Located in Nairobi’s business district, Gikomba Market is a famous and ever-busy open-air market bustling with commercial activities. The Gikomba market can be described as the epicenter of second-hand clothing redistribution in Kenya.
A Brief History
Gikomba was founded as early as the 1950s. Established in the 1960’s, the open air market is known for its assorted second-hand clothes. The convergence of transport routes from upcountry and a growing population with limited purchasing power in adjacent neighbourhoods fuelled the market's expansion. However, as the cost of living soared, residents set up makeshift kiosks and stalls to cater to the needs of the local community. Today, the Gikomba market stands as the region's largest hub for second-hand clothing.
The Heart of "Mitumba" Trade
The second-hand clothes are called Mitumba in Swahili - the language widely spoken in East Africa. In Swahili, we refer to second-hand clothes as ‘mitumba’, which translates to “bales” referring to the way they are packaged for resale. According to the Nairobi City County government, almost 100,000 people are engaged in various activities within Gikomba, Kenya's primary "mitumba" market.
As you approach the market, what welcomes you is the loud sound of enthusiastically enticing traders and hawkers inviting customers amid persistent hooting from usually rickety commercial taxis locally known as ‘Matatu’. It is common to hear traders wooing customers with phrases like: "Karibu customer, Mitumba kwa wingi’ which is loosely translated as "Welcome Customer, Mitumba in abundance here."
The market attracts thousands of people - both buyers and sellers - from Tanzania, Uganda, and other parts of Kenya. These countries are among top importers of second-hand clothes in East Africa with Kenya importing around 100,000 tonnes of such clothes annually, according to the government. Most second-hand clothes in Africa are imported from Western countries.
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How did Kenya end up receiving used textiles? It started as a way to provide clothes for the poor, and refugees. At that time the quality of clothes was unmatched, increasing the demand and ultimately paving the way for a huge resale industry.
WATCH THIS BEFORE GOING TO GIKOMBA!! Practical Tips For Shopping In Gikomba Market
The Rise of Mitumba
Market liberalization in the 1980s, which involved removing trade barriers and lowering costs, made mitumba more affordable and contributed to the decline of the local textile industry. By the mid-1990s, mitumba was more sought after than locally produced clothes.
Clothing donations originally were donated to charity shops, but when the volume exceeded local demand, the excess garments were sold to textile recycling companies. These companies sort, grade, and package clothes into bales for export to countries like Kenya. The global second-hand clothing trade is presented as part of a circular economy, keeping clothes in circulation for longer to create an environmental management system and keep them away from landfills, while also providing much-needed jobs.
Navigating Gikomba Market
It is a maze of makeshift stalls, corrugated iron roofs, and narrow pathways that pulse with life. As you step in, you’re immediately met by the loud voices of sellers who hope to convince you to buy from them. Navigating the market requires caution as you have to be mindful not to be whisked away by the numerous middlemen who try to lure you to stalls where clothes are often overpriced and of questionable quality. Here, fashion finds a second life.
The market is always buzzing with shoppers moving in waves as they rummage through heaps of clothing to find their perfect match, either for their own closets, or for resale in their shops and online stores. Amid the market, you will find heaps of discarded offcuts on the floor - evidence of alterations and upcycling. Some parts of the market resemble a patchwork carpet of fabric scraps, each telling the story of garments once too large, torn, or stained that have now been transformed into something wearable once again. Each time I go to the market, I come across clothes with tags from charity shops like Goodwill and even Oxfam.
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''I have known this market since I was a kid. 'I'm now 41 years old. All my clothes are from here,'' says John Gathee, a resident of Nairobi. Goods at the Gikomba market ''are not expensive and are unique,'' says Grace Karangu, a regular buyer at the market. She described the goods at the market as ''good quality.'' However, one's bargaining ability is crucial in getting the best price, saving extra money and dealing with the traders' tactics.
The market opens throughout the week but it is more lively and busy over the weekend with increasing sideline social activities like music. The majority of Kenyans especially those living in the capital Nairobi are familiar with the market since childhood. People go with their families for their best wears.
Challenges and Future Prospects
But African governments are taking measures to ban the importation of second-hand clothes from outside the continent. After a meeting of the Council of Ministers on the Africa Continental Free Trade Agreement (AfCFTA) last week in Nairobi, the AfCFTA Secretary General, Wamkele Mene, said that the decision was crucial towards boosting textile industries in Africa.
“The decision of the Council of Ministers is a strong message that our single market will not be used as a dumping ground for used clothes coming from outside Africa,” Mene was quoted by the local media as saying.
For Joyce Ndung’u, a trader at Gikomba market, a ban on the importation of second-hand clothes should be gradual because a hasty decision could affect the source of livelihood of people like her. The second-hand clothes business is ''my source of livelihood. I don't know any other job,'' she told TRT Afrika. She advised the authorities to look for a ''better way of growing our local industry.''
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On October 15, 2022, he urged President William Ruto and Governor Sakaja to declare the Gikomba market a disaster area. City Hall also pledged to issue a title deed for the Gikomba market and fence it as part of its strategy to prevent constant fires and protect businesses. In his campaign manifesto, Governor Sakaja pledged to set up a fire station at Gikomba market to help deal with recurrent fires.
The aftermath of the early morning fire that razed a section of Gikomba market on 1 December 2023.
Here is a timeline of some fires that have occurred in Gikomba Market:
| Date | Description |
|---|---|
| June 2015 | Fires broke out twice in the market in May and June. |
| June 2018 | 15 people died and at least 60 were injured when a section of the market dealing in timber and clothes burnt down. |
| November 28, 2021 | As Nairobi was experiencing heavy rainfall, traders were once again crying in pain as properties of unknown value were destroyed in another mysterious fire. |
| December 1, 2023 | A section of Gikomba market was razed by an early morning fire. |
“Some of these traders burn the place in order to be compensated by insurance after they cannot restock. If this is true, then the same is quite alarming since the insurance claims are ever increasing and so are the premiums," said then Nairobi Senator Johnson Sakaja in 2021. In August 2021, over 900 traders at Gikomba sued the Nairobi county government, demanding Sh20 billion in compensation due to constant fires at the market.
More Than Just Clothes
Although the Gikomba market is best known for clothes, traders also sell food items and kitchenware.
Gikomba Today
Recognising the potential within Gikomba, banks have since 2007 established branches near the market. Traders, buyers and transporters at Gikomba Market.
If you live in Nairobi or you’re visiting and love a good bargain, Gikomba Market is one place you simply can’t ignore. The moment I arrived, I was greeted by a wave of activity. Gikomba is busy. People are everywhere - walking, bargaining, calling out, weaving through tight spaces with armfuls of clothes or pushing loaded mkokoteni carts. It’s loud, it’s alive, and it doesn’t stop. At first, it can feel overwhelming, especially if it’s your first time.
Gikomba is most famous for its second-hand clothing, and for good reason. I found stalls packed with piles and piles of clothes - from jackets and jeans to baby wear, dresses, office wear, shoes, and designer labels if you’re lucky. Yes, it’s crowded. Yes, it’s dusty in some parts. But it’s also full of life and community. Vendors are friendly (though persistent), and most are open to negotiation. I’d recommend dressing simply and comfortably - closed shoes are a must - and carrying small change in a secure bag.
Gikomba Market is not for the faint of heart, but for those willing to brave the crowds, it’s a treasure trove. I left with a bag full of affordable, quality items and a deeper appreciation for Nairobi’s market culture. It’s a place where every corner tells a story, and every item has potential. If you haven’t been - go. If you’ve been - go again. You never know what you might find.
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