My grandfather was adopted and brought up in Aného, south of Togo in West Africa. He lived in Lomé, the capital city, close to his adopted family for most of his life. He was born in a typical African village called Kouma Tokpli, in the Plateaux Region. My grandfather had 24 children, and my father was the youngest. The fact that my grandfather was adopted might seem like too much information, but it changed my relationship with Africa; in a way, it changed my life also.
During my childhood, I spent several summer vacations in Togo. Once, an aunt who had never met my grandfather’s side of the family decided to bring my sister and me along with her daughter to my grandfather’s village, Kouma Tokpli. So, we drove 80 miles from Lomé to Kouma Tokpli. At the time, I had never visited this part of Togo, nor did I visit any other African village.
Living like a local will always be the best way to discover a destination and I had one of the most engaging visit in the village of Davedi in Togo.
Often in an African village, a large group of children is formed around visitors. They followed us, and we soon started a conversation with them. They were plenty of children of all ages. They were so excited, shouting together, that we barely understood what they were saying.
Here, meals are a communal affair. Instead of simply purchasing supplies from a supermarket, you will gather fresh vegetables and fruits from the garden, helping to prepare meals alongside the villagers. While there is no electricity or running water, the experience is enriching and immersive.
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Western life is often far removed from what most of the rest of the world experiences. It is easy to think of other people’s lives being similar to our own until we really see how they live.
African village life illustrates a different model for child rearing. Children have a lot of independence and an unusual degree of autonomy. Children are put to work as soon as they are able. The youngest infant is put in the care of the next youngest child who can manage. Gathering sticks for the fire or fruit which has fallen off a tree are jobs given to the little ones. Boys are given the job of shepherds to watch over and tend to the goats, sheep or other animals the family raise.
One job which is most important and always needed is to bring water to the hut. You will see even the smallest children carrying a container to fill at the well. I am always amazed at the resourcefulness of the children. Tying large containers they call “bidons” filled with 5 gallons of water which weigh about 42 pounds on the back of a bicycle and making it balance to roll back home is a challenge, but they make it work! Even with the littlest one on top the bike!
To ensure your village stay experience is enjoyable and memorable, it’s essential to approach this adventure with respect for the local customs and traditions. Coming with an open mind is key. This experience is not just about observing; it’s about engaging and learning.
Imagine living in a genuine African village where electricity and running water are luxuries. Here, you’ll participate in daily activities-gathering fresh vegetables, assisting in meal preparation, and truly experiencing the essence of village life.
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Life in the village is rooted in relationships, encapsulated by the Swahili word Harambee, which symbolizes community support. Authenticity is essential. Unlike staged village events, you’ll interact with real people and stay in traditional dwellings illuminated by oil or solar lamps. For many, this village stay is transformative, offering profound insights into Ugandan life.
The Journey to Kouma Tokpli
The landscapes on the way were magnificent. Going north from Lomé, along the coast, the landscape changed from coconut groves to vast plains of high grass dotted with big trees. As we approached Kpalimé, the land became greener and greener, and small mountains started to rise from the horizon.
We quickly passed through Kpalimé and arrived at the foot of a range of mountains. At the beginning of the climb, the road was bordered by century-old mango trees planted by the German colons. The sight was beautiful; the trees appeared as though they were forming a guard of honor to welcome us.
As we ascended, through the protected forest of Missahoe, the vegetation was dense and lush. We passed a small waterfall and then reached the police checkpoint. We told them where we were headed, and they opened the gate for us. Finally, we saw a signpost indicating that we had reached Kouma Tokpli.
As we drove along the main street, we stared at villagers who stared back at us, both of us wondering who amongst us was the most surprised at what we were seeing.
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We passed a crumbling church. Further down the road, we could see the villagers’ houses, which looked small and simple. We stopped at what seemed to be the center of the village. A large tree provided shade to the old men sitting underneath it, who were observing us. Soon, several villagers had gathered around us.
My aunt explained to them that we were the Sanvee family, descendants of Josiah, my grandfather. Nakutsi was standing outside his house, holding his cane. He looked very old and frail, wrapped in a traditional cloth with his right shoulder uncovered. We saluted him, and he invited us into his small house, which was made of mud and cement. We all sat on a bench in the main room. He and the other villagers sat on another bench.
The Ewe people speak the Ewe language, which is similar but not the same as the Mina language spoken on the coast. We were able to understand what the villagers were saying.
“Woezon!” bellowed our relative. We answered in chorus, “Yo!” And this is how the welcome ceremony started.
Nakutsi asked after the people in our home, the people from Lomé, as well as the people in the White People Country. We answered in chorus that everyone was well. Someone brought water in a metallic cup and gave it to Nakutsi. He spilled a little water on the ground for the ancestors and then drank a little. He passed the cup to my aunt. She took a sip and gave it to my uncle. When it was my turn, I realized that the water was brownish while bringing the cup to my mouth.
I reluctantly took a sip and then passed it to my sister. She looked at the water and whispered to my aunt that the water was brown. My aunt smiled and told her to wet her lips with the water if she did not want to drink it. She complied, making a face as she did so, which made the rest of us chuckle. Then, Nakutsi gave a short speech about how happy he was to see us, his family. He thanked us for coming from so far to visit him, and he said that us being there meant we did not forget our family, which meant a lot to him. We thanked him in return for his hospitality, concluding the welcome ceremony.
Exploring the Village
Once the ceremony was over, we left the house and wandered around the village. To our surprise, they told us that there was a swimming pool called ‘the submarine’ near the village and asked us if we wanted to go. Doubtful but thrilled, my cousin, my sister, and I accepted the offer. We warned them that we did not bring our bathing suits with us. This was not a problem for them. We followed them across the village, then a road, and then entered a small path in the forest. They were walking either barefoot or with worn-out flip flops.
We wore sneakers, but the children were much more agile in clearing the obstacles in our way. While we went deeper into the forest, my cousin, my sister, and I looked at each other and wondered what kind of swimming pool can be hidden in the woods and laughed. After ten minutes, we left the main path to take a left turn toward a smaller path where the high grass tickled our legs. As we went down the track, sometimes steep, we could hear the sound of water flowing growing louder. We finally arrived on the bank of a small river flowing moderately fast, with several mini waterfalls. At the bottom of one of these, the river, surrounded by rocks, formed a natural swimming pool.
The children of the village were very excited and shouted that this was the pool, ‘the submarine’. They all jumped in the water, splashing around. As teenagers with Western culture, we laughed at what they called a swimming pool. We did not dare to get into the water, so we used the excuse of not having our bathing suits. We watched the other kids having fun. After a short while, they got out of the water and led us to another attraction. After a five-minute walk, we arrived at the bottom of a beautiful waterfall, 5 five meters tall. Again, they all jumped into the water and then were soon under the falling water, shouting and screaming while resisting the force of the water.
Traditions and Daily Life
All over Western Africa, the birth of twins is rare and considered sacred - they are seen as gods. When a twin dies, the fetish priest will produce a fetish twin doll for the mother who’ll take care of it (i.e.
After scraping the hole with a knife or machete, a fire is lit and blown into the hole to facilitate the collection of sap. Fermentation starts soon after the sap is collected and within an hour or two becomes reasonably high in alcohol (up to 4%) which makes palm wine’ shelf life extremely short. Leftover palm wine can also be distilled to create a stronger drink - the local akpeteshie.
You will reside in traditional African huts, where modern conveniences are set aside. Expect to use an outdoor toilet, and bathing is done with hot water brought to you in a basin. While there is no electricity or running water, the experience is enriching and immersive.
The Ik People, one of Uganda’s indigenous ethnic groups, inhabit the remote northeastern Karamoja region, nestled on the slopes of Mount Morungole. In this secluded environment, modern communication is virtually non-existent-your mobile phone will be of no use here, as there are no communication towers. The Ik People offer a truly unique experience, making this one-of-a-kind village a gem in East Africa.
For the Karamojong, cattle are not just livestock; they are considered a God-given right and a symbol of wealth and status. These manyattas are intricately constructed and serve as vibrant centers of community life. In fact, the largest manyatta in East Africa is located in the Karamoja region, offering a unique glimpse into their way of life.
The Batwa did not build permanent villages or cultivate fields or gardens; instead, they relied entirely on the forest for food, shelter, and medicine. A visit to the Batwa allows you to learn about their traditional practices. It highlights the urgent need for their inclusion in eco-tourism initiatives, particularly in gorilla trekking. Engaging with the Batwa offers profound lessons in conservation and respect for nature, showcasing their low ecological footprint and deep-rooted wisdom.
Tips for an Authentic Village Stay
If you’re traveling with children or teens. Embrace this chance to discover the real Africa-where every moment invites you to connect, learn, and grow.
- Listen more than you speak: Ask open-ended questions to learn about villagers’ daily routines, traditions, food, crafts, and livelihoods.
- Participate in daily activities: If invited, help with farming, food preparation, handicrafts, or other chores.
- Compliment aspects of village life you admire: Mention solid family bonds, tight-knit community, resourcefulness, resilience, hospitality, etc.
- Ask to learn from elders: Request knowledge they would like to pass on, stories from their youth, or advice for living a good life.
- Try local cuisine. Traditionally, eat with your hands if offered. Say how much you enjoy the food.
- Thank your hosts sincerely before leaving: Express how meaningful your visit was and how much you learned from them.
Generally, be humble, curious, and gracious. Make your interest about the villagers, not about yourself. Focus on building human connections and understanding through compassionate listening and observation.
Experiencing Ruboni and Nshenyi Cultural Villages in Uganda
For an authentic experience, you can stay at the Ruboni Community Camp or the more upscale Snow at the Equator Lodge. During your stay, immerse yourself in local culture by taking dancing and drumming lessons, walking through the village, and meeting traditional healers. You can watch a blacksmith create tools using age-old techniques or assist in preparing meals with fresh, local ingredients.
Nshenyi Cultural Village is a unique opportunity to connect deeply with the culture and spirit of Uganda. Nshenyi Cultural Village, located just three hours from Mbarara along the main road to Western Uganda’s stunning parks-Queen Elizabeth Park, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, and Mgahinga National Park-is a captivating destination that immerses you in the heart of Ankole culture.
Your day begins early with the rhythmic sounds of milking and the fascinating process of ghee-making. Stroll to the nearby Rwandan or Tanzanian border, embracing the area’s rich cultural heritage. You can engage with the community by visiting a local school, enjoying traditional dance performances, and marveling at the diverse birdlife that flourishes here.
While the village offers a rustic experience rather than modern hotel comforts, it provides an authentic glimpse into Ankole traditions.
That was a long time ago! I have been to Kouma Tokpli several times after that, having new experiences and making more friends each time-I know the whole village now. Every time I visit, I meet my family and friends; I stay for several days, learning about their lifestyle and habits. When I am there, I forget everything. I live a traditional African village life close to nature. It benefits my body and my soul. I always leave the village feeling rejuvenated, full of energy, and ready for whatever comes next.
