Discover Hogsback: A Mystical Village in the Eastern Cape

Hogsback is a little village hidden away, high up in the Amatola mountain range. About Hogsback, it is surrounded by indigenous afromontane forest that provides a certain mystical, magical charm that soothes the spirit and rejuvenates the soul. If you’ve never been, consider it a bucket-list destination you absolutely must visit in your lifetime. We have so much to offer! Hogsback is a foodie destination.

The Origins of Hogsback's Name

Hogsback was named, it is said, for the three ridges on the Amathole Mountains that resemble the outlines of a hog's back. There are two (or maybe more) theories as how the village received its name. Some think it was named for Captain Hogg, Commander of Fort Michell. The earliest known written reference to 'Hogsback' was found in the journal of the painter Thomas Baines, who passed the 'Hogs Back' while on his travels deeper inside South Africa in 1848.

A Historical Perspective

The nearby Xhosa tribes called the surrounding area Qabimbola (meaning 'red clay on the face') as the surrounding clay was used for face painting. Gaika's Kop was one of the Xhosa strongholds. British troops were later stationed here and a number of forts were built to guard the border with the Xhosa. One of these forts was Fort Michell, named after Colonel Michell of the Warwickshire regiment, who was at one point in charge of troops in the area. The name has since changed to Fort Mitchell.

The conflict between the British and Xhosa continued further north and a small settlement began to grow. Some of the first inhabitants of Hogsback were Summerton, Odendaal and Booysens. Thomas Summerton, a gardener from Oxford, has a legacy that survives in the local gardens and his attempts to re-create the English countryside.

This can be seen in apple orchards, avenues lined with hazelnut trees, berry fruits and the flowering plants that have spread throughout the surrounding area. European flowers, bushes and trees include rhododendrons, azaleas, fruits and berries. In the 1880s, Collins built a small hotel, called the Hogsback Hydro, of which later became the Hogsback Inn. Hunterstoun, the private estate of David Hunter, was built in 1910. Hunter was the honorary secretary and treasurer of the Lovedale Institution and the Victoria College near Alice. Forestry began in 1883 with a survey to determine the best areas for planting. The Hogsback pass was opened in 1932.

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Hobbiton and the Tolkien Connection

Hobbiton-on-Hogsback was started in 1946 as a holiday camp for children who could not afford to go on holidays and with the aid of several organisations and private donations, had grown to an outdoor education facility for underprivileged children. The Amatola Forest in the Hogsback area is often claimed as J. R. R. Tolkien's inspiration for The Lord of the Rings, in particular for his fictional forest of Mirkwood. There are numerous theories as to why many people seem to connect South African-born author JRR Tolkien's fantasy world, Middle-earth (the setting of The Lord of the Rings and other works), with this little village deep in the Eastern Cape forests. Some say his son was a British air force officer in these parts, and that he sketched scenes from Hogsback and sent them home to his father. The link between Tolkien and Hogsback would seem to be a back formation from the establishment in 1947 of Hobbiton on Hogsback, a holiday and educational camp for underprivileged children. It’s often said about Hogsback that it inspired JRR Tolkien’s The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings. I’m not too sure about that since he was only 3 years old when he left South Africa forever, but Hogsback has certainly taken up the mantle.

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The Charm of Hogsback

At the turn of the century, local farmers and townsfolk started to build holiday homes here and its charms became more widely known. The cottages were mostly of wattle and daub with thatched roofs. The area is known for indigenous forests, waterfalls and trout fishing. And when the mountain mists clear, you're left with an astounding view of waterfalls, valleys and one of South Africa's most prized forest strongholds. Like any enchanted forest, the walks are legendary. Most of the older Hogsback gardens are inspired by the gardens of England.

Activities and Attractions

Hogsback is well-known for its amazing hiking routes, from easy to more challenging, there is a scenic route for everybody! The many hiking trails lead adventurous visitors past glorious waterfalls and past ancient trees. It is also home to the last remaining Cape parrots and the colourful Knysna Loerie. There are a number of hiking routes and walks that take walkers through the forests, up mountains, past waterfalls and to viewing points and views of the area. Hogsback is also a favourite destination for birding. For example, little groups of sunbirds enjoyed flitting about our unit, evading our best attempts to photograph them. If you have time for only one activity in Hogsback, make sure it’s a hike on one of the numerous mountain trails to one of the many beautiful waterfalls.

General information on Hogsback such as maps of walks, hiking and mountain bike trails are available for purchase from the Hogsback Tourist Office located near the entrance of the village. These trails vary from short easy walks to trails taking 3-4 hours and longer.

St Patrick's on the Hill is a small chapel consisting of two combined rondavels, a neat thatched roof, above which rises a single cross. The church also boasts a 'bright' garden, which is full of rhododendrons and azaleas. There is a stone arch with a brass bell that stands as a memorial for the Revd Dr Bride Dixon, first woman priest in South Africa, and doctor on the mountain for many years. The chapel was built in 1935 and is a regular place of worship, and although it is officially part of the Anglican Diocese of Grahamstown, the church is open to people of all Christian denominations such as Presbyterians, Methodists, Nederduits Gereformeerde Kerk (Dutch Reformed Church) and Anglicans. The chapel began when Kenneth Hobart Houghton, the owner of the property conceived of the idea to give to his wife a special place to worship. It was first designed as a single rondavel and in time as the local congregation grew, it became necessary to extend it. The second rondavel which gives it its characteristic butternut shape was added in 1992.

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Accommodation and Dining

Hogsback have many accommodation establishments. Hogsback is very much a tourist destination and as such, there are numerous accommodation options in various categories. My number one accommodation venue and recommendation is The Edge. If at all possible, as they are often booked up well in advance, do try and experience your Hogsback visit by staying at The Edge, and especially in one of their cliff-side cottages. Their units are almost entirely self-catering (except for a few B&B rooms) but there is a restaurant on-site for those who prefer to dine out. It is also one of numerous quaint eateries dotted around town. If your budget doesn’t allow for The Edge, or you prefer to experience more social accommodation, then you simply must opt for Away With the Fairies, a backpackers and campsite, and also where you’ll find the very famous bath on the edge of the cliff. Most people tend to eat out at the various restaurants that are available. If, like us, you’re budget-conscious, consider bringing all you’ll need for self-catering, e.g. meal options and the basics to make it.

Planning Your Trip

There are numerous routes to Hogsback, and not all are recommended. In fact, some should be avoided at all costs. So definitely make sure you are taking the right route. Depending on your origin, you may wish to fly in via East London, rent a car and drive to Hogsback via the all-tar road that snakes through King William’s Town and Alice. Though the town of Hogsback itself is almost all gravel, most cars will do fine there as long as you drive slowly and avoid the main road’s potholes. If you prefer to drive all the way, you can make an epic road trip of it from Cape Town or Johannesburg. However, this is not recommended for a short stay or if this is your only destination, as it is quite a long journey.

From Cape Town, you can either drive all along the Garden Route, or alternatively through the Karoo and via small-town destinations like Graaff-Reinet and Cookhouse. This also takes the road via Alice, eventually. From Johannesburg, you have a number of options. If you do take the road from Gariep, make sure you’re heading to Cradock, and then Fort Beaufort and Alice. This is tar all the way to town. The northern “entrance” route via Cathcart includes a 60km stretch of gravel that is not advised for regular vehicles. Though not impassable, it will be slow going and not all vehicles will manage. We managed it in the Ossemwa but it isn’t called the Ossemwa for nothing. The road via Cathcart is mostly recommended for 4x4s or 4x2s.

The town has a tiny fuel station, a small grocery store as well as a bottle store. The roads in Hogsback itself are mostly gravel. The main drag is a former stretch of tar that is now potholed quite badly. It’s easier driving on the gravel roads that lead off the main road. As the Eastern Cape is currently experiencing a severe drought, anyone travelling to the region is asked to bring their own supply of water. This helps ease the strain on local water resources.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Hogsback is right in the middle of winter. That says a lot coming from me, because I don’t enjoy the cold at all. But Hogsback is at its most magical during the cold winter months. Wake up to misty mountains, drift away in front of a warm log fire, snuggle close under a down duvet, warm up with some sherry, or get the blood flowing hiking in the mountains. And if you’re lucky, you might encounter snow.

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For me, however, the most perfect time to go to Hogsback is when you can coincide your visit there with a trip to the nearby town of Makhanda (formerly Grahamstown) for the National Arts Festival. However you make your way, or whenever you choose to go, visiting the town of Hogsback will definitely make for a very special holiday.

Climate Information

Hogsback has a cool Oceanic Climate (Köppen Cfb), which compares similarly to the climate of England. It has a climate range from as low as 3.5 °C in July to as high as 34.9 °C in January. Hogsback receives an average annual precipitation of 974mm.

Here's a summary of Hogsback's climate:

Month Average Low (°C) Average High (°C) Average Precipitation (mm)
January - 34.9 -
July 3.5 - -
Annual - - 974

Location and Accessibility

Hogsback is located roughly 30 km from town of Alice. Overall, it is in the central-southern part of South Africa, in the centre of the Eastern Cape province, and is roughly halfway between the town of Alice and the village of Cathcart. Nearby towns include Seymour to the west and Alice to the south, Cathcart, Whittlesea and the Waterdown Dam to the north and Keiskammahoek to the east. The village is located on the R345, that runs from Fort Hare up to Cathcart.

It is that time of year when we celebrate the cold here in Hogsback and warm up with some good vibes, shows, markets and food. TIME TO BOOK YOUR SEATS AT THOSE MAGIC HOGSBACK CHRISTMAS TABLES! 😋🤶🏼🧑🏻‍🎄🎅🏽🎄🍧🍾🎊🎉Six Hogsback Restaurants have delicious Christmas menus lined up for locals and visitors.😋🤶🏼🧑🏻‍🎄🎅🏽🎄🍧🍾🎊🎉 Book now to avoid disappointment!

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