Coffee Production in East Africa: A Journey from Crop to Cup

The continent of Africa boasts 54 countries, with several being major coffee-growing and producing areas. Coffee in African countries is more than just a commodity; it's a deeply ingrained culture, attached to rituals and social gatherings. The flavor notes of a coffee bean vary significantly depending on where and how it is grown and processed.

Global coffee production map.

Ethiopia: The Birthplace of Coffee

Ethiopia is often recognized as the birthplace of coffee and its culture. Legend has it that Kaldi, a 9th-century goat herder, discovered the coffee plant after observing its energizing effect on his flock. Ethiopia gifted the world Coffee Arabica, the species responsible for most high-quality coffees.

Ethiopian Natural Coffee offers unique blueberry overtones with marmalade and fruit undertones, culminating in a clear and refined finish. Coffee farmers in Ethiopia employ a unique natural dry-process, unlike the typical wet-process used in most equatorial regions. The surrounding skin, fruit layer, and parchment shell of each individual seed are then removed.

When you savor Ethiopian Natural Coffee, you experience quality green coffee beans, sun-dried with the cherry still on the seed. This is followed by an artisan coffee roaster working magic to bring out the natural fruit notes.

Read also: Characteristics of African Coffee

Rwanda: A Rising Star in Coffee Production

Rwanda, located in the African Great Lakes region, is one of the smallest countries on the African mainland. Coffee was introduced to Rwanda in the early 1900s by German missionaries, unlike Ethiopia where coffee is native. By 1930, coffee farming in Rwanda increased, though it was mostly low-grade, high-volume green coffee beans. Today, Rwanda is Africa’s ninth-largest Arabica coffee producer, with around 450,000 small coffee farms, each with approximately 165 trees.

Rwanda Coffee is known for its sweet, full-bodied, fruity, and acidic profile. In response to the Rwandan Genocide of 1994, organizations like PEARL and SPREAD were launched. Coffee farming is one of the country’s most valuable crops, with investments in infrastructure and training to support Rwandan coffee producers.

Kenya: Ideal Conditions for Coffee Growing

Kenya's geographic location, intersected by the equator, provides near-perfect conditions for growing coffee. Kenya AA Coffee is a bold coffee with subtle nuances that light up the entire palate. The red coffee cherries are hand-picked and sorted based on color and ripeness. They are then separated from sticks, leaves, or any other material. The coffee cherries are split by a machine to unwrap the green raw coffee bean from its casing. After separating the green coffee bean, it is washed well to remove any excess casing. The final cleaning involves washing the coffee beans to remove any remaining bits of casing or dirt. The coffee farmer then brings the green coffee beans to the exporter.

Coffee production is a significant contributor to the economy of Kenya. The industry is noted for its cooperative system of production, processing, milling, marketing, and auction system. The acidic soil in the highlands of central Kenya, along with ample sunlight and rainfall, provide excellent conditions for growing coffee plants.

Despite its proximity to Ethiopia, coffee cultivation in Kenya began in 1893, when French Holy Ghost Fathers introduced coffee trees from Reunion Island. In 1933, the Coffee Act established the Kenyan Coffee Board, moving the sale of coffee back to Kenya. In the early 1950s, an agricultural act was passed to create family holdings that combined subsistence farming with the production of cash crops for additional income. In the 2022-2023 coffee year, $127.8 million worth of coffee was sold through the Nairobi Coffee Exchange, marking a 43.8% decrease from the previous year.

Read also: Choosing a coffee machine

Inside the Journey of a Single Coffee Bean – From Mountain Farm to Your Morning Cup

The major coffee-growing regions in Kenya are the high plateaus around Mount Kenya, the Aberdare Range, Kisii, Nyanza, Bungoma, Nakuru, Kericho, and Nandi.

Tanzania: Wildlife and Coffee

Tanzania, bordering Kenya and Rwanda, is the largest of the East African countries. Mt. Aged Tanzania Tarime Coffee hails from smallholding farms in the Tarime district, close to the Kenyan border. The region has a reputation for African coffee that is more complex and a higher-grade coffee than most of the country’s beans.

Uganda: Small Farms, Big Impact

More than three million people work in coffee farms in Uganda, with most of the coffee farms being small farms with only about six acres. Most producers use a sun-dried process for their Robusta coffee, but there are new attempts to reintroduce wet processing for their coffee.

Our single-origin African coffees: Ethiopian, Rwanda, Kenya AA, and Aged Tanzania and Uganda offer unique flavor profiles are roasted and combined in our African Blend Coffee. John Weaver uses his extensive knowledge and skillset to hand roast and hand blend an amazing coffee blend of these beautiful Arabica coffees which come together as our African Coffee Blend. This robust blend offers an intense, yet medium-bodied complexity with bright fruit berry and citrus flavors with a deep finish.

Challenges and Innovations in East African Coffee Production

Despite being home to some of the world’s leading coffee exporters, East Africa faces significant challenges, including small farm sizes, infrastructure gaps, climate crises, and political instabilities. Roughly 80% of all coffee is produced by smallholder farmers. In East Africa, smallholder farmers dominate the coffee industry and help the region lead in coffee production versus the rest of Africa. As of 2020, coffee production in East Africa accounted for 82% of Africa’s coffee production - and nearly 10% of all global production. Ethiopia and Uganda, both in East Africa, are in the top 10 of all coffee producing countries as of 2020 and together make up 8% of global coffee production, according to International Coffee Organization (ICO) data.

Read also: A Cafe Experience in Cape Town

Income from coffee is critical for enabling farmers to pay school fees for children and to purchase food and other household necessities, with coffee ranking high as an important cash crop across the region. Countries in East Africa, including Ethiopia, are well-known for their Arabica coffee thanks to ideal conditions for growing this type of coffee plant. (Look for the Arabica label on your coffee bag, too!) But of the 12.5 million smallholder coffee farmers around the world, more than 80% still live below the poverty line.

Improving the value of coffee is crucial to helping smallholder farmers - both in East Africa and around the world - and bettering the industry for all involved. Increasing the value of coffee through sustainably improved yields and greater productivity are keys to helping smallholder farmers lift themselves out of poverty.

Coffee trees need good soil, too, with a good drainage system. This is often in shaded areas, which helps limit the detrimental effects of too much sun. The trees are often found at higher altitudes, which provides many of these climate conditions. East Africa has many of these conditions, making countries like Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Ethiopia well-known for their coffees.

Not long before that morning cup of coffee, the coffee grounds were a fruit called a cherry. And those cherries take almost a year to develop on the branches of a coffee tree. The quality of the cherry often depends on how the tree was treated throughout the growing season.

High-quality coffee requires farmers to apply certain agronomic practices which include: Pruning and rejuvenation, which develops new branches that produce fruit Mulching and composting, which help improve the quality of the soil Pest management, which prevents damage to trees

From the time a coffee tree is planted, it takes about three or four years for the tree to produce cherries for harvesting. There’s usually one main harvest a year, but sometimes two.

Whether by hand or machine, there are two ways to harvest:

  • Strip picked: All the coffee is stripped off the branch at one time
  • Selectively picked: Only the ripe, red cherries are taken and the harvest takes several months as cherries ripen at different times

In East Africa, especially where Arabica is grown, much of the coffee is selectively picked by hand, which significantly decreases waste despite being more labor- and time-intensive.

Coffee Processing in East Africa

East Africa produces some of the world's best coffee due to the region's unique climate and geography. Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, and Tanzania are established origins in the coffee industry, holding a significant share of the global market.

In East Africa, prominent coffee producing countries include Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, and Burundi.

Processing Techniques

As the two main established methods in the global coffee sector, washed and natural coffee processing are both present in the region. But which is more popular? And what about experimental coffee processing? Are there any barriers to that, and is it growing in popularity here, as it is in Latin America?

  • Ethiopia: Known for both washed and natural coffees, with experimental processing methods becoming increasingly popular.
  • Rwanda: Almost all coffee grown in Rwanda is arabica, and most of that is washed.
  • Tanzania: Around 90% of Tanzanian arabica is washed, with a small percentage subjected to natural processing.
  • Uganda: Robusta hardly ever undergoes washed processing, with most being naturally sun-dried.
  • Kenya: It is rare to find co-operatives or smallholder farmers using anything other than washed processing.
  • Burundi: Coffee in Burundi is predominantly washed (somewhere between 70 and 80%).

Co-operatives in East Africa often handle processing for smallholder farmers at a central location. These CPUs (central pulping units) are owned by the co-operatives, and they generally handle all the pulping, fermentation, and washing of coffee supplied by individual farmers.

However, this can at times be a barrier for experimentation with processing in the region. As CPUs in places like Tanzania deal with large volumes of coffee from massive areas and dozens of different farmers, experimenting is not always an easy prospect.

Barriers for developments in processing

According to William, the Tanzanian Coffee Board has been conducting education aimed at improving and scaling coffee production, rather than exploring new or alternative coffee processing methods.

Rogers agrees that funding is one of the major obstacles to improving processing or using alternative techniques. Often, co-operatives have more pressing concerns.

However, this broad trend is by no means true for every farm in the region. In Kenya, for instance, there are large farms starting to invest in new methods like carbonic maceration and aerobic/anaerobic fermentation, as are some producers in Ethiopia.

Is change important? And how can it be achieved?

Joe adds that it is important to have a variety of processing methods, as this gives farmers and cooperatives more flexibility.

All of our interviewees believe that East African coffee farmers would benefit from improving their coffee processing, whether that means a focus on quality in the processing itself, or a full switch to a new method. However, these practices should be sustainable and sensible when implemented, given that any kind of change will require a lot of investment.

It remains to be seen how long it will take for producers in East Africa to innovate in processing on a wider scale. However, most of the professionals I spoke to are optimistic that with proper education, the right investment plans, and improving market access, it’s certainly possible.

Supporting Coffee Farmers in East Africa

Many coffee farmers in eastern Africa live in poverty despite the crop’s profit-making potential. Women are traditionally the most disadvantaged. Organizations support coffee farmers to build routes to profitable markets and grow their own livelihoods.

Our coffee projects support farmers to sell to lucrative markets and collect environmental data to allow farmers to capitalise on coffee’s eco-friendly credentials. With a holistic and sustainable approach, the project supported farmers with agricultural training, coffee processing, establishing nurseries for coffee and other trees and obtaining Fairtrade and Organic certifications.

Both social and environmental externalities contribute significantly to the hidden costs of Eastern African coffee value chains, with Robusta coffee boasting considerably higher social hidden costs from the living income gap than Arabica due to its lower farm gate prices and profit margins. Hidden costs associated with the living income gap constitute the largest share, particularly in Ethiopia.

Country Coffee Type Processing Method Key Characteristics
Ethiopia Arabica Washed and Natural Floral, citrus, funky, sweet
Rwanda Arabica Washed Sweet, full-bodied, fruity, acidic
Kenya Arabica Washed Bold, nuanced, bright
Tanzania Arabica Washed (mostly), Natural Mild, hard
Uganda Robusta, Arabica Natural (Robusta), Washed (Arabica) Earthy, complex, floral tones
Burundi Arabica Washed Bright, floral, berry notes

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