The rich cultural diversity in Nigerian society has a huge influence on the Nigerian fashion world, with the various elements of the varying ethnic groups showcasing their unique designs and customs even in the modern-day. Although there have been a lot of changes in the Nigerian fashion world, there is still a retention of its unique beauty and originality. Nigerians, probably more than any other African people, get fond of wearing clothes in their traditional fashion and style.
When they are not wearing the complete traditional look, there will be at least one cultural element in their outfit. Fashion designers in Nigeria, as well as major manufacturers of fabrics and ready-made clothes, consistently draw inspiration from traditional styles of clothing, creating new collections of attires and fabrics.
Nigerians usually dress casually because of the hot climate. However, both formal and traditional clothing are also worn.
In Nigeria, it is believed that every Nigerian who wants to have a true cultural identity must have traditional clothes in his wardrobe. If the grand agbada is worn on especially festive occasions, the dashiki is perfect for an everyday wardrobe.
Let's delve into the specifics of traditional Nigerian clothing, exploring various styles and fabrics:
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Traditional Attire by Ethnic Group
Yoruba Traditional Attire
Traditional Yoruba dress uses textiles and fine beads (Iyun, Akun, Ikan, Segi, Opoto, Eri Eyin and others) to reflect social status and religious affiliation as well as personal identity and taste.
The Gele is a traditional Yoruba woman's head wrapping made of firm material. It may be worn as a fashionable accessory on formal occasions but can also be a daily wear. The gele is peered with Iro ati Buba, Komole dress or Asoebi dresses by Yoruba women.
Key elements of Yoruba traditional attire include:
- Agbada: Represents wealth, status, sophistication, and cultural pride. Historically gifted by Oyo Empire rulers to neighboring kingdoms including Dahomey, symbolizing diplomatic power.
- Iro and Buba: Represents Yoruba femininity, elegance, and cultural identity. The coordinated fabrics demonstrate attention to tradition and aesthetic sophistication.
- Gele: Represents regal status, femininity, cultural pride, and social sophistication. Considered incomplete without headwrap for formal occasions.
- Aso-Oke: (meaning “top cloth”) is the most prestigious traditional fabric in Nigeria. Represents cultural heritage, social status, and communal pride passed through generations.
- Fila: Represents dignity, respect, and completes traditional attire. Essential accessory for Yoruba men-outfit considered incomplete without it.
- Adire: Historically used for ritual and ceremonial purposes. Symbol of resistance and unity. Represents indigenous Yoruba dyeing artistry.
Yoruba Traditional Attire
Igbo Traditional Attire
The isiagu is a men's pullover shirt similar to a dashiki that is worn by many groups in Africa. Did you know that the Igbo traditional attire is called Isiagu? Isi-Agu, which literally means lion’s head in Igbo, is a pullover shirt made with fabric that has lion heads printed on it. Women wear form-fitting clothes in either isiagu or ankara that accentuate their figures through countless styles.
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Key elements of Igbo traditional attire include:
- Isiagu: Also called “Chieftaincy attire,” the Isiagu symbolizes royalty, power, authority, strength, bravery, courage, and cultural pride.
- George fabric: Symbolizes elegance, cultural pride, wealth, and sophistication.
- Akwete: Akwete represents indigenous Igbo weaving artistry and cultural heritage preservation. Each piece is testimony to skill and creativity of Igbo craftspeople passed through generations.
- Ichafu: Ichafu signifies beauty, respectability, and cultural pride.
- Coral beads: Coral beads represent wealth, prestige, royalty, beauty, spirituality, and ancestral blessings. Different from Edo coral in cultural meaning and styling.
- Red cap: Red cap signifies leadership, authority, respect, and title-holding status within community.
- White: Represents purity, peace, spirituality.
Igbo Traditional Attire
Hausa-Fulani Traditional Attire
Muslim women in northern Nigeria wear various types of veil, including the hijab, which reveal the face but cover the hair and may cover much of the body.
Key elements of Hausa-Fulani traditional attire include:
- Babban Riga: Represents dignity, spiritual devotion, social status, and cultural identity.
- Jalabiya: Jalabiya represents simplicity, comfort, and Islamic modesty.
- Kufi cap: Completes traditional attire. Represents Islamic identity and cultural heritage.
- Turban: Represents Fulani nomadic heritage, wisdom, and masculine identity.
- Zani: Represents modesty, elegance, and cultural identity.
- Mudukare: Represents Fulani pastoral heritage and femininity.
Hausa-Fulani Traditional Attire
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Edo Traditional Attire
The Edo also traditionally express their status and identity with beads, but also with raffia work, anklets, and bangles. Edo men traditionally wear coral beads of two kinds, ekan and ivie, with either suits or traditional robes.
Key elements of Edo traditional attire include:
- Oba Regalia: Represents divine kingship, spiritual authority, and connection between earthly and spiritual realms.
- Men's Traditional Attire: Represents status, cultural pride, and connection to Benin Kingdom heritage.
- Bridal Attire: Represents purity, beauty, family honor, and transition to married life.
Edo Traditional Attire
Other Ethnic Groups
Other significant ethnic groups in Nigeria also have unique traditional attire:
- Ijaw: Represents Ijaw identity, cultural pride, and connection to Niger Delta heritage.
- Ibibio: Represents leadership, cultural heritage, and community respect.
- Efik: Represents sophistication, cultural refinement, and historical trade connections.
- Tiv: The distinctive black and white stripes honor Tiv heritage.
- Kanuri: Reflects rich cultural heritage of one of Africa’s longest-lasting empires.
- Urhobo/Isoko: These closely related peoples share cultural similarities including clothing traditions.
- Itsekiri: Reflects mixed ethnic origins-language related to Yoruba and Igala, but also adopted from Edo (Benin).
- Nupe: Represents communal values, pastoral simplicity, and craftsmanship heritage.
Fabrics Used in Nigerian Native Attire
Traditional wear must be accompanied by the perfect cloth material. An occasion’s outfit styling begins with shopping for cloth material basing on how well it will suit you and the style you are opting for. Ankara, Guinea, Lace and Linen are the most commonly chosen material for structuring traditional wear. These days, even trouser material is being used very much.
Selecting the right material for your attire concerns what you love and enjoy wearing the most. What is comfortable enough and what looks the best on you.
Here are some of the key fabrics used:
- Ankara: The clothing fabric Ankara is a 100% cotton fabric with varied colorful prints on them. It is always bright and creative and has imprinted African Tribal prints.
- Aso Oke: This traditional local fabric is manufactured by the ethnic group - Yoruba. It is usually made with cotton but sometimes is also mixed with silk and metallic yarn.
- Atiku: This Fabric is also majorly made up of cotton. The designs range from being plain, striped and patterned and come in various color grades.
- Brocades: The Fabric is embroidered cotton. They have been wax stamped and beaten with clubs for the shiny look that it is known for.
- Batik: Manufactured as an adire in Nigeria, Batik comes with patterns and motifs created by dye mechanism.
- Chiffon: The degrees of transparency alter, the colors are varied, the lightness is praise worthy and its use narrows down to styles of gown and tops.
- Lace: The list of laces available in the market include tulle, cord, paper, guipure, sequenced, beaded, jute, and George and French laces.
Here is a table summarizing the fabrics and their uses:
| Fabric | Description | Common Uses |
|---|---|---|
| Ankara | 100% cotton with colorful African prints | Hats, earrings, blazers, skirts, gowns, dresses |
| Aso Oke | Traditional fabric made with cotton, silk, and metallic yarn | Agbadas, head ties, wrap-ups, Filas |
| Atiku | Cotton fabric with plain, striped, and patterned designs | Senator and agbadas styles |
| Brocades | Embroidered cotton with a shiny look | Free-style kaftans |
| Batik | Fabric with patterns and motifs created by dye mechanism | Buba gowns, dresses, contemporary fashion |
| Chiffon | Lightweight, transparent fabric with varied colors | Gowns and tops |
| Lace | Various types including tulle, cord, paper, and more | Various styles depending on the type of lace |
Evolution of Nigerian Fashion
Before independence, when Nigeria was still a colony of Britain, indigenous fashion traditions such as adire indigo dyeing came to be viewed negatively. In there place Western garments became signs of power and elitism. The Patterns of sewing were brought into Africa in the 15th century. African Native clothing even today is simply its traditional wear which has been a little more enhanced in their new and ever growing society.
Fashion in the 1960s was characterized by women dressing in both fitted and oversized attires as well as mini skirts and dresses with simple local hairstyles and Afros. While the men wore bright-coloured shirts in different patterns and marched with tight skinny pants. The 1980s had women wearing maxi skirts and men oversized suits with huge permed hair. The fashion trend started to experience a significant change in the 1990s with the influence of America with miniskirts, scousers and native boubous for women.
Modern Nigerian Fashion Designers
Shade Thomas (later Thomas-Fahm) became Nigeria's first widely recognized fashion designer. After studying fashion design in England in the 1950s, prior to Nigerian independence, she set up a shop at the Federal Palace Hotel in Lagos and a garment factory at the Yaba Industrial Estate. Lisa Folawiyo uses traditional West African fabrics to produce modern tailored designs. She launched her label, Jewel by Lisa, in 2005. She also produces custom luxury prints and accessories, such as jewelry and purses. Omotoso Oluwabukunmi runs TWIF Clothing; the name is an acronym of The Way It Fits.
