Sarah Burton describes the clothing she designs at Alexander McQueen as "soft armor for women". Since taking over as creative director in 2010, following the death of Lee Alexander McQueen, Burton has crafted each piece as a balance of opposing elements. These include fragile and functional, historically rich yet forward-looking, and both posh and punk.
Her shows are known for their diversity, featuring women of various ages, shapes, and sizes from around the world. These women walk as both warriors and princesses. The immersive experience, complete with custom sets and music, is rich with meaning and beauty. Burton's work is undeniably beautiful, and her vision of beauty is inclusive and empowering. Her designs are not just about fantasy but also about the real world, real women, and practical elements like lace-up black leather boots suitable for everyday wear.
A master tailor, Burton can create anything from gowns with magical ruffles to tailored suits that are both savvy and comfortable. Her creations serve as essential wardrobe pieces for the modern, strong woman. Standing in solidarity with women, Burton uses her historical and romantic sensibilities, along with a deep appreciation for craft and English heritage, to create empowering beauty.
The Influence of Lee Alexander McQueen
Burton acknowledges that she learned the importance of these values from Lee Alexander McQueen, the founder of the house. She joined McQueen's atelier as a 21-year-old intern from Central Saint Martins in 1996. Over two decades later, she remains at the helm, leading a dedicated team of artisans, many of whom have been with the company for nearly as long as she has. She carries Lee’s work and passions deep within her, and, in a way, in every collection she creates.
"He will always be such a huge part of who I am and such a huge part of me creatively, because I grew up with all of his beliefs and creativity," she says. Since becoming creative director, she has focused on incorporating aspects of herself into her work.
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Alexander McQueen Design Process
Fall 2019 Collection: A Personal Journey
Her Fall 2019 collection, presented in Paris, was her most personal yet. She took her team to the North of England, her childhood home in Yorkshire, to explore the region's mills, looms, and landscapes. The collection is full of narrative.
One dress features traditional looming heddles transformed into shimmering sequins, evoking the sounds of a bustling factory. Other elements include studio scraps used as embroideries, snap closures as embellishments on a knit dress, and Northern symbols like the owl of Leeds and the seagull of Blackpool adorning a cascading skirt in lace. Tailored jackets proudly display a "Made in England" label.
The Rose Dresses: A Symbol of Femininity
The most striking pieces are the three rose dresses in black, fuchsia, and red, each cut and draped from a single piece of fabric. These dresses draw inspiration from the White Rose of York and the Red Rose of Lancaster, symbols of England’s warring houses, and from the Northern tradition of crowning a local girl the rose queen during springtime festivals. These regal dresses also pay homage to the unsung rose queens throughout history.
The Rose Dress is molded to a corset bodice onto which Burton and her team built out the dress’ many ruffles and folds.
Burton’s collections serve as a support system, inspiring and empowering women. This has made her the go-to designer for Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, whose wedding dress she designed in 2010, and for other powerful women worldwide. With Burton, you can embrace both your strength and your femininity, embodying the "flower of your life."
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In an interview with Vogue, Burton discussed her fashion journey and the creation of her rose dresses.
Burton's Design Approach
Burton began her tenure as the brand's creative director in 2010, a role she approached with a deep understanding of Lee McQueen's legacy. Having worked alongside him since 1996, she felt well-versed in his storytelling and creative vision. However, she recognized the need to develop her own narrative. McQueen had always emphasized the importance of personal belief and emotional connection in design. Burton embraced this, ensuring that her collections remained strong regarding creativity, women's empowerment, craft, technology, and the interplay between man and machine.
The challenge lay in staying true to the essence of McQueen while infusing her own perspective. Burton found that McQueen's clear definition of the brand-its tailoring, couture dresses, denim, punk elements, and rich history-provided a solid foundation. Each season became an opportunity to explore a different facet of the McQueen woman's story.
Over the past decade, Burton's design approach has evolved, particularly with the introduction of research trips about three years ago. She emphasizes the importance of experiencing things firsthand, believing that true creativity stems from emotion and personal connection. By visiting places like Yorkshire mills, she and her team gain unique insights that cannot be found in books or online.
The dress’ high, ruffled neckline evokes the ruffs of Queen Elizabeth I
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The Research Trips
These research trips serve multiple purposes. They not only provide inspiration but also foster a sense of community within her diverse team. Burton learns from her team members' unique perspectives and backgrounds. The trips also offer a glimpse into social history, revealing details that might otherwise go unnoticed. For instance, during the Yorkshire mills trip, a coffee pot filled with loom heddles sparked the idea for a sequin dress.
Burton filters her experiences from these trips organically into her collections. Ideas often come to her immediately, such as recognizing the potential of fabric coming off the loom for a jacket drape. Scraps on the floor can become embroideries on a coat. The process is constantly evolving, and the team is always striving to improve and push boundaries.
The Rose Dress takes shape on a dress form in the McQueen atelier
Burton emphasizes that her work is about allowing each garment to have its own narrative. The creative process is as important as the clothing itself. The McQueen atelier fosters a collaborative environment where experimentation and innovation are encouraged.
The McQueen atelier makes final touches on the Rose Dress during a fitting with model Anok Yai
Regarding the rose dresses from the Fall 2019 show, Burton explains that they were inspired by childhood memories of rose queens, combined with historical references to the War of the Roses and the English Church. The dresses symbolize femininity, with fabric volume molded onto a corset and exploding outwards. The fabric itself dictates the form of the dress, creating a unique and powerful statement.
