Watamu, a delightful coastal town located about 105 km north of Mombasa and 15 km south of Malindi, is known for its pristine white sandy beaches and tropical relaxed vibe, making it an ideal destination for family holidays, romantic getaways, and wild solo or group coastal adventures.
Watamu means ‘The Sweet Things’ or ‘The Sweet Ones’. Kenyans like to say ‘Watamu ni Tamu!’ - which means Watamu is Sweet!
It’s the stuff of Indiana Jones, Romancing the Stone, and H Rider Haggard. And for a 34-year-old Ernest Miller Hemingway, it turned out to be the ultimate Boy’s Own adventure. In December 1933, driven by a passion for adventuring and deep-sea fishing, the renowned American writer, accompanied by his second wife Pauline Marie Pfeiffer, embarked on an expedition to Africa.
But it was the coastal paradise of Watamu and its untouched splendor that truly stole the celebrated globetrotter’s heart, and where nearly 100 years later, many succumb to its magic.
Watamu Kenya Travel Guide: 18 BEST Things To Do In Watamu
Getting There
From Nairobi, options include travelling by bus which is a journey that usually takes about 10 hours and sets you back about 1,500/- for a one way trip on a regular seat. The Standard Gauge railway train to Mombasa which usually costs about 1,000 for economy class and 3,000 for business class on a one way trip is the second option. In terms of time this does not confer any advantage to the bus option since Watamu is still about 2hours away from Mombasa.
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The third option is a flight from Nairobi to Malindi and prices for the flights usually start at 5,300 for a one way trip and the cost is variable depending on the day of the week and the season. Transfers from Malindi to Watamu usually cost about 2,000 for a solo traveler but if in a larger group this usually comes to around 4500 per vehicle.
Accommodation
There are multiple hotels and resorts to choose from and even more villas on Airbnb for all budgets. Many hotels offer stays on a bed and breakfast or half-board basis, providing the perfect opportunity to explore other hotels and restaurants in the town.
Here are some highly-rated accommodation options:
- Hemingways Watamu: A five-star boutique hotel, the brainchild of a Brit, Richard “Dicky” Evans. Like Hemingway, Dicky was a big fan of deep-sea fishing: the hotel bar is decorated with huge mounted blue marlins, trophies of fishing trips past.
- Turtle Bay Resort: An all-inclusive, beachfront eco-friendly resort that is located on Watamu beach road.
- Eco Villas Watamu: Conveniently located on the main street, featuring cozy rooms and bungalows set in beautifully landscaped plantation-style surroundings.
- Watamu Treehouse: Offers a unique experience with seven bedrooms spread between two towers, set up as a home for wellness.
The rates are variable with the season and time of the year.
Food and Dining
The Italian influence is everywhere - from the pasta restaurants to the gelateria, the signs in Italian and the names of the boats. It’s even been said that you can find some of the best Italian food in Africa in this little beachy town in Kenya.
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Here's a brief overview of dining options:
- Explore other hotels and restaurants in the town such Visiwa beach resort and the restaurant at Ocean Sports resort.
- Papa Remo: A narrow track takes you to a gateway manned by towering locals in tribal dress, but step through iron gates to enter an Ibiza-style beach club, with a huge sand dance floor. Here, tables and chairs are set out on the sand under straw parasols, facing the sea, where waiters bring pizza and pasta.
- The Crab Shack: A local community project with wooden structures on the edge of the Mangrove forest, offering fresh local seafood.
- Lichthaus: A popular spot attracting a diverse crowd of locals and visitors.
Things to Do in Watamu
Beaches
One of the biggest draws of Watamu is its beaches, with Garoda Beach standing out for its year-round freedom from seaweed. You’ll find sunbeds available for a small fee (often negotiable), and unlike some tourist hotspots, there’s minimal hassling from local vendors.
Watamu Marine National Park
Protecting the ocean is fundamental to Watamu, and understanding a community’s values and commitment to the world around them is becoming increasingly important to any trip. The innovative recycling center, EcoWorld, does so much to keep the impact of tourism to an absolute minimum, focusing on details such as the removal of plastic bags, which local turtles can mistake for jellyfish in the water, a key part of their diet.
The Watamu Marine National Park is a snorkeler’s heaven and a diver’s playground. Remember that before you snorkel or dive in this protected area, it’s essential to get a permit from the Kenya Wildlife Service.
The park has an entry fee, often included in tour packages. The Sea Safari to Watamu Marine Park includes a glass-bottom boat ride, snorkeling, and a seafood BBQ feast at Jacaranda Bay, nicknamed “Sardegna 2” for its resemblance to Sardinia’s azure waters.
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Reputable PADI-certified dive schools in Watamu include Aqua Ventures, Scuba Diving in Kenya, Bluefin Diving, Ocean Sports Diving, Peponi Divers and Tribe Watersports.
Mida Creek
Mida Creek, a stunning reserve of mangroves and palms, is a tidal ecosystem teeming with birds and marine life. A typical Mida Creek tour includes a walk along the suspended boardwalk, offering breathtaking views of the creek. The Mida Creek Conservation Community manages a crab farm and the beloved Crab Shack Restaurant, where you’ll be warmly welcomed.
Sunset Kayaking in Mida Creek is an unforgettable experience. You can also cruise along Mida Creek in a Dhow boat or a fancier modern boat as well.
Gede Ruins
Designated as a Unesco World Heritage Site, this was once a bustling cosmopolitan trade center, connecting East Africa to India, Persia and China. Our final day, before we reluctantly moved on, introduced us to the ruins of Gede - built by the Swahili people in the 12th century, and now mysteriously abandoned 600 years ago and left to rewild.
Today, venturing into the nearby Gede ruins, surrounded by ancient carved stones and the foundations of long-crumbled ancient buildings, it feels akin to being dropped into an Indiana Jones movie. Spread across 45 acres, the ruins boast a diverse array of structures from mosques to palaces, crafted from coral stone and mangrove timber.
Other attractions
- Bio-Ken Snake Farm: The largest in East Africa, serving as both a snake zoo and a research center.
- Arabuko Sokoke Forest: A protected coastal forest with endemic mammals, birds, and plants.
Weather and Best Time to Visit
Watamu is warm year-round, but rainy seasons (March-May and October-November) can affect visibility for snorkeling and diving. If you’re all about underwater adventures, consider visiting in drier months for better clarity.
Watamu compared to Lamu and Diani
Which part of the Kenya Coast you choose to travel to will depend on what kind of experience you are interested in. From my experience, Watamu, Diani and Lamu each have their own charm and beauty, and are right for different experiences.
- For some of the most beautiful coast and bucket-list beautiful architecture, Lamu is a must.
- For interesting culture, beautiful accommodation options and really nice restaurants, Watamu is perfect.
- My favourite destination for the beaches alone, Diani offers a near-endless stretch of white sand and bluer-than-blue water, sprinkled with just enough restaurants and beach bars to keep boredom at bay.
A place that stays with you
As the dhow’s long wooden hull caressed the waters, we drifted along the creek before diving from the boat’s pinnacle into the warm depths below. In these fleeting moments of utter serenity, time itself seemed to come to a standstill.
The night before we left this enchanted place, Hemingway’s words from his 1935 non-fiction account of his expedition, Green Hills of Africa, echoed in my head: ‘All I wanted to do now was get back to Africa.
Watamu truly embodies the spirit of a serene seaside retreat.
| Destination | Highlights | Activities |
|---|---|---|
| Lamu | Beautiful coast, Swahili architecture | Strolling the beach, exploring Shela village |
| Watamu | Culture, diverse food scene | Snorkeling, scuba diving, Mida Creek exploration |
| Diani | Wide white sand beaches | Relaxing on the beach, water sports |
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