access to the surface for breathing while their swimming skills continue to develop.
The key to successfully breeding African dwarf frogs is to condition your breeding stock well. You’ll need at least one male and one female frog, both having reached sexual maturity. Set up a separate breeding tank. Try to replicate rainy season conditions.
If your African dwarf frogs aren’t readily mating, you can try simulating the rainy season in their natural habitat. Gradually reduce the water level in the tank over a few days, then refill it with slightly cooler water. Keep the water temperature in the proper range. The best temperature range to stimulate breeding behavior in African dwarf frogs is between 78°F and 82°F.
Feed your frogs a nutritious diet. African dwarf frogs tend not to be picky, but it’s important to choose nutritious foods if you want them to be in good breeding condition. Proper feeding African dwarf frogs means focusing on high-protein live and frozen foods introduced a few weeks before you try to stimulate spawning.
Watch for mating behavior. As you’re conditioning your African dwarf frogs and taking steps to simulate the rainy season, keep an eye out for courting behavior. You’ll know your frogs are ready to mate when the male initiates amplexus.
Maintaining a Healthy Environment
As with all herps, maintaining a proper living environment for your African dwarf frog is key to preventing stress, disease and a shortened life. Maintain water temperatures between 72-78 degrees Fahrenheit. The water should be similar temperatures to the African dwarf frog’s native habitat in Africa. Maintain PH levels between 6.5 - 7.8.
Use large aquarium gravel to cover the bottom of the tank. Gravel comes in different sizes and colors. If the grains are too small, the frogs can accidentally consume it and have a difficult time digesting it. This could lead to impaction and can be fatal. Sand is another option for substrate. It is recommended that a substrate be used in any aquarium, but some African dwarf frog keepers opt out of using substrate in fear of their frogs consuming it.
Always secure the aquarium with a lid. African dwarf frogs spend their whole lives underwater and are not capable of surviving on dry land for more than 15-20 minutes. If they escape, their skin will dry out and they will not survive. Be mindful that African dwarf frogs require oxygen at the water’s surface, so it is best to use a screen lid.
Provide 10-12 hours of aquarium lighting daily. African dwarf frogs are nocturnal and require a regular day and night cycle. They don’t need UVB lighting like many reptile and amphibian species do. A basic LED hood light is sufficient. Avoid placing the aquarium in a room without windows. Use filtered water in the aquarium. Raw water contains harmful chemicals such as chloramine and fluoride that can be toxic to all aquatic species. If you use tap water, be sure to treat it with anti-bacterial supplements and water conditioners prior to placing the African dwarf frog back in.
Avoid the use of soap to clean the aquariums. Perform water changes bi-weekly. It is best to change at least 10-25% of the water every 2-4 weeks. If a filter is not being used, then it is best to change the water at least once a week. Frogs shed and can be messy eaters. Avoid performing full water changes. Avoid aquarium décor that is sharp and toxic.
African dwarf frogs are hunted in the wild and require places where they can hide out in such as caves or logs. African dwarf frogs do well with artificial or real plants, but plants with sharp edges can tear at the frog’s skin. Some wood décor can contain harmful toxins that increase PH levels in the water.
Recognizing Normal and Abnormal Behavior
With proper care, African dwarf frogs can live between five and 10 years in captivity. African dwarf frogs can be seen floating around at the top of the water periodically with their arms and legs stretched out. Rest assure that this is just their way of being lazy and is perfectly normal behavior. This is called, the Zen Position.
African dwarf frogs typically shed their skin two to three times a month. Before they shed their skin, their bodies will appear whitish.
African dwarf frogs shed their skin for various reasons. The main reason is because of their natural growing process. If you see them eating their shed afterwards, this just means that they are consuming the leftover nutrients they lost during the shed. It is perfectly normal, so the shed can be left in the tank.
They can shed for unhealthy reasons also, which could be due to fungal infections, poor water quality or drastic changes to water parameters. If they are shedding more than a few times a month, there could be a water quality issue going on. Healthy shed should appear white and come off almost entirely in one piece. Unhealthy shed will appear discolored and come off in little flakes. Sometimes the frogs will struggle to get the unhealthy shed off. Another sign of unhealthy shedding is if the frog’s skin doesn’t return to its natural dark shade once the shed comes off.
Health and Safety
African dwarf frogs can carry diseases on their bodies such as Salmonella, which can be transmitted to humans if they are handled in an unsafe manner. Although they are very friendly and make great pets, children especially should be supervised while interacting with African dwarf frogs.
Quick Guide to African Dwarf Frog Care
| Aspect | Details |
|---|---|
| Tank Size | 5-29 gallons recommended |
| Water Temperature | 72-78°F |
| pH Levels | 6.5-7.8 |
| Filtration | Gentle filter, under-gravel recommended |
| Diet | High protein, sinking pellets, frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp |
| Feeding Frequency | Once a day or every other day |
| Tank Mates | Peaceful fish, avoid aggressive species |
| Life Span | 5-10 years |
