Stone Town, also known as Mji Mkongwe ("old town" in Swahili), is the old part of Zanzibar City, located on the western coast of Unguja, the main island of the Zanzibar Archipelago. It is a city of prominent historical and artistic importance in East Africa.
A view of Stone Town, Zanzibar.
For the past 200 years, the Stone Town has managed to remain unsullied by the hand of modern culture. It is a perfect place for getting lost in the labyrinth of winding streets and alleyways and wandering through bustling bazaars for hours, discovering fascinating handiwork of the locals.
However, this was probably the biggest challenge and the most exciting journey for us, since the beginning of our travels. Unfortunately, the hotel we made reservations at was overbooked so, we spent the very beginning of our adventure searching for accommodation. This went on for two hours, and we were pretty exhausted.
A Fusion of Cultures: The Architecture of Stone Town
Its architecture, mostly dating back to the 19th century, reflects the diverse influences underlying the Swahili culture, giving a unique mixture of Arab, Persian, Indian and European elements. The heart of Stone Town mostly consists of a maze of narrow alleys lined by houses, shops, bazaars and mosques. Since most streets are too narrow for cars, the town is crowded with bicycles and motorbikes.
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Stone Town's architecture has a number of distinctive features, as a result of Arab, Persian, Indian, European, and African traditions mixing together. The name "Stone Town" comes from the ubiquitous use of coral stone as the main construction material; this stone gives the town a characteristic, reddish warm colour.
Traditional buildings have a baraza, a long stone bench along the outside walls; this is used as an elevated sidewalk if heavy rains make the streets impracticable, or otherwise as benches to sit down, rest, socialize. Another key feature of most buildings is large verandas protected by carved wooden balustrades.
The first thing you’ll notice are the doors! Brass-studded, carved and wooden they keep inviting curious tourists to come closer and open them. The best-known feature of Zanzibari houses are the finely decorated wooden doors, with rich carvings and bas-reliefs, sometimes with big brass studs of Indian tradition. Two main types of doors can be distinguished: those of Indian style have rounded tops, while those in the Omani Arab style are rectangular.
An example of a Zanzibari door with intricate carvings and brass studs.
Historical Landmarks: A Journey Through Time
Several key buildings stand as testaments to Stone Town's rich history:
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- The Old Fort (Ngome Kongwe): Adjacent to the House of Wonders, this heavy stone fortress was built in the 17th century by the Omanis. It was initially used as a defense against the Portuguese and the Mazrui, which is the reason why it is topped by castellated battlements.
- The House of Wonders (Beit el Ajaib): Built back in 1883, as a ceremonial palace for Sultan Barghash. Don’t worry; you can’t miss the House of Wonders. It is one of the largest buildings on the island. Since 2002, the House of Wonders houses the Museum of History and culture.
- The Old Dispensary: Also known as the Stone Town Cultural Centre, the Old Dispensary left us in awe with its decorative balconies. Tharia Topan commissioned it in 1887. Over the years, the Old Dispensary decayed. We already mentioned it before, when we talked about Zanzibar’s local building renovations and restorations. For the first half of the 20th century, this historic building served as a dispensary.
- The Anglican Cathedral Church of Christ: The Anglican cathedral of Christ Church, on Mkunazini Road, was built at the end of the 19th century by Edward Steere, third bishop of Zanzibar. The cathedral was constructed in a large area at the centre of Stone Town that previously hosted the biggest slave market of Zanzibar; the place was deliberately chosen to celebrate the end of slavery, and the altar was in the exact spot where the main whipping post of the market used to be.
- The Palace Museum: If you go down the Mizingani road, you will quickly notice the Palace Museum as it captures your attention with its magnificence. This stunning white building, which was originally called the Sultan’s Palace was built in the late 1890’s for members of the sovereign’s family. However, after the revolution in 1964, it was given a new name - the People’s Palace. Finally, in 1994 the building was turned into a museum, which you can visit today. It exhibits the history of Zanzibar’s Sultans.
The House of Wonders, a prominent landmark in Stone Town.
The Dark Chapter: The Slave Trade
The Stone Town was host to one of the world's last open slave markets, presided over by Arab traders until it was shut down by the British in 1873. The slaves were shipped here in dhows from the mainland, crammed so tightly that many fell ill and died or were thrown overboard.
Below St Monica's guesthouse, dozens of slaves, and women and children, were imprisoned for days in crowded cellars with little air and no food or toilets. Even after two minutes down there, under the low roof, the atmosphere seemed poisonously oppressive.
The guide said the slaves were led outside and lined up in order of size. They were tied to a tree and whipped with a stinging branch to test their mettle. Those who did not cry or faint fetched a higher price at market.
What now stands on the site? The Anglican Cathedral Church of Christ. The former whipping tree is marked at the altar by a white marble circle surrounded by red to symbolise the blood of the slaves.
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There is also a tribute to Dr David Livingstone, who stayed in Zanzibar before his final expedition. Some wood from the tree in Zambia under which his heart was buried has been fashioned into a cross that hangs in the cathedral. Outside, sunken in the ground, is an artwork: lifesize statues of slaves that could have been made by Antony Gormley, bearing original chains.
A memorial to the slaves in Stone Town, Zanzibar.
Dr. David Livingstone: A Key Figure
Dr. David Livingstone, a Scottish Christian Congregationalist, medical missionary and an explorer in Africa is an essential figure in the Stone Towns history. His house, which was initially built in 1860 for Sultan Majid, was used by many explorers as a starting point of their missions. If you want to get a fascinating insight into Zanzibar’s history, this is a place to go.
Exploring Stone Town: A Historical Walking Tour of Zanzibar's Cultural Heart
Also known as House of Peace, this mosque-like building will offer you a chance to dive into Zanzibar’s archaeology, history of early trade and slavery, architecture, lives of famous sultans, explorers, and missionaries. It even includes Dr. David Livingstone.
Practical Tips for Visiting Stone Town
- First of all, you have to be ready for humid and hot weather. It is probably hotter than you expect. So, drink a lot of water, dress light and expect beds with canopies.
- If you want to save some money, you should travel in the low season, which goes for all other places in the world, not just Africa. However, the high season in Zanzibar is from November to February. September is the optimal month to schedule your vacation in. It is a low season month, but it still has great weather.
- Looking for a place to eat? Our recommendation is Luk Maan. They have delicious food and great pricing. The service is a bit slow, but it is worth a wait. On the other hand, if you decide to go for the hotel breakfast, you will get lots and lots of fruits and smoothies, but also eggs and bacon.
- If you want to leave an island by ferry, you’ll need to book the ticket three days in advance.
The Market Experience
Looking for cheap clothing, tasty food or colorful souvenirs? If you are looking for something special to bring home, the market will offer you a huge selection of colorful khangas. At last, feel free to haggle! You won’t offend anyone, and you can get some great deals.
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