Spectacularly located in the heart of northern Kenya, Lewa Wilderness is one of Kenya’s original bush homes. It is set on the breathtakingly beautiful Lewa Wildlife Conservancy (previously known as Lewa Downs) in the foothills of Mount Kenya - Africa’s second tallest mountain, and just a 50 minute scenic flight from Nairobi.
From the moment you land in your small plane, you will be captivated by Lewa’s extraordinary scenery, its fascinating history and wonderfully diverse wildlife. The adventure begins as you are driven from the airstrip in an open-topped safari vehicle to the lodge - this game drive provides an exhilarating taste of what lies ahead!
Lewa Wilderness Lodge offers one of Kenya's oldest private safari experiences. For more than 40 years guests have visited this remarkable region to share an adventure like no other. Sitting in the shadow of Africa's second highest mountain, the lodge is at the heart of the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, recently named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
History of Lewa Wilderness
Lewa dates as far back as 1922 when the Craig/Douglas family first started running Lewa Downs as a cattle ranch, encouraging the resident wildlife to co-exist with the ranch cattle. Since 1922, the Craig/Douglas family ran Lewa Downs as a cattle ranch encouraging the large number of resident wildlife to co-exist with the ranch cattle.
In 1972, David and Delia Craig began converting their farm into a rhino conservation area to help protect the last remaining members of the species and at the same time, they embarked on yet another dream - to welcome guests into their original lodge and family home - the first private ranch in Kenya to do so. Started in 1972, Lewa Wilderness lodge is an integral part of the history of Lewa Downs as it transformed from a farm into a not-for-profit wildlife conservancy that has gained an international reputation for extending the benefits of conservation beyond its borders. Lewa Wilderness was born!
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In 1989, David and Delia retired and their son, Will and his wife, Emma, took over the running of the lodge. In 1990, David and Delia Craig retired and their son, Will and his wife, Emma, took over the running of the lodge.
Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is what it is today because of a lady called Anna Merz, who became a dear friend of David and Delia Craig, having stayed as a guest at Lewa Wilderness. She approached them in the early 80s with a request: horrified by the population decline of rhino throughout Africa, Anna wanted to build a rhino sanctuary to protect the last remaining members of the species.
The breeding program and conservation were extremely successful and began attracting tourists from around the world, anxious to see some of the last remaining rhinos in Kenya. Today, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is a UNESCO World Heritage Site owned by a charitable organisation benefiting wildlife, environment and the participating communities. Lewa Wilderness, enjoys welcoming guests to explore this incredible landscape and share in our conservation promise.
The Lodge and Its Ambiance
Lewa Wilderness (previously known as Lewa Wilderness Trails or Wilderness Trails Lodge) is set on a steep valley side looking out over the Western Marania Valley and a spring below. Lewa Wilderness is a beautiful fenced lodge, with a homely rather than wild feel. It is now the family home of, and run by, Will and Emma Craig, with two fantastic managers who help to maintain its very friendly ambience. Indeed, the whole place is exceptionally welcoming, as if you're a guest in an old friend's home.
Lewa Wilderness is extremely friendly and relaxing. We really enjoyed the homely feel, and the way you could just help yourself to drinks from the cabinet. That the lodge gets a lot of repeat business is testament to this atmosphere, and also perhaps to the fantastic variety of activities - you have to come back for more. Many of the staff clearly enjoy their work and have been at the lodge for years; this really shines through and we were very impressed by the friendly service.
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Lewa's communal areas are made up of several buildings. The main house, which is where Will and Emma live, has a lovely veranda that looks over a large lawn. It is here that tea is served in the afternoon, and guests are also welcome to borrow some of the numerous books in the library. A separate building houses a lounge area furnished with comfortably worn chairs and sofas, where countless artefacts collected over the generations lend an eccentric, slightly random style. Here there is also a self-service bar where guests are invited to help themselves if a member of staff is not around.
Meals are either served on individual tables or around a large communal table in an open-sided (but covered) room with stunning views towards the steep valley side opposite. Wildlife is regularly seen from the dining area and guests reported regularly seeing giraffe and elephants over lunch. Throughout the gardens there are often numerous birds, especially around the rooms, as well as game that wanders through - when we last stayed here dik dik, a 'semi resident' giraffe, elephant and rhino were all seen in and around the grounds.
Much of the furniture at the lodge is made in a local workshop, where 15 people are employed and trained. They make some beautiful pieces which can be bought by visitors in the lodge's wonderfully large and well stcoked gift shop, and shipped anywhere in the world. We enjoyed visiting the spinnery and watching a group of ladies producing beautiful crafted rugs made from the wool from local sheep, which are used throughout the lodge and as well as being sold internationally.
Accommodation
Over time, the tents at Lewa Wilderness have been replaced with permanent stone cottages. Each of these nine cottages is different, but all are very spacious and have a rustic feel, with rough stone walls and polished stone floors. Chunky wooden furniture and woven carpets made in the workshop on site are balanced by some softer armchairs and sofas, lending an almost English country-home feel.
The cottages fall into two categories:
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- Three very large garden cottages, or family cottages, are located in lush gardens near the main communal areas. They have vaulted, thatched roofs, with divider walls extending to room height. Each has two bedrooms (one with a king-size bed, the other with two queen-size beds), each with its own bathroom, and a shared lounge area with a fireplace. These cottages are perfectly suited for families or couples travelling together (two separate groups would never be booked in here).
- Six newer hillside cottages, are down a number of steps a little below the main gardens, and have stunning views over the valley. These have one incredibly spacious en-suite bedroom, some with bathtubs, as well as a lounge area with fireplace. Although not hugely far apart, the cottages are well screened by the shrubs and feel quite private. One of the hillside cottages is designated as a family room, with two en-suite bedrooms, a central lounge with fireplace, and a large outdoor deck with its own private plunge pool. It is ideal for a family, honeymooners or two couples travelling together.
Activities at Lewa Wilderness
Community-Based Conservation at Lewa Wildlife Conservancy
The beauty of Lewa Wilderness isn’t just in the incredible scenery and wildlife explored daily with game drives - but in the wealth of activities and experiences to be had at every turn. Situated on the edge of one of Kenya’s most private wildlife and environmental conservation projects, the wildlife-rich Lewa provides guests a home-away-from-home experience that’s hard to find these days. As you'd expect, game drives are a big part of any stay here, the lodge introduced electric safari vehicles - one of the first places in Africa to do so. We have consistently seen amazing numbers of black and white rhino over the years of staying here!
However, there is a host of other activities at Lewa Wilderness too. At the lodge itself there's a tennis court, infinity pool and ping pong table (with equipment to borrow), and a little away from the main lodge, is a gym - allowing you to spin, cross-train or row in a deeply shaded area with superb views.
From the nearby stables, guests (both beginners and experienced) can take part in a riding safari on one of their 40 horses - an excellent way to get much closer to the plains game than you thought possible. The equipment and saddles are all in good condition. At present there is a weight limit of 90kg/200lbs for the riding, however the lodge is looking to bring in stronger horses who can cater for higher weights. Depending on availability it's also possible to go for a ride on one of their camels, which we really enjoyed on a previous visit.
Full-day visits to Il Ngwesi Maasai community, a two-hour drive north of the lodge, offer insight into local life. A further option is a guided safari walk and fly-camp (at an additional cost), run from the lodge through a sister company, Walking Wild. While you're out walking, camp hands with camels will move ahead to set up a small fly-camp. This is a great way to get out and experience the bush in a much simpler set up. You can often do something similar after a bush breakfast, too, coming back to camp with a camel train. Picnic lunches can also be organised at a nearby waterfall. The walking wild experience takes a little planning and this is best booked in advance.
It is also possible to take a full-day visit to the Ngare Ndare Forest which is around a 90-minute drive from the lodge. Explore this tropical forest via the canopy walk, one of the longest of its kind in Africa, enjoy a picnic lunch and go swimming in the pools. Or visit the Lewa HQ to learn more about the ongoing conservation work and dog tracking in the area. Ask us for more details on these additional excursions. Also at extra cost (from US$700), guests can be taken for a scenic flight in an incredible retro-style yellow bi-plane to get an aerial view of the conservancy and Mt Kenya. This is one of only two such bi-planes in the whole of Kenya - it's all very Out of Africa! Keen marathon runners will no doubt have heard about the annual Safaricom Marathon, voted one of the world’s ‘must-do’ marathons - the challenging course takes you through the exceptional terrain of the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy! For runners, it is the ‘ultimate bucket list challenge’ - a true life-changing experience which, ‘true grit and mental toughness’ aside, remains true to its core reasons for inception over 17 years ago - conservation and the enhancement of community livelihoods.
Family-Friendly Activities
The lodge welcomes children of all ages. There is quite a range of activities for children at Lewa Wilderness. As well as horseriding, children can take part in Maasai bushcraft such as learning how to throw spears and shoot with a bow and arrows. There is also a spring nearby where they can go crab fishing, and jump from a low cliff into the water. An electric fence around the lodge keeps out big game, and there is plenty of space on the lawns for children to run around after a long game drive. They provide cots, highchairs and a booster seat for the vehicles. They can offer babysitting from a member of staff from the housekeeping, but they will not be specifically trained in childcare. Lewa Wilderness is a great option for families with children.
Dining Experience
We have always found the food at Lewa Wilderness to be good, and all very fresh and flavoursome. Most of the ingredients come from the farm belonging to the lodge, which has a huge vegetable garden as well as cows, goats, pigs and chickens. They even make their own goats' cheese.
Breakfast is sometimes taken as a picnic if you're heading out for an early game drive. If you're in the lodge for breakfast, a selection of fruit and cereals will be followed by a cooked breakfast. Tea, coffee and juice are also available. Lunch is always a varied buffet. When we have stayed here previously we were offered chicken curry, vegetable curry, dhal and various accompaniments such as papadoms and chapatis. This was followed by a selection of cheese and biscuits and finished off with a refreshing tropical fruit sorbet. Dinner is usually a three course set menu. We started with butternut soup and fresh bread, followed by beef bourguignon served with potatoes, carrots and courgettes. Dessert was a rich tiramisu. All drinks at the lodge are included. Champagne and special whiskies can be arranged for an extra cost if ordered in advance.
Conservation Efforts
Lewa Wilderness is renowned for its extensive conservation efforts within the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. One notable project is its commitment to protecting endangered species, including rhinos and Grevy’s zebras. Additionally, Lewa Wilderness engages in habitat restoration initiatives, such as reforestation and water management, to maintain biodiversity and mitigate human-wildlife conflict. The conservancy also prioritizes community development, providing education, healthcare, and livelihood support to local communities, fostering a sustainable coexistence between humans and wildlife.
The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy now boasts 62,000 acres of conserved land and the richness of wildlife here is astounding with over 70 different animal species and 350 bird species. Lewa Wildlife Conservancy provides a safe haven for a wide variety of wildlife, and is particularly famous for its rhino and Grevy zebra programs.
The rhino program began in 1986 when the Craigs set aside 5,000 acres of land to set up the Ngare Sergoi Rhino Sanctuary. Lewa Conservancy continues to run one of the most successful rhino protection programs in Africa. A unique species of zebra, wherein the late 1970s, over 15,000 roamed the wild.
About half of Africa’s 1.3 million elephants were wiped out, between the 1970s to the 1980s, due to the rapidly expanding ivory trade. The success of the Conservancy is very much due to the Lewa family understanding that wildlife conservation cannot succeed without support from neighbouring communities.
The Lewa team have always recognized that the future of Kenya’s wildlife lies with the next generation. They have been instrumental in setting up the Lewa Education Programme (LEP) to help local children get a good education and teach them the importance of the wildlife. The Lewa Education Programme (LEP) which contributes to the sponsorship of 21 institutions where about 7,000 students can learn about wildlife and acquire the necessary skills to preserve Kenya’s wildlife. Lewa offers support through infrastructure and curriculum development, student empowerment programmes, teachers’ training and provision of school supplies.
A similar program is the Conservation Education Programme (CEP) which was established in 201 to provide holistic conservation and environmental education for visiting school groups. Every year, more than 3,000 Kenyan students visit Lewa to learn about endangered species, the environment and their role protecting it.
Additionally, Lewa Wilderness Lodge provides employment and training opportunities on-site such as handmade or crafting souvenirs that can be sold to guests. Today, the LEP sponsors 18 schools with a total population of 6000 students. A visit to a school can be arranged during your stay.
Lewa Wilderness offer internships from the Lewa Education Program for these kids to come in a learn about the Tourism industry. The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is a model and catalyst for the conservation of wildlife and habitat, achieving their goals through a few core areas of action.
Wildlife Sightings
Our travellers’ wildlife sightings from Lewa Wilderness Since mid-2018, many of our travellers who stayed at Lewa Wilderness have kindly recorded their wildlife sightings and shared them with us. The results are below.
Lewa Wildlife Conservancy is a rhino sanctuary, and this and other reserves in Laikipia feature unique subspecies, such as reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich, gerenuk, and Jackson’s hartebeest and a number of other mammals, birds and reptiles.
With the precipitous decline of black rhinos across Africa in the 1970s, government wildlife agencies and conservation organizations increasingly turned to private landowners, non-profit organizations and indigenous communities to protect the few remaining animals. In Kenya, the number of black rhinos dropped from an estimated 20,000 to fewer than 300 animals, and the only way to prevent their complete extinction was to create high security sanctuaries.
In 1983, David and Delia Craig set aside 5,000 acres of their ranch as a rhino sanctuary, and the rest is history, as they recruited extensive support to help track, capture and relocate every remaining wild rhino in northern Kenya for breeding and protection.
The conservancies of the Laikipia District have varying concentrations and species of wildlife, and the below chart helps to illustrate major wildlife sightings often experienced in the area.
| Animal | Presence in Laikipia |
|---|---|
| Black Rhino | High |
| White Rhino | Moderate |
| Grevy's Zebra | High |
| Reticulated Giraffe | Moderate |
| Somali Ostrich | Moderate |
| Gerenuk | Moderate |
| Jackson’s Hartebeest | Moderate |
Safety and Practical Information
Guests can charge their electrical devices in their rooms 24 hours a day. WiFi is available in all guest rooms. Water is pumped from the lodge’s own spring.
Every safari involves some risk, though the type and level vary depending on where you stay and the activities you take part in. Spending a night in a hotel is very different from camping in a remote bush setting; game drives usually carry fewer risks than walking safaris or canoe (mokoro) trips. Camps are often unfenced, wildlife often passes through, and medical care in remote areas can be distant.
Guides and camp staff follow established safety procedures, but it’s vital to listen closely, supervise children, stay alert, don't take any risks you aren't comfortable with and travel with comprehensive insurance. With sensible precautions, safaris are unforgettable and rewarding.
The nearest doctor is at Lewa Clinic, which is half-an-hour's drive away. The nearest hospital is an hour's drive away in Nanyuki, where the cottage hospital is a highly rated local facility. Askaris guard the property day and night, and guests are escorted back to their rooms at night. There are fire extinguishers around the property and staff are trained how to use them.
Balcony warning The balconies of most rooms aren’t suitable for children under six. There is a central safe in the main house for valuables. All major credit cards are accepted, with a 3.5% surcharge for transactions below U$50.
Cash payments may be made in most major currencies such as US dollars, euros and GB pounds, as well as Kenyan shillings.
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