East Africa, particularly Kenya, has historically been renowned for its vibrant textiles and patterns, leaving a significant mark on the African diaspora. This region, encompassing countries like Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Djibouti, Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Somalia, boasts a unique identity in clothing rooted in its rich history and diverse cultures.
Maasai people at a market.
Traditional Textiles of Kenya
Kenya is the birthplace of several traditional fabrics, including the Kitenge and Kikoi textiles. These fabrics hold cultural significance and are integral to the region's fashion identity. Here's an overview of these fabrics:
Kitenge
The kitenge is a cotton fabric with floral designs, produced in 40-meter rolls and sold by the meter or yard. It can be worn as a wrap or tailored into various garments for both women and men, such as shirts, pants, or dresses.
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Kikoi
Kikoi is a cotton striped fabric with fringes at the narrow ends, measuring about 1.5 meters by 1 meter. It is typically worn as casual wear, wrapped around the lower torso by men or as an upper body wrap by women. Most kikoi fabric is locally manufactured, with some imports from India.
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One intriguing aspect is Kenya's ability to outsource certain textiles while preserving its traditional practices.
Cultural Influences on East African Fashion
As part of the multicultural continent of Africa, East Africa has its own unique identity when it comes to clothing.
The Maasai People
The Maasai people, a Nilotic group predominantly found in Kenya and northern Tanzania, maintain a very traditional style of clothing. Until the 1960s, their wardrobe was mainly made from sheep and other animal skins and calf hides. The Shúkà, a custom dress sheet, is wrapped around the body, and Maasai tribes from Tanzania are known for crafting simple sandals from animal hides.
The Kanzu
The Kanzu is an important traditional dress throughout East Africa, with variations across different tribes and ethnic groups. The Ugandan Kanzu was introduced to the Buganda kingdom through Arab traders. Originally made from barkcloth, it resembled the Arabic thobe but with subtle design differences. Major embroidery is often added around the collar, sleeves, and belly region for style. Today, the Kanzu is commonly made from materials such as cotton, wool, silk, and linen.
Kitenge: A Versatile East African Fabric
Kitenge is a widely popular East African cotton fabric that has spread to Central and West Africa. Similar to Kikoy and Kangas, Kitenges are made with thicker cloth. In Malawi, Zambia, and Namibia, it is known as chitenge. Generally worn by women, these yard-sized sheets are suitable for tying around the waist or chest like a wrapper or over the head like a scarf. Kitenge is a versatile fabric, particularly those made with cotton, and is increasingly used to create stylish clothing with colorful designs and patterns.
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Kanga Fabric.
Kanga: A Historical East African Cloth
Kanga is another piece of fabric that has been part of East African fashion since the mid-19th century. Inspired by Muslim women in Zanzibar and Mombasa who sewed printed bandanas from Portuguese merchants together, Kangas are usually bought as a pair and then cut into two equal pieces and sewn along the raw edges before being worn. The khanga, a vibrantly colored East African cloth, was created on the island of Zanzibar in the mid-1880s. Kangas are often distinguished by a border along all four sides (pindo in Kiswahili), a central design (mji), and a written message (jina). They are usually sold in pairs and are popular for their many uses: as skirts, shawls, turbans, blankets, and even baby carriers.
Traditionally, khangas are kept in a grandmother’s chest and folded carefully with a touch of perfume or incense. The garments are given as gifts to a young girl when she leaves home, to a bride at her wedding, and to a mother at the birth of a new baby. Text was first added as part of the khanga’s design in the early 1900s and was originally printed in Arabic. Today, these Kiswahili “text messages” are an integral part of the cloth’s appeal. Khanga text speaks truth with poetic layers of cultural meaning, often using proverbs or religious messages to share an idea or make a point. Historical events, both local and global, can also be recorded on the khanga.
This traditional khanga features the popular cashew shape on its border, as well as a text message, which means “I do not want evil” in Kiswahili.
Diversity in African Clothing and Fashion
African clothing and fashion offer a diverse look into different African cultures. Clothing varies from brightly colored textiles to abstractly embroidered robes and colorful beaded bracelets and necklaces. Given Africa's vastness and diversity, traditional clothing differs across countries. Many West African countries have distinct regional dress styles resulting from long-standing textile crafts in weaving, dyeing, and printing, coexisting with Western styles.
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Regional Variations
- Northeastern Africa (Egypt): Influenced by Middle Eastern cultures, exemplified by the simply embroidered jelabiya.
- Northwest Africa: The djellaba shares properties with the boubou, dashiki, and Senegalese kaftan.
- Sahelian Africa: The dashiki, Senegalese kaftan, and grand boubou made from Bazin material are prominent.
- East Africa: The kanzu is the traditional dress worn by Swahili-speaking men.
- Southern Africa: Distinctive shirts and long dresses are worn.
- Horn of Africa: Attire varies by country; in Ethiopia, men wear the Ethiopian suit, and women wear the habesha kemis; in Somalia, men wear the khamis with a koofiyad.
South African Fashion: A Historical Perspective
South Africa, with its immense cultural diversity, expresses its identity through various facets of life, including fashion. Clothing choices reflect convenience, style, political beliefs, religious views, and life perspectives.
The earliest vestiges of South African attire date back to around 2000 years ago with the Khoisan people. They utilized available resources like softened animal skins and plants for attire. The introduction of metal provided more fashion choices.
The Bantu expansion led to the formation of the Kingdom of Mapungubwe, which flourished through trades involving clothes, glass beads, and Chinese porcelain in exchange for gold and ivory. Colonization significantly altered South Africa, with European materials and Eurocentric views heavily influencing traditional fashion.
Key Developments in South African Fashion
| Time Period | Event | Impact on Fashion |
|---|---|---|
| Early 19th Century | Introduction of glass and plastic beads from Europe | Added new materials to traditional beadworks. |
| Late 19th Century | Introduction of Isishweshwe fabric | Became a representative fabric of South Africa, blending with local fashion. |
| Apartheid Era | Western fashion dominance | Traditional dress served as a form of resistance and expression of identity. |
| Post-Apartheid Era | Celebration of ethnicity | South African designers incorporated African elements into European-style clothing. |
Fashion as Resistance and Identity
During the apartheid period, unique dress styles distinguished South African indigenous communities. Wearing traditional dress also served as a form of resistance against the government. Leaders like Nelson Mandela used traditional garments to express their identity and demand control of their country.
Post-apartheid fashion celebrated ethnicity, with designers bringing African touches to European-style clothing. Brands like Sun Goddess, Stoned Cherrie, and Strangelove drew inspiration from traditional dresses, incorporating elements like head wraps and A-line skirts inspired by the Xhosa people.
Sun Goddess Fashion.
Contemporary African Fashion
South African fashion is a fusion of different styles, cultures, and responses to social circumstances, blending African heritage with foreign influences. As of 2016, cities like Accra, Ghana, have seen significant development in shops, clothing boutiques, hotels, and restaurants. There's increasing recognition of art through fashion in countries like Kenya, Morocco, Nigeria, and South Africa.
Despite the global disconnect in the Western world's interpretation of African fashion, many designers have made an impact on the high-end fashion industry by adding a twist to traditional African garments. New designers are expanding their entrepreneurial footprint and showcasing the versatility of African fashion.
Johannesburg has intentionally built a fashion district in the inner city, gaining global recognition. Established and developing fashion houses contribute to the district's growth, making South Africa's Fashion Week a major destination in the worldwide fashion scene.
European Influences on African Fashion
European influence is commonly found in African fashion. For example, Ugandan men have adopted "full-length trousers and long-sleeved shirts," while women have incorporated influences from "19th-century Victorian dress," such as "long sleeves and puffed shoulders, a full skirt, and commonly a colorful bow tied around the waist." This style is known as a busuti.
Pairing modern Western clothing, like T-shirts, with traditional wraps is also a popular trend. Rural communities have started incorporating secondhand Western clothing into their everyday style. These used clothes, often called Mitumba, are a common sight, though surrounded by controversy.
The Secondhand Clothing Industry
Sub-Saharan African countries are major destinations for imported used clothing. While initially intended for lower-class communities, secondhand clothing is now found across social classes due to its variety and affordability.
The secondhand clothing industry has both positive and negative impacts. Some countries have banned the import of secondhand clothes to control resale, while others argue that the industry creates jobs in sorting, washing, and transporting clothes. Another impact is that secondhand clothing has become more common than classic African textiles in some regions, like Zambia, where it is known as salaula.
While some regions prefer to maintain traditional styles, others are more open to incorporating Western styles into their fashion.
