Getting Nigerian Dwarf Goats for the first time can seem overwhelming, but with the right information, you can confidently care for these charming animals. Whether you're new to homesteading or simply enchanted by these pint-sized dairy goats, this guide is designed to help you choose, care for, and enjoy Nigerian Dwarfs with confidence.
Understanding Nigerian Dwarf Goats
Nigerian Dwarf goats are a miniature breed, typically no more than two feet high at the withers. Their small size offers several advantages:
- Economical on feed
- Able to be kept in smaller spaces
- A great size for being around children
A small group of colorful Nigerian Dwarfs dotting the landscape is a pleasant sight. They tend to be rather unpredictable in their litter colors, and even a large litter of quadruplets or quintuplets can have goats of completely different colors and patterns. They are a Canadian Goat Society registered dairy breed (and the only miniature registered breed) so smallholders can also plan to have some home milk production.
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Not only can Nigerian Dwarf goats from good lines be excellent little milk producers, but their milk has higher butterfat than standard dairy goats. Once you’ve tasted that sweet creamy delicious milk, you’ll wonder where real goat’s milk has been your entire life!
Choosing the Right Goats: Wethers as Pets
Goats are Herd animals! You can NOT have just one! They’re social by nature and need companionship to stay healthy and emotionally balanced. For pet homes, it’s best to keep at least two goats of the same gender to avoid feeding complications and behavioral stress.
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If you aren’t looking for productive livestock; but would rather have two or three goats to nibble at the weeds and enrich your farm home, wether goats make wonderful pets. Wethers are neutered males who will not develop the randy smell, urine-drinking, and rutting behaviour of bucks. Wethers are castrated males and are considered ideal pets due to their friendly and docile nature. Unlike bucks, they do not possess a strong odor. That odor in bucks comes from scent glands and rut-season urine spraying - behaviors wethers don’t experience. Wethers are also much less likely to exhibit aggressive behavior, making them excellent companions for both humans and other goats.
Male vs. Does vs. Wethers
- Does (Females): Generally more docile and easier to manage. They do not emit the strong odor that bucks do. Females are preferred for milk production. It is important to note that does experience a heat cycle every 21 days, which can lead to increased vocalization and restlessness.
- Wethers (Castrated Males): Considered ideal pets due to their friendly and docile nature. Unlike bucks, they do not possess a strong odor. Wethers are also much less likely to exhibit aggressive behavior, making them excellent companions for both humans and other goats. It is important to monitor their dietary requirements and provide grains containing ammonium chloride to prevent urinary calculi. Although wethers are castrated, they may still show interest in does during breeding cycles.
- Bucks (Males): Used for breeding and are NOT ideal pets. They are usually larger, more aggressive during breeding season, and have a strong odor due to scent glands and rut seasons. Keep intact bucks separate to avoid unwanted breeding and aggression. Bucks can affect milk flavor from does should they be housed close or with does, making it taste unpleasant.
IMPORTANT TO NOTE that Bucklings should not be castrated before 8 weeks of age, with the optimal period being at 12-16 weeks to allow for maximum urethral growth, thus reducing the risk of urinary calculi. Castration can be performed using a simple and cost-effective banding tool, with various instructional videos available on YouTube.
Registered vs. Non-Registered
When considering Nigerian Dwarf goats, it's essential to understand the importance of registration. Registration papers are typically issued through ADGA or AGS, and they verify lineage, breed standards, and eligibility for shows or resale. Only kids from registered parents can be registered.
- Does (Females): It's a good idea to purchase registration papers for does. If you decide to sell or breed them in the future, having the papers will make the process much easier and ensure their value.
- Bucks (Males): Since bucks are primarily used for breeding, they should always have registration papers.
- Wethers: Wethers do not need registration papers because they are kept as pets.
Essential Care for Nigerian Dwarf Wethers
We have found Nigerian Dwarf goats in general to be clever, friendly, and curious; each with their own quirks and personalities. You’ll greatly enjoy watching their lively antics as they climb and jump around on rocks, playgrounds, or anything else you provide them with.
Housing and Shelter
Nigerian Dwarf goats need a well-ventilated shed or barn for cover, sleeping, and protection from predators, wind, sun, cold, and heat in summer, as well as winter conditions. A three-sided structure is not enough. Goats need to be locked in at night to prevent predator access. Make sure doors latch securely - goats are clever, and predators are persistent. You'll also need somewhere to safely store their grains to keep rodents at bay and goats from getting into it, and somewhere to dispose of their soiled bedding, such as a compost pile. Goats waste a lot of hay - and I mean a lot. (Research no-waste hay feeders.)” so proper disposal of soiled bedding is essential.
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Your structural needs will increase if you plan to breed and/or milk your goats, as you will also need kidding pens and a designated milking area. Adding a chicken pen-like small "pop door" for winter helps them keep even warmer compared to having the large door open, and a window in the pen is a plus for even more ventilation and light needed in winter months. An effective housing setup can involve a cheap used shed split in half, with one half for the goats and the other half for hay storage. Adding cheap linoleum to the floor on the goat side can make cleaning easier and help the floor last longer. The double doors let you access the hay area without opening the side where the goats are. Ventilation should be added to the two peaks of the shed for optimal airflow. Cover peak vents with hardware cloth to prevent birds or rodents from entering. This setup works well for any gender.
Goats hate mud and like to be dry when it rains. So keep that in mind when you do the shelter. You might want to have it up on a pallet or something. Because I am in a wet area, my goats needed quite a bit of bedding and indoor space to get out of the rain. One way to decrease the amount of bedding is to use raised slatted floors.
Fencing
Proper fencing for goats is essential. If there is ONE thing you must do before you buy goats, it is to construct a safe and secure fence. Goats like to rub on fences, which is the main issue with wire fencing - they push on it to scratch. Sturdy wire is needed; we recommend woven wire fencing with 2"x4" openings - it holds up to rubbing and prevents head entrapment. or hot wire strands to keep them away from the wire and perhaps scratching posts could help. They also try to stick their heads through openings and are very clever about getting out of their enclosures.
Sufficient goat fencing needs to be escape-proof: high and tight. Our does use 4' fencing towards our home and 5' in the back at the woods, I suggest 5 foot or more. We haven't had an issue, but I have seen some kids jump right over a 4' fence to get to their owners. So keep this in mind; I cannot guarantee 4' is sufficient. Neighborhood dogs are the primary predators of goats in this area, and we also have bears. Therefore, it is crucial to ensure a dog cannot jump over their fence, you may need hot wire if bears are common in your area.
The saying goes that if a cat can get through your fence, so can your goat. Goats are so curious they frequently get their heads caught. Another common fence problem is that goats LOVE to rub against them. Holistic Goat Care had a genius recommendation for large scale goat farms. Give your goats an old street sweeper brush!
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One thing, which I'm sure you've seen already in your research but I just want to emphasize, make sure you have goat friendly fence. They are little escape artists and incredibly persistent! For the first year I had goats I always assumed people were exaggerating until I tried to separate a visiting buck from my does. He was only around for maybe two weeks but those two weeks were ridiculous! He would find one weak spot in the fence and just push until he could get under. We would patch that spot and he would find another one within the hour. He was a NDG but he was soo strong! They are also really great climbers so it's important not to have any structures near the fence that they could use to jump over.
Nutrition and Feeding
A balanced diet is crucial for these goats. They need quality hay for fiber and grains for nutrition. Goats are ruminants, so aside from pasture or bush to browse, the major component of their diet should be hay. They require fresh clean water, a good quality hay, a 2:1 dairy mineral for goats or cows, and loose salt. We premix our salt and mineral to control the intake of the mineral; however many goat keepers swear by providing the mineral and salt separately. They always try to sell that stuff to people and it is usually designed for peope trying to get their goats ready for the show ring.
Fresh water should always be available. Goats love warm water, especially in colder months. Never use a sheep mix, as it does not have the needed copper for goat food. Minerals should be loose, not blocks. Goats don’t consume enough from licking blocks, and it can lead to deficiencies.
Free choice 2nd cutting orchard grass hay should be available at all times. Nigerian Dwarf goats need a covered hay feeder outside year-round, with an additional small hay feeding area inside for the winter months. Always keep the hay dry and accessible. Avoid open troughs or ground feeding - goats won’t eat hay that’s been stepped on or soiled. For the first 8 months, the kids should have hay 24/7, so you'll need to provide hay inside even in the summer. After 8 months old, they don't need hay inside during the summer as long as you let them out early and lock them in later at dark. Wasted hay will build up quickly and cause more work for you. We estimate a grown adult to eat about 1 "slice" of hay each day.
Using agriculture lime for livestock is a cost-effective way to keep smells at bay and control parasites. A layer of lime on the floor before adding bedding is recommended. Large pine shavings (never cedar) are ideal for summer bedding and can be cleaned as needed. During the winter, deep bedding helps keep goats warm.
Here's basically the situation most likely: there will be two young (under 6 months, probably around 2 or 3) NDG wethers living in a roughly 300 sq ft enclosure with mostly regular sod grass and a couple other random plants and low-ish hanging branches of trees (no poisonous plants, I checked) in southwestern Tennessee in a suburban area. Plain mixed grass hay would also be fine. You will need a good hay feeder. I often scoop up the hay that my goats drop and won't eat and feed it to my horses and steers. Or I will use that dropped hay in my chicken nests.
IF they are so hungry that they eat off the ground they will reinfest themselves with worms. Purchase small amounts of hay. unelss you have a good place to store larger amounts. Provide a good plain white salt block. My goats hit that salt block a couple times a day. You can get a big 50 lb one or you can get the smaller ones that go in horses stalls. You will need a salt block holder.
You can use a mineral supplement that is special for goats or you can use a a multi species one for cattle goats and horses. handle copper as well as goats and other animals so many of the sheep mineral supplements won't be high enough in copper for goats. and pigs so it is more cost effective that way. You can feed a goat feed or even a feed that is designed for multi species use. I use a cheap multi species feed for the goats. You won't need to feed the nigerians very much. for pets. Then she came to visit and watched me feed my goats. She said is that all you feed them? Sometimes goat wethers can have problems getting stones in their bladder if you feed them to much grain or feed with a lot of grain products in it. That is another reason to not feed them too much grain. soy hulls in it as it is a highly digestible fiber. Goats will eat plain soy hull pellets. I fed them to mine for years. What you need to keep in mind is that goats are rumminants and are designed to ferment fiber in the chambers of their stomach. Goats are not really meant to eat a lot of grain. So technically goats don't need grain. Goats usually prefer to browse on bushes and taller weeds. Let them have as many rose bush trimmings and blackberry vines as they want. They love them.
Table: Nutritional needs for Nigerian Dwarf Wethers
| Nutrient | Source | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Fiber | Quality hay (orchard grass) | Free choice, available at all times |
| Minerals | Goat-specific mineral supplement | Loose minerals, not blocks |
| Salt | Plain white salt block | Available at all times |
| Water | Fresh, clean water | Warm water preferred in colder months |
Health and Wellness
Do some research on worms in goats so you know what to look for. If goats are in a small area and are eating off the ground they have a very high likelyhood of getting a high worm load. I agree with everything Bonnie said. I just wanted to add, that, if you are keeping them in a small area, it's usually better for their health to dry-lot them. Which means removing grass and vegetation from their pen (the overhanging branches would be fine). The reason for this, is, living primarily on hay, they will be desperate for some greenery, and they will eat grass close to the ground, and this will give you major parasite trouble. With a small area, the grass will never grow tall enough to be safe or beneficial to eat. I have seen this happen with an acquaintance, who then wonders why she is constantly battling parasites.
Annual vaccination for Clostridium C & D and tetanus is a good idea. Our pregnant does receive a CDT injection 1 month prior to kidding so kids carry immunity until 4 to 6 weeks of age, it is then that a CDT vaccine is needed and a 3-week booster thereafter. Then goats need a CDT annual, please research pregnant doe needs in regard to vaccines if you plan to breed. Many goats will have a small lump or swelling at the injection site. This is normal and usually goes away on its own.
Kids will be dewormed before leaving, Please Learn FAMACHA, google it and see how its done with goats. You will need to follow up deworming in 10 days after your kid leaves and research on deworming goats and how to deal with worm loads etc, this is important. FAMACHA scoring uses the color of the lower eyelid to assess anemia caused by barber pole worms. Scores of 4 or 5 mean the goat needs treatment. The bane of all breeders-and you need to keep an eye out for it.
Coccidia is a serious concern for young kids. Please speak with your vet about prevention protocols before your goats arrive. Sulfa medications like Dimethox are commonly used for treatment and prevention. If a goat kid has diarrhea, it may have been overfed, gotten into bad feed, or developed coccidia. Important: Some medications, like Corid (amprolium), can interfere with thiamine absorption. We always follow a preventative protocol when keeping kids here. Coccidia thrives in damp, dirty pens.
We trim hooves as needed, but also follow a quarterly goat care protocol. Every three months, we check and trim hooves, assess parasite load, administer copper bolus if needed, and review overall health.
It took me a couple months of trial and error to find something that worked for me because I didn't know anyone that knew anything about goats. Oh and when it comes to goats, you could ask 10 different people the same question and get 10 different answers. And they might not all be wrong, although some of them might be terrible. I hired a farm hand recently who told me she tells her guests to just throw their cigarette butts on the ground because the goats will clean them up! I know tobacco has been used as a dewormer but those filters can't be good for them! Anyways, best thing is to just do your best to evaluate everyone's advice and see what works best for you.
Disbudding and Scurs
Disbudding is the process of removing the horn buds of young goats to prevent them from growing horns.
- Safety: Horns can injure both goats and handlers.
- Shows and Pets: Many goat shows require disbudded animals.
Some goats can be naturally polled, meaning they are born without horn buds. Polled goats carry a dominant gene, so at least one parent must be polled for kids to inherit it. However, if your goat is not naturally polled, disbudding is a necessary step to ensure their safety and well-being. ALL goats that leave Lil Swatara will either be polled or have been disbudded at 3 days to 2weeks old depending on gender and initial size.
A goat may scur (A scur is a partial horn that can regrow after disbudding. If caught before 6 to 8 weeks of age, it can be corrected). Boys tend to scur before females. Scurs can grow in odd shapes and may break or bleed.
Toxic Plants
It's important to be aware of plants that are toxic to goats, as they can pose serious health risks. Common culprits include cherry trees (especially wilted leaves), rhododendrons, azaleas, and wild hydrangeas. To keep your goats safe, research toxic plants specific to your region. Local extension offices or livestock vets can help identify risks in your area.
It is important to monitor their dietary requirements and provide grains containing ammonium chloride to prevent urinary calculi. Although wethers are castrated, they may still show interest in does during breeding cycles. It’s not a big deal - some even find their ‘blabber talk’ amusing.
Additional Tips
- Common advise to new goat owners is to get yourself a goat mentor. Ideally we’d all have one, but sometimes yours moves away when you are just getting started. And even better, it has referenced books on some topics. I’m such a sucker for good references. If you’re thinking about getting goats, read Holistic Goat Care. And if you’ve had goats for a while, you’ll probably still finding something useful. This 37 page digital resource will help you get started breeding and milking your goats, give basic feeding tips, and help you monitor for common health issues.
- Also, have someone experienced show you how to trim their hooves.
- We use Huber's Animal Health in Richland, PA, for all our animal needs, including feed, medicines, and vaccines, needles syringes, and more.
- It's essential to have a livestock vet lined up for any medical needs or emergencies. A vet experienced with goats will be invaluable in maintaining the health of your herd and helping you access medications when needed. While you can certainly handle your own vaccinations, deworming, and hoof trimming, having a vet available ensures you're covered when things get complicated.
Remember, this guide is based on real-world homestead experience and personal research. It is not intended to replace professional veterinary advice. Always consult a licensed veterinarian for diagnosis, treatment, or medical decisions regarding your goats.
