Marithé Bachellerie and François Girbaud started their company in 1964. They built a name for themselves in their native France, and by the 1980s they had crossed over to the US (thanks to an endorsement from Flashdance star Jennifer Beals). The 1980s to 1990s were the decades of biggest successes for the French brand, with a $900 million worldwide turnover.
Hip-hop has long had a close relationship with fashion, and as an aspirational, imported brand, Girbaud started getting name-checked in rap records from New York to New Orleans.
In the world of fashion, certain names transcend trends and decades, and Marithé + François Girbaud is one of those legendary brands experiencing a remarkable comeback. Known for their pioneering work in denim innovation and bold prints, this iconic French label is once again capturing the attention of style enthusiasts and collectors alike.
A vintage Girbaud jeans advertisement.
The Rise of Girbaud
Founded by the visionary duo Marithé Bachellerie and François Girbaud, the brand revolutionized the fashion industry starting in the 1970s. They are widely credited with transforming denim from a utilitarian fabric into a canvas for creativity and technical craftsmanship.
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Marithé + François Girbaud have always pushed boundaries beyond traditional denim. Their collections often showcase daring prints, unconventional cuts, and a commitment to craftsmanship, all proudly Made in France.
Key Innovations and Techniques
In 1995, Marithé et François began using new cutting and assembly techniques: laser, ultra-sound, techno-fusion. They then launched the new bleu éternel process (1997), which prevents indigo denim from fading. The garment remains soft, comfortable and retains its main properties: depth and authenticity of color.
Wattwash, the laser treatment of denim, artificially ages the fabric and reduces water consumption by 97.5%. What sets Marithé + François Girbaud apart is their meticulous approach to design and manufacturing. Their process combines advanced textile technologies with artisanal expertise, especially evident in their signature denim treatments.
Example of signature Girbaud Jeans design.
Early Innovations (1967-1977)
- 1967: Marithé and François experimented on imported denim jeans and jackets, washing the garments in local laundries to fade and soften them.
- 1968: They opened their own design studio and started buying denim from the US to create their own pieces under the label ÇA...
- 1972: To meet the growing demand for their pre-washed and faded jeans, Marithé and François found an industrial method to artificially age denim in industrial laundries.
- 1977: Marithé and François launched their iconic line CLOSED, marking a definitive break from the traditional five-pocket cowboy styles.
Since their invention, of the industrialisation of the washing process to artificially age denim, rebels and ou-tof-the-box thinkers, Marithé Bachellerie and François Girbaud have been at the forefront of innovation in their experimentation and development of materials, treatments, techniques and shapes.
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Expansion and Global Recognition (1977-1989)
- 1977: By partnering with Puritan Fashion in the United States, Marithé and François began their conquest of the American market.
- 1982: Marithé and François opened a showroom in New York and inaugurated the first Halles Capone franchise outside of France in Tokyo.
- 1986: The brand became part of V.F. Corporation, resulting in rapid market expansion.
- 1988: The designers’ reflection on anatomy, attitude, and movement culminated in “Métamorphojean” - sculpted, morphologically-seamed styles which created easier access to pockets and more room for movement.
- 1989: François Girbaud realised the faded jeans the crowds were wearing were effectively helping to destroy the ecological equilibrium of the planet, leading to a determination to invent alternative ways to make jeans.
Later Innovations and Sustainability (1993-2024)
- 1993: A new focus on alternatives to denim combined with research on cut and construction resulted in a new line: S.P.Q.R.CITY.
- 1995: The duo experimented with a new generation of modern synthetic fabrics, leading to innovations in assembly techniques using heat, laser, and sound.
- 1997: Consolidating their research into new cutting-edge technologies, Marithé and François launched their “Stealth” concept.
- 2003: Marithé and François discovered that as well as using light to cut fabrics, they could also use it to “engrave” them.
- 2011: Marithé + François Girbaud and Spanish machine manufacturer Jeanologia presented “Rebel not criminal” - their revolutionary approach to treating denim with environmentally-friendly laser and ozone technologies.
Laser technology used in denim production for environmentally-friendly treatments.
Marithé + Francois Girbaud have made it their mission to sensitize their contemporaries to the hazards chemicals involved in traditional denim treatments pose for the planet, and the urgency of the need to transform the industry. Sustainability remains a corner-stone of their research and work.
Always faithful to the "Orijeanators", creativity, know-how and technology remain at the heart of their company, as does the designers' desire to continually reinvent themselves. In this regard, Marithé + François Girbaud have recently signed a licensing agreement for Europe and the United States with the company We Care About. The relaunch planned for the end of 2023 is supported by a new economic model that aligns consistently with the philosophy and DNA of the brand.
The Shuttle Jeans
Girbaud Shuttle jeans weren’t just big, they were huge. The baggy, strappy denim was a wardrobe staple across the US in the early 2000s, and since then largely relegated to fashion’s dustbin.
Clothing company I.C. Isaacs bought the license to sell Girbaud products in the US from Vanity Fair Corp. in 1997. Then, in 1998, the company debuted the Shuttle. It featured a high waist, a baggy fit, and-the Shuttle’s signature feature-velcro straps that cinched the pants in the thigh and ankle.
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François Girbaud said the Shuttle was based on a combination of military and space-suit design (hence the name), and anamorphic art, which distorts images for effect. It was a hit, and in many circles is synonymous with the Girbaud name.
Between the Brand X, the Shuttle, and other products, I.C. Isaac’s Girbaud sales would go on to peak at $83 million in 2005, before crashing to $37 million in 2007, the last year for which the company publicly submitted an annual report.
Still, despite the declining sales, the cultural imprint of the Shuttle-and by extension Girbaud-had already been cemented for a new generation. The Shuttle made an appearance in the 2006 video for E-40’s “Tell Me When to Go” (1:33) and the brand got a shoutout on Boosie Badazz’s 2007 single “Wipe Me Down.”
Girbaud Canada: The French Connection
In an effort to extend the reach of the Marithe & Francois Girbaud jeans business, I.C. Isaacs & Co. signed a Canadian distribution agreement with Western Glove Works, producer of Silver Jeans.
Isaacs chairman and chief executive officer Robert J. Arnot said in a phone interview that its jeans license was extended to cover Canada last week, and the agreement with Western Glove Works was quickly reached on Monday. The jeans are produced mostly in Asia.
Arnot said the complexities of importing made it important for Isaacs to have a Canadian partner. “Logistically, it’s important to have the warehousing operation and logistics based in Canada,” he said. “A majority of the product comes in from Asia, and it becomes very, very difficult to distribute. It was best to partner with a strong company that has the logistics down, that is used to importing and that has the retail relationships.”
While Western Glove’s history is as a manufacturing company, president Bob Silver said the firm is broadening its horizons. “As the world changes, through GATT and everything else, the ability to produce 100 percent of your own goods is history,” he said. “Certain products we will always make here and certain we will never be able to.”
Silver said he believed the Canadian specialty-store market would embrace the Girbaud brand. “It’s one of the few companies that has real designers doing incredible things,” he said. “The history of their product is quite good, with one brief period of overdistribution.”
Arnot agreed and said, “Girbaud was successful in Canada in the past.
The Resurgence
After years of cult status among denim aficionados, Marithé + François Girbaud is experiencing a well-deserved resurgence. At DolceVitaHub, we are excited to expand our collection with a curated selection of Marithé + François Girbaud pieces.
Despite its influential status, Marithé + François Girbaud faced challenges in the late 2000s and early 2010s, including shifts in the fashion market and evolving consumer preferences. In recent years, Marithé + François Girbaud has made a dynamic return, reigniting interest through collaborations, renewed focus on sustainable and high-quality manufacturing, and a revival of their iconic denim craftsmanship.
Marithé Bachellerie and François Girbaud possess true complicity of vision. As “constructors of intelligent garments”, responding to shifts in society and lifestyle rather than generating trends for their own sake, “Fit, Form, Function” is still the mantra that drives their work and research today.
2016 : Marithé + François = Girbaud : film documentary directed by Jérémie Carboni starring Marithé Bachellerie, François Girbaud, Renzo Rosso (CEO of Diesel brand), Benjamin Cotto from Lilly Wood and the Prick band, Jacques Rozenker, Jennifer Beals, etc.
Marithé et François sont actuellement basés à Paris, gardant fermement le doigt sur le pouls. Ils continuent d'inventer et d'innover, répondant aux divers changements qui animent et influencent la société et l'industrie.
