Nestled along South Africa’s renowned Garden Route, approximately 5km east of the holiday town of Plettenberg Bay, lies Emily Moon River Lodge. Built on a ridge, this characterful boutique hotel overlooks the meandering Bitou River and the surrounding bird-rich wetlands, offering an enviable position with expansive views.
Map of Garden Route, South Africa
Previously known as Mullers Lodge, it has been owned by the Valentine family since 2006.
A Unique Blend of Comfort and Character
Emily Moon River Lodge has a quirky and relaxed feel in the main area, yet the accommodation is of a high standard and with a lot of attention to detail. The lodge is just 15 minutes from Plett’s beaches, and just a few minutes from the N2 highway, but so undeveloped it feels as if you are in a nature reserve, with marvellous bird life spotted from your veranda.
Owners Mark and Christine Valentine are collectors of artefacts from around the world and have their own interiors shop in Johannesburg - hence the interesting collection of pieces that have found their way to Emily Moon. Dealers in tribal art, they have filled the lodge with objets alongside arches and door frames collected from their travels through Africa and Asia.
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From the entrance, large carved Zanzibari wooden doors lead into an enclosed courtyard dotted with artefacts from all over Africa, then on to the reception area and small curio shop. The spirit of Africa is in every archway, every antique table and in the collectors’ items which adorn every nook and cranny.
An enviable position offering expansive views of the Bitou river snaking its way through bird-rich wetlands, before finally emptying into the broad flat mouth of the Keurbooms lagoon, which is the northern boundary of popular Plettenberg Bay.
Luxurious and Spacious Suites
Emily Moon River Lodge has ten suites. Of these, eight boast uninterrupted river views from high wooden decks, whereas two are set a little further back, and have both private courtyards and their own raised decks affording views of the surrounding bush and the river in the distance.
All the suites are light and spacious, with wooden floors and high raftered ceilings. Neutral creams and browns are the norm, accented by touches of blue or red, with tasteful African artefacts and artwork adding further individuality.
Each suite has a carpeted entrance lobby with an area to store luggage and a wardrobe containing an electronic safe, a hairdryer and even an iron. The bedroom has a king-size or twin beds with white cotton bedding, feather pillows and a coloured throw at the foot of the bed. A sofa and a low coffee table face large glass sliding doors, which open onto a wooden deck, most with river views. There's a large fireplace as well as a satellite TV and a stocked minibar, hidden within a cabinet.
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Tea- and coffee-making facilities are provided, but drinks from the minibar and snacks (biscuits, biltong and crisps) are at additional cost. Outside on the deck are a few comfy chairs and a small table offering a quiet spot to relax and enjoy the views.
A spacious bathroom with underfloor heating incorporates a bath with river views through a large window, a separate glass-enclosed shower, double basins and a toilet.
Two of the suites at Emily Moon are suitable for families. Room 7, with views of the river, has stairs leading from the double room to another room on a lower level with twin beds, a small shower room and its own private deck. Room 10, which is one of the 'courtyard' rooms, has a separate en-suite twin room leading off the main bedroom. And the two ‘courtyard’ rooms can also be joined to make a three-bedroom suite.
Emily Moon River Lodge, Plettenberg Bay, South Africa
Dining at Emily Moon
Emily Moon has two restaurants - Emily’s and Simon’s Bar - that are both very popular and open to outside guests. Bookings are essential during the busy holiday seasons over the Christmas and Easter periods, and the South African June/July and September school breaks - although they do try to keep tables for lodge guests.
Emily's Restaurant is light and airy, with large glass sliding doors that open up onto a wide deck where tables and chairs are set out under sun umbrellas and trees overlooking the Bitou River. Inside, where you'll find more tables, there are cowskins on the wooden floor, and on the walls hang a selection of animal horns and framed old African prints. Cheerful sofas are set in front of a large fireplace, which is decorated with colourful carved wooden fish - this corner adding a splash of colour to the room. The style is wonderfully eclectic, combining both antique and a more contemporary design, the rustic almost shabby look balanced by smart velvet chairs, crisp tablecloths and silver cutlery.
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Simon’s Bar was converted to a pizzeria around 2016 - and claims to produce the best artisan pizzas along the Garden Route. Simons Bar, located above Emily’s Restaurant, is beautifully designed with vintage boat engines decorating the walls and in the centre a wood-fired pizza oven that produces the best artisan pizzas in the Garden Route. It’s also beautifully, and very cleverly decorated, with vintage boat engines, old wooden water-skis hanging on the walls, and other eclectic artefacts dotted around. Simon’s Bar is usually only open for dinner from Tuesday to Sunday, but also opens for lunch during the December and January.
A buffet breakfast is laid out on a large wooden table and usually consists of fresh fruit, a selection of yoghurts, freshly baked bread and pastries and fruit juice. A hot breakfast is also available, cooked to order, with fresh coffee and tea.
For lunch there is an à la carte menu; we enjoyed delicious homemade beef burgers, while the kids had hake and chips.
Dinner at Emily’s is also à la carte, although slightly more formal. Our selection of starters comprised goat's cheese salad, cauliflower soup, kingklip samosa (a local South African fish), local mussels and ostrich tortelloni. The main course was a choice of grilled beef fillet, mussel and prawn cartuccio (a seafood pasta served in foil), chicken curry, roast pork belly, grilled ostrich fillet, roast rack of lamb, braised oxtail, grilled salmon and a porcini mushroom risotto, all served with a selection of autumn vegetables. Dessert options were chocolate fondant, lemon tart, crème brulée and toasted almond panacotta.
Activities and Amenities
Emily Moon River Lodge offers a selection of activities and is a great place for birdwatching. Canoes are available for a gentle paddle upriver, with lifejackets provided. There are also a few walking trails in the vicinity of the lodge and along local farm roads. Being in the Garden Route means that there is a wide variety of activities to suit every taste: From whale watching, canoeing, hiking/biking in the spectacular surrounding mountains to beaches, shops, and golf.
Emily Moon's second swimming pool is larger, far more private and for guests only. It’s located down steep steps beside the river, where you'll find sunloungers and umbrellas set out on a small lawned area.
You can also go to famous places such as Monkey Land, Birds of Eden and Tenikwa Wild Cat Sanctuary. You can have fun by going Whale, Dolphin and Seal watching, or you can get a rush with a High-Speed Boat trip. If you are brave enough, you can try Bungee Jumping at Bloukrans.
Important Information
On reaching Plettenberg Bay, follow the N2 highway East, passing the Shell Ultra and Engen fuel stations. After passing the Goose Valley golf course on the right, you will see a signboard for Emily Moon River Lodge. Turn left at the Rietvlei road sign (with a BUCO hardware store on the corner).
Each room has a telephone, but outside calls have to be made via reception at an additional cost. Full cellphone reception is available. Satellite TVs are located in each room.
Emily Moon is located only 5kms from doctors and a hospital in Plettenberg Bay.
There is a fire extinguisher and a smoke alarm in each room.
The balconies here are not suitable for children under the age of six. We recommend that families with young children either consider alternative accommodation or ensure close supervision when using the balconies.
There are in-room fireplaces in many of the rooms here. Our health and safety consultants inform us that these are not safe to use. As such, we recommend that guests stay in superior luxury suites without. fireplace.
Hotel Ratings
After their stay, our reviewers then give the hotel six scores out of 10, rating its location, style and character, service and facilities, rooms, food and drink, and value for money.
Price
Double rooms from ZAR 4,600 (£199) in low season; rising to ZAR 7,600 (£328) in high. Breakfast included.
Other Lodges Nearby
- The Plettenberg is a smart, beautifully designed hotel on the rocks of Plettenberg Bay.
- Hunters Country House is a luxurious lodge in spacious grounds.
- Fynbos Ridge is a small, owner-run guesthouse with a good environmental ethos.
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