In July 2021, we visited one of the best places in the world to learn about elephants: Elephant Watch Camp, located in Samburu National Reserve in Kenya.
This unique camp in Samburu National Reserve is perched on the sandy banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River beneath spreading acacia trees. It is home to some of the largest bull elephants in Africa, which are often spotted mudding in the river, resting in the shade or picking pods from trees beside the tents.
A Legacy of Conservation
The camp was created by the Douglas-Hamilton family, founders of Save the Elephants and the world’s premier elephant conservationists. The Douglas-Hamilton family are elephant researchers well known for their conservation endeavors, including Save the Elephants. Save the Elephants works closely with Elephant Watch Camp, and proceeds from the camp benefit elephant conservation efforts.
During our stay at Elephant Watch Camp, we visited Save the Elephants and learned all about their pioneering work to combat elephant poaching and loss of habitat all over Africa. Their work has paid off! In the recently published 2021 Kenya wildlife census, Kenya’s elephant population has increased 12% since 2014!
Expert Guides and Cultural Immersion
All guides at Elephant Watch Camp are from the local Samburu tribe. They are trained trackers and they know all of the elephant families in Samburu by name. The guides work closely with Save the Elephants before becoming guides and have a deep understanding of elephant behavior and wildlife in general. In addition to their wildlife knowledge, they will share their culture with you. Each evening, on our way back to camp, we listened to our group of guides sing traditional Samburu songs. It was a magical experience and one I will never forget!
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Living with Elephants
Eco-Friendly Design and Unique Accommodations
Eco-friendly Elephant Watch Camp is cleverly constructed of recycled trees and logs. As Elephant Watch was conceptualized, the camp’s owner took inspiration from nature. While walking through the forest he saw the towering dead trees stripped bare of their bark by elephants -- these became the long poles for the lodge/tent frames; the twisted branches were used for the walls, and the many other bits of wood were shaped into unique pieces of furniture. The camp would exist as part of the landscape, remaining as close to nature as possible.
Elephant Watch Camp was born -- completely eco-friendly with no waste, pollution, generators, garbage, chemicals or water wastage. Elephant Watch has a charcoal cold room, which keeps farm-grown organic fruits and vegetables fresh. Lighting is solar-powered. Coal-filled irons press guests’ laundered clothes. Elephant Watch contributes to Save the Elephants, which supports the continued international ban on ivory trade. Camp staff gather elephant census data and educate and involve local people to stimulate hands-on learning, environmental awareness and foster positive attitudes about conservation.
Colorful thatched-roofed tents are designed for maximum coolness, privacy and protection and have their own verandas. Crystal-clear camp water comes from a small village well; there is no running water at camp. Each tent has been specially designed around its own shade trees. Beautiful hand-made basins and painted buckets filled with clean sun-heated water offer guests a novel washing experience, and soft robes are provided for post-bathing comfort. Eco-flush toilets use a minimum amount of water.
The guest accommodation at Elephant Watch Camp comprises six spacious and netted tents, all with the same delightful thatched roofing as the main building. With their cotton drapes and gnarled beams, these are quite unlike anything else in Samburu! At the front of each tent, there is a veranda, perfect for sitting and admiring the view. Inside, there is a king-size bed, bedside tables and lamps, a flashlight, and a special bush cupboard with ample room for storing clothes and other items. All en-suite facilities are housed in a separate area, built around its own acacia for shade and privacy! They consist of flush toilet, washbasin and classic bucket shower - and each bucket has been painted by hand. We love this attention to detail, which is in evidence throughout the accommodation.
Authentic Vibe and Gourmet Cuisine
The main building is a joy to behold - a very distinctive thatched roof is supported by numerous wooden beams and on one side an entire tree! All materials are available locally, hence the camp’s status as an eco-property. Inside, both lounge and dining areas have a really authentic vibe. In the lounge, relax on luxurious sofas and chairs built from twisted acacia branches collected from trees felled by elephants. The lounge contains chunky wooden-framed seating with plenty of colorful cushions - this is positioned around coffee tables for guests to sit and chat or read from one of the books shelved close to the sitting area. The dining area consists of director’s chairs around separate tables.
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The campfire and hurricane lamps light up the dinner table, where superb organic food is served. Elephant Watch has become famous for its cuisine, a fusion of African and Italian influences to create an enticing bush gourmet. All food is prepared on-site and sourced from the camp’s garden as well as farther afield - for example, the foothills of Mount Kenya!
Unforgettable Wildlife Encounters
The main activity at Elephant Watch Camp is, of course, elephant watching, in both game drives and guided walks. Elephant watching begins on arrival. On your game drive from the airfield to camp the guides will introduce you to many of the well-known elephant families. Observing the gentle elephants as they slowly approach is an awe-inspiring experience. From your vehicle you will be surrounded by their sounds, smells and warm breath. Elephants can come very close -- you do not need to fear them -- but follow your guide’s directions and keep the proper distance.
Other inhabitants include reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Beisa oryx and more than 350 resident birds with an additional 70 migrant species, enjoyed most fully on birding walks. You may also spy lion, cheetah or a leopard in a tree. At night, lions roar and hyenas howl, owls hoot and baboons bark under the black sky with a million stars.
*This property is unfenced and located in a wildlife area, so large and potentially dangerous animals do pass through. If you opt to stay here, always be alert when walking around the camp and request for a member of staff to escort you if you have any concerns.
The below chart helps to illustrate major wildlife sightings often experienced in Samburu National Reserve. Other typical sightings may include unique subspecies, such as reticulated giraffe, endangered Grevy’s zebra, Somali ostrich and gerenuk as well as jackals, warthogs and a number of other mammals, birds and reptiles.
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| Wildlife | Description |
|---|---|
| Reticulated Giraffe | A giraffe species native to Somalia, southern Ethiopia, and northern Kenya. Recognizable by its distinctive net-like pattern. |
| Grevy's Zebra | The largest of the wild equids and the most threatened of the three zebra species. |
| Somali Ostrich | Also known as the blue-necked ostrich, is a large flightless bird found in the Horn of Africa. |
| Gerenuk | Also known as the giraffe gazelle, is a long-necked antelope found in dry regions of East Africa. |
A Truly Unique Experience
A stay at Elephant Watch Camp is a truly unique experience. Having been on at least 100 safaris all over Africa, I can say I have never had an experience quite like the one at Elephant Watch Camp. It is highly recommended for anyone with a deep interest in conservation, elephants, wildlife behavior, and Samburu culture. As the camp was originally built to accommodate visiting researchers, you will often find your fellow camp guests have many stories to share about Africa. The film crew of Big Cat Diary was staying at the camp while we were there - working on their next project!
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