Getting a pet Giant African Land snail is the way many people get interested in molluscs. With the right conditions, Giant African Land snails can live for many years and make fascinating pets. Unfortunately, the pet shops that supply them often do not know much about these animals and their care.
Understanding Giant African Land Snails
All Giant African Land snails belong to the family of snails called the Archachatinidae. This is a very large family and includes several small genera, for example Limicolaria. There are two genera of true giant land snails, and these are called Archachatina and Achatina.
- Archachatina - These are considered more primitive than Achatina. They usually have a blunt tip to the shell, and they lay 5-10 large chalky eggs at a time. The largest species is Archachatina marginata which can grow up to 12cm long and has a characteristic yellow stripe inside the lip of the shell and a brown body.
- Achatina - These are similar to Archachatina, but have a pronounced pointed tip to the shell. They lay huge clusters of jelly coated eggs, sometimes as many as 500 at a time but more often 40-100. Achatina achatina is the largest of all land snails, and has a characteristic yellow-brown and black zigzag patterned shell and a black skin with white or grey tubercles. The largest specimen was 450g in weight and had a shell length of 37cm! Achatina fulica is the most well known of African Land snails as it is a prolific breeder and has colonised many tropical countries and become a pest in many.
Does It Matter Which Kind of Snail I Have?
No, not really if you just want to keep them as pets, as they all have similar requirements. However, if you keep Achatina, you need to be aware that they are going to produce lots of offspring, and you will need to dispose of them sensibly and humanely. It is illegal to release them into the wild in the UK. As all snails are hermaphrodite, any two snails of the same type can breed and produce young, so you could have this problem with any species.
How to Care for Pet Snails!
Creating the Ideal Habitat
Giant African Land Snails are native to East Africa, but they have adapted to many other countries, as they are an invasive species. They can grow to 10 inches or 25 centimeters in length. In countries where they can be legally kept, they can make good pets, as they are relatively low maintenance and fascinating to watch.
Tank Requirements
- Tank - glass, Perspex or plastic, depending on cost and availability. 10cm.sq.
- Lid: Find an aquarium with a tightly fitting lid. While the snail needs ventilation, it's also important that the lid of its container fits tightly, as it will climb out if given a chance.
- Companions: It's fine to keep a snail alone or with a partner.
Substrate
The substrate is basically the flooring your snail needs to be content. Since snails like to burrow, you should provide a deeper area in the tank where they can dig.
Read also: Caring for Albino African Land Snails
- Type - potting compost or similar to line tank. Peat based multipurpose or seed and cutting compost are best, but untreated peat should not be used (too acidic). Also avoid bark chips, wood shavings, sand and loam based composts (John Innes).
- Depth: Place about 15-20cm at the base.
- Moisture: The compost you use needs to be kept moist for the snail to be happy. It doesn't need to be soaking wet. Rather, it just needs to be kept damp.
Temperature and Heating
The temperatures at which each species is happiest can vary. The Lissachatina Fulica, for example, needs a tank ideally between 22-24 degrees celcius, while the Achatina Achatina or Tiger snail prefers it warmer at 27-29 degrees celcius. As snails are tropical they do best at 68-72°F.
Tanks should never be placed next to a radiator or other heating source, in a draught or in bright sunlight as these can cause uneven heating or cooling. This can damage the tank and/or harm the snails.
The best way to achieve a warmer temperature (if the room isn't warm enough) is to place a heating pad on the side of the snail's tank. You shouldn't place it under the tank as this will dry out the substrate. Only place it on half the tank so the snail has somewhere to go to cool down if need be. It also is vital that you use a thermostat with any heat pad to control the temperature range of the tank. Heat pads can have temperature malfunctions and potentially kill your snail and are not good at controlling temperature alone.
Light
Snails need some light to be happy. However, indirect sunlight is best. Light enables you to see the snails and may help to keep plants alive longer, but as the snails are mostly noctural it may not be necessary for their welfare. There is some evidence that egg hatching rates may be affected by light levels.
Tank Furniture and Plants
Pieces of wood, moss, flower pots etc can all be used for the snails to shelter under. Providing a plant makes the tank more natural seeming for the snails and helps stop the air from going stagnant, but they need to be capable of withstanding warm, damp conditions. Hairy leafed plants are best avoided. Snails do a lot of damage and plants need to be replaced often.
Read also: Comprehensive Guide to African House Snakes
Feeding Your Giant African Land Snail
Provide a variety of fresh fruit and vegetables. All snails have different tastes, but staples are lettuce, cucumber and apples. Other favourites include spinach, courgettes, sweet corn, avocados, mangos, strawberries, papaya and melon. For carbohydrates provide occasional porridge oats, bran, wholemeal bread or dog biscuits.
- Protein: The best sources of protein are "scud" shrimp and mealworms, but unseasoned raw meat can also be used.
- Food Safety: Always check up on the food, and remove it when it's gone bad. Use organic, pesticide-free food when possible. Leftover pesticides on produce can make your snail ill or potentially kill them. If this is not possible, rinse whatever your snail will eat thoroughly before feeding. Try to serve the innermost layers of inorganic food as a precaution.
Calcium Source
Snails need a steady supply of calcium to maintain their shells. The best way to provide it is to place a cuttlefish bone in the tank, which can be found at most pet stores. Ground eggshells can also be a TEMPORARY source if you do not have cuttlefish available, but it is much lower in calcium content. Your chosen source of calcium should never be put directly onto the snail's food source, rather left in a separate place as they self-regulate their calcium intake and cannot do this if it is on what they are eating. Placing calcium directly onto the snail's food can also risk conditions like organ calcification and improper growth.
Water
Place a shallow water dish in the snail's container for the snail to drink. This dish has the added benefit of providing extra humidity to the tank, but does not really provide much otherwise and can spill. If you do decide to use one, be sure to change it out regularly. Get one made out of a soft material like plastic or silicone- ceramic or glass dishes can break a snail’s shell if they happen to fall on them.
Handling and Hygiene
From the viewpoint of snail welfare, it is best not to handle your snails too often, especially if you are waking them up to do so. However they do get used to being touched and will respond to being handled, often gently grazing sweat and salts from the skin (which may tickle but will not hurt you). Don't hold the shell by the delicate part where the new growth joins on to the existing shell - this corner is a particularly delicate area - unfortunately it also happens to be one of the most natural places to put your fingers when you hold your snail!
Wet your hands before picking up a snail. Slide your hand under the front of the snail. Don't pick snails up by their shells, especially when they are young.
Read also: The Plight of the African Wild Dog
Hygiene
When you notice the tank starts to look smeared or dirty, it's time to wipe it down. You can also check for eggs during this time. Wash your hands thoroughly after you do anything with your snail.
Potential Issues and Solutions
If your snail doesn't like the conditions of its house, it will likely close itself up in its shell, creating a papery white seal at the opening. This has two main causes; a lack of humidity- called aestivation, or a lack of warmth- called hibernation. If your snail is in aestivation or hibernation, revise your care and see if there might be something that needs ammending- and fix them. Snails will (with a few rare exceptions) destroy their seal and come out within a few days of the issue being resolved.
Breeding
Most species are able to breed at 9-18 months, and can breed all year round. Eggs take 4-8 weeks to hatch, depending on species. Remove the eggs from the tank, separate them from the substrate and dry them out at room temperature for three days. Apparently if there is less than 1inch of substrate the snails are discouraged from breeding.
Health
Snails imported to the UK can carry diseases so it is best to obtain ones that have been bred in this country if possible. There are many pests and diseases that attack African Land snails in their native environment but many of them do not seem to occur with captive snails. There are too many to list here and most vets know very little about the subject.
Summary of Care Tips
Article Summary: To care for a giant African land snails, get an aquarium for it with a tight fitting lid, and line the bottom of it with 1 to 2 inches of damp compost. You should also keep the ambient temperature between 71 and 73 degrees Fahrenheit, or place a heating pad under half the tank to ensure the snail is warm enough but has someplace to go if it becomes overheated. To feed your snail, provide fresh produce, such as apples, bananas, lettuce, and cucumbers, as well as a dish of water. Additionally, give your snail a cuttlefish bone for calcium.
| Aspect | Details |
|---|---|
| Habitat | Tank with tight lid, 15-20cm of moist compost |
| Temperature | 68-72°F (22-29°C depending on species) |
| Food | Variety of fruits and vegetables, occasional carbohydrates |
| Calcium | Cuttlefish bone |
| Water | Shallow dish of water |
