Fat-tail geckos are another popular type of gecko for beginner reptile enthusiasts. They are named for their tails and the region they are from, hence African Fat-Tail. African Fat-Tailed Geckos are medium-sized lizards that come in a variety of colors and patterns from tan coloration to bright orange, with dark bands or patterns, and some having no pattern at all. Also less popular than the better-known leopard gecko, African fat-tailed geckos are similar in both hardiness and temperament, making them well-suited for new and experienced reptile enthusiasts alike. They are generally docile and can be very easy to handle with frequent interaction. African-fat tailed geckos generally have very docile, tolerant dispositions and can make very handleable pet lizards.
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Enclosure
Your new pet should be housed in nothing smaller than a 36”L x 18”W x 16”H enclosure, with an at least 4” substrate dam for substrate. If you can afford larger, then it’s strongly advised to do so. Bigger is always better! A 20-gallon tank is the recommended enclosure size for a fat-tail gecko. While a 10-gallon tank is acceptable for juveniles, they will be better off with a 20-gallon tank when they reach adulthood. Prioritize floor space over height. A 20-gallon tank also offers space for more than one gecko. A fat-tailed gecko enclosure should be large enough to allow for a proper thermoregulatory gradient and have opaque or covered sides to reduce stress. To build an extra enriching, 3-dimensional landscape that allows your gecko to climb, burrow, and explore to their heart's content, we recommend a 4’x2’x2’ PVC enclosure.
We recommend putting various caves and humidity hides in the enclosure to provide a safe space for the geckos to feel secure in their environment and a comfortable humid spot to rest and/or shed. Low branches and other platforms can offer enrichment and provide activity, as geckos like to climb.
Cohabitation
If you plan to have more than one gecko in the same enclosure, ensuring they are used to each other and will not pose a threat is important. Males in particular are known to fight. Never put two males together. Male geckos are at risk of fighting each other, and female geckos may fight if one is bigger than the other. A male and female gecko risk breeding. Siblings generally will not have an issue but will still need to be monitored.
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Substrate
Various options for lining the bottom of the enclosure include soil, desert stone, sand, newspapers, and paper towels. For African fat-tailed geckos, it’s best to use a well-drained, naturalistic substrate that is similar to what is found in their native habitat. This substrate should be layered at least 4″ deep to allow for burrowing behavior. Since fat-tail geckos are burrowers, it is recommended that after quarantine, the new gecko go straight to sand or dirt. It’s recommended that the substrate be around 3-4 inches deep to promote burrowing. Soil can be used for a more natural look and provide exercise and better humidity retention. A food dish is required for loose substrate. Some brands of soil and sand are safe for reptile consumption, so research when choosing these for substrate.
African fat-tailed gecko substrate should replicate the soil found in their native regions, usually a combination of soil, clay, crushed rock, and sand, and should be 3-6” deep to facilitate digging and burrowing. Josh's Frogs BioBedding Desert is specially formulated to recreate the natural textures, density, heat conduction, and moisture retention of arid and semi-arid soils in the wild. You'll need about 60 quarts / 6 bags to fill your enclosure. Using BioBedding Desert alone does NOT automatically create a bioactive habitat - more specific steps must be taken to achieve bioactivity. This substrate is great for geckos in its inactive state, but you will still need to spot-clean regularly and replace it as needed.
Here are a few options:
- DIY semi-arid mix: 40% organic topsoil, 40% play sand, 20% Zoo Med Excavator Clay
- Lugarti Natural Reptile Bedding
- Zoo Med ReptiSand
- Exo Terra Desert/Riverbed Sand
- Exo Terra Stone Desert
New African fat-tailed geckos should be >6 months old and must pass quarantine before naturalistic substrate is added to their enclosure. Before then, use paper towels or blue shop towels.
Heating and Lighting
Heating is essential no matter what gecko you have. African Fat-Tailed Geckos like their “basking areas” to be at 85-95 degrees Fahrenheit. Their cool sides should be somewhere between 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit. The enclosure should have a basking zone at one end that reaches around 90 degrees Fahrenheit and a cooler zone at the other, which reaches around 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a basking bulb for the warm end of the enclosure, but be sure to monitor how much heat it gives off and change to a lower watt if necessary. A heat mat can help keep the enclosure at optimal temperature if the room gets colder at night. However, the temperature must be monitored closely if using a heat mat or ceramic bulb, as too much heat can burn or cause damage to the gecko. Use a thermometer with probes on both ends of the enclosure to monitor the hot and cool ends.
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African fat-tailed geckos are nocturnal, which means that they are primarily active at night. All lights should be turned off at night. You can use a 12/12 day/night cycle, or you can vary day length seasonally to encourage more natural hormonal rhythms. If you choose to do the latter, lights should be on for up to 13 hours/day during summer, and down to 11 hours/day during winter, with gradual increments in-between.
A linear T5 HO forest UVB lamp is perfect for crepuscular species like fat-tailed geckos. For a 2-foot tall enclosure, we recommend using a 22” bulb in a reflective fixture. The lamp can be placed directly on top of the screen or installed inside the enclosure. Be sure to check our basking distance chart to determine how high to build your primary basking area, where the UVI should be at its strongest.
Here are some enclosures that are appropriate for housing African fat-tailed geckos:
- Kages 36″x24″x18″ PVC Reptile Enclosure
- Toad Ranch SF36 3’x2’x19 Luxury Reptile Enclosure
- Repti Zoo 36″ x 18″ x 18″ Reptile Terrarium
Heating Sources:
- Under-tank heaters: These are loved by most geckos, because it helps digest their food faster.
- Basking lights: These are loved by most hobbyists, because it heats the air (unlike an under-tank heater) and the temperature can be measured easier.
There are other heater sources, but please don’t use them unless they are intended for reptiles.
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UVB Lighting
African fat-tailed geckos are capable of surviving without UVB lighting as long as they receive a high-D3 calcium supplement, but they are most likely to thrive when UVB is provided. In order to get the right strength of UVB (measured by UV Index, or UVI), distance, obstructions, and fixture type must be considered. The distances listed below should be measured from the gecko’s back on the basking platform to the UVB lamp.
Lamp placed over mesh:
- Arcadia ShadeDweller 7% - 8-12″ / 20-30cm
- Zoo Med T5 HO ReptiSun 5.0 - 14-20″ / 35-50cm
Lamp installed under mesh:
- Arcadia ShadeDweller 7% - 10-16″ / 25-40cm
For best results, use an Arcadia or Vivarium Electronics brand T5 HO fixture. The UVB lamp should be installed on the warm side of the enclosure, overlapping with the heat lamp, because heat and UVB work together. The UVB lamp itself should span no more than half the enclosure’s length.
Temperature Guidelines:
Humans are warm-blooded, which means that our body temperature is automatically regulated. African fat-tailed geckos, however, are cold-blooded, which means that they have to move between areas of different temperatures to regulate their body temperature. In the wild, African fat-tailed geckos warm up during the day by sleeping in a warm burrow or patch of sunlight. In captivity, the best way to replicate the warming effects of sunlight is with a heat lamp, possibly supplemented (but not replaced) by a heat mat.
RAINY/WARM SEASON (April-October)
- Warm hide: 90-94°F (32-34°C)
- Cool side: 72-77°F (22-25°C)
- Nighttime: 72-77°F (22-25°C)
DRY/COOL SEASON (November-March)
- Warm hide: 79°F (26°C)
- Cool side: 68-74°F (20-23°C)
- Nighttime: 63-64°F (17-18°C)
Generally speaking, a ~50w PAR30 halogen heat bulb or two should be plenty for achieving the desired temperatures in your African fat-tailed gecko terrarium. However, if the bulb is mounted inside the enclosure, a halogen bulb is likely to be too intense and I recommend an incandescent spot bulb instead, such as the Exo Terra Intense Basking Spot or ReptiZoo Intense Basking Spot.
Humidity
Fat-tail geckos differ from other species of geckos in terms of humidity. They do well when they go through seasons of humidity. This means that during the more rainy months, their enclosure should mimic that with about 70-80% humidity. During the drier months, their humidity should be around 50-60%. Use various methods, including misting the enclosure and using substrate like spagnum moss to hold moisture. African fat-tailed geckos do best in an environment that cycles between wet and dry seasons:
- Rainy/warm season - 70-80% daytime, 100% nighttime
- Dry/cool season - 50% daytime, 70-75% nighttime
It is also important to your gecko’s health to provide them with consistent access to an area of higher humidity. This can be done with a “humid hide” - a cave or hide with moistened substrate (NOT sphagnum moss), placed on the cool end of the enclosure. This helps your gecko shed successfully and stay hydrated. Keep the humidity levels in this hide around the same as your current target nighttime humidity.
Fat-tail geckos need a constant water source, so provide a shallow dish of fresh water at all times.
Decor and Enrichment
Decorations play a vital role in your African fat-tailed gecko’s enclosure as environmental enrichment. Enrichment items encourage exercise, stimulate your pet’s natural instincts, and help promote overall wellbeing. And, of course, they make the enclosure look nicer! Without décor, your gecko’s terrarium is just an expensive box of dirt.
Hollow logs, thick branches, leaf litter, ledges, and artificial or drought-resistant live plants work well as décor in an African fat-tailed gecko terrarium. You can also provide additional hideouts. Get creative with your decor, you can never have too much coverage and climbing! Your gecko should have at least 3 distinct hiding places: a warm hide under the heat source, a cool hide furthest from the heat source, and a humid hide near the center. Choose any 2 of the following recommendations, 1 warm hide and 1 cool hide, but feel free to provide as many additional hiding spots as you like!
The humid hide should be lined with coconut fiber and misted regularly to provide a constant moist microclimate and aid in healthy shedding. A removable top is super convenient for misting! Choose 1 humid hide + 1 brick of coco fiber.
Branches, logs, and cork bark are excellent for varying the terrain and giving your gecko objects to climb on or burrow under. We recommend providing at least 2 cork flats and at least 3 branches or logs for an enriching enclosure.Artificial plants add more shade for UV and heat regulation, coverage for security, and they enhance the appearance of a naturalistic habitat.
Although your African fat-tailed gecko may not seem particularly active to your perception, they’re usually quite busy at night. Use things like low branches, cork flats/hollows, caves, ledges, and plants for your gecko to explore and hide in. Don’t be afraid to clutter it up! Live plants in particular are critical to helping your mini-ecosystem function properly. Make sure the plants that you choose are drought-tolerant and won’t be too bothered if their roots get disturbed. Good choices may include pothos, peperomia, sansevieria, calathea, and creeping fig. Note that particularly delicate plants may get trampled to death.
Diet
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African fat-tailed geckos are insectivores, which means that they eat insects. Live insects make up the majority of a fat-tail gecko's diet. A regular diet may consist of a few dubia roaches, mealworms, superworms, or crickets every few days for adult geckos and daily for juveniles. How often an African fat-tailed gecko needs to depends on age: The general rule is to offer 2 appropriately-sized bugs per 1 inch of your gecko’s length, or however much they can eat in 15 minutes. Juveniles should be fed daily, and young adults fed every other day/every 3 days. Adults whose tail is fatter than their neck can be fed every 5 days.
Feeder insects:
- Crickets
- Dubia roach nymphs
- Discoid roach nymphs
- Black soldier fly larvae
- Mealworms
- Darkling beetles
- Hornworms
- Silkworms
- Grasshoppers/locusts
The key to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your pet is VARIETY. Provide as varied of a diet as you possibly can, and you will be rewarded with a healthier pet that always looks forward to mealtime. Feeder insects should be no wider than your gecko’s head. ALL FEEDER INSECTS SHOULD BE LIGHTLY DUSTED WITH CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT BEFORE FEEDING.
If you feed the live insects into the tank/vivarium with no food dish, remove any uneaten bugs to prevent them from hurting the gecko. Never use wild caught insects as they could have diseases or toxins and may not be clean enough to eat.
Supplements
Geckos need a supplement of calcium and D3 in their diet every so often, which can be done by dusting their regularly consumed insects. Otherwise, they can develop metabolic bone disease or MBD. This can look like deformed or weakened limbs and a weaker jaw, which can prevent the gecko from being able to eat properly. Increase calcium and D3 intake as needed. Giving calcium or multivitamin supplements to your gecko once a week is recommended to ensure they get enough nutrients for their diet.
To ensure that your pet is getting all the vitamins and minerals they need, you need a calcium powder and a multivitamin powder. Take care not to use these too often; too much vitamins can be just as deadly as too little. There are many options in terms of supplements, but Repashy CalciumPlus LoD is a solid all-in-one supplement for African fat-tailed geckos that have appropriate UVB. For best results, use as directed by the manufacturer.
Handling
Once you’ve brought your gecko home, it’s tempting to start playing with them right away. But wait 2 weeks after buying before beginning handling - your gecko needs time to settle into their new home, and handling on top of that can cause additional stress. If your gecko hasn’t eaten by the time the 2 weeks are over, do not handle and make an appointment with an experienced reptile vet. When you first bring home your new pet gecko, resist the temptation to immediately start playing with it. You’re huge compared to an African fat-tailed gecko, and s/he needs time to figure out that you’re not going to eat them.
After the 2 week waiting period is over, introduce yourself to your gecko by putting your hand in its enclosure every night for a few minutes so it can get used to your scent and presence. They should already be relatively familiar with you, since you’ve been in their space replacing water, offering food, cleaning up, etc. Let it come to you! (Food bribes can be helpful here.) Once your gecko has established confidence in his/her new home and is eating regularly, you can introduce yourself. Let them watch you outside of the enclosure.
When you begin handling, start with 5 minute sessions every other day, gradually increasing the length of the sessions and escalating to daily. Support the feet, body, and tail. Never grab the tail, as it is detachable. Consistency is key to successful taming.
Young African-fat tailed geckos are usually more skittish as juveniles than adults. But eventually they’ll stop running away from your hand and get used to your presence. This is when you can start to handle them. But just because you have reached this step does not mean your pet trusts you.
Stay close to the ground or a soft surface (ex: bed, couch) in case the gecko jumps. You want handling to be a positive experience, and injury is not a positive experience.
Common Issues
Like many reptiles, fat-tail geckos experience brumation. Brumation is common in the colder months, and owners may notice their gecko not eating as often or refusing meals. This is normal and only a concern if it suddenly starts losing weight or if the tail seems to be getting thinner. The size of the tail is related to the gecko's health. If it is nice and thick, the gecko is getting enough in its diet to store energy for later properly and is healthy.
Another common issue that fat-tail gecko owners may face is a stuck shed. A stuck shed happens when the humidity levels get too low, and the gecko cannot naturally peel off its own shed. A simple remedy is to mist the enclosure to provide a more humid environment for the gecko to shed in. If the stuck shed persists, soaking it in a shallow bin of warm water for 15-30 minutes is recommended. Be very careful, as stuck shed and eye caps are a big possibility for geckos.
