Black hair has a rich and diverse history, reflecting cultural shifts, fashion trends, and societal changes. In this journey through time, we'll delve into the fascinating world of historical hairstyles, celebrating the iconic black hair trends that have left an indelible mark on each decade.
The Roaring Twenties: The Rise of the Finger Wave
The 1920s marked the era of the Roaring Twenties, where flapper fashion and jazz music dominated the scene. Black women embraced the stylish finger wave, a chic and glamorous hairstyle that perfectly complemented the spirit of the time.
While those embracing flapper fashion could do their short, bobbed hairstyles in a plethora of ways, one popular way to add a little pizazz to the look was to do finger waves. Because this style uses heat, Black women could manipulate their hair into this style as well.
The Harlem Renaissance: Natural Hair and Artistic Expression
Between the 1920s and mid to late 1930s, an artistic explosion took place in Harlem, New York. More popularly known as the “Harlem Renaissance,” this historical period gave us a slew of iconic artists, films, plays, music and fashion and beauty. As the cultural renaissance flourished in Harlem during the 1930s, black men and women began to embrace their natural hair. This era saw the emergence of sculptural styles and creative expressions of individuality.
The 1930s was the Golden Age of Hollywood. And if you look among some of the Black actors of the time, like Dorothy Van Engle and Ethel Moses, it’s easy to see the hairstyle of the day-gentle waves and loose curls. If anything, the 1930s had a similar look to the 1920s, only the curls and the length were less extreme.
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Here are some of the iconic women who began their careers and became hair icons during this era:
- Ethel Waters: The blues and gospel singer always looked put together while making strides in the entertainment industry. Ethel was one of the most popular Black performers in the 1920’s and 1930’s.
- Billie Holiday: Lady Day rarely posed without a flower in her hair. But make no mistake: she could style her hair any which way.
- Nina Mae McKinney: Dubbed the “Black Greta Garbo,” McKinney gained notoriety through her work on the international stage.
Zora Neale Hurston’s novel Their Eyes Were Watching God about a woman torn by love and loss, was published in 1937 but it still remains Hurston’s prominent novel and one of most notable works of twentieth-century American literature.
Long Hair in the 1930s
Most ’30s hairstyles began with a chin-length cut. Women who had longer hair could style these same “short” looks with the help of a professional hairstylist. Just like in the ’20s, women used the chignon bun to gather up long hair off the neck. The chignon was smooth and flat and pinned tightly to the head. There were also numerous tricks to wave or roll long hair and sweep it up and around in sections all over the head, giving the overall appearance of short waved hair.
One trendy medium length hairstyle was the Pageboy. Greta Garbo favored the style for her mostly straight hair. The pageboy featured a side part, smooth flat top, and was straight or waved all around, with ends either curled under at shoulder length for a polished look or frizzy curled for a carefree ease.
Similar to the pageboy, the long bob was popular in the mid to late 1930s. Women’s hair was parted from the side or in the center with a smooth flat top and tons of big fluffy curls from the eyes on down to the shoulders. This was an easy style for long haired ladies. Simply pin curling long hair and then combing out the curls into fluff brought length up above the shoulders and gave it a “short” hair look. In the front, ladies could have short bangs or layered curls up the sides.
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The longest of ’30s long hairstyles was little more than an extra long curly bob. It was the signature look of Hollywood starlet Ginger Rogers. She had lovely, long, thick hair that curled into volumes of curly goodness from her ears down. Marlene Dietrich also had a long hairstyle with bouncy curls, although her hair was naturally straight and thin. Other stars followed the trend and it became the signature look of the early ’40s.
The Coronet braid became trendy in the mid 1930s. Along braided rope was placed like a crown or heaband across the top of the hair.
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Other Eras of Black Hair Styles
Afro-Centric Styles of the 1970s
The 1970s celebrated the afro, a bold and empowering symbol of black pride and identity. This decade marked a departure from Eurocentric beauty standards, as black individuals embraced their natural texture with pride.
Braids and Beads: 1990s Cultural Resurgence
In the 1990s, braids adorned with beads became a cultural phenomenon, popularized by icons like Janet Jackson and Brandy. This era witnessed a resurgence of interest in traditional African hairstyles, highlighting the beauty and diversity of black hair.
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Modern Revival: Embracing Diversity in the 21st Century
Today, black hair continues to break barriers and redefine beauty standards. From natural curls to intricate braids, there's a celebration of diversity in black hairstyles.
The CROWN Act
Despite the pride that many Black people take in their hair, Black hair is still often discriminated against, especially in corporate America. Thankfully, recent progress made in the fight to end hair discrimination.
In July 2019, California became the first state to pass a bill banning natural hair discrimination with the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open Workplace for Natural Hair Act). This act protects hair texture and protective hairstyles including cornrows, afros, braids, twists, and dreadlocks against discrimination in the workplace and educational institutions.
Historical black hairstyles have transcended mere trends; they are powerful expressions of culture, identity, and resilience. As we celebrate the evolution of black hair over the decades, let's continue to embrace and appreciate the beauty and significance of these iconic styles. Black hair is beautiful.