In an unforgettable episode of Parts Unknown, the late Anthony Bourdain, a celebrated chef and author, ventured into the heart of Tangier, Morocco. Indulging his fascination with William S. Burroughs and the city's rich history, Bourdain explored the "Interzone," a place where artists and writers sought refuge from Western moral constraints.
As you’ve probably seen on Instagram, Morocco has become quite the tourist hotspot in the past decade or so. Globetrotter Anthony Bourdain was no stranger to Morocco, having visited the country previously for his first show A Cook’s Tour back in 2002.
This guide will help you if you’re planning a trip to Morocco or Tangier specifically and want to eat at some of the same places visited by Anthony Bourdain in Tangier.
Here’s a recap of the episode, the places Tony ate, and what he ate at each one.
Tangier, Morocco
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A City of Intrigue and Inspiration
“Just like the movies, life finally lives up to the advertising,” mused Anthony Bourdain during his early career trip to the Kingdom of Morocco.
Bourdain's journey through Tangier was not just a culinary adventure but also a deep dive into the city's cultural and historical significance.
Tangier, Morocco: Tony explores the "Interzone," where artists like Burroughs, Bowles and the Rolling Stones sought escape from Western moral prohibitions and the possibilities of great empty spaces. Does that "anything goes" attitude still exist?
On who, historically, goes to Tangier: “If you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind of sex that was frowned upon at home, and an affordable lifestyle set against an exotic background, Tangier was for you.”
On why one goes to Morocco: “It is a station of the cross for bad boys of culture.”
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On feeling like Humphrey Bogart: “You can walk around inside the movie in your head, play the Bogey character you never were, all against an all too willing, all to genuine backdrop.”
On Morocco today: “The days of predatory poets in search of literary inspiration and young flesh are probably over for good. Hippies can just as easily get their bong rips in Portland or Peoria.
Iconic Locations and Culinary Delights
Throughout the episode, Bourdain visited several iconic locations, each offering a unique glimpse into Tangier's vibrant culture.
Café Tingis
They say that sooner or later, all trips to Tangier lead to Café Tingis, and for his first stop in the city Bourdain meets with local journalist Jonathon Dawson to discuss the role of the café as a central meeting point and people-watching hub.
Saveur de Poisson
For his first taste of the incredible food on offer in this part of the world, Tony visits the Saveur de Poisson restaurant.
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Tagine
Bourdain is also reintroduced to a dish he is all too familiar with, tagine. This is a traditional Moroccan stew that can include vegetables, meat, or fish.
Jajouka and the Ahl-Srif Tribe
Heading into the Jbala foothills of the Rif mountain range, Tony visits the village of Jajouka, 85km south of Tangier, and home to the Ahl-Srif tribe (“Saintly People”). Here, he is a guest at the home of Bachir Attar, leader of a group of master musicians local to the village, whose style has influenced jazz and guitar players the world over.
The meal begins with briouat, similar to a kefta pocket. Envelopes of dough, filled with seasoned beef, are baked until golden, then crisped in oil. There is a main course of tagine, this time with chicken as the main ingredient.
Christopher Gibbs' Villa
Nearing the end of his trip, Anthony meets with Christopher Gibbs, an antique dealer and longtime expat, at his villa for a dinner party.
The main dish here is pastilla, a type of meat or often pigeon pie. For this version, chicken is slow-cooked in broth and spices, pulled or shredded, then folded into an egg mixture cooked in the reduced stock from the boil. This is layered with blanched almonds, powdered sugar, and cinnamon.
The Allure of Majoun and Café Baba
Two locations stood out for their unique offerings and cultural significance: the exploration of majoun and a visit to Café Baba.
Majoun
This Moroccan hash confection is generally made with fruit, nuts, chocolate, and honey, and is served as a sweet and mind-opening treat. Hash (or kief) is chopped and slowly added to melted butter and chocolate over low heat, to which spices are added, and then blended with cashews, almonds, walnuts, and dried fruit.
On majoun, a Moroccan candy made with kief: “I was of course fascinated by this product since reading about it, and inquired of some local contacts who shall necessarily go unnamed.”
On the circumstances under which he might get high on camera: “Of course, network standards and practices prohibit me from even tasting this delicious and reportedly mind-altering treat. I’m guessing, anyway. So until I see Chris, John and Wolf doing bong rips in the Situation Room, I will of course abide by these rules, because that’s the kind of guy I am.”
Café Baba
With the smell of sweet mint tea and a thick slow-moving haze of smoke, Anthony remarks that Café Baba “[reminds me] a lot of my old dorm room”.
On Cafe Baba: “Sweet mint tea and a thick, slow-moving haze of smoke. It smells like my dorm room, 1972.”
On people getting high: “Others in this room, however? Well, don’t give me that innocent look you young punks, I know somebody in here’s smoking reefer.”
On contact highs: “The thing about Cafe Baba, just sitting here, taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. Contact high? Whoa, I’m hungry.”
Café Baba
Quotable Bourdain: Wit and Wisdom
Bourdain's sharp wit and insightful observations were a hallmark of his shows. Here are a few memorable quotes from the Tangier episode:
- On what people say about Tangier: “Everybody who comes here to do an article does the same article.”
- On “boner-inspiring” dishes: “If every dish I’ve been told over the years was going to make me strong worked, I’d have a permanent pup tent going on down there.”
- On a restaurant owner who chants in the dining room: “He’s freaking me out man. He’s like that guy when you’re tripping who keeps going like this to you.” (Bourdain puts his hand in front of the camera a few times, see above.)
- On the local diet: “I haven’t had so much fruits and nuts since Altamont. I told Mick, I said Mick, this is a bad crowd. Let’s go back to the chopper. But he was all like yeah man, we can’t disappoint the fans. Ah, memories.”
- On William S. Burroughs: “He was a heroin addict, a homosexual, and an inspiration to those proto-hipsters who came to be known as the beats. Burroughs, however, was not a hipster. There was nothing beatnik about him. He was a somewhat stuffy, well-dressed, St. Louis son of a good family gone wrong. He was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole damn bunch. On the Road, you can have it.”
- On the Spanish tortilla guy: “Oh yeah, the eggs. The egg man. I am me and we are you and where’s my fucking omelet dude? Cause I am hungry.”
- On rock pilgrimages: “For years, if you were a rock god, you had to come here. Dig the crazy percussion and strings and pipes that took you to another place. It’s intricate, hypnotic, beautiful, and if you’re in the right, uh, frame of mind? Mesmerizing.”
- To a group of ex-pats who are all older than him, some significantly so: “Who smokes hashish at this table, will you please raise your hand?”
Anthony Bourdain's Other Moroccan Adventures
Anthony Bourdain visited Morocco twice; to film season 1 (episodes 11-12) of A Cook’s Tour and season 1 (episode 5) of Parts Unknown - that latter trip focused exclusively on the city of Tangier, which I’ve covered elsewhere.
If you’re planning a trip to Morocco too, and are ready to sample the culture and cuisine of this North African country, you might be curious about the places visited by Anthony Bourdain in Morocco. Below you’ll find them all in one place, to help you plan your trip.
Moulay Idriss
Beginning in the town of Moulay Idriss, one hour outside of the city of Fez, Bourdain is introduced to dishes that will feature prominently on this journey. Ground meat features prominently, with the freshly butchered beef being ground with mint, onion, cilantro, dried garlic, beef fat, cumin, and paprika to create a spiced flavor.
Roadside Accommodations En Route to Risani
Leaving the cities and heading south up over the mountains to the desert, Anthony and his driver stop at one of the many roadside accommodations en route.
Risani Market and Berber Hospitality
Arriving in the town of Risani late at night, Bourdain braves a late-night trip to the market in an attempt to find a souk or at least a stall offering fresh kebabs.
Dining with members of the nomadic desert Berber tribe, he is first served a meat pie cooked directly in the sand. Using freshly made bread, the pie is built using ground beef, peppers, onions, and a hard-boiled egg.
Whilst this is taking place, the Berbers will build a fire to heat the sand, burying the bread directly in the sand itself for 30 minutes to cook. Perhaps the most anticipated dish, however, is the lamb. First rubbed down with water and onion, the lamb is then mounted onto a stick and bound with wire. It is then cooked slowly in a traditional packed mud oven for a few hours, the oven itself sealed to ensure no heat escapes. This, remarks Bourdain, is the life.
Traditional Moroccan Lamb Dish
Plan Your Trip
Have any questions about these places visited by Anthony Bourdain in Morocco?
Follow in Tony’s footsteps - literally - with my Anthony Bourdain-inspired walking tour guides.
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