The Nigerian fashion scene has proven its resilience, constantly evolving with new prints, silhouettes, and ever-changing dynamics. Last year, we introduced you to 22 remarkable Nigerian fashion brands that caught our eye. As this year is rapidly coming to a close, we couldn’t resist doing it again. From hand-embroidered garments to innovative silhouettes and culturally inspired prints, the African fashion scene is truly diverse, with unique differences in design seen throughout every city in the continent.
Emerging Designers and Brands
In Lagos, Nigeria, a community of emerging designers have caught the eye of Amira Rasool, founder of The Folklore - a concept store in New York City that specializes in fashion from Africa and the diaspora. Based in New York City, The Folklore stocks the best of African men’s and women’s fashion, beauty and lifestyle brands.
‘I created The Folklore back in September 2018 to provide a space for designers to tell their own stories,’ says founder Amira Rasool. ‘We are intentional about bringing in a diversity of contemporary African design. We want people to disassociate from the idea that Africa in its design industry is monolithic - on the contrary, it’s extremely diverse. Not only does African fashion provide styles for every type of wardrobe, but there are also many designers creating one-of-a-kind and handcrafted pieces.
‘This isn't a mass market,’ stresses Rasool. ‘When you get a piece from these brands, you might be one of three people in the world to own that particular style. It’s a special item that’s going into your wardrobe; most of these products are handmade.’ This uniqueness is also evidenced in the fact that, globally, many people don’t even know of these brands yet.
‘For so long, cities like Cape Town and Lagos have been ignored by the fashion community,’ notes Rasool. ‘What people are seeing now is fresh in their eyes - even though that’s something they’ve been doing for over a decade - and that freshness gives the wearer an advantage.
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Key Designers and Their Unique Styles
- CLAN: Lagos-based sisters Teni, Aba, and Tiwa Sagoe created CLAN to empower women through a range of modern silhouettes and bold, unique patterns that celebrate individuality. The design trio does so by combining colorful long dresses, sheer panels and prints with boxy fits and broad shoulders.
- Andrea Iyamah: Since 2013, Nigerian fashion designer Dumebi Iyamah has used her African heritage to offer a new kind of resortwear, under the name Andrea Iyamah. Inspired by a bold palette and diverse cultures, the brand offers eccentric swimwear, ready-to-wear and custom-made bridal dresses.
- Fruché: Fruché is a brand that explores the rich, historical and modern stories behind Nigeran women and men, seeking to challenge the way they’re expected to look and dress. This is what makes his pieces reach everyone; not only fashion insiders, but also ‘women who may not be as daring’.
- Lisa Folawiyo: Launched in 2005 in Lagos, Lisa Folawiyo’s eponymous label blends traditional West African fabrics with modern tailoring and beaded embellishments. The designer pays homage to her love of Ankara textiles in her pieces, crafted by a team of expert local artisans who take on average up to 240 hours creating a single hand-embellished piece.
- Orange Culture: Orange Culture’s Adebayo Oke-Lawal described his label as ‘a movement’, offering a mix of Nigerian-inspired prints and colors with a contemporary streetwear feel. All pieces are manufactured in Lagos, from ethically sourced, local Nigerian fabrics.
- Tokyo James: After relocating from London to his home state in Lagos, Nigeria, in 2015, Tokyo James launched his namesake menswear label. He designs for modern men who appreciate simplicity with a contemporary edge.
Spotlight on Sustainable and Ethical Fashion
Several Nigerian designers are making significant strides in sustainable and ethical fashion. These designers are committed to preserving traditional crafts, reducing textile waste, and empowering local artisans.
- Nkwo Onwuka: Nkwo Onwuka, the founder, places a strong emphasis on environmental preservation. The fashion brand is on a mission to lead the way in sustainable fashion.
- Abasiekeme Eki Ukanireh: Abasiekeme Eki Ukanireh, in her journey through creative design, has been a proponent of ethical and sustainable fashion. Infusing elements like Rafia fringe, batik material, kaftans, and comfortable African textiles.
- By Wuzzy: This women’s fashion label seamlessly combines style and sustainability. By Wuzzy showcased reimagined and sustainable denim pieces.
- Eso by Liman: Eso by Liman is a distinctive men’s and women’s wear brand that skillfully blends contemporary styles with sustainable fabrics.
Nigerian Designers at the Africa Magic Viewers Choice Awards (AMVCA)
Apart from occasional themed movie premieres and certain fashion shows, only a few events in the Nigerian and African arts and entertainment scene give us memorable fashion moments. However, the Africa Magic Viewers Choice Awards (AMVCA) stands tall among them. Every year, this event awards outstanding performances, and remarkable people in the African film industry, leaving us with outfits and fashion choices that spark conversations.
However, behind these looks are unsung heroes who have invested their talent, hard work and passion for their clients. For them, the AMVCA is a special night to bring their vision to life through the fashion styles of celebrities. The awards ceremony for the 2024 AMVCAs at Eko Hotel and Suites, Lagos, celebrated its 10th edition this year. With that came remarkable fashion choices that left our mouths agape and our eyes fed.
In light of this, we spotlight five Nigerian fashion designers who crafted these iconic pieces for their clients for the 2024 AMVCAs and gave us moments to reference for years to come.
Top Designers at the 2024 AMVCA
- Veekee James: Looks from celebrities such as Toke Makinwa, Funke Akindele, and Uche Montana were the cynosure of many eyes at this year’s AMVCA. These outfits came to life through the magical hands of Veekee James, reminding us of the outstanding designer that she is. Veekee James’ creations are not hard to miss, as these memorable looks pay homage to the elegance of femininity through beautifully sculpted designs and graceful silhouettes.
- Swanky Jerry: Now, the 2024 edition of the AMVCA can say that Swanky Jerry blessed us with the magic in the designs and vibrancy. As a stylist and designer, Swanky’s works are synonymous with luxury and an outside-the-box approach to designing male outfits.
- Mai Atafo (ATAFO): Through ATAFO’s looks, we see great attention to little details and exciting choices that elevate traditional male outfits. This year’s edition was no different as ATAFO’s creations took over the red carpet with numerous celebrities such as IK Osakioduwa and Akin Faminu.
- Ann Cranberry: Led by creative director Anu Obasa, Ann Cranberry has continuously made a reputation as a brand with a bold and unconventional approach to fashion.
- Tiannah Styling: Tiannah Styling also takes it home with the fashion designer behind the label, Toyin Lawani, wearing an armless dress created from an imprinted coffee sack known by many as the fabric for local shopping bags.
Other Notable Nigerian Designers
Here are some other notable Nigerian designers who are making significant contributions to the fashion industry:
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- Peter Oshobor: Peter Oshobor, is lending his voice to redefine masculinity. Employing his contemporary designs that challenge the conventional male silhouette, while simultaneously intersecting traditional inspirations, personal experiences, and the beauty of the father-son dynamism and legacy.
- Wani Fuga: Toluwani Wabara, the founder and co-director of Wani Fuga, is renowned for the iconic Bubus and Rich Madam Luxury pieces that revolutionize traditional wear.
- VicNate: Established by Victor Anate. VicNate has your back for work dinners and awards shows with their extensive range of evening dresses.
- Elexiay: Elyone Adede’s creative vision fully came to life in 2018. Elexiay is a meticulous brand specializing in resort and loungewear, knitwear, and crochet.
- Orire: Established in 2021, Orire’s commendable dominance in a short span has made it a recognizable piece wherever it is worn.
- Desire Iyamah: This brand stands at the forefront of Nigerian fashion and women’s clothing, maintaining its position as a driving force in the African fashion ecosystem by seamlessly blending traditional roots with contemporary silhouettes.
African Designers Making a Global Impact
Africa's rich culture is not only reflected in its art, music, and traditions but also in its fashion scene. When it comes to fashion, Africa is a force to be reckoned with. The fashion pieces that emerge from this continent are nothing short of breathtaking. What's even more impressive is that African fashion designers have transcended the boundaries of their local markets and have gained global recognition.
Their creations can now be found in international stores, gracing runways, and adorning the streets of fashion capitals around the world. This level of success and recognition didn't come easily. African designers have worked tirelessly to perfect their craft and showcase the beauty of their culture through their designs. Their dedication and passion have paid off, and now the world can't get enough of African fashion.
Top African Fashion Designers
- Christie Brown (Aisha Obuobi Ayensu, Ghana): Back in 2008, the Ghanaian fashion scene witnessed a seismic shift with the dazzling debut of Christie Brown at its first-ever runway show in Accra. Christie Brown isn't just a label; it's a celebration of the modern West African woman-fierce, feminine, and unapologetically herself.
- Laduma Ngxokolo (South Africa): Laduma Ngxokolo's story is straight out of a modern-day fairytale. A young South African fashion designer, armed with nothing but creativity and a deep connection to his Xhosa heritage, decides to shake up the fashion world.
- Loza Maléombho (Côte d'Ivoire): Loza Maléombho's fashion journey reads like a tale of cultural fusion and creative passion. Loza's signature style is a mix of avant-garde aesthetics and cultural motifs, seamlessly blending traditional African elements with contemporary flair.
- Adebayo Oke-Lawal (Nigeria): Adebayo Oke-Lawal isn't your average African fashion designer. He is the brain behind Orange Culture, he's shaking up the fashion world with his boundary-pushing designs.
- Thabo Makhetha-Kwinana (South Africa): Thabo Makhetha-Kwinana, an acclaimed African fashion designer and the force behind her women's wear label, has been making waves since the establishment of her brand in South Africa in 2009.
- Yodit Eklund (Bantu, Africa): Yodit Eklund is the founder of Bantu, an African beach and surf lifestyle brand. Bantu was born from Eklund's deep connection to Africa's rich cultures and her passion for surfing.
From the streets of Lagos to Johannesburg, African fashion designers are making a profound impact on the global fashion landscape, drawing inspiration from their rich cultural heritage and pushing the boundaries of creativity. Through their innovative designs and unwavering passion, these designers are not only redefining African fashion but also shaping the future of the industry.
Table: Notable Nigerian Fashion Designers and Their Brands
| Designer | Brand | Style | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lisa Folawiyo | Lisa Folawiyo | West African fabrics with modern tailoring | Intricate embellishments, Ankara textiles |
| Dumebi Iyamah | Andrea Iyamah | Resort wear | Bold palettes, diverse cultures, swimwear |
| Adebayo Oke-Lawal | Orange Culture | Contemporary streetwear | Nigerian-inspired prints, unisex designs |
| Veekee James | Veekee James | Feminine Elegance | Sculpted designs, beadwork, luxury fabrics |
| Mai Atafo | ATAFO | Menswear | Clean cuts, exquisite tailoring, bold designs |
The Rise of Nigerian Fashion (10 Designers to Know)
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