Miniature goats are increasingly popular as pets, which is no surprise given how adorable and friendly they are. Among the popular breeds, Nigerian Dwarf goats stand out as excellent choices for backyard companions, offering a delightful mix of charm, utility, and manageable size.
Why Choose Nigerian Dwarf Goats?
Nigerian Dwarf goats are miniature goats, usually no more than about two feet high at the withers, and their small size has its advantages! They are economical on feed, able to be kept in smaller spaces, and are a great size for around children. A small group of colorful Nigerian Dwarfs dotting the landscape is a pleasant sight.
In fact, one of the key reasons we chose to raise Nigerian Dwarfs on our homestead was because we had young children and extended family members. Add to that the fact that they are a Canadian Goat Society registered dairy breed (and the only miniature registered breed) so smallholders can also plan to have some home milk production.
Not only can Nigerian Dwarf goats from good lines be excellent little milk producers, but their milk has higher butterfat than standard dairy goats. Once you’ve tasted that sweet creamy delicious milk, you’ll wonder where real goat’s milk has been your entire life!
We have found Nigerian Dwarf goats in general to be clever, friendly, and curious; each with their own quirks and personalities. You’ll greatly enjoy watching their lively antics as they climb and jump around on rocks, playgrounds, or anything else you provide them with.
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For both small properties and large acreages, Nigerian Dwarf goats can be a weed-munching match made in heaven. Nigerian Dwarf goats can be a great way to clear and control invasive blackberries and nibble on weeds all while providing aesthetic, entertainment, companionship, and even milk to farm spaces.
However, goats are considered livestock, so you may need to check with your homeowner's association, local zoning laws, and any other applicable regulations before you decide to bring one home.
Housing Requirements
Goats are herd animals, so they're happier with other goats. They'll need a place to shelter from extreme weather and plenty of room to explore and play. Your accommodations don't have to be fancy, but your goats should be protected from the elements and drafts. Plan for at least 15 to 20 square feet of housing per goat.
They'll love niches where they can climb, sleep, and jump. There should be sturdy fencing around their housing and exercise area, so they can come and go as they please. The fencing will keep your goats safe from predators and protect them from toxic plants and other dangers.
Goats hate mud and like to be dry when it rains. So keep that in mind when you do the shelter. You might want to have it up on a pallet or something.
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Common advise to new goat owners is to get yourself a goat mentor. Ideally we’d all have one, but sometimes yours moves away when you are just getting started. And even better, it has referenced books on some topics. I’m such a sucker for good references. If you’re thinking about getting goats, read Holistic Goat Care.
Because I am in a wet area, my goats needed quite a bit of bedding and indoor space to get out of the rain. One way to decrease the amount of bedding is to use raised slatted floors.
One thing, which I'm sure you've seen already in your research but I just want to emphasize, make sure you have goat friendly fence. They are little escape artists and incredibly persistent! For the first year I had goats I always assumed people were exaggerating until I tried to separate a visiting buck from my does. He was only around for maybe two weeks but those two weeks were ridiculous! He would find one weak spot in the fence and just push until he could get under. We would patch that spot and he would find another one within the hour. He was a NDG but he was soo strong!
They are also really great climbers so it's important not to have any structures near the fence that they could use to jump over. Goats require solid fencing - they are masters at escaping so make sure you have left no weak areas in your fencing as your goats will find them!
Most new goat owners know that collars can be a problem for goats. If this has ever happened to you it’s totally scary! One minute you’re walking next to your goat, holding their collar. My goat Aurora did this several times and it always scared me.
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The saying goes that if a cat can get through your fence, so can your goat. Goats are so curious they frequently get their heads caught. Another common fence problem is that goats LOVE to rub against them.
Diet and Nutrition
Providing your pygmy goat with an appropriate diet is the most important thing you can do to keep them in good health. Most health issues in goats are caused by an inappropriate diet. Goats should not be fed human food.
Goats are ruminants, so aside from pasture or bush to browse, the major component of their diet should be hay. They require fresh clean water, a good quality hay, a 2:1 dairy mineral for goats or cows, and loose salt. We premix our salt and mineral to control the intake of the mineral; however many goat keepers swear by providing the mineral and salt separately.
Most of their diet should be composed of food they can forage, such as grass and hay. You should only give them minimal amounts of pellet feed or grain, since they can gain weight easily. Pellet feed and grain can also cause miniature goats to develop bladder stones, which can block their urethra and cause death if untreated. They also need access to a mineral block or loose mineral that's designed to complement their diet of grass and hay. Make sure they have plenty of fresh, clean water available at all times.
A mixed grass hay with clover or some alfalfa would be fine. Plain mixed grass hay would also be fine. You will need a good hay feeder.
What you need to keep in mind is that goats are rumminants and are designed to ferment fiber in the chambers of their stomach. Goats are not really meant to eat a lot of grain. So technically goats don't need grain.
Goats usually prefer to browse on bushes and taller weeds. Let them have as many rose bush trimmings and blackberry vines as they want. They love them.
Sometimes goat wethers can have problems getting stones in their bladder if you feed them to much grain or feed with a lot of grain products in it. That is another reason to not feed them too much grain.
Goats will eat plain soy hull pellets. I fed them to mine for years. soy hulls in it as it is a highly digestible fiber.
Provide a good plain white salt block. My goats hit that salt block a couple times a day. You can get a big 50 lb one or you can get the smaller ones that go in horses stalls. You will need a salt block holder.
Goats need mineral. Copper actually helps them be more resistant to worms. You can use a mineral supplement that is special for goats or you can use a a multi species one for cattle goats and horses. Copper actually helps them be more resistant to worms. You can use a mineral supplement that is special for goats or you can use a a multi species one for cattle goats and horses. and pigs so it is more cost effective that way. You can feed a goat feed or even a feed that is designed for multi species use. I use a cheap multi species feed for the goats.
You won't need to feed the nigerians very much. for pets.
Purchase small amounts of hay. unelss you have a good place to store larger amounts.
Toxic and Poisonous Plants
Despite widespread belief, goats can't eat just anything. Many plants are harmful to goats, so they shouldn't be unsupervised in areas where you can't control what plants they have access to. Well-fed goats are less likely to ingest poison since they aren't as hungry. A hungry goat will be less discriminating about what it eats, so ensuring your goat has plenty of healthy food is the first step in keeping it safe.
Some plants and substances are toxic in small amounts, while others are toxic over time, with the consumption of large amounts. Some possible toxins you should make sure your goat avoids include:
- All houseplants
- Flowering bulbs
- Landscaping plants
- Herbicides
- Fertilizers
- Pesticides
- Rodent poison
- Creosote-treated wood
- Lead paint
Health and Wellness
Annual vaccination for Clostridium C & D and tetanus is a good idea.
You can help your pygmy goat live a longer, healthier life by ensuring they have proper veterinary care. They should be vaccinated yearly with a CD&T vaccine that protects against overeating disease and tetanus. As part of their routine healthcare, you should also monitor them for evidence of gastrointestinal parasites that can cause diarrhea and anemia. Your veterinarian can put your goat on a preventative worm control regimen.
I often scoop up the hay that my goats drop and won't eat and feed it to my horses and steers. Or I will use that dropped hay in my chicken nests. that a goat will browse at. IF they are so hungry that they eat off the ground they will reinfest themselves with worms.
Do some research on worms in goats so you know what to look for. If goats are in a small area and are eating off the ground they have a very high likelyhood of getting a high worm load.
Also, have someone experienced show you how to trim their hooves. It took me a couple months of trial and error to find something that worked for me because I didn't know anyone that knew anything about goats.
Enrichment and Play
Pygmy goats love to play and exercise. Watching your goats have fun playing is very entertaining. You can encourage their play and provide healthy stimulation by giving them toys and equipment. Although you can design elaborate playgrounds, simple toys will do just as well.
Old tires situated about 18 to 24 inches apart will provide a jumping challenge for your goats. Another fun toy is a teeter-totter made from a log and a 2" x 6" board. Just avoid using a board that's too long so your goats won't get caught underneath. You can also adapt the idea by setting up a balance board with two posts and a cross board. Your goats will have a blast walking across it. Natural materials can also be used for playground equipment for your goats.
Building A Goat Playground for Under
Other Tips
Holistic Goat Care had a genius recommendation for large scale goat farms. Give your goats an old street sweeper brush!
This last tip is so simple, I can’t believe I didn’t think of it myself.
Getting Nigerian Dwarf Goats for the first time can seem overwhelming. If you are familiar with clicker training, it’s a similar idea. First you whistle, then you use a spray bottle of water or hose. You can also use a spray bottle to help you move a group of goats somewhere you want them to go.
Oh and when it comes to goats, you could ask 10 different people the same question and get 10 different answers. And they might not all be wrong, although some of them might be terrible. I hired a farm hand recently who told me she tells her guests to just throw their cigarette butts on the ground because the goats will clean them up! I know tobacco has been used as a dewormer but those filters can't be good for them! Anyways, best thing is to just do your best to evaluate everyone's advice and see what works best for you.
If you aren’t looking for productive livestock; but would rather have two or three goats to nibble at the weeds and enrich your farm home, wether goats make wonderful pets. Wethers are neutered males who will not develop the randy smell, urine-drinking, and rutting behaviour of bucks.
Here’s basically the situation most likely: there will be two young (under 6 months, probably around 2 or 3) NDG wethers living in a roughly 300 sq ft enclosure with mostly regular sod grass and a couple other random plants and low-ish hanging branches of trees (no poisonous plants, I checked) in southwestern Tennessee in a suburban area. Should I give them a grain/mineral/protein/whatever supplement? For how long? Do they need a salt or mineral block? Any other things to know?
