The spiny flower mantis, Pseudocreobotra wahlbergi, is a fascinating species for any insect enthusiast. Native to Sub-Saharan Africa, these mantises are known for their unique appearance and relatively straightforward care requirements.
Pseudocreobotra is a genus of flower mantises that contains several species. Each species looks strikingly similar to each other in color and appearance, but vary slightly in size. All specimens in this genus are native to Sub-Saharan Africa, and have near identical care requirements.
This species does not have very high demands in terms of humidity, therefore, the are best suited for screen or mesh cages. They will often prefer a simple enclosure with silk plants (such as an Ivy Branch, Leafy Branch, Orchid Flower, or White Flower) and an easily disposable substrate such as sphagnum moss, or even just a paper towel that you can change once a week.
Adult female Pseudocreobotra wahlbergii. Image by Didier Descouens.
We do not recommend housing this species communally.
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Ideal Environment
Spiny Flower mantises are native to sub-Saharan Africa, so the ideal temperature for this species is about 80-85°F, but they can tolerate a range between 75°F and 87°F. Humidity should be kept between 40% and 60% relative humidity (RH). The enclosure should be given a light misting once a day so they can drink.
Most mantises do not like getting sprayed directly, so it is best to try and spray around the mantis, but if you get them a little wet by accident, it is usually no big deal. Use spring water, distilled water, or water filtered by reverse osmosis (RO), but do not use plain tap water. The enclosure should be given a light misting at least once a day so that your mantis can drink. When kept in mesh cages, we mist the enclosure twice a day.
Enclosure Type: Arboreal; The enclosure should be at least 3 times the height of the mantis (space taken up by substrate does not count towards this) and 2 times the width. Make sure the container is very well ventilated and if possible have cross ventilation. There should be at least 1 stick that reaches to the top of the enclosure for the mantis to perch on but if possible add more just know that I would recommend extra sticks and maybe even a plant to give your mantis some extra enrichment.
The top of the enclosure should be made from some sort of fabric mesh (many types of fabric will work) which the mantis can hang upside down from. Do not use metal mesh as it can be dangerous and potentially rip off the mantises leg when it tries to molt or move around. Enclosures made out of 32 oz. deli cups or from large plastic jars are popular and inexpensive options. Exo Terras are also a good option if you want to spend the money and they can look incredible once set up.
Substrate: Coco fiber or sphagnum moss are both easy to obtain and and good options for substrate. If using either of these options make sure to spot clean poop daily and completely change the substrate every 6 months. It is also possible to do a bioactive set up which can go years without needing any type of substrate change and will not need to be spot cleaned as the clean-up crew will take care of the poop and mold.
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Feeding
These mantises have strong forearms, and a big appetite while they are growing up, and therefore can handle rather large prey compared to their body sizes. They will not chase after food though, as they are not a very active species. Instead they prefer to remain completely still, disguised as part of the environment, waiting to strike when an unsuspecting insect walks by.
Feeding: L1-L4 should be fed fruit flies. L5-Adult can be fed green/bluebottle flies, house flies, dubia roaches, red runner roaches, meal worms, or wax worms but green/blue bottle and house flies are the best option. While it is possible to feed crickets, they can contain harmful bacteria which could potentially kill your mantis so they should be avoided if possible. This mantis should be fed every other day until it reaches subadult.
Here's a simple feeding guide:
| Life Stage | Recommended Food |
|---|---|
| L1-L2 Nymphs | Drosophila fruit flies |
| L3-L4 Nymphs | Drosophila fruit flies |
| L5-Adult | Green/Bluebottle Flies, House Flies, Dubia Roaches |
L1 through L2 nymphs: Should be fed D. L3 and L4 nymphs: Should be fed D.
Behavior and Social Needs
Behavior: As ambush predators this species spends much of its life setting very still, but don't be fooled these mantis can move quite quickly.
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Social: No; this species is highly cannibalistic.
Life span: 10-14 mo. (Keeping the mantis in higher temperatures and feeding it more often can speed up maturity.
With the right care and attention, the African Flower Mantis can be a rewarding and fascinating addition to any insect collection.
