At Mahi’s Ethiopian Kitchen, a pop-up in Columbia, the sense of togetherness is a guiding principle. Sharing a plate is encouraged among guests. The energy and values behind the food quenches the parched thirst for companionship even before tasting the first bite of beets and potatoes. Eating communally here is eating with compassion. Share the flavors and share about your day.
The idea of community never seemed so dear until isolation was at the front of our minds in the disconnected depths of the pandemic. Yearning for a seat at the table where food might fall accidentally from serving spoons, staining the tablecloths with random spots that, later, would refuse to come out in the wash, serving as reminders of lifelong memories. Feasts with debates, jokes, and, above all else, unity.
Meet Mahalet Tesfaye: The Heart Behind the Kitchen
Mahalet Tesfaye is the host and owner of Mahi’s Ethiopian Kitchen. She was born in Ethiopia. When she was young, her parents moved to Kenya as refugees and lived there for around twenty years. The family immigrated to San Jose, California by 2011. Columbia, Missouri became a peak interest after her mother attended a friend’s wedding in the area and decided to move to the Midwest town. And five years ago, Tesfaye followed suit, moving to Columbia to be close to family.
Tesfaye is no stranger to the kitchen. Her mother, Amelework Agide, ran an Ethiopian restaurant in Kenya; Tesfaye grew up with it. She was, as she puts it, “free labor, in a good way.” She occupied a variety of roles, from prep cook to dishwasher, or simply as a stand-in for those who couldn’t make it to work on a particular day. Around the clock, after school, or on break, she seemed to happily grow up in the restaurant.
“But I never thought I’d do it. I was like, ‘Nah, it’s not for me,’” Tesfaye explains. “I know how much work it is. But then, when I moved here, I would have Friendsgiving or throw a party and make food, and even my non-Ethiopian friends were like, ‘You should open up [a restaurant].’ Even as I moved here, I didn’t have any work history. So [working in a restaurant] was the best way to start. I started taking food orders, and then I became a cook. And I just went up. And then I realized I should do this for myself; like, I’m already doing it."
Read also: Ethiopian Cuisine: Philadelphia Guide
Noticing the feeling her food evoked among friends gave her a reason to set the table. The feeling of making others happy with her recipes, their faces smiling with glee and sautéed eggplant, warmed her, and she wanted to take it a step further. And since her first event in early Summer 2023, the pop-ups have attracted solely from word-of-mouth and social media - which has amassed more than 1,000 followers. Columbia seems to be indulging happily in this spread.
“It’s not just about the food. It’s about what our family is all about,” she explains. “Having a connection with the customers and getting to know them. “I was always around her and running her place,” Tesfaye says, adding that she will always admire and support her mother.
She was just five years old. Hearing her mother ask for plates, not looking up from her chef duties at hand at that moment, Tesfaye felt a sense of responsibility and went to wash the dishes outside. The air was cold, as was the tap gushing out while it cleaned the plates and drenched her dress. The process continued from noon until around four. The young worker washed the plates, brought them inside, and handed them to her mother, who still didn’t notice who was handing her the clean dishes. The restaurant was crowded and busy, and her mother didn’t look up until the hustle of the lunch-rush calmed. “By the time we were done, she looks at me, and she goes, ‘What happened to you?’’ Tesfaye remembers. She explained to her mom how the dishwasher never came in, and how she took over the position for the shift. “And she just quit and suddenly just sat down and started crying. She said, ‘You could get pneumonia. You could get sick.
Menu Highlights and Vegan Options
Most of the menu, pardon one meat option, is even vegan, a surprising theme that could never be guessed from the intense flavors. These healthier options are also the most enjoyed and requested, the vegetables take on a whole new identity, becoming so much more than the acquaintance you thought you knew.
How to Make Ethiopian Injera- Ferment Teff Flour
Future Plans
Mahi’s Ethiopian Kitchen may expand soon already. The next step is to prepare financially in hopes of starting up a food truck by summer 2024. There may even be a DoorDash option offered in the meantime.
Read also: Authentic Ethiopian Cuisine
The Communal Experience
“I think it is a very different perspective for people to share. “That always kind of rubs me the wrong way. When you visit Mahi’s Ethiopian Kitchen, take the opportunity to meet those around you. The food is built on communal eating, and it tastes much more decadent in the presence of colleagues. The true experience of Mahalet Tesfaye’s cuisine is in sitting with loved ones or soon-to-be-friends, savoring every moment of conversations as you scoop up every last bit of lentils and red pepper sauce.
What People Are Saying: Reviews
Mahi's Ethiopian Kitchen has garnered rave reviews for its authentic flavors, cozy atmosphere, and exceptional service. Here's a glimpse of what customers are saying:
- "Wonderful hidden gem tucked away in Alley A! Having lived in DC -- the nation's capitol for not just the government but also Ethiopian expats -- for nearly 7 years, I've fallen in love with the..."
- "We have tried this restaurant a couple times now, and it has been consistently amazing. The service has been great as well."
- "Ethiopian sample platter (5/5): We were able to try several..."
- "Quick service and amazing combo options available. Everyone is so kind and the place is cute. Definitely going back!"
- "Delicious food in a quaint and cozy space! This was my second time visiting and I'm trying to track more items so I can try them all."
- "As apart of Charlie and I's food tour across Columbia, today we stumbled into Mahi's Ethiopian Kitchen."
Location
Photos905 Alley A Apt 101Columbia, MO 65201Also at this address
Read also: A Taste of Ethiopia in South Carolina
