The Wonders of Shea Moisture African Black Soap: Ingredients and Benefits

Jun 15, 2025 0

African black soap (also called African soap or black soap) is the latest skin care product to reach “holy grail” status, and for good reason. It is touted for its many potential healing properties, and it may help with breakouts, hyperpigmentation, stretch marks, and more.

Have you heard about the skin care benefits of African black soap? This recently trending ‘must-have’ for your skin care routine has a history of use that goes back quite some time. African black soap is a traditional, plant-based soap from West Africa. So while some may swear by its ability to cleanse and nourish many different skin types, you may be wondering - is it worth the hype?

Dermatologist Alok Vij, MD, breaks down the benefits of African black soap and the right way to use it. “African black soap has been around for ages, but we’re learning more and more how powerful and effective this cleanser can be,” says Dr. Vij. “Used properly, it can help protect your skin and may treat a variety of common skin conditions, from dandruff to acne.”

Let's delve into the ingredients and benefits of this skincare favorite and how you can add it to your routine.

What is African Black Soap?

African black soap was first produced in West Africa centuries ago. Today, its exact ingredients depend on where it is made. Generally, African black soap doesn’t contain lye (a common soap component). It’s usually unscented without dyes or other additives. Most African black soaps contain one or more of these ingredients:

Read also: Shea Butter for Skin and Hair

Cocoa pod ash, cocoa powder or cocoa butter.
Coconut oil.
Palm kernel oil and palm oil.
Plantain skin ash, leaves or bark.
Shea butter.

Some African black soaps include honey, aloe vera, lime or camwood (a central West African tree) to enhance their ability to heal, protect and moisturize your skin. Others contain essential oils or oatmeal. Check labels for specific information, especially if you have allergies to skin care products.

Unlike the synthetic soaps you find at the drugstore, authentic black soap is handmade from plant-based ingredients in Africa. If possible, buy fair-trade black soap. Each fair-trade purchase supports sustainable production, and, in some cases, it directly benefits communities in need.

Types of African Black Soap

As the demand for African black soap has boomed, so has the variety of soaps available. Some are traditional, others more processed. And you have a wide selection of natural ingredients to choose from.

The real thing - authentic African black soap - is handmade with a dark gray or brown color and an uneven surface. It’s softer than commercial (machine-made) soaps, so its edges may slightly crumble. When it comes to this unique soap, imperfection is a good sign.

Benefits of African Black Soap

“African black soap has multiple uses for every skin type, with benefits beyond providing a deep clean,” says Dr. Vij. “We need more research to confirm whether it does even more than clean, but the results so far are promising.”

Dr. Vij cites 12 potential benefits of African black soap for your skin:

Removes bacteria: Studies show that African black soap’s natural antibacterial ingredients work better than medicated cleansers to remove certain harmful bacteria, dirt and other impurities.
Deep cleans your skin: African black soap’s natural ingredients make it a thorough facial cleanser and makeup remover. Its oils and butters help dissolve makeup, while it effectively removes dirt from your face or body.
Exfoliates to help improve skin texture and tone: African black soap is much less smooth than other soaps, due to the ashes used to produce the soap, so it works as a natural exfoliant, removing dead skin cells before they clog pores and hair follicles. The plantain skins and leaves found in African black soap are naturally high in vitamin A, which can brighten your complexion, too. “It’s a good alternative to chemical products if you’re looking for a product with natural ingredients,” says Dr. Vij.
Reduces or prevents razor burn: If you’re used to having irritated skin or razor bumps after you shave, you may want to give African black soap a try. The oil and butter in African black soap may help soothe skin to prevent the aftereffects of razor burn. In the survey of 100 users of African black soap, 92% said they were either “very satisfied” or “somewhat satisfied” with African black soap for razor bumps. Use it before shaving to soften your hair and make shaving easier. “For some patients with acne or razor burn, mechanical exfoliation can make the condition flare up instead of get better,” says Dr. Vij. “As always, beware when using a new product to see which way your skin goes.”
Helps with mild skin rashes: Some people use African black soap to improve rashes caused by eczema and other types of dermatitis, psoriasis and skin allergies. More research is needed to confirm these benefits of African black soap, says Dr. Vij. If your rash symptoms persist or worsen, even while using the soap, talk to your healthcare provider about treatment options.
Treats fungus: Some research suggests African black soap may help control skin fungus, including a yeast called Candida albicans. That means you may be able to use it to treat conditions like athlete’s foot and toenail fungus. The soap also may help control dandruff caused by fungus.
Moisturizes without stripping essential oils: African black soap’s multiple ingredients help strike a balance - shea butter adds moisture to your skin while coconut oil prevents excess oiliness. These oils and fats lock in moisture but wash off well with water, so you’re not left with a buildup that can clog pores. Use African black soap to relieve dry skin or itchiness, especially if you have combination skin. “Some people do find that African black soap can dry their skin,” says Dr. Vij. “If that’s the case, you can use less or try another brand with more moisturizing ingredients.”
May reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines: Research is needed to know whether African black soap can reduce the visible effects of aging. Shea butter and coconut oil may help plump up wrinkles and fine lines by slowing the loss of collagen, a fiber-like protein that helps make our tissues strong. Exfoliation can also make fine lines less visible.
Protects against oxidative stress: Exposure to air pollution, UV radiation from the sun, skin care products and cosmetics affect your skin every day. You can see some of these changes with the naked eye - like dark spots or wrinkles. Others, such as free radical damage to skin cells, are invisible. Antioxidants in African black soap may help protect your skin from these effects and help discoloration fade.
Reduces inflammation: Rich in vitamins A and E, African black soap’s antioxidants help shield your skin against inflammation and free radicals that damage skin cells. You may find this helpful for inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea.
Treats acne: African black soap may improve acne and balance the natural oils in your skin. “African black soap may work for some people who have breakouts,” Dr. Vij says. “The soap helps exfoliate your skin and open pores, while the sulfur and honey reduce inflammation.” Its antimicrobial properties may even clear severe acne.
Treats dandruff: Yes! You can shampoo with African black soap, too. It may even help treat dandruff, thanks to its moisturizing ingredients. Use it like any other shampoo, lathering it into your hair and then rinsing it out. “There is some evidence that the yeast which drives dandruff, or seborrheic dermatitis, can actually grow in cocoa butter or shea butter, so patients with dandruff may see their skin condition get worse instead of better,” says Dr. Vij.

How to Use African Black Soap

It may take some getting used to, but soon, African black soap could become a favorite part of your self-care regimen. First, try a little bit on a small area of your body (patch test), especially if you have dry or sensitive skin.

For extra moisturizing, if your skin feels tight after cleansing, choose a black soap that contains shea butter. You can also try adding honey to your soap. Remember, a little goes a long way. Using too much African black soap can dry out or irritate your skin.

You may find it best to use this soap only two to three times a week, switching it up with a gentler cleanser on the other days. Dr. Vij offers these extra tips:

Cut or pull a small portion of soap off the bar or dissolve it in water, so it’s smoother and gentler to use.
Lather the soap into your hands before applying to your face, body or hair.
Massage it into your skin with your hands or a washcloth for about 90 seconds in circular motions.
Rinse off completely.
Apply moisturizer and hair conditioner.

Real, unprocessed African black soap has a rough texture. Although the natural texture is ideal for removing dead skin during exfoliation, you’ll want to smooth it out before using it as a regular cleanser.

Read also: Shea Butter for Hair Health

To do this, simply pull a small chunk of soap off of the bar and rub in between your hands. If you prefer a liquid cleanser, you can dissolve your piece of soap in water before use.

You can apply the bar directly to your skin if you’re looking for exfoliation, but be gentle! The rough texture is already an exfoliant in itself, so you don’t have to scrub. You may also consider rubbing the bar on a soft washcloth first for gentle cleansing or use on rashes.

With whatever method you choose, make sure that you thoroughly rinse the soap off with lukewarm water after use. Afterward, apply your favorite moisturizer to your damp skin. This will help lock in the soap’s natural hydrating effects.

Although African black soap can work well for all skin types, using it correctly is key to preventing unnecessary side effects.

Some people find black soap to be drying. You may be able to reduce your risk for this by adding a teaspoon of raw honey to your soap mixture.

If you’re new to raw black soap, consider using it once every couple of days to start. You can gradually increase your use as your skin gets used to the soap. It’s possible to be allergic to any soap. If your skin becomes irritated or you develop a rash, discontinue use.

Natural black soap is also rough, so it can irritate or even break your skin if you’re not careful. Stinging and burning are also possible. If you’re using a raw block of soap, use gentle, circular motions as you glide it along your skin.

The best way to prevent skin breakage is to smooth out the soap and combine it with water, or use it with a washcloth.

Is it Safe to Use African Black Soap Every Day?

Yes, it’s safe to add African black soap to your daily skin care routine. Clean and refresh your skin once or twice a day (morning and at bedtime) with the soap, followed by a skin toner and moisturizer. And don’t forget sunscreen!

Side effects depend on your skin type and any allergies or intolerances you may have. Some soaps irritate those who have eczema or are sensitive to dyes, fragrances or other ingredients, like sulfur or cocoa. If your skin becomes red or irritated, try switching brands or discontinue use.

Also be careful not to use this soap with chemical exfoliants. The combination may be too strong for your skin. If you have symptoms that persist or worsen, consult your dermatologist.

The PROPER way to use RAW African Black Soap for Sensitive Skin

Key Ingredients in Shea Moisture African Black Soap

African black soap is packed with essential nutrients designed to enhance your skin’s natural complexion and help you glow from the inside out. Here's a closer look at some of the key ingredients often found in Shea Moisture African Black Soap:

Ingredient	Description
Sodium Palm Kernelate	A vegetable origin (coconut or palm kernel oil and glucose) cleansing agent with great foaming abilities.
Sodium Cocoate	A vegetable origin (coconut or palm kernel oil and glucose) cleansing agent with great foaming abilities.
Glycerin	A helper ingredient that's used as a co-emulsifier (meaning next to other emulsifiers in the formula it helps water and oil to mix) and as a stabilization agent for foams.
Water	Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. The water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed).
Shea Butter	It's not only a simple emollient, but it regenerates and soothes the skin, protects it from external factors (such as UV rays or wind) and is also rich in antioxidants (among others vitamin A, E, F, quercetin and epigallocatechin gallate).
Jojoba Esters	Jojoba-derived emollient wax esters (fatty acid + fatty alcohol) that make your skin feel nice and smooth. They have multiple versions with variable fatty acid chain length and the ingredient can have a liquid, a creamy, a soft or firm paste, or even a hard wax consistency.
Aloe Vera	It’s a great moisturizer and has several anti-inflammatory as well as some antibacterial components. It also helps wound healing and skin regeneration in general.
Tocopherol	Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. Works in synergy with Vitamin C.

If you’re in the market for a multi-tasking cleanser, African black soap may be what you’re looking for. “Start slowly and cleanse gently, and you’re likely to discover why African black soap has been used for centuries,” says Dr. Vij.