Mary Todd Lincoln, wife of President Abraham Lincoln, was a complex and influential figure in American history. Her life, marked by both privilege and tragedy, offers a fascinating glimpse into the social and political landscape of the 19th century. This article delves into her life, exploring her fashion choices, her role during the Civil War, and her enduring legacy.
Early Life and Influences
Mary Todd Lincoln was born into a wealthy family in Kentucky, where she was brought up among overdressed ladies. This upbringing significantly influenced her later fashion choices and her perception of the importance of appearance.
Fashion Icon in the White House
When Mary and Abraham Lincoln moved into the White House in 1861, Mary was 42 years old. Contrary to the fashion norms of the time, when women her age dressed in somber colors, Mary chose to dress like a peacock, draping herself in bold blues, crimson, yellow, and royal purple.
For her, expensive clothes were a mark of importance, of breeding. Her gowns and bonnets were ornamented with flowers, lace, dots, and bows sewn on yards of velvet, taffeta, and silk at a time of war when soldiers were going without blankets. Her extravagant style attracted unwanted attention and sparked criticism from the Washington social elite.
Mary took her fashion cues from Eugenie, Empress of France, whose parties and clothes appeared in line drawings and detailed descriptions in one of Mary’s favorite magazines, Godey’s Lady’s Book. She was admonished for wearing low-necked dresses that revealed her “milking apparatus,” said one critic, and for the “flower beds which she carries on top of her head,” said another.
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Buoyed by a grandiose sense of self-importance coupled with her new position as the president’s wife, Mary demanded what she wanted. She expected everyone to do her bidding. The line between purchase and donation was fuzzy. Mary looked for donors to buy her gowns and hats, rewarding them with political favors.
An example of her demanding nature is illustrated by an incident involving a bonnet worn by Mary Taft. Mary Lincoln could not take her eyes off Mary Taft’s bonnet and asked for the purple strings off Mary Taft’s bonnet and asked for them.
The Washington milliner Willian sent for Mary Taft’s bonnet, removing the purple ribbons for Mary Lincoln, and sending back Mary Taft’s bonnet with new lavender ribbon.
Controversies and Scandals
Mary’s spending eventually came to light and became a national scandal. She was surprised when clothing merchants sent her bills.
When she blew her four-year budget for White House renovations in under a year, she contrived several plots to secretly defray her debt. In one instance, she persuaded the White House gardener to sell manure from the stables at ten cents a wagonload. It raised more stink than cash.
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Mary Lincoln and the Civil War
Mary Lincoln’s time as First Lady coincided with the tumultuous years of the American Civil War. Her position placed her at the center of political and social upheaval, and her actions were often scrutinized under the intense pressures of the time.
Family Life and Tragedy
Mary Lincoln is shown with two of her four sons. Willie is to our left and Tad is to our right. Tad’s name is Thomas. He was so wiggly that he was nicknamed Tadpole. One of the Lincoln’s sons, Eddie, died when they had lived in Springfield.
The Lincolns faced immense personal tragedy with the loss of their sons, which deeply affected Mary. Her emotional struggles were often amplified by the public's perception of her role and behavior.
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Legacy
Despite the controversies and tragedies that marked her life, Mary Lincoln remains a significant figure in American history. Her fashion choices challenged the norms of her time, and her story offers a complex portrait of a woman navigating the challenges of public life during a period of immense social and political change.
Her story continues to be told through documentaries and historical accounts, ensuring that her contributions and struggles are remembered.
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