African clothing and fashion is a diverse topic that provides a look into different African cultures. Since Africa is such a large and diverse continent, traditional clothing differs throughout each country. Clothing varies from brightly colored textiles, to abstractly embroidered robes, to colorful beaded bracelets and necklaces.
For example, many countries in West Africa have "distinct regional dress styles that are the products of long-standing textile crafts in weaving, dyeing, and printing", but these traditions are still able to coexist with western styles. A large contrast in African fashion is between rural and urban societies.
Let's delve into some specific examples of African attire:
West Africa
In Sahelian Africa, the dashiki, Senegalese kaftan, and the grand boubou made from Bazin material are worn more prominently, though not exclusively (the Bògòlanfini, for instance, is worn in Mali). The dashiki is highly stylized and is rendered with an ornate V-shaped collar.
- Dashiki: This traditional attire originated from West Africa, particularly Nigeria. Dashiki is a colorful and loose-fitting shirt with ornate embroidery patterns, often made from cotton fabric. Dashikis are stylish, and colorful, and have become a symbol of African cultural identity.
- Boubou: As the suit is to Europe, so is the boubou to Africa. The Boubou is a wide, classic, stylish, and flowing gown commonly worn in West Africa, particularly Senegal and Mali. Boubous are a wardrobe staple for West African communities and beyond.
- Aso Oke: This is one of the most prestigious hand-woven cloths created by the Yoruba people of West Africa. It is traditionally woven from cotton, red imported silk, and domestic wild raw silk. The women wear it as a blouse (buba), a wrapped skirt (iro), a head tie (gele), and a shoulder sash.
- Kente: One of the most dramatic and colorful fabrics, Kente is native to the people of Ghana. Each design has a significant meaning that reflects the cultural values of Ghanaians as well as historical events. Kente was originally made and worn only by royals and is often used for special occasions and ceremonies.
Represented by the Yoruba people of Nigeria, the Iro Ati Buba is a traditional Yoruba outfit for women. It consists of a white, long sleeve shirt with a unique necktie. The cloth has a variety of colours, including white, maroon, and black. For the Yoruba people, their traditional clothes have different meanings.
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North Africa
In Northeastern Africa, particularly in Egypt, styles of traditional women's clothing have been influenced by Middle Eastern cultures; this can be exemplified by the simply embroidered jelabiya which are similarly worn in Arab states of the Persian Gulf. The djellaba (worn in Northwest Africa) shares similar properties with the boubou, the dashiki, and the Senegalese kaftan.
- Djellaba: The djellaba or jillaba also written gallabea is a long, hooded robe worn by both men and women in North Africa, particularly Morocco. Traditionally, the main material for designing djellabas is wool.
East Africa
In East Africa, the kanzu is the traditional dress worn by Swahili-speaking men.
- Kanzu: The Kanzu is a long-sleeved robe that men in Kenya traditionally wear. The Kanzu dresses are worn for occasions. Kanzus are white or cream African traditional clothing worn by men in the African Great Lakes region. It is especially popular in Uganda, where men wear it to weddings and festivals.
- Kanga: Also called Leso in Kenya, Kanga is an African print fabric that originated in East Africa and is worn by women and occasionally by men, majorly in Swahili-speaking countries.
- Shuka: Popularly called the ‘African Blanket’, the Maasai Shuka is a traditional cloth worn by the Maasai people in East Africa, primarily Kenya, and Tanzania.
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In the Horn of Africa, the attire varies by country. In Ethiopia, men wear the Ethiopian suit and women wear the habesha kemis. In Somalia, men wear the khamis with a small cap called a koofiyad.
- Habesha Kemis: The Habesha Kemis is African traditional clothing belonging to the Habesha women of Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. Habesha Kemis is usually a robe that stretches from the neck to the ankles. Ethiopian and Eritrean women rock it for formal events and vacations.
Southern Africa
In Southern Africa, distinctive shirts are worn, like the long dresses they wear. The Republic of South Africa, with an estimate of more than 57 million people from countless backgrounds, ethnicities and religions, holds in it an immense cultural diversity that is expressed through the vast array of topics ranging from cuisine, music, languages to celebrations.
- Isidwaba: This traditional, leather skirt, is worn by married, Zulu women. It is made from genuine leather which could either be cowhide or goatskin. It is usually given as a gift by the father of the bride which she wears on her wedding day.
- Xhosa attire (Isikhakha or UmBhaco): The centerpiece for women is a long skirt (isikhakha) made from cotton or wool, often dyed with red ochre, symbolizing a connection to the earth and ancestors. This is paired with a decorative apron and a white blouse adorned with black bias binding.
- Isiagu: This traditional attire is well-known in Igbo culture. It features intricate lion’s head patterns and is usually worn during special events, such as weddings and chieftaincy titles, among others.
One of the earliest vestiges of South African attire was traced back to around 2000 years ago when Middle Paleolithic population descendants, the Khoisan, settled in Cape Peninsula in the south-western extremity of the African continent.
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Colonization starting from the mid seventeenth century undoubtedly changed South Africa in all aspects, and fashion together all those changes was influenced heavily by the arrival of new materials from Europe as well as the Eurocentric view about the body and clothing, perceiving that South Africans dressed like necked imposed changes on traditional fashion of these indigenous groups of people.
In the early nineteenth century, glass beads and plastic beads from Europe added new materials to the traditional collection of materials that South African indigenous people used to make beadworks. Around the late nineteenth century, Isishweshwe fabric was introduced to South Africa through importation from England and Germany.
During this era of classifying people by their ethnicities and races, unique dress of each South African indigenous community served to make that community distinct. However, besides that, wearing traditional dress also acted as a way for South African coloured people to express their resistance and displeasure with the government ruled by a minority of white people.
While traditional dresses were worn as part of expressing one's identity, South African fashion in the apartheid period witnessed the continuing growth of influence from European fashion. Pre-apartheid fashion in South Africa depended heavily on European fashion import whereas post-apartheid fashion celebrated one's ethnicity through many South African designers bringing a touch of Africa to European style clothing.
After the apartheid period ended in 1994, South African traditional dresses continue to be the way to express pride in one's nation and identity as well as an enormous source of inspiration for famous fashion brands such as Sun Goddess, Stoned Cherrie and Strangelove.
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The Influence of Second-hand Clothing
European influence is commonly found in African fashion as well. For example, Ugandan men have started to wear "full length trousers and long-sleeved shirts". On the other hand, women have started to adapt influences from "19th-century Victorian dress". This style of dress is called a busuti. Another popular trend is to pair a piece of modern western clothing, such as T-shirts with traditional wraps.
Rural communities have also started to incorporate secondhand western clothing into their everyday style. There exist non-profit organizations in all western societies that sell used clothes to for-profit companies in Africa. These used clothing are called Mitumba in some areas and are surrounded by controversy.
Countries in sub-Saharan Africa are one of the top destinations for the import of used clothing. Although used clothing was commonly sent for the lower class communities, it is now commonly found within other social classes in Africa. This is because there was always a variety of clothing and it was a good price.
Another negative impact commonly argued is that the importation of western clothing leaves a negative impact on local clothing producers. However, the opposite side of the argument believes that the high importation creates new jobs for the people living in the port cities. These jobs include the sorting, washing, re-tailoring and transporting of the clothes to the markets.
Another impact that could be argued either negatively or positively, is that secondhand clothing has become more common to wear than classic African textiles. In Zambia, where it is known as salaula, secondhand clothing has basically become a new type of traditional clothing. Since Zambians have been wearing more western clothes, traditional textiles and crafts have seemed to become scarce.
Contemporary Trends
As of 2016, there has been a boom in the development shops, clothing boutiques, hotels, as well as major restaurants in Accra, Ghana. As time passed there has been more recognition for the development of art through the creation of fashion in countries such as Kenya, Morocco, Nigeria, and South Africa.
While there is a global disconnect between the western world and their interpretation of African fashion through the use of tribal patterns, many designers have risen and made an impact on the high-end fashion industry by putting a twist on their traditional African garments. More specifically Johannesburg's development in making an impact on the fashion industry has been more intentional.
Conversion of the established and developing fashion houses has built international respect for South Africa with the fashion industry, making South Africa's Fashion Week a major destination in the worldwide fashion takeover at the beginning of each spring/summer and fall/winter season.
African dress styles are a vibrant fusion of tradition, culture, and imagination, showcasing diverse heritage and artistic flair. Ankara and Kitenge are two popular African textiles known for their vibrant colors, bold prints, and cultural significance.
African streetwear and urban fashion have gained traction in recent years, with designers drawing inspiration from street culture, music, and art to create bold and innovative designs.
As awareness of environmental and social issues grows, there has been a growing movement towards sustainable fashion and ethical practices within the African fashion industry. In addition to promoting environmental sustainability, sustainable fashion also celebrates cultural heritage and supports local communities, empowering artisans and preserving traditional craftsmanship for future generations.
Traditional African clothing represents one of-if not the biggest-symbols of the continent’s rich cultural heritage and diversity. Often, these dresses reflect the traditional society and the status of certain individuals or groups within an ethnic group. Apart from their elegance, owning one of these traditional African clothes can help you to connect to your roots.
Fabrics for making traditional African clothing vary from one region to another. African clothes are products of mostly silk, cotton, and chiffon material.
There are several outlets for you to buy African fabrics. However, to be sure you are getting authentic textiles from top-class designers, visit only reputable outlets. Etsy and Amazon are great places to start.
| Clothing Item | Region | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Kente | Ghana | Colorful silk and cotton cloth, traditionally worn by royalty. |
| Dashiki | West Africa | Loose-fitting, colorful shirt with embroidered V-shaped collar. |
| Boubou | West Africa | Wide, flowing gown worn by both men and women. |
| Kanzu | East Africa | Long-sleeved robe worn by Swahili-speaking men. |
| Djellaba | North Africa | Long, hooded robe worn by both men and women. |
| Isidwaba | Southern Africa | Leather skirt worn by married Zulu women. |
| Shuka | East Africa | Traditional cloth worn by the Maasai people. |
