The 1950s was a transformative period for hairstyles, reflecting broader changes in society and fashion. For African Americans, hair was not only a statement of style but also a reflection of cultural identity and resilience.
Early Influences and Trends
The early 1900s laid the groundwork for Black hair care and styling. Before Madame C.J. Walker became known as the first Black woman millionaire in America, Annie Turnbo Malone debuted her Wonderful Hair Grower products in 1902, designed to improve scalp health and promote hair growth. Walker was one of her sales girls and started her own iconic haircare brand in 1905. In 1909, Garrett Morgan accidentally developed the first chemical relaxer after discovering a formula while working on sewing machines.
During the Roaring Twenties, Black hair trends included short flapper-esque haircuts, wavy bobs, and finger waves. Black women in the 1940s continued to wear their hair short and straight with added curls. Other popular styles were Victory Rolls, the chignon, the croquignole curl, pageboys, and wavy hair.
The Rise of Hair Straightening
African-American hair with natural tight curls were not in style in the 1950s. Curly bobs required straightening, then pin curling hair with a light comb-out for fullness. Sleek styles like the page boy, Italian, and bouffant were a bit easier to style. For black women who were able to grow hair long, updos were especially praised.
Hair straightening was done at home or in a black beauty salon specializing in chemical straightening that began to emerge in the late 1950s. Hairstyling oils and pomades advertised as being “non-greasy” were marketed to the black beauty market. “It [hair] always must look beautiful -naturally soft and smooth and lustrous,” says the Dixie-Peach pomade ad below. "Natural" meant like white women’s hair.
Read also: Style, Culture, and Identity in 1930s African American Hair
Wearing wigs became a quicker and easier way to sport the latest black hairstyles without using permanent or temporary straightening. Singers Sarah Vaughan and Dinah Washington became the faces for home straighter Perma-Strate brand, but in real life, they often wore straight hair wigs styled into whatever look was in vogue that year.
How to do 1950s Poodle Hair
Popular Hairstyles for Women
Women’s 1950s hair came in short, medium, and long styles, matching the personality of the wearer. Short for the typical housewife, medium for the young, long for Hollywood pin ups. Short was in! Women chopped off their shoulder length and long locks in the early ’50s in favor of the new short bob. Some 1950s hairstyles were as short as the flapper bob, but the ’50s bob was fuller and more dramatic like the small hats that sat on a 1950s woman’s head.
In 1952, salons were reporting 3 out of 5 haircuts were being cut into the Poodle clip. The trend started in the ’40s with actress Betty Grable, whose long hair was tightly curled and upswept into a poof on top of the head. Lucile Ball continued the hairstyle in the ’50s, at first gathering hair up on top, then a bit shorter with curls combed to the side, and finally shortening her hair further into an all over curly bob.
In 1953 the short, curly, but not poodle hair was introduced as the Italian cut. It was only an inch or so longer than the poodle clip, but the curls were tousled instead of tight, with spit curls to frame the face and the neckline. As the decade progressed, Italian cuts blended with other styles like the bouffant to create more volume and a rounder shape.
Long Hair and Updos
While long hair was rare for women in the 1950s, but it was not unheard of. Long hair was still popular with teens and young women as well as much older women who refused to follow short hair trends. However, long hair was rarely left down. After age 20, women were encouraged to take on a mature look with hair that was styled off the shoulders.
Read also: Stylish Pixie Cuts
For evenings and fancy afternoon events, women with long hair created a classy updo. Women with short hair usually didn’t have enough hair to make an updo so they just styled their short hair as nicely as possible. Fluffy hairstyles were often smoothed back on the sides and puffed up on top giving the illusion of an updo.
The French twist is one of my favorite quick and easy updos for long hair. Hair was pulled back after styling the front with a wave(s) or sleek top (not tight, just smooth). The hair was then twisted inward, making a roll that covered the entire back of the head. It was smooth on one side and smooth to the roll on the other. For thick hair, a double French twist was a better option. Hair was divided, then twisted into a roll from each side and joined in the middle.
The classic chignon was modernized in the 1950s. Essentially, it is a bun made of hair twisted and rolled into a circle. It could also be a pony tail with the ends tucked under the middle and fanned out to the sides. For women with short hair, a chignon bun or braid could be purchased separately and pinned to the hair.
Men's Hairstyles: The Pompadour and Beyond
While the pompadour is probably one of the most popular mens hairstyles from the 1950s-60s, it wasn’t the only one around for black males. A conk. What is it exactly? Imagine the underside of a conch shell, but on your head.
Simply put, they just cut their hair into the shape of a pompadour. But it takes more than just cutting it into the shape. The hair in the front is longer than the rest of the hair.
Read also: Hairstyles for Black Women
Accessories and Finishing Touches
Hair scarves, headbands, and bandanas were often paired with pony tails, page boys, and some bobs. A wide ribbon was placed over the crown and tied at the base of the neck. Bangs were softly draped in front with and curled ends flopping forward. In the late ’50s, it was the thin plastic headband that replaced the soft ribbon headband. A thin scarf could also be tied up on top into a big bow.
| Accessory | Description |
|---|---|
| Hair Scarves | Paired with pony tails, page boys, and bobs. |
| Headbands | Replaced soft ribbon headbands in the late '50s. |
| Hair Flowers | Worn by teens initially, then became popular for all women in 1955. |
The Emergence of Natural Hair
True natural African American hair was just starting to be worn in the 1950s, preparing for a revival in the ’60s. The 1950s introduced the first sew-in hair weaving process, developed by Christina Jenkins, and patented in 1951. Jenkins developed the idea of attaching hair to a net which was then sewn onto the client’s cornrow base and thus evolved what she referred to as ‘Hairweeve’.
Casual '50s Black Fashion: Hairstyles & Grooming
- For Men: In the 1950s, African American men often wore neatly groomed short hair. Some styled their hair in pompadours, while others used processed hair for a sleek, straight look.
- For Women: Women’s hairstyles included soft curls and pin curls for a feminine, polished look. Short pixie cuts provided a chic, modern style, and pin-up-inspired updos were popular for special events.
Modern Movements
Thankfully, recent progress made in the fight to end hair discrimination. In July 2019, California became the first state to pass a bill banning natural hair discrimination with the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open Workplace for Natural Hair Act). This act protects hair texture and protective hairstyles including cornrows, afros, braids, twists, and dreadlocks against discrimination in the workplace and educational institutions. Sen. Holly J.
