Northern Ethiopia’s Tigray region is home to some of the most dramatic and awe-inspiring churches in the world. Carved into cliffs and mountaintops, the Tigray rock-hewn churches date back as early as the 4th century. These churches are famous for their picturesque location, beautiful history, and the challenges one might face in reaching them.
Historical and Cultural Significance
Ethiopia’s ancient civilizations are believed to date back more than 3,000 years, and many of the country’s most famous ancient artifacts are found in Tigray. The rock-hewn and built churches of the Sacred Landscapes of Tigray, the wall-paintings inside them, and the treasures they have accumulated over the centuries illustrate the development of the original Axumite civilization of northern Ethiopia and the ways in which it was able to receive and assimilate cultural influences from outside.
The monuments of the Sacred Landscapes of Tigray provide an exceptional testimony to the civilization of medieval Ethiopia, from its inception with the conversion of the empire of Axum to Christianity in the 4th century AD, until its destruction as a result of the invasions of the 16th century. The sole responsibility for the content of each Tentative List lies with the State Party concerned. Tigray is home to 121 rock-hewn churches, believed to represent the single largest group of rock-hewn architecture in the world.
Ger‘alta is a principally mountainous zone located in a sandstone escarpment in south-central Tigray. Pottery, inscriptions, and hagiographic traditions dating back to the Aksumite period depict Ger‘alta as one of the most important regions of ancient civilization in the Horn of Africa. Cartographically, it appears in the 15th century as a component of the Ǝndärta province that occupied eastern and south eastern Tigray. Ger'alta’s mountains give it one of the most captivating terrains in the northern Ethiopian highlands. Many of these mountains host ancient rock-hewn churches and monasteries, making the area a spiritual haven for pilgrims. These structures are recognized as world heritage sites.
Reasons for Mountain Locations
Religion was once Ethiopia's savior. Most Ethiopian churches and monasteries were built on top of mountains for three reasons:
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- The Ethiopian Orthodox Church believes the biblical Zion symbolizes a heavenly mountain shelter.
- Spiritual dwellings in mountains were believed to be nearer to the heavens.
- Mountains have been used as safe havens during wars and related disasters.
Aksum Zion - found in central Tigray and assumed to be the dwelling of the Old Testament Ark of the Covenant - is not only the head of churches and monasteries in Ethiopia, but is also believed to be the ultimate sanctuary. Ethiopia has seen its fair share of both throughout its history.
Sacred Landscapes of Tigray
The proposed serial nomination consists of three separate zones containing groups of rock-hewn churches in spectacular natural landscapes located in Mehakelegnaw and Misraqawi Zones in the eastern half of Tigray Regional State, in the north of the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.
- The Sacred Landscape of Gheralta lies to the north west, consisting of a mountain massif to the west of Wukro, north of the regional capital of Mekele.
- The Sacred Landscape of Tembien is a mountain range lying to the south east of Gheralta and to the east of Mekele.
- The Atsbi Sacred Landscape lies at the eastern edge of the highland plateau, at the top of the escarpment which falls away into the Danakil Depression, parts of which lie below sea level.
The rock-hewn churches in these three areas are almost entirely sculpted into Ambaradam Formation, Adigrat Sandstone, and Enticho Sandstone. The spectacular landscape of Geralta, Tembien, and Atsbi is an expression of the geological and geomorphological processes at regional and local scales.
Gheralta Sacred Landscape
The Gheralta Sacred Landscape, which consists of the Gheralta ridge and the twenty-eight rock-hewn monuments carved into the sandstone, represents the first phase of the serial nomination. The geology of the Gheralta area is characterized by Precambrian rocks, Permo-Carboniferous sedimentary rocks, Middle Jurassic-Triassic to Early Cretaceous sedimentary rocks. The churches in this locality area are all carved into Enticho Sandstone or into Adigrat Sandstone.
The rock-hewn monuments of Gheralta, which are located at altitudes varying from approx. 2100 - 2500 meters above sea level, have been carved into various levels of the sandstone, from the bottom to the top of the outcrop. The monuments were excavated at different dates over a period of 1,500 years, from the 5th - 14th centuries AD. Located in a spectacular landscape of great scenic beauty, access to many of them is extremely challenging and in some cases involves climbing vertical surfaces utilizing handholds and footholds cut into the rock, or by walking along a narrow ledge with a vertical drop below.
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Tembien Sacred Landscape
The Tembien Sacred Landscape incorporates twenty-eight rock-hewn churches. The geology of the Tembien area is characterized by Precambrian basement rocks, Permo-Carboniferous sedimentary rocks, Middle Jurassic-Triassic to Early Cretaceous sedimentary rocks, and Cenozoic basalts. The rock-hewn churches in these localities are sculpted into Enticho sandstone, Adigrat sandstone, and Amba Aradam sandstone.
The rock-hewn churches date principally to the second half of the Middle Ages and are a product of the monastic renaissance which characterized the period. They are located at altitudes of approx. 1200 - 2800 meters above sea level, at a lower altitude than the Gheralta and Atsbi landscapes.
Atsbi Sacred Landscape
The Atsbi Sacred Landscape lies at the eastern edge of the highland plateau, at the top of the escarpment which falls away into the Danakil Depression. The area includes twenty-four rock-hewn churches, as well as three very early timber-and-masonry built churches.
Rock-hewn churches include the large, five-bay, basilica of Mikael Amba, of 8th - 10th centuries AD, which incorporates important early woodwork dating to the original excavation of the church. These three churches are amongst the oldest in Ethiopia and are amongst the oldest timber structures in the world, dating between the 6th and 10th centuries AD.
Abuna Yemata Guh: A Testament to Faith and Art
Abuna Yemata Guh is a monolithic church located in the Hawzen woreda of the Tigray Region, Ethiopia. It is situated at an altitude above sea level of 2,580 meters (8,460 ft), or about 200 meters above the surrounding terrain, and it has to be climbed on foot to reach. The church is one of the "35-odd rock-hewn churches [comprising] the largest concentration anywhere in Ethiopia." It is situated in the erstwhile Gar'alta district (woreda).
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According to a local legend, the church was hewn during the sixth century, and dedicated to Abuna Yemata (also referred to as Abba Yem'ata), one of the Nine Saints. Owing to the dry climate of the church, the paintings on the walls and domes of the church are well-preserved. The design of the traceries in the church replicates those found in nearby churches of Gher'alta, such as Debre Tsion church (which houses more paintings depicting figures from the Old Testament than from the New Testament).
Some Tigray churches are notoriously difficult to reach. Abuna Yemata Guh, for example, requires barefoot climbing up vertical rock walls and narrow ledges.
Visiting Abuna Yemata Guh:
- A semi-monolithic church partly carved into a rock outcrop.
- Local guides are essential.
- Modest clothing is required. Men and women should cover shoulders and legs.
- Shoes are removed before entering.
Whilst some of them are an off-road drive and a 5 minute walk up the stone stairs, others require walking for hours, climbing vertical rock shelves, and an ability to let go of your fear of heights!Although we’re not very religious, we find historical places very moving, and if you can add an adventurous side to it, which would be climbing, we’re definitely up for it. Surrounded by beautiful landscapes and the grounds of the place we stayed in, Gheralta Lodge, we were in an eerie mood, in awe of everything around us - including the wonderful stone huts designed to blend in with nature.
The car left us near a huge tree giving us a nice break from the 9am sun - there were no traces of the mountain breeze that woke us up earlier this morning. Our guide set off first, we followed, and behind us the priest who would open the door and a couple of scouts who knew the area very well.
The scenery was incredible though - we were slowly entering the area that was shaded by the cliff-like rocks pointing over 300 metres up in the sky. When we turned around, we had the panoramic view of the villages down below, Gheralta Lodge and the town of Hawzen. They would now be a vital part of the whole climbing experience. Our guide told us that this part wasn't yet too difficult so we don't need the harnesses or ropes... Eventually we got to the western side and we were able to see the big rock that Abuna Yemata was carved into.
Once we walked on yet another rock shelf, we made it into a cave where the Church was located. We were the first ones at the top so the priest had to unlock the gate for us. We followed his white robes and the darkness slowly lightened up with the only light coming from the open wooden door behind us. We saw a couple of rock columns and all the walls and ceiling covered in the paintings. They might have been painted yesterday - their colours were so vivid and everything was clearly visible.
The church itself is said to have been rock hewn about the 4th BC, but the paintings are estimated for 12th century BC (our guide) or 14th century BC (information in the guidebooks). Nonetheless, the paintings have never been re-painted or re-stored - the colours haven’t been touched, they’re completely original as the painter left them in 12th or 14th century. We were also told that Abuna Yemata is still active - people from the nearby village belong to this church so during Sunday masses or holidays of Saints, the church receives many local visitors.
Dangerous climb to the "Church in the Sky": Abune Yemata Guh. | Ethiopia vlog
Threats to Tigray's Heritage
The Tigray region has been embroiled in war since November 2020. Fighting between forces allied to Ethiopian Prime Minister Abiy Ahmed and Tigrayan troops has led to the deaths of thousands of people and displaced millions. It has also caused the destruction of numerous historical monuments. With the region under a blockade, it has been difficult to track the scale of the damage done.
I have received local reports and footage of the destruction of some of these sites. The district of Hawzen, especially the Ger'alta area, has seen several attacks from Ethiopian military, Eritrean and Amhara special forces, and militia groups. Civilian massacres have been committed in the ancient monasteries of Maryam Dängälät and Abba Yǝm‘atta (Guḥ).
Membere Gebremedhin, a coordinator for the culture and tourism sector of the district of Hawzen in eastern Tigray, has reported that 31 monasteries and churches in the area have been heavily damaged. He added that church property and ecclesiastical materials have been looted. Footage of this destruction was shared by Dimtsi Weyane Television, a Tigrayan station.
This damage to churches and monasteries has destroyed Tigray’s vital heritage. It has also destroyed the potential of its tourism industry. The Ger‘alta heritage monuments carry emotional and spiritual links for the people of Tigray. These sacred heritage objects are believed to connect people to God. They are believed to offer intercession and spiritual healing power.
Heritage sites are sources of historical pride, indigenous knowledge, and cultural and religious identity. They are also a source of income through tourism. Losing this heritage may lead to identity and psychological crises. It could lead to rage and trauma, cultural shocks and social collapse. Finally, some heritage objects like manuscripts are epistemological tablets. They carry evidence of world history.
Comparison with Other Rock-Hewn Sites
The Sacred Landscapes of Tigray are unique as large and complex sacred landscapes containing numerous rock-hewn monuments with a cultural continuity of more than 1,600 years, with a high degree of authenticity and integrity. The Rock-Hewn Churches, Lalibela (Ethiopia), were inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1978.
Göreme National Park and the Rock Sites of Cappadocia (Turkey) were inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1985. This is in contrast to the Sacred Landscapes of Tigray, where the culture responsible for the monuments is still alive today and where the monuments remain in active use, in contrast to Cappadocia, where the churches are “dead” monuments.
The Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo (Bulgaria) were inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1979. The site consists of five principal (but small) rock-hewn churches, noted for their 14th-century wall-paintings, with other chapels and cells of the monks.
The Monastery of Geghard and the Upper Azat Valley (Armenia) was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2000. The monastery has remained in use up to the present, even through the Soviet period.
Below is a table comparing the key features of the Tigray churches with other similar sites:
| Site | Location | Key Features | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sacred Landscapes of Tigray | Ethiopia | Numerous rock-hewn monuments, cultural continuity of over 1,600 years | Active use |
| Rock-Hewn Churches, Lalibela | Ethiopia | Eleven churches in three groups | World Heritage Site |
| Göreme National Park | Turkey | Secular cave dwellings and churches | "Dead" monuments |
| Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo | Bulgaria | Five small rock-hewn churches, 14th-century wall-paintings | World Heritage Site |
| Monastery of Geghard | Armenia | Rock-hewn churches and princely grave | Active use |
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