The Black community has had a consistent and enduring influence on the fashion industry, but while some trends have been attributed to Black designers, often the origins are left largely uncredited. During Black History Month, Holly Alford, director of inclusion and equity for the Virginia Commonwealth University School of the Arts, shared her insights on the history of Black fashion in the United States and how that impact can still be seen today.
Stylish African-American clothing flatters your one-of-a-kind style. Your style is always on trend and always uniquely you. At Ashro, we help you show off your fabulous flair with African-American clothing designed to make a sophisticated statement wherever you go. Caftans, women’s jacket dresses and a selection of plus-size clothing come in rich colors, heritage prints and flattering fits to highlight your beauty. Fill your wardrobe with a variety of looks to suit your different moods! Classy dress suits for women are designed in both powerful and playful silhouettes, helping you switch your work and out-on-the-town style with ease.
Black fashion and history have woven a rich tapestry of influence and inspiration that affects contemporary style. Black culture has a profound impact on style and an undeniable role in shaping modern trends. In America, fashion for Black people has had an evolution steeped in oppression, resilience, and resistance. During the era of slavery and emancipation, African Americans were provided with plain, coarse clothing and very few options. This evolution laid the groundwork for a rich tradition of expressive fashion that would play a critical role in cultural identity and political movements.
The history of Black fashion in the United States can be traced as far back as slavery. Holly Alford, director of inclusion and equity and senior director of design in the VCU School of the Arts. “If I'm from Africa, I'm going to weave and make quilts from my culture,” Alford said.
African American Fashion Through the Decades
Read also: Experience Fad's Fine African Cuisine
The Harlem Renaissance: A Cultural Explosion
More commonly understood is the widespread effect of the Harlem Renaissance on fashion in the 1920s, according to Alford. She noted that Vogue magazine was among the crucial tastemakers taking their cues from Black fashion trends at the time. Flapper dresses and zoot suits are two of the most notable and influential clothes to originate in the Black community during the 1920s. Harlem Renaissance photographer James Van Der Zee captures the jazz style of the era. This era, centered in Harlem, New York, witnessed a bold assertion of African American identity mirrored in the emerging distinctive styles. Women embraced the flapper aesthetic with a twist, incorporating beaded dresses, feathered headbands, and fur coats, radiating glamour and liberation. On the other hand, men often donned loose-fitting suits with long jackets and high-waist trousers, accessorized with wide-brimmed hats, showing a blend of style and defiance. 1920s fashion icons like Josephine Baker would inspire women’s fashion thanks to her short hair and famous banana skirt.
Alford’s research publications include an article, “The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence,” which appeared in Fashion Theory.
Recognition and the Civil Rights Era
Alford said many Black designers from the 1920s into the 1960s are now recognized today for the work they did and its impact - though that recognition often eluded them at the time. However, she said Black designers, such as Ann Lowe, who designed Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress, began to get a little more recognition starting in the 1960s. The 1960s also brought the social movement of the Civil Rights Era, including the emergence of the Black Panthers.
Civil Rights protesters and a Woolworth’s Sit-In in Durham, North Carolina in 1960. Fashion has played a pivotal role in Black social movements as a powerful tool for self-expression, resistance, and identity affirmation. Women wearing their natural hair in the Black Panther Party circa 1970. During the Civil Rights Movement during the 1950s and 1960s, the nonviolent protestors dressed in their Sunday best. Men donned sharp suits and ties as a form of armor, while women wore dresses and hats, echoing the respectability and dignity of their cause.
The Black Power Movement and Fashion
Alford said the Black Panthers influenced fashion with all-black and all-leather outfits, the dashiki and afros. “As Black is beautiful becomes extremely popular, it transcends into fashion and into how people want to dress and how people want to look,” Alford said. “I will never forget watching ‘The Brady Bunch’ one time and watching Mike Brady with an afro,” she said. In contrast, the Black Power Movement from the 1960s and 1970s encouraged a bolder sartorial statement that embraced cultural heritage and strength. The dashiki, with its vibrant colors and African patterns, became a symbol of African heritage. Meanwhile, the powerful imagery of the black leather jacket, beret, and raised fists became associated with the Black Panthers. Natural hairstyles such as the afro defied society’s standards of straightened hair.
Read also: The Story Behind Cachapas
One of the largest influences in fashion for persons of color was Ebony Magazine and The Ebony Fashion Fair Show, Alford said. While the magazine was geared toward a Black audience, it featured many non-Black designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Emilio Pucci. The magazine, also, made styles such as hoop earrings a fashion statement.
The Battle of Versailles
Alford said one memorable moment that put Black models on the main stage was an event called the Battle of Versailles, which took place in 1973. The event included extravagant sets and singing but no catwalk. At the time, models would stand and pose in one spot during fashion shows. When the American designers arrived, they realized they had made the measurements for the sets in inches, not centimeters. Not knowing what to do, they decided to let the girls walk to show off the beauty of the clothes in movement. “She said the crowd went crazy. When they wore Stephen Burrows knit outfits, the fabric moved along the body, really showcasing the clothes,” Alford said. The women were eventually recognized and honored for their contributions by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “And this is why for years, you have Bethann Hardison and Naomi Campbell complaining about women of color not being on the runway,” Alford said.
Dapper Dan and Logomania
One Black designer who changed the face of luxury fashion forever was Dapper Dan. Alford said Dapper Dan is cited with utilizing monogram print excessively, also known as logomania. Dapper Dan during an interview in December 2019. She said in the 1980s and ‘90s, Dapper Dan would place luxury logos or other brand symbols on fabric. Dapper Dan did not have the permission of the brands he used in the designs, and he was eventually raided in the late 1990s for using Louis Vuitton and Gucci logos without their permission. In 2017, Gucci made a jacket that looked similar to one Dapper Dan did in the ‘90’s. Gucci was called out on social media for stealing Dapper Dan’s idea, Alford said.
Dapper Dan's influence on fashion
Hip Hop's Influence
Just as the punk movement had been widely influential starting in the mid-1970s, such as by popularizing Dr. Martens boots, she said, hip hop also had a far-reaching impact on fashion. Hip hop’s emphasis on dancing led to athletic wear and baggy clothing growing extremely popular. She said coming out of the 1980s no one wanted to wear tight pants. “It became an extremely popular movement which really just started because Black kids were like, ‘They’re too tight. These larger sizes were easy to dance and pop and lock in and eventually led to the popularity of sagging pants. “Many give credit to the godfather of Urban Street wear, Karl Kani, who upped the waist sizes when creating his line,” Alford said. “Black men don’t like tight pants. If you bought a 34, it fit like a 36. During her travels around the world, Alford has seen variations of this fashion choice, including observing cases of kids sewing their boxers to their pants so they don’t sag down too far. Originally Alford said the hip hop trend was to wear large T-shirts, which hid the sagging. It became important to wear stylish underwear. In the ‘90s, Calvin Klein was on the verge of bankruptcy, Alford said. He would be the first to showcase what is now the boxer brief with his name on the waist band. Klein placed rapper Marky Mark - Mark Wahlberg - with supermodel Kate Moss in an ad with him sagging his pants with the brands name on the waist band. By the 2000’s, the trend could be seen on the luxury runways.
Read also: Techniques of African Jewellery
Hip Hop Fashion Evolution
Rapper Lil Kim performs on stage in a tracksuit and gold jewelry. Hip-hop fashion has profoundly transformed since its inception in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Iconic rappers like Lil Kim, LL Cool J, and Notorious B.I.G. The 2000s saw the rise of hip-hop moguls launching their own brands, cementing the genre’s influence on global fashion trends. Air Jordans are some of the most iconic sneaker styles. Sneaker culture is a cornerstone of streetwear and hip-hop fashion, capturing a blend of aesthetics, personal identity, and social status.
Hip Hop Influences Mainstream
“Then you start seeing what happens when hip hop fashion starts to influence mainstream,” Alford said. “It was a fringe in fashion. She attributes one of the reasons that it is no longer fringe to the influence of Virgil Abloh, Matthew Williams and Jerry Lorenzo. “Virgil Abloh just passed, but he was the creative director for Louis Vuitton Men. He brought that entire hip hop look to Louis Vuitton,” she said. “Matthew Williams is now the creative director for Givenchy. Alford said hip hop fashion designers who moved into luxury menswear have changed the face of what menswear looks like.
Louis Vuitton men’s creative director Pharrell Williams. The fashion landscape has been shaped significantly by the pioneering work of Black designers. In more recent years, a burgeoning wave of black-owned fashion brands are redefining the industry norms. Fashion is inclusive and accessible to a diverse range of consumers. Telfar, founded by Telfar Clemens, is celebrated for its unisex designs and democratic approach to fashion, famously earning the adoration of icons like Beyoncé.
Global Appreciation and Appropriation
Alford traveled the world widely from about 2007 to 2015. During that time, there was a resurgence of hip hop fashion in Japan, with men wearing afros and picks in their hair, she said. In 2007, Nissan ran an ad with Japanese people in a barber shop, some with dreads and one person getting their hair braided. “Black Americans went off. That's not the Black experience, right? It's Black appropriation. It's not the experience,” Alford said. She received funding to go to Japan to explore trends there related to Black fashion and culture, including investigating where people were shopping, how they were getting their hair braided, and how they were even wearing makeup to darken their face. In Takashima Dori, one of the fashion centers of Tokyo, she found stores for every substyle from Elegant Lolita Fashion to hip hop. In one of the back areas of Takashima Dori was a store called “Black Annie.” The store sold items that had to do with Black culture. “Their attitude was like, ‘This is what I love. I love hip hop culture. She said there’s a fine line between appropriation and appreciation and wanting to wear black style. For example, wearing sagging pants.
“I’ve noticed that even golfers sag their pants while playing,” Alford said. “I had to think about it and I said, ‘You know, at least they recognize it's Black style,’” Alford said. “There was a recognition in some countries of Black style, and that people wanted to wear the ‘Black style’ to pay homage to a cultural way of dressing that they wanted to wear and emulate (appreciation),” Alford said.
ATL Tailor: Tailoring Identity
In Atlanta, style isn’t just an accessory-it’s a declaration. At ATL Tailor, we honor the influence of Black fashion not as outsiders looking in, but as collaborators in expression. We feel the confidence of Michelle Obama’s plum coat woven into the custom overcoats we design today. This isn’t just a retrospective. It’s a reminder of how style becomes statement, and how tailoring becomes tribute. The following are ways that ATL Tailor pays tribute:
- Wide shoulders. Billowing pants. Razor-sharp tailoring: The Zoot Suit of the 1940s wasn’t just a style-it was a form of protest. At ATL Tailor, this legacy lives on in bold silhouettes designed for clients who command the room.
- African-Inspired Textiles: The late 1960s and ’70s marked a shift as African Americans looked toward their heritage for style inspiration. Today, we craft garments for clients who request custom linings, trims, or even outerwear featuring African-inspired textiles. Incorporating these elements into modern tailoring is not a costume-it’s a celebration.
- Complementing Natural Hairstyles: While not a garment, the Afro became one of the most powerful style symbols of the 20th century. As tailors, we pay attention to the full presentation. Clients with natural hairstyles often seek designs that complement volume and shape-from extended collar widths to balanced jacket proportions. The message?
- Josephine Baker's Influence: Before there was red carpet glam, there was Josephine Baker. Her sleek silhouettes, feathered ensembles, and daring stage looks helped define 1920s Parisian chic. When clients come to ATL Tailor asking for Old Hollywood inspiration with a modern edge, we channel Baker’s sensibility.
- Dapper Dan's Ethos: Harlem legend Dapper Dan didn’t wait for high fashion to open its doors-he kicked them open with custom jackets and suits made from repurposed luxury logos. Today, Dapper Dan collaborates with Gucci. And at ATL Tailor, we’re constantly inspired by his ethos: tailored clothing should reflect your identity, not erase it.
- Hip-Hop’s Sartorial Evolution: From Run-D.M.C. Track suits, gold chains, Kangol hats-hip-hop in the ’80s and ’90s created a distinct look that married grit and flash. The crossover from stage to red carpet demanded versatility. ATL Tailor answers that call by crafting performance wear, award-show attire, and casual-luxe sets for clients in entertainment.
- Beyoncé's Statements: Every Beyoncé appearance is a masterclass in styling. But her 2016 Super Bowl tribute to the Black Panthers was more than fashion-it was statement. That moment inspired a wave of clients looking for garments that balance elegance with purpose.
- Rihanna's Fearless Approach: From crystal-studded gowns to oversized streetwear silhouettes, Rihanna plays by her own rules. Her 2015 Met Gala look in a 55-pound Guo Pei robe or her Savage X Fenty lingerie shows? For our most daring clients, Rihanna is muse and permission. We’ve built asymmetrical suits, exaggerated sleeve jackets, and gender-fluid looks inspired by her fearless approach.
- Virgil Abloh's Irony: As the first Black artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear, Virgil Abloh broke barriers with Off-White’s deconstructed looks and cultural commentary. Abloh showed that tailoring could have quotation marks, irony, and intention. For our younger clients, he’s a touchstone.
- Michelle Obama's Power Dressing: Her style during the White House years-and especially her plum Sergio Hudson coat at the 2021 inauguration-set a standard for power dressing. ATL Tailor draws on this elegance in our suiting for high-profile women in law, politics, and business.
In Atlanta, the influence of Black culture isn’t on the fringes-it’s at the center. From Cascade Road to Peachtree Street, fashion here is rich with story. We don’t just tailor garments. We tailor identity. From legacy-inspired overcoats to red-carpet-ready tuxedos, every custom suit and dress stitch carries culture.
Continuing Traditions
Known for breaking barriers, supermodel Naomi Campbell walks a runway show. Black supermodels have played a pivotal role in shaping the fashion industry as we know it. Headwraps celebrate cultural identity and heritage. The tradition of headwraps and African hairstyles in Black culture extends beyond mere fashion. They serve as symbols of identity, status, and community ties. Intricate braids, cornrows, and twists have been passed down throughout generations. They became tools of resistance and messages of solidarity among enslaved women. Today, they remain versatile fashion statements. Top model Anok Yai was discovered on social media. Social media and digital platforms have revolutionized how Black fashion is celebrated and disseminated globally.
What does the future hold for Black fashion? The story of Black fashion and history is a powerful reminder of how deeply culture influences style, merging past struggles with present creativity.
The Future of Black Fashion
