The Great Fish River: A Lifeline of South Africa's Eastern Cape

The Great Fish River, or Groot-Visrivier in Afrikaans, is a significant river stretching 644 kilometers (400 miles) through the Eastern Cape province of South Africa. Known as the Rio de Infante by the Portuguese and Oub (“Fish”) by the Khoekhoe, this river has played a vital role in the region's history, ecology, and economy.

The coastal area between Port Elizabeth and the Fish River mouth is known as the Sunshine Coast.

Location of Eastern Cape Province in South Africa

Geography and Hydrology

The Great Fish River has a length of 430 miles (692 km) and a drainage area of 11,900 square miles (30,800 square km). The river originates east of Graaff-Reinet and runs through Cradock.

Its main northern tributary, the Great Brak River, rises in 7,000-foot- (2,100-metre-) high mountains 30 miles (48 km) south of the Orange River and northeast of Middelburg. Further south the Tarka River joins its left bank. The Tarka River, coming from the northeast, and the Baviaans and Kat rivers farther south are the main eastern tributaries.

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The direction of the Great Fish River is mainly southward; however, about halfway along its course it turns east and joins with the Koonap River before entering the Indian Ocean 37 miles (60 km) southeast of Makhanda (formerly Grahamstown).

The river is generally permanent, having water all year round, although its headwaters rise in an arid region, and the natural flow can be sluggish in the dry season beyond the ebb and flow of the tidal reaches; now, water from the Orange River system can be used to keep up its flow in dry periods.

In dry years water is pumped from the Orange River to the Great Fish River. The Orange-Fish Tunnel carries water over a distance of about 50 miles (80 kilometers) for this purpose. Canals also take the water from the Great Fish Valley southwest to the Sundays River and Gqeberha. Another tunnel, called the Cookhouse Tunnel, links the Fish-Sundays canals. The tunnel is 8 miles (13 kilometers) long. This water is used for agriculture and industry.

The Great Fish River Excursion

Historical Significance

The Nguni peoples had settled as far south as the Great Fish River by 1500 ce. During the 19th century, the river formed the border of the Cape Colony and was hotly contested during the Xhosa Wars of 1779 to 1878 between the Xhosa nation on one side and the Afrikaner colonists and the British Empire on the other, and in 1835, the Fingo people were permitted to settle on the river's banks.

Between 1846 and 1847, the Fish River mouth area became a hive of activity during the War of the Axe, one of several frontier wars at the time between the Xhosa nation and Britain.

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A ferry was constructed at the Fish River to link the Cape Colony (western side of the river) with Waterloo Bay (the small bay near the mouth of Old Woman's River which now flows through the Fish River Sun resort). Waterloo Bay, named after the first ship which unloaded cargo in the bay, served as a landing place for soldiers and supplies in the war.

The main military camp was on the eastern bank of the Old Woman's River, called Cape Maitland, in honour of Sir Peregrine Maitland, Governor of the Cape Colony. The name was later changed to Fort Albert in honour of Queen Victoria's husband. The camp consisted of huts and tents surrounded by an earthwork and was abandoned at the end of the war.

Some of the soldiers that died during the occupation of Waterloo Bay were buried in a small cemetery near the eastern bank of the Old Woman's River. The graves were not marked but it is believed that members of the 6th and 45th regiments and Cape Levy were buried there.

A large civilian camp with the accompanying trading stores and inns which followed the military activities was apparently situated on the western side of the Old Woman's River. The remains of the vessels Catherine and Justina can still be seen by divers.

Great Fish River

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The Great Fish River Complex

The Great Fish River Complex is made up of rugged hill country, succulent bushveld in the valleys and scenic rivers courses. This protected wilderness area lies in the Great Fish River Valley, some 38km from Grahamstown, and is actually a combination of three reserves i.e. the Double Drift Game Reserve, the Sam Knott Nature Reserve and the Andries Vosloo Kudu Reserve.

The Great Fish River Complex (formerly Kudu Reserve) covers some 45 000 ha and offers splendid views of river gorges, rugged hills and dense semi succulent scrub known as Valley Bushveld. There are several species of antelope including Eland, Kudu and Springbok as well as Buffalo, Black rhino, Zebra, Giraffe and Hippo.

Troops of baboons and monkeys are common, while a sighting of the elusive leopard or shy Cape clawless otter is a bonus. The bird watching is rewarding and some 200 species have been recorded in the area, with good viewing of various water birds and raptors.

Accommodation in the park varies from self-catering bungalows to luxury lodges. Activities include game viewing, bird watching, hiking and fishing.

Ecology and Environment

At the river mouth, the climate is temperate with around 650 mm (26 in) of rainfall that falls mainly during spring and autumn. At the river mouth, there is Valley thicket, dune thicket, riparian vegetation and fynbos. The eastern Cape giant cycad, the red and the white milkwood are protected trees.

The Fish River mouth area supports several species of large and small mammals including five antelope species, bushpigs, various rodent species including mongoose, hyrax, hares, rats and mice, bats, and the shy Southern African wildcat, the small spotted genet, striped polecat and the Cape porcupine.

Tourism and Accommodation

The Fish River Sun Hotel and Country Club Resort is a Sun International resort destination at the mouth of the Fish River on the south-eastern coastline of South Africa. The Fish River Sun opened its doors in March 1989 as a hotel and casino.

The 184,000 hectare property on the eastern banks of the Fish River fell within the then Ciskei region, a former Bantustan homeland during the apartheid administration. The hotel, casino and golf course continued to be a popular and successful tourism attraction in the region, mostly due to the casino, as licenses are awarded sparingly in South Africa.

The resort establishment suffered a huge knock when its casino license was not extended after its ten-year period, ending in 1999. The accommodation format was converted from a hotel to a vacation club functioning on a timeshare basis.

The Eastern Cape Gambling Board granted another casino license in nearby Port Elizabeth, also operated by Sun International, in the Boardwalk Casino and Entertainment World Complex. There is a golf course designed by Gary Player and rated in the top 30 golf courses in South Africa. Old Woman's River runs through the course.

In contrast to the club-like funk of nearby Ecca Lodge, Great Fish River Lodge is (unashamedly) more traditional looking, its peaked thatch roofing, raised floors and wraparound verandas very much in keeping with the kind of thing one might come across in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Set amongst thickets of Euphoria, the lodge consists of a main area and 9 suites.

Constructed about an enormous circular chimney breast, and characterised by polished concrete floors, exposed beams, Persian rugs, crystal glass collections, elegant lamps, a mix of antique and slumber seating, the main area includes a dining area, extensive decking, a lounge, library, bar and boma. And - as with Ecca - the service and food at Great Fish River Lodge is excellent.

The service, from floor to room care to guide is exceptional, with guests assigned their own butler, and the feedback has been unremittingly positive with regards to the style and skill with which every need is attended.

The food and drink is just as good. A mixed African and European-based cuisine, meals range from beef stir fry to lamb shank to pepper soup, while taster plates (served, seemingly, throughout the day) include kudu kebabs, duck wraps, biltong salads and so on, and on.

The suites at Great Fish River Lodge are equally fine. Raised, thatched and accessed by means of a wooden walkway, each room consists of a double bed, plunge pool, seating area, private balcony and en-suite bathroom. Here, clean lines, the occasional artefact, one or two pictures, the same sparkling floors, plenty of glass and a simple but antique-looking writing desk sets the scene for a warm brand of minimalism, a look and feel highlighted by the presence of a fantastically modern looking chaise lounge.

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