Converting the wheels of an Africa Twin to tubeless is a topic that has sparked considerable debate among motorcycle enthusiasts. This article delves into the various aspects of this conversion, exploring DIY methods, safety concerns, and aftermarket solutions.
The Allure of Tubeless Tires
Many riders are drawn to tubeless tires for their perceived advantages. The safety benefits of tubeless tires lie in their ability to lose air slowly in the event of a typical puncture. Unlike tubed tires, where a puncture can cause a sudden and complete loss of pressure due to the inner tube failing, tubeless tires tend to deflate gradually. This is because the air can only escape through the puncture hole, which is often blocked by the object that caused the puncture.
Furthermore, tubeless tires offer convenience in terms of puncture repair. As one user noted, "And as for ease of puncture repair? No contest."
The Challenge of Converting Spoked Wheels
While the benefits of tubeless tires are clear, converting spoked wheels, like those found on the Africa Twin, presents a unique set of challenges. The primary concern is that rims not designed for tubeless tires may not grip a deflated tire adequately, potentially leading to a sudden and dangerous loss of control. As Caminando points out, "Yes, as Caminando says the important point is that rims which are not designed to take tubeless tyres can't grip a delfated tyre with no tube present."
In a past discussion on Horizons Unlimited (HU), it was stated that if a tubeless conversion on a non-tubeless rim experiences a puncture, there could be a massive and sudden deflation. This is because, unlike a wheel designed for tubeless tires, there is nothing to hold the tire to the rim in a way that allows for a safe stop.
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Therefore, it's crucial to check if your Africa Twin runs tubeless rims before considering any conversion. Omar, you need to check if your AT runs tubeless rims.
DIY Tubeless Conversion Methods
Despite the challenges, some riders have attempted DIY tubeless conversions on their Africa Twin wheels. These methods typically involve sealing the spoke nipples and the rim bed to create an airtight barrier. Here's a breakdown of one such method:
- Apply a runny glue around the nipple and into the threaded center. Bostik is one option, but thinner glues may be better. Expect microbubbles.
- Overseal with a thicker sealant, such as clear Goop, a day later.
- Wrap the undried glue in the non-sticky side of masking tape to prevent sagging.
- Press down between the spoke nipples to ensure good contact between the tape and the rim floor.
- Apply sealant tape, such as 3M 4411N (avoiding the thicker 4412N).
Another method involves spraying on etching primer, letting it dry, and then applying a coat or two of Puraflex mastic. Some believe that the mastic sealant method is superior, as tape adhesive might lift in very hot conditions.
Mounting the tire after the conversion is similar to mounting a regular tubeless tire. Soapy beads can help reduce the effort needed. Because there is no inner tube pushing the tire onto the rim, both edges of the tire need to make a partial seal with the rim to allow pressure to build up.
It's important to note that even with careful sealing, some pressure loss may occur over time. One user reported an initial pressure drop after a few days, which was later addressed with Slime.
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Aftermarket Solutions: Tubliss System
One aftermarket solution that has been mentioned is the Tubliss system. This system is primarily designed for off-road use and works by creating a seal against the inside of the tire itself, rather than relying on the rim. The inner bladder, which seals the tire, is pressurized to 100psi and is independent of the tire pressure, allowing for lower tire pressures to be run.
However, it's important to note that Tubliss is typically marketed for motocross and off-road applications. While it may seem like a useful product, there are considerations to keep in mind:
- Obtaining permits for modifying tires from tube to tubeless requires extensive testing, certifications, and investment.
- Companies like Tubliss may not be willing to invest in certification for on-road use due to the limited increase in sales.
Therefore, it's generally advised not to use Tubliss on tarmac due to insurance concerns and safety considerations. As one user emphasized, "So, I'd say: don't use it on tarmac, 1st due to insurance concerns, 2nd for safety, since it's labeled 'for off road use' and your insurance won't cover a penny."
Tubeless Wheel Conversion for my Africa Twin
Safety Considerations and Recommendations
The primary safety concern with tubeless conversions on rims not designed for tubeless tires is the risk of sudden deflation. In the event of a puncture, the tire may not stay seated on the rim, leading to a loss of control.
Given these risks, it's important to weigh the potential benefits against the safety concerns. If you're considering a tubeless conversion, it's crucial to:
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- Ensure your rims have the 'MT' safety lip or ridge, which is designed to help retain the tire in the event of a puncture.
- Use high-quality sealant tape and sealants to create an airtight barrier.
- Monitor tire pressure regularly, especially after the conversion.
- Consider the intended use of the bike. Tubeless conversions may be more suitable for off-road riding, where lower tire pressures are often desired.
Ultimately, the decision to convert to tubeless tires is a personal one. It's important to do your research, understand the risks, and choose the method that best suits your needs and riding style.
Alternative: Sticking with Tubes
For some riders, the risks associated with tubeless conversions may outweigh the benefits. In such cases, sticking with tubes may be the safest and most reliable option. As one user suggested, "just practice patching your inner tube, and leave it all original."
While tubes may be more prone to punctures, they offer a predictable and manageable failure mode. With proper maintenance and regular inspection, tubes can provide a safe and reliable riding experience.
The Africa Twin Specifics
If ever a bike wanted tubeless wheels it’s the AT (and T7 for that matter). These bikes run 21-inch fronts and were initially pitched at a low price to get them moving. Choppers aside, cast wheels are unknown in 21-inch, while OE spoked tubeless wheels (as on many European 21-inch advs) are expensive.
Like nearly all 21s, the AT’s front rim lacks the ‘MT’ safety lip or ridge which is important if planning to run tubeless tyres. Without it, a TL tyre seals less well on a regular WM rim and may leak. The only way around that it to get the rare, lipped, 2.15 x 21-inch Giant rim from CWC for £111.
Most rear wheels, tubed or tubeless, have been like this for decades (they will be stamped ‘MT’ on the side, as opposed to ‘WM’)
| Rim Type | Safety Lip | Suitability for Tubeless |
|---|---|---|
| MT | Yes | More Suitable |
| WM | No | Less Suitable |
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