Located 300 miles south of Cairo on the Nile River, Luxor is vibrant and oozing with history. The ancient city of Thebes, Luxor is the most important and spectacular site in all of Egypt.
Here's your ultimate guide to the best of Luxor, from iconic sites like Karnak and the Valley of the Kings to gems off the beaten path.
Why Visit Luxor?
When you think of Luxor, you probably envision the city's multitude of temples and tombs. Though this UNESCO World Heritage-listed city is divided by the Nile River into two areas (the East Bank and the West Bank), there are remnants of the ancient Egyptian city of Thebes everywhere.
Luxor's oldest ruins date back to the late 14th century B.C., and tombs belonging to famous pharaohs like Tutankhamun and Hatshepsut can be found at the base of the West Bank's Theban Mountains. But Luxor offers more than just historic sights. Luxor's downtown area is filled with contemporary buildings and amenities. As you move out of the city center, you'll quickly notice Luxor's ancient ruins.
East Bank vs. West Bank
Looking at the map, you will see the Nile splits Luxor into the East Bank and West Bank, both home to incredible historic sites. To the ancient Egyptian, the world was a lush green ribbon cutting north and south through the desert. It was only logical to live on the East Bank, where the sun rises, and bury your dead on the West Bank, where the sun is buried each evening.
Read also: Monthly Temperatures: Luxor, Egypt
While most of Luxor's tombs reside on the West Bank side of the city, some of the most popular temples and museums can be found alongside the Nile's East Bank. For most travelers (myself included), the East Bank wins. It offers a wider range of amenities, more comfortable accommodations, and a selection of international luxury hotels. Plus, it's close to Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple, which makes it super convenient for attending the night sound-and-light shows.
That said, if you are after a quieter stay, the West Bank is also considerable. It is closer to major sites like the Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut Temple.
Getting to Luxor
Most tourists visit Luxor after they’ve wandered around the Great Pyramids of Giza or had enough of the bustling capital of Cairo. Or, some visiting from the neighbouring cities of Aswan and Hurghada. Either way, Egypt has a variety of affordable public transport options for you to travel around the country.
By Air
Flying from Cairo to Luxor takes just 1 to 2 hours, making it the fastest and most convenient option. Egyptair is by far the biggest airline and provides reasonably priced internal flights.
By Train
Most tourists opt for the overnight ‘luxury’ tourist train. It’s definitely far from luxurious but it does save money and time on travel as you move while you sleep! Express trains from Cairo to Luxor typically take 10 hours. The best way to do this is to take an overnight, sleeper train between Cairo and Luxor. Sleeper cabins range from $80 to $110 USD for a one-way fare.
Read also: Your Guide to Luxor International Airport
By Road
The distance from Cairo to Luxor is about 660 kilometers. A private car ride takes around 8 hours, while buses typically take about 10 hours. Bus travel is a safe way to get around Egypt and there are overnight services from Cairo and Luxor.
Aswan to Luxor
You can also drive from Luxor to Aswan (or vice versa). A taxi costs approximately 1400 EGP (based on the information provided by our hotel in Luxor). Trains run frequently from Aswan to Luxor, usually taking 3 to 4 hours. Using a private car offers the most flexibility. You can stop at attractions like Kom Ombo and Edfu or skip them entirely, it's your call.
It's the most popular and scenic way to travel from Aswan to Luxor. Taking 4 days, you can explore the attractions along the river bank relaxing.
I personally don't recommend this option.
Getting Around Luxor
Transportation in and around Luxor is a treat. The most convenient ways to get around Luxor are by tour bus and bike. Driving can be a bit chaotic in the city, and taxis are likely to overcharge tourists who don't negotiate fares. Ferries and minibuses are common ways for locals to get around but only operate at select times and in limited areas.
Read also: Complete Guide: Cairo - Luxor Flights
The local taxis are horse-drawn carriages. These are a delight, but drive a hard bargain and settle on a price before departing. Travel on the West Bank by donkey, bike, or automobile taxi. You can rent donkeys for the romantic approach to the tombs and temples of West Thebes. Bikes work for the cheap and hardy. A taxi is the quickest and most comfortable way to explore.
Here are plenty of different ways to get around Luxor;
- Luxor by Car: I wouldn’t recommend renting a car in Egypt, there wasn’t one I saw without a dent! I would opt to hire a private car or taxi to take you around the sites. I’d hire one to take you over to the West Bank for temple-hopping one morning.Then another to visit Karnak and Luxor temple the next day. At night, I hired a cab to take me to Karnak both ways.
- Luxor by Horse and Carriage: Luxor is very traditional and before cars were even a thing, horse and carriage ruled the scene. Today, you will find many horse and carriages parked up along the Corniche to take you around the city. Again, make sure you negotiate.
- Luxor on Foot: Luxor is safe to walk around Luxor even at night along the Corniche, to reach restaurants, and to visit Luxor Temple which is centrally located. Karnak is a little further from the main hub of the city, so I wouldn’t walk there unless your hotel is close.
- Luxor engine boat/felucca: To cross over the Nile to the West Bank is actually a quicker option than driving by car. It will cut the journey by 30 minutes! Or you can visit Banana island as well.
Cruise on the Nile in a felucca, the traditional sailboat, for just a few dollars an hour. A Felucca ride on the Nile is a must when in Luxor or Aswan
Where to Stay in Luxor
There are plenty of options to suit all budget types but my personal favorite is a classic.
- Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor: This hotel is one of the top luxury hotels in Luxor. The Old Winter Palace Luxor is a historic hotel and a lasting legacy from the golden age of Egyptology. Lord Carnavorn himself announced the discovery of King Tutankhamun by Howard Carter at Valley of the Kings from its very steps in 1922. Other famous residents include Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie who stayed here for inspiration to write her infamous novel ‘Death on the Nile’. Today it’s a Sofitel and a 5* resort which makes a statement on the edge of the East Bank of the Nile. The Sofitel is a classic luxury hotel with a formal feel. Think chandeliers, fireplaces and old-world decor. It’s got a gorgeous pool, lots of outdoor spaces for drinks and shisha and manicured garden views from many rooms.
- Hilton Luxor Resort and Spa: This is where we stayed and it was our favorite hotel in Egypt. The views of the Nile River and the balloons that drift over the West Bank are magical. The rooms are large, clean, and quiet. There are several onsite restaurants, a pool, and a fitness room.
- Steigenberger Nile Palace: I opted for the more modern Steigenberger Nile Palace, an outpost of a German hotel chain, a short drive away. I got upgraded to a suite when I checked in, and I’m pretty sure I’ve lived in smaller apartments in New York, Chicago and Washington, D.C. My suite had a balcony large enough to host a dinner party and a Nile River View. Best of all- it had a comfy, king-sized bed, a separate sitting area and a slice of welcome cake. There are five restaurants on-site, including Nubia, which has one of the best breakfast buffets I’ve ever seen and a juice bar for custom-made fresh juices. There’s also a pool, a gym and a spa.
- Nefertiti Hotel Luxor: This hotel overlooks the Luxor Temple. Rooms can accommodate up to four people.
What to Eat in Luxor
Luxor's North African location and popularity with tourists mean you'll find everything from authentic Egyptian establishments to European-inspired restaurants and Western fast food joints. However, most of the region's best restaurants specialize in Egyptian and Middle Eastern fare.
Though you may not be familiar with Egyptian cuisine, many Egyptian dishes feature elements of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern fare. You'll notice, for instance, that most Egyptian meals incorporate bread, rice and vegetables like beans, lentils and onions. Because of the city's proximity to the Nile, fish is also offered on many restaurant menus.
- Sofra Restaurant & Café and Al-Sahaby Lane Restaurant: For some of Luxor's best Egyptian dishes, dine at Sofra Restaurant & Café and Al-Sahaby Lane Restaurant. Both restaurants sit within walking distance of the Temple of Luxor and serve a variety of traditional Egyptian specialties. Al-Sahaby Lane is a traveler’s restaurant trifecta-a rooftop with Luxor Temple views, good food and great service.
- A Taste of India Asian & International Restaurant Lounge Bar: Indian and Asian dishes like butter chicken and Thai red curry are on the menu at A Taste of India Asian & International Restaurant Lounge Bar.
- Pizza Roma-it: If you are looking for good pizza and pasta, go to Pizza Roma-it.
- 1886 Restaurant at the Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor: And if you crave an upscale, French-inspired meal, eat at the Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor's 1886 Restaurant. Seasonal specialties include grilled lobster, pressed duck and risotto.
Must-See Attractions in Luxor
Luxor is like an open-air museum and so you have endless historical sites to explore, including snooping on real-life excavation projects going on at the Theban Necropolis. These are strictly under wraps but, they’re discovering new tombs all the time! Here are some must-see attractions in Luxor:
East Bank
- Karnak Temple: This massive temple complex is Ancient Egypt’s ultimate masterpiece built by 30 different pharaohs over 1,500 years. It’s #1 for a reason because it’s definitely the most impressive temple in all of Egypt. Karnak is the world’s second-largest temple. Don’t miss the famous obelisk by the female pharaoh Hatshepsut and an epic avenue of sphinx statues that leads straight to nearby Luxor Temple. If you’re visiting in summer, get there early to beat the heat. In the evenings there’s a Sound & Light show that’s a bit dated but still enjoyable for the ambiance.
- Luxor Temple: Luxor Temple breaks the mold of traditional Egyptian temples. Forget somber tributes to deities. Giant statues and towering gateways dominate the scene all designed to glorify the rulers themselves. Insider’s tip: Luxor Temple stays open until 10 pm so it’s perfect for a pre-sunset visit. Watch the last rays of sun bathe the temple in a golden glow. Then marvel at the statues and columns under nighttime illumination.
- Luxor Museum: This museum opened in 1975 and it contains artifacts that were found in the Luxor area, as well as artifacts from the tomb of King Tutankhamun. The Luxor Museum is open until 10 pm so it’s a great to visit at night after a day spent sightseeing in the sun. It’s air conditioned and offers a nice escape on balmy afternoons.
- Mummification Museum: This is a small, somewhat interesting museum about the mummification process. Not only can you see mummified people but there are also mummified cats, birds, and crocodiles.
Recently, a huge restoration project is unearthed the 2.7 km (1.7 mile) Avenue of Sphinxes that link Karnak and Luxor Temples. The Avenue of the Sphinxes opened in late 2021. You can enter the Avenue of the Sphinxes at either end or in the middle. From what I understand, if you plan to walk the entire Avenue, you will need a ticket for both Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple.
COMPLETE PRESENTATION OF THE KARNAK TEMPLE, EGYPT SOUND AND LIGHT SHOW.
West Bank
- Valley of the Kings: Luxor’s Valley of the Kings is a giant graveyard of pharaohs dotted with amazing underground tombs to explore. Some are as vibrant as if they were painted yesterday. The most famous tomb here (but not the most impressive) is Tutankhamun, unearthed by Howard Carter in 1922. But there are about a dozen other tombs normally open to visitors (out of a total 63). Your Valley of the Kings ticket gives you entrance to three tombs of your choice - the guards punch your ticket each time you enter a different tomb. Seti I is by far the most stunning tomb in the valley and worth the 45 USD ticket price!
- Hatshepsut Temple: Located at Deir al-Bahri, the Temple of Hatshepsut is an architectural marvel. And it’s a testament to the female pharaoh and the sun god, Amun. Imagine colonnades adorned with exquisite carvings, statues of Hatshepsut herself radiating power, and an altar dedicated to the life-giving sun god, Ra. Reliefs throughout the temple showcase Hatshepsut’s achievements, including a daring expedition to Punt where she procured exotic treasures.
- Colossi of Memnon: While the colossal Colossi of Memnon attract throngs of visitors, they were just the gateway to a grander masterpiece that’s now vanished. These two enormous figures once guarded the entrance to the Temple of Amenhotep III, once the largest funerary complex in Thebes. They face Eastwards towards the River Nile and Thebes, city of the living. It’s free to visit but you’ll need to pay for a tripod ticket here (£20EGP), I took this and got told off!
- Valley of the Queens: These magnificent tombs of Ancient Egypt’s powerful queens are sometimes even more colorful and elaborate than their counterparts at the Valley of the Kings. And they’re absolutely worth visiting. Some people even say the Valley of the Queens (and princesses) is more impressive than the kings - and far less crowded. The Tomb of Queen Nefertari is the star attraction and it’s absolutely worth the additional hefty ticket price. Visitors are allowed inside for about 15 minutes but a tip goes a long way. A standard ticket gives you entry to three different tombs of your choice (just like at the Valley of the Kings).
- Deir el-Medina: It includes homes, bakeries, workshops and small temples that offer a fascinating glimpse into the everyday lives of these forgotten craftsmen. Tombs like Sennedjem and Pashedu are just as colorful and well-preserved as the kings and queens. It’s also far less crowded than the Valley of the Kings. And it’s a refreshing look at life in everyday Ancient Egypt.
- Ramesseum: Ramses II was a prolific builder across Ancient Egypt who built the Ramesseum as a mortuary temple to his own glory. The Ramesseum boasts reliefs that chronicle the pharaoh’s most triumphant moments, from his (embellished) victory over the Hittites at Kadesh to a raid on what was likely Jerusalem.
- Hot Air Balloon Ride: Forget your snooze button for a day because a hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings is so worth the wake-up call. Imagine this: you’re floating above some of the world’s most legendary temples with epic views of the Theban hills below. And sunrise over the valley is magical as the pinks softly illuminate the fields (it’s an incredible photo op). The hot air balloon ride last about 45 minutes just as the sun rises over the city.
Tips for Visiting Luxor
Here are some essential tips to make your trip to Luxor smooth and enjoyable:
- Be aware of your surroundings: Severe crimes are not common in Luxor, but violent political protests and terrorist attacks can occasionally occur in densely populated areas. To avoid any incidents, keep an eye out for suspicious activities.
- Be stern when declining services from hawkers: Street vendors - who frequent Luxor's top attractions - are notoriously aggressive, so don't hesitate to say no and walk away from any uncomfortable encounters.
- Be a smart packer: Bathrooms at many sites rarely have soap and will not supply toilet paper without receiving a tip. You'll also come across extreme temperatures most times of the year. To adjust smoothly to Luxor's culture and climate, pack some basic essentials like a roll of toilet paper, hand sanitizer and bottled water. Pack conservative and light clothing for the heat. For outfit inspirations you can check out my ultimate women’s packing list for Egypt here.
- Be mindful of photo and video restrictions: Some attractions, such as the Valley of the Kings and the Luxor Museum, do not permit photography or videography on-site, so do your research ahead of time and leave the camera behind when necessary.
- Haggle for souvenirs: Like shops and street vendors in other African cities, storefronts and market stalls in Luxor advertise high prices (and even higher rates for Western tourists). It is expected to barter when shopping for goods, so strike up a friendly negotiation to ensure a fair price. If you're no longer interested in an item or a merchant grows aggressive, say no and walk away.
- Tip wisely: You'll be asked for tips regularly, but don't feel pressured to tip for every service received. Instead, only tip when you've had an above-average experience. No tip will ever be enough. Tip what you believe is fair by local standards and ignore the inevitable plea for more. Unfortunately, if you ever leave them satisfied, you were ripped off.
- Agree on cab fares at the start of your ride: Taxi drivers have a tendency to charge Westerners extra for cab rides by saying prices in dollars or euros. To avoid confusion and overpaying for rides, decide on the route and price (in Egyptian pounds) before getting into a taxi.
- Local laws to note: Alcohol consumption is only allowed inside licensed restaurants and bars.
- Cultural Norms: People dress conservatively in Egypt. Skip the tank tops and shorts and aim for outfits that cover your shoulders and knees. I opted for lightweight maxi dresses and capri pants.
Best Time to Visit Luxor
The best times to visit Luxor are from March to April and between October and November. These brief shoulder seasons offer pleasant temperatures, small crowds and more affordable hotel rates. Luxor's coolest temperatures can be enjoyed in winter, but you'll also find hordes of tourists and high prices during this season. And though you'll snag great hotel deals once summertime rolls around, unbearably hot temperatures make touring Luxor's sights between May and September uncomfortable.
The coolest months are December through February, with average daytime temperatures ranging from 22°C to 28°C. It is perfect for sightseeing without breaking a sweat. Besides, winter is also festival season, with events like the Luxor African Film Festival and the Egyptian International Marathon. However, this popularity means tourist spots can get crowded, and flights and hotels may book up quickly.
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