Hemingways Watamu: A Coastal Gem with a Rich History

Hemingways Watamu is more than just a beachside resort; it’s a refined gateway to the natural wonders of Kenya’s coastline, offering luxurious comfort with a taste of history and a strong connection to the marine life of the Indian Ocean. Nestled on the dazzling Turtle Bay beach, in the heart of the Watamu Marine National Park, this mid-sized resort and renowned game-fishing base is located about two hours’ drive north of Mombasa.

The story of Hemingways Watamu is deeply intertwined with adventure and literary legacy. Its name harks back to Ernest Hemingway’s stay in Malindi in 1934. A coastal institution since the 1960’s, Hemingways has been wooing guests with its inimitable charm and beautiful beachfront setting for over 30 years. Originally known as Seafarers, the hotel has come a long way since its humble beginnings as a local fisherman's establishment. It became 'Hemingways' in 1988, named after the famous author and explorer who was also a keen fisherman (the waters off Watamu offer some of the best deep sea fishing in Africa) and it very soon established itself as one of Kenya's most iconic beach hotels, renowned for its exceptional personal service and captivating ambience.

As post-safari chill-out spots go, Hemingways Watamu has raised the coastal bar to all new heights! Couples and families alike can enjoy a seamless transition from exhilarating safari to relaxing beach without leaving Kenya. Ensuring that Watamu does not fall behind on the luxury curve, investors were quick to respond to the rapidly growing needs of travellers by making gainful investment in infrastructure and modish resorts to meets the needs of varied travellers. Although Hemingways Watamu is not a recent establishment, having catered to its guests for the better part of 40 years, it has, over time, had mega-makeovers to keep it updated. Today, it caters to luxuriously to travelers seeking personalized experiences.

Hemingways Watamu is part of the same small group that owns the long-established and popular luxury hotel Hemingways Nairobi and the safari camp Hemingways Ol Seki Mara in the Mara Naboisho Conservancy. The Hemingways Group has ties to Kenya dating back over 40 years. Hemingways Watamu opened in 1988, and the Group has expanded and invested in travel and tourism in Kenya and East Africa since then. Hemingways Collection is East Africa’s original luxury hotel brand, delivering exceptional experiences in some of the country’s most breathtaking locations.

Location and Setting

The resort is ideally situated along the stunning Turtle Bay beach, which forms part of the Watamu Marine National Park - a protected area rich in coral reefs, colorful marine species, and clear turquoise waters. The Watamu stretch of coastline is less developed and much quieter than the popular Diani beach south of Mombasa. For those looking for a relaxed and quieter beach stay then this could be a good option. Guests at Hemingways Watamu can step right from their rooms onto the soft, powdery sand, or take a short boat ride to some of the best coral gardens in East Africa.

Read also: Dreamy Treehouse in Kenya

Touring Kilifi County offers a delightful blend of coastal beauty, lovely beaches, cultural richness, natural wonders, and fascinating ancient ruins.

Other Amazing Lodges Around Kenya:

  • Homa Bay County - Rusinga Island Lodge, Mfangano Island Lodge
  • Isiolo County - Joy's Camp Shaba, The Sanctuary at Ol Lentille
  • Kilifi County - Vipingo Ridge, Kamili House, Casa Dalton, Watamu Tree House, Hemingways Watamu, Medina Palms, Kudu Camp Galana
  • Kitui County - Ithumba Camp, Ithumba Hill Camp, Man-Eaters Camp
  • Kwale County - The Maji Beach Boutique Hotel, Swahili Beach Resort, Lantana Galu Beach, Kinondo Kwetu, Sands at Chale Island
  • Laikipia County - Elewana Loisaba Star Beds
  • Lamu County - Peponi Hotel, Shela Fort, The Majlis, Manda Lodge
  • Makueni County - Umani Springs Lodge
  • Meru County - Elsa's Kopje, Lewa Safari Camp, Sirikoi
  • Nairobi County - Emakoko, Giraffe Manor, House of Waine, The Glee
  • Nakuru County - Loldia House, Lake Elementaita Serena
  • Narok County - Mahali Mzuri, Sand River Masai Mara, Royal Mara Safari Lodge, Kilima Camp, Fairmont Mara Safari Club
  • Nyeri County - The Fairmont Mt.

Accommodation

One of the most appealing features of Hemingways Watamu is the quality of its accommodation. The resort offers 60 rooms, all have views of the Indian Ocean, but are divided into a couple of different categories, in two different 'wings'. The re-invented Hemingways Watamu is a refreshingly stylish 39 room boutique hotel offering a combination of beautifully appointed ocean view rooms and luxe apartments with one, two and four bedrooms. There are 21 luxury apartments (one bedroom, two bedroom and four bedroom options available) and 39 comfortably appointed rooms (13 Deluxe rooms on the upper floor, and 26 standard rooms on the lower and ground floor). The hotel rooms have had a full renovation in recent years, and are a good option for those on a slightly more economical stay. However we were most impressed with the apartments which were spacious, light, airy and luxuriously fitted. They come complete with large balconies, a lounge and fully equipped kitchen. Even if you had no intention of doing any self catering, we would still recommend these rooms as they offer more space.

Each room is designed with modern amenities and often features stunning views of the ocean or the resort’s landscaped gardens. It has great option too: 1,2,3 or 4 bedroom ocean facing apartments; and deluxe ocean facing rooms, designed and finished to the highest degree of coastal luxury. Interiors are characterised by plantation shutters, colour schemes of sea and sand, touches of driftwood and an all-round laid-back modern coastal vibe.

Hemingways’ reception, guest services, well-stocked shop and cashier/foreign-exchange desk are under a large roof of makuti (palm-leaf tiles), creating a comfortably cool welcome around the hotel’s central area. Here you will also find the on-site activities office and a small little coffee shop serving hot drinks and pastries. The large open-sided main restaurant is just around the corner near the two modest-sized (20m) teardrop-shaped pools, and one smaller childrens pool, all overlooking the ocean, and extensive terrace area. Also close to the pool area is the beach bar restaurant, with its TV and brightly re-coloured mounted game-fish trophies on the walls. There is a quieter pool set further back in the tropical gardens, which is designed to be for adults only. Nearby is a small gym and spa offering a range of massages and beauty treatments.

Read also: Watamu Luxury Escape

Direct-dial phone in rooms. There’s WiFi access throughout the hotel, plus a business centre. In-room TVs in Executive Suites only.

Culinary Delights

Dining at Hemingways Watamu is a culinary journey that celebrates the flavors of the coast and international cuisine alike. Hemingways main restaurant is open for breakfast and dinner. Two free small bottles of water per day per guest are included. Seafood is a highlight on the menu, with daily catches from local fishermen forming the base of delicious dishes like grilled lobster, calamari, and snapper. For those who fish, the Chefs will prepare your catch exactly as you would like it. You might like Japanese style sashimi, finely sliced with soya sauce and wasabi or maybe blackened Cajun style fillets, or simply steamed!

Activities and Experiences

Watamu Kenya Travel Guide: 18 BEST Things To Do In Watamu

Hemingways Watamu is not just a place to relax; it’s also a hub for unique experiences. Hemingways is an internationally recognised game-fishing centre and has four boats, ranging from 33ft to 54ft, all equipped for this exhilarating pursuit (and most fish these days are tagged and released). The season starts in July and becomes busy from October or November when the south-east kusi wind changes to the north-east kaskazi. This period, until April, is when big billfish such as swordfish, marlin and sailfish, can be caught.

The best-known activity at Hemingways Watamu is what Ernest Hemingway came to the Kenya coast to do - game fishing - though he allegedly stayed up late drinking at the Blue Marlin in Malindi and never actually saw any rod-and-line action!

Other activities include:

Read also: Kenya's Coastal Paradise

  • Water Activities: Snorkeling, diving, and deep-sea fishing are popular thanks to the rich marine life and coral reefs offshore.
  • Snorkeling within the marine park: Exceptional snorkeling conditions in the park allow all visitors easy access to the spectacular undersea life.
  • Sunset Dhow Cruises: A highlight in Watamu, experience the creek atop a traditional swahili dhow as it sails serenely along the length of the creek whilst you sip on an ice cold dawa cocktail.
  • Kite surfing: Watamu provides the perfect environment to learn and improve your skills, making this a great option for all ages.
  • Wind surfing: Watamu provides the right conditions with constant wind and flat water, it is a great way for the family to be active on the water.
  • Wake Boarding & Water Skiing: With Tribe Watersports, Mida Creek offers the best conditions for wakeboarding and waterskiing in Kenya.
  • Stand Up Paddle Boarding: Stand Up Paddle Boarding is fun for everyone and great way to see marine life.
  • Dolphin-Watching: Enjoy a Dolphin viewing cruise - Watamu is a haven, a natural sanctuary for families of Dolphins and best seen from November to April when the waters are calmest.
  • Cultural & Historical Site Visits: Explore some of the ruins and historical sites found in the area. Gede Ruins, an archaeologist’s delight, was one of the ancient Arab towns that dotted the East African Coast. Or, enjoy a half day tour to Malindi just for general shopping with a chance to visit the Old Town, the famous Jumaa Mosque and historical sites such as the Vasco da Gama Pillar, the Portuguese chapel and the British governors house which now hosts the Mijikenda cultural insight among others.
  • Wildlife Experiences: Whale watching (seasonal). Arabuko Sokoke Forest is east Africa’s largest remaining area (162 square-miles ) of indigenous coastal forest. Bio-ken Snake Farm offers a fascinating introduction to these incredible creatures. Sabaki Estuary is a must see site for birders which hosts large visiting stocks of Madagascar Pranticole.
  • Mambrui Sand Dunes: The specks of gold in the sand “the dunes of Mambrui” is a haven for travelers just looking to chill.
  • Marafa Hell’s Kitchen: A sight to behold and a must visit when in Watamu. Located 25 miles from Malindi, in the quiet town of Marafa, this 'mini grand canyon' is known locally as “Nyari” which translates to “The place broken by itself”.
  • Canoes and Creek Rides: Get out on the water at sunset in a locally made bamboe canoe with a fisherman guide, your camera and your balance!

The beach itself is quite small, and due to the very tidal nature along this coastline, is not particularly conducive to sunbathing. However, you can go snorkelling straight off the beach, with complimentary loan of equipment.

Fishing is still a big thrill for visitors here as are the sunset dhow cruises on Mida Creek, and, of course, playing a round of golf at either Vipingo Ridge or Malindi Golf & Country Club. The native fishing ngalawa boats remain a common sight. A time warp, setting it out as a sleepy fishing paradise.

Watamu Beach in Kenya

Commitment to Sustainability

Being located in a marine protected area, Hemingways Watamu has made conscious efforts to support sustainability and eco-tourism. The resort works closely with conservation groups to protect sea turtles, coral reefs, and marine ecosystems. In July 2018, Hemingways has announced its partnership with EcoWorld Watamu, an NGO which employs disadvantaged locals to collect plastic debris along the beach and teaches them how to proper reuse or recycle it. All plastic waste from the hotel’s operations is sent to EcoWorld where it gets melted before being used for other purposes. The initiative not only helps remove plastic waste from the ocean, but also generates income for locals, as they use the recycled waste to create artworks, furniture, fence posts, and trinkets which can be further sold. Results are already visible. The hotel has banned the use of plastic straws within its premises, and has also replaced several palm leaf roofs with ones made from recycled plastic. In addition, Hemingways Watamu seeks to educate guests on the impact that plastic waste has on the fragile environment.

Guest Services and Safety

At Hemingways Watamu, the staff go above and beyond to provide exceptional service. From the moment you arrive, you’re welcomed with warm smiles and professional care. A fee-paying doctor visits Hemingways Mon-Fri 7.00 - 8:00am and 1.00¬-2.00pm. Extra charges for call-out. Cash payments may be made in US dollars, euros, pounds sterling or Kenyan shillings.

Every safari involves some risk, though the type and level vary depending on where you stay and the activities you take part in. Spending a night in a hotel is very different from camping in a remote bush setting; game drives usually carry fewer risks than walking safaris or canoe (mokoro) trips. Camps are often unfenced, wildlife often passes through, and medical care in remote areas can be distant. Guides and camp staff follow established safety procedures, but it’s vital to listen closely, supervise children, stay alert, don't take any risks you aren't comfortable with and travel with comprehensive insurance. With sensible precautions, safaris are unforgettable and rewarding.

Who Should Visit?

Whether you’re a honeymooning couple, a family seeking beachside fun, or a solo traveler looking for a peaceful retreat, Hemingways Watamu caters to all types of guests. The peaceful ambiance, combined with modern amenities and exceptional natural surroundings, makes it a top choice for both relaxing holidays and thrilling coastal adventures.

Children are welcome. Hemingways Watamu is a child friendly property that will work well for families.

Planning Your Visit

Hemingways is easily accessible via a domestic flight on Air Kenya from Nairobi's Wilson airport to Malindi (on the coast) followed by a 20 - 30 minute road transfer. Weather-wise, Watamu tends to be at its best from December through until late April when you can expect temperatures in the high 20's with a nice coastal breeze. The entire team is eager to help you plan your memorable holiday. Long, short, big and small, we’ll help you work it all out. Whether short, long, alone or with family or friends, you’ll find the ideal hotel here.

Popular articles:

tags: #Kenya