Maintaining youthful and healthy skin is a common goal, and for individuals with African American skin, finding the right anti-wrinkle cream is essential. This article provides expert reviews and recommendations to help you choose the best products for your skin type.
The most common mistake is scrubbing the heck out of skin. In reality, physical exfoliation-manually sloughing away dead skin cells via formulas with granules or abrasive pads-is too harsh. In fact, it can even make skin conditions worse. To be clear, I see this tendency in all my patients, no matter their skin color, but the damage is more apparent in melanin-rich skin.
Here are four more common skincare moves on my don’t list:
- DON’T try to fix all your issues simultaneously
- DON’T cleanse the same way morning and night
- DON’T believe that your melanin provides enough sunscreen
Many people with melanin-rich skin think they don’t need sunscreen. Incorrect! While it is true that melanin (and especially eumelanin, which is the type responsible for darker skin, hair, and eyes) has the ability to scatter and absorb UV rays to protect your skin against sun damage, it’s not complete protection.
All skin tones should wear at least SPF 30 daily. It’s important for preventing discoloration and hyperpigmentation, which pops up as our skin ages. I prefer tinted sunscreens, which provide better protection against hyperpigmentation (dark spots) and melasma (patchy discoloration) because they block the visible light that comes from both the sun and artificial sources like your phone and computer screen.
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DON’T go to just any skincare professional. If you are thinking about doing cosmetic treatments, make sure to find a licensed practitioner who has plenty of experience with skin of color. Lightly invasive procedures like chemical peels, microneedling, and laser resurfacing can be especially irritating for skin of color, so you want an expert who will know how to adjust the approach.
For instance, some lasers, like IPL and CO2 lasers, are simply not suitable for darker skin tones, and using the wrong one can leave severe scarring and white spots on the skin. People with darker skin also have a higher risk of developing hyperpigmentation from intermediate and deep chemical peels. A good rule of thumb: Always ask your practitioner for before-and-after photos of their patients/clients with your skin tone, and whether the treatment you’re interested in has been tested on skin of color.
Dr. Rosemarie Ingleton is a board-certified NYC dermatologist with over 20 years of experience and the medical director of her practice Ingleton Dermatology. She is a national authority in general and cosmetic dermatology, adult acne, and dermatologic surgery, as well as a recognized expert in treating skin of color.
With her skincare line ROSE Ingleton MD, Dr. Ingleton made it her mission to set a new standard for dermatologist-developed skincare, investing in educating her community and developing science-forward formulas that are effective and gentle enough for all skin tones.
How to choose the right moisturizer for your skin type!
Key Ingredients to Look For
When choosing an anti-wrinkle cream, consider products containing these ingredients:
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- Retinol: Stimulates collagen production for firmer, plumper skin.
- Hyaluronic Acid: Hydrates and plumps the skin, smoothing out fine lines.
- Glycolic Acid: Exfoliates and minimizes dark spots.
- Vitamin C: Protects against free radicals and brightens the skin.
- Peptides: Support collagen production and improve skin texture.
Top Anti-Wrinkle Creams for African American Skin
SkinMedica Retinol Complex
SkinMedica has this dermatologist-approved ingredient in spades and unlike other wrinkle creams, you can pick from multiple retinol strengths: 0.25 for beginners, while 0.5, and 1.0 are for the most advanced anti-aging benefits. "Once your skin fully adjusts to retinol, you'll want to try more potent concentrations so you continue to see results," suggests Dr. Yadav. Beyond retinol, this wrinkle cream is also formulated with SkinMedica's PhytoShield Complex, a proprietary formula of antioxidants that improve skin texture and minimize irritation. To help combat any inflammation your skin may experience, the wrinkle cream's formula also includes magnolia bark extract.
"SkinMedica is a brand I've trusted for years, and their retinol product is, in my opinion, the gold-standard on the market," says Underwood. "I love that it comes in multiple strengths, so you can customize the treatment strength, whether you're a retinol newbie or a seasoned user, like myself." Underwood says that the formula itself is pretty creamy and moisturizing-a major plus for these types of products-making it a solid choice for normal to dry skin. You'll still need to layer a serum or moisturizer underneath for extra hydration and to prevent potential redness, flaking, and sensitivity. Once your skin becomes used to the low retinol concentration you can eventually skip the extra step. "I noticed results from consistent use after about six weeks-and I've been using this product off and on for years," Underwood says. "My horizontal lines have definitely been softened and my skin is glowy and refined. This is worth every cent." Also, our biggest tip with using this wrinkle cream is to begin twice weekly to avoid any potential flaking or redness typically associated with retinol use then graduate to nightly use. Apply in the evening after cleansing and toning and before applying your moisturizer.
Skin Type: All skin types
Active Ingredients: Retinol and PhytoShield Complex
Size: 1 oz
Neutrogena Rapid Repair Wrinkle Cream
If you aren't looking to break the bank on a wrinkle cream, Neutrogena's Rapid Repair wrinkle cream is a solid choice, Dr. Yadav says. "I like this product from Neutrogena because it’s a concentrated, yet gentle formula that is also easy to find and has an accessible price point." In addition to fighting fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots using retinol (found in many pricier alternatives), the cream is also formulated with hyaluronic acid to hydrate skin, which plumps it up and smoothes the look of lines. Typically retinol is used in the night time to avoid irritation, but Neutrogena actually advises using this wrinkle cream twice daily. I was a bit nervous about these instructions, but since my skin is used to retinol and I liberally reapply broad-spectrum sunscreen, I decided to give it a shot.
After slathering on a pearl-sized amount to my freshly cleansed face and neck, I noticed my skin looked more radiant after a few days. With regular use, my smile lines and even some acne-related dark spots also looked less obvious. It also contains similar ingredients to pricer wrinkle creams, including Skinmedica, Dr. Dennis Gross, and Lancôme, but at a fraction of the cost. One thing to keep in mind is that it isn’t the most cosmetically elegant. Don’t get me wrong. Neutrogena performs well, especially for the price but I found it cream pills more frequently on my skin than pricier options. That said, as long as I regularly use a face exfoliant then the pilling is relatively minimal.
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Skin Type: All skin types
Active Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid and retinol
Size: 1.7 oz
Dr. Dennis Gross Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Intense Wrinkle Cream
Caring for sensitive skin can be a real drag since redness, itching, stinging, peeling, and dryness can commonly occur. Thankfully, dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross, MD, created a sensitive skin-friendly wrinkle cream that's safe for retinol beginners. How? It's infused with Phyto-Retinol Blend that combines retinol with bakuchiol, rambutan, and ferulic acid to help minimize the retinol uglies that would normally leave skin red and itchy. "That means you get a powerful cocktail of line-minimizing ingredients with pretty much no irritation-a huge plus in my book," says Underwood, who loves this moisturizer because it absorbs into his skin beautifully, leaving it hydrated and plump.
Given Underwood's glowing review and my general love of other Dr. Dennis Gross products, I gave this wrinkle cream a shot. It's a soft, semi-thick cream that yet spreads across my skin like butter on warm toast. My face is definitely glowing whenever I apply this face cream. Since I test a lot of new beauty products, my skin has become quite reactive. But, I haven't experienced any irritation on my skin since incorporating this epic face cream into my routine. After just two weeks of twice daily use I noticed my smile lines and acne-related dark spots began to disappear. These spots are normally very stubborn and can take months to vanish, so I was pretty surprised to see speedy results. That said, you probably won't love this face cream if you're already using a prescription-strength retinoid, like tretinoin because your skin is used to a quicker exfoliation process. This wrinkle cream combines a super gentle retinol and a plant-based alternative, while prescriptions work much faster but with the risk of irritation. Still, myretinoid-related redness and dryness have practically disappeared since using this soothing face cream, making it a must-have in my routine. I'll continue reaching for this moisturizer when I don’t apply my prescription retinoid cream so my face can still enjoy the hydrating and light brightening effect in the winter without the flakes or itching.
Skin Type: All skin types
Active Ingredients: Retinol, bakuchiol, ferulic acid, and rambutan
Size: 2 oz
RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream
If you're looking for a tried-and-true performer, you've found it here. "Retinol is the most effective over-the-counter wrinkle fighter and RoC is a pioneer in the use of this ingredient," Underwood says. He likes this night treatment because it's a great non-irritating option that's also infused with glycolic acid to minimize the appearance of dark spots. With regular use you'll notice a more radiant complexion, and deep wrinkles will begin to smooth. It'll take about 12 weeks of daily use before you (and those lucky enough to be around you) will notice visible results. And don't worry about over-exfoliation: ROC contains glycerin and dimethicone for instant skin hydration.
It is important, though, to limit your usage of this product to nighttime only, just as it says on the instructions (you're a rule follower, right?). Because it contains both retinol and glycolic acid-two powerful active ingredients that refine skin texture-this could make your skin extra sun-sensitive if you use it during the day. Sunburns? No thank you. So be sure to slather on your go-to face sunscreen, such as my all-time favorite one from Isdin that helps reverse sun damage.
Skin Type: All skin types
Active Ingredients: Retinol, glycolic acid
Size: 1.0 oz
Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream
Olay's Regenerist moisturizer is made with one of the smoothest and creamiest formulas on the list-I love massaging it on. The best part? Hyaluronic acid gives my face instant hydration, which is a welcome treat from the harsh winter weather we've been facing in New York. Shea butter is a superstar moisturizer that is like a refreshing glass of water for dry skin and helps maintain dewiness. The antioxidant-rich ingredient helps calm irritation and is even safe for someone with nut allergies because it’s made entirely of fat, according to Cleveland Clinic. Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B-3, which helps to boost skin cell turnover so skin is extra firm and glowy. Also in there: antioxidants to help fend off the future free radical damage caused by air pollution, sun exposure, and smoke that can lead to weaker collagen and cause wrinkles. Free radicals can also cause redness, dryness, and eczema, Dr. Dennis Gross previously told WH.
For me, the rich texture is a winner because it's completely non-greasy, making this formula ideal for dry skin, but also suitable for oily types who are generally scared to use thick moisturizers once temperatures drop. Since it's on the thicker side, it'll take a few minutes for my skin to fully absorb the cream, but I don't mind because my face looks and feels noticeably softer. I knew this cream was really working when my friends started asking what I've been using on my face-and swapping in this Olay cream was the only significant change I'd made. Underwood agrees: "Who says you have to pay a lot for an effective wrinkle cream? Not me," he says. "Olay's classic 'red jar' cream is packed with decades of anti-aging skin science."
Skin Type: Normal, dry, and combination
Active Ingredients: Vitamin B3 and hyaluronic acid
Size: 1.7 oz
Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream
The greasy feel of certain skincare products can be unpleasant, but that certainly isn't Lancôme's anti-aging cream. "I often find fancy wrinkle creams to be overly-fragranced and far too thick," Underwood says. "That's not the case with this cream, which has a lighter almost whipped texture that hydrates beautifully without a hint of greasiness." My very oily cheeks become drier when temperatures drop in New York. Like Underwood, I found this wrinkle cream has a whipped-like texture and in my experience, it provides my face ample hydration without congesting my pores. As for the anti-aging benefits, in the short-term I've experienced a more even-tone complexion and my fine lines are less noticeable. In the long-term Rénergie can help with lower-face sagging by using a blend of potent ingredients. "It's trifecta of active ingredients-moisturizing hyaluronic acid, line-smoothing peptides, and skin-evening niacinamide-handily tackles visible signs of aging with regular use," Underwood says. He recommends making it the last step in your nighttime routine to help prevent moisture loss.
The only downside with this moisturizer is the price. However, the quality of anti-aging superstar ingredients coupled with display-worthy packaging helps justify the added cost. And FWIW, this is the only refillable option on this list. For example, a 1.7-ounce jar of Lancôme’s face cream costs $150, while a same size refill will only set you back $130. Since each jar is estimated to last two months, you’ll save $100 a year just by purchasing the refills.
Skin Type: Combination and oily
Active Ingredients: Peptides, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid
Size: 1.7 oz
CeraVe Anti-Aging Face Cream with Sunscreen SPF 30
"While not typically found in wrinkle creams, daily sun protection is crucial to prevent further wrinkles and skin damage,” says dermatologist Dr. Marie Jhin, MD. Since sunscreen is a non-negotiable part of a proper anti-aging skincare routine, Dr. Jhin appreciates the combo of broad-spectrum SPF 30 coverage with hydrating hyaluronic acid and ceramides to keep your skin moisturized and protected. This CeraVe day cream is also made with encapsulated retinol, a type of non-irritating retinol, to further smooth uneven texture and improve the look of fine lines. The ceramides also help with wrinkle prevention, since they help restore the skin's barrier.
I gotta be completely honest, I didn't love this day cream because it leaves behind a white cast on my complexion and for that reason alone it's an automatic return for me. (For reference, I wear shade 9 in Armani Luminous Silk Foundation.) However, if you have a lighter complexion than I do you should be fine. Here's what I do like: The thicker texture spreads surprisingly well across my face and doesn't pill when layered under my face makeup. It also doesn't make my normally oily skin look like a greasy slice of pizza. Instead, it adds more of a natural-looking luminous glow which is appreciated in the winter. Also keep in mind you should apply this wrinkle cream at least 15 minutes before sun exposure and then every two hours for adequate sun protection. So as long as you have the time commitment and white cast isn't a typical problem you've dealt with, then you're probs a good fit for this wrinkle cream.
Skin Type: All
Active Ingredients: Retinol, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, octinoxate, and zinc oxide
Size: 1.8 oz
Particle Face Cream
Particle’s Face Cream is made with the highest quality ingredients and is safe and effective for use on all skin types, tones, and sensitivity levels. Everyone will be able to see the difference in your skin as soon as you begin using Particle. But the most exciting part? They’ll see the big benefits but won’t be able to tell you’re using anything on your face. Particle gets completely absorbed into the skin.
Real User Reviews:
- “I’m looking better and younger every single day. I’ve been using the face cream and have seen a noticeable improvement in my facial skin."
- “Amazing. This is the first product of its kind that I have used and it really works."
- “I was pleasantly surprised when I started using the face cream. It feels good and makes my skin look more alive."
- “I’ve been using your face cream for a while now, and it’s amazing! My extremely dry skin was hard to manage, but applying it twice daily has completely resolved the dryness."
- “After only a short period of time you will be extremely impressed by the results - a better complexion and fewer lines. great quality. Best face cream I’ve ever tried."
- “I think I look 10 years younger."
- “Particle face cream is soft and smooth going on and definitely reduces puffy eyes."
- “People swear that I can’t be 50!"
- "Been using it about year or so, and highly recommend, it works great."
- "I love this face cream, it is making my face look much younger and healthier. It makes my skin feel so clean and smooth. It use it daily! It’s a great non greasy moisturizer. Easily applied . My dermatologist approves ."
- "I truly love all of the products that I have used this far. They never disappoint! I find it very helpful that I only have to use one source for my needs as it makes for an easy and fast shopping venture. All from the same place. I have now been using them regularly for close to a month, and lately I am starting to see real improvement."
- "Awesome smooths out lines fades dark spots !"
- "Most creams do little or nothing. Particle feels good going on, disappears and leaves improved look behind. I look forward to using it each day."
Additional Tips for Skincare
- Exfoliate regularly with a chemical, granule-free formula like glycolic acid.
- Apply sunscreen daily with at least SPF 30 to prevent discoloration and hyperpigmentation.
- Cleanse your face gently, using different methods in the morning and at night.
- Consult a skincare professional with experience treating skin of color.
Understanding the Aging Process and Wrinkle Formation
As you age, the body produces less collagen, which can make your skin more susceptible to wrinkles, Dr. Yadav says. Collagen is what helps the skin maintain its elasticity and resilience. Cellular turnover also decreases, causing dead skin cells to build up on the surface of the skin, making its texture look rougher and uneven, and exacerbating the appearance of wrinkles, Dr. Yadav says.
