Whenever I see Adire or Aso Oke fabric, I feel like I am not just looking at cloth - I am witnessing a centuries-old legacy of creativity, tradition, and cultural expression. These textiles, deeply rooted in Nigerian culture, have been passed down through generations, carrying with them stories of artistry and heritage. In recent years, brands like DyeLab have emerged, breathing new life into these traditional crafts and showcasing their versatility on a global stage.
Let's delve into the history of Adire and Aso Oke, exploring their origins and significance, before examining how DyeLab is changing the narrative around these iconic fabrics.
What is Adire?
Adire is a traditional Nigerian textile that holds a special place in the hearts of many. The word “adire” is derived from the Yoruba language, meaning “tie and dye.” Adire is a fabric dyeing technique that involves creating intricate patterns using resist-dyeing methods. It is a language of colors expressed through the art of dye - a true ode to the artists who breathe life into lifeless fabric, infuse meaning into colors, and transform mere threads into vessels of emotion and history.
Adire textile skill was considered to be inborn, and inherited by birth. The craft was once thought to be a family-run enterprise in Egba territory. Parents passed the techniques down to their female children and the wives of their sons. For a long time, those who were not from a certain family were not permitted to participate in the production. The first Adire material was created with Teru (local white clothing) and Elu (local dye), which are produced using Elu leaves grown in the Saki region of Oyo state.
Adire was first produced in Jojola’s compound of Kemta, Abeokuta by Chief Mrs. Miniya Jojolola Soetan, the second Iyalode (Head of Women) of Egba land. She then passed on the process to her children and onwards to future generations.
Read also: The Rise of Nigerian Basketball
What is Aso Oke?
Aso oke fabric is a hand-woven cloth. The name ‘aso oke’ is translated as ‘top cloth’ in English, and it is difficult not to find aso oke in any important Yoruba ceremonious gathering. It is made of Iro, buba, gele, and ipele. Even till now, I see it as an adornment of regality, a manifestation of tradition and culture.
Aso-Oke started centuries ago amongst the Yoruba, primarily among the Ede (Osun State), Iseyin (Oyo State), and Okene (Kogi State). It is produced by knitting straps of cotton fabrics with other materials, using a wooden locally crafted machine that makes it easy for the cloth maker to match cloth straps with precision.
With many different colors and designs, aso oke is always eye-catching and will forever be an important source of adornment for the Yoruba people who are majorly socialites and love ‘owambe.’ It’s safe to say that a typical Yoruba party is incomplete without Aso Oke.
It is said that the beauty of Aso-Oke comes out more when it is taken as Aso-Ebi, but have you seen the making of Aso Oke? My first encounter with the process of making Aso Oke, also known as Aso-Ofi, was in 2012 at Ajibode, behind Ajogbo Grammar School. It was always fascinating to watch the fingerwork and legwork, sets of thread interlaced together on the looming structure, the weaving, the shimmer of gold and silver threads, and the kaleidoscope of colors that brought joy to the eyes.
HOW TO MAKE ASO OKE - Art of weaving fabric practiced by the Yoruba's in Nigeria. #asoke #weaving
How DyeLab is Changing the Trend
All my adult life, I felt Aso Oke is something you wear to an elegant party making it ones in a while or year kind of thing, and Adire is meant for festivals or religious places but DyeLab changes the narrative. Through Adire, Aso Oke, and lively Batik prints, they weave stories of tradition, passion, and creativity. In the hands of Dye Lab, garments become canvases, and colors come to life.
Read also: Requirements for Nigeria Police Clearance
DyeLab was founded during the challenging days of the Covid-19 pandemic in 2021 and since then, its mission has gone beyond fashion. It is a testament to the power of culture, community, and sustainable practices. Through their collections, DyeLab is marrying cultural heritage with modern sensibilities.
As you step into the world of DyeLab, you are not just acquiring a piece of clothing, but a tangible connection to Nigeria’s rich heritage. Founded in 2020 and operated from Nigeria (where the clothes are also made), Dye Lab has situated itself as a formidable cultural artifact. Its signature Agbadas, boubous, and flared tops have become a staple in the wardrobe of the socially savvy African. The colors on their prints are bright, bold, and repeatedly referenced. As a Nigeria-based brand, Dye Lab has managed to maintain a global outlook and a continental sensibility. To think of someone wearing a Dye Lab outfit is to imagine them dressed for a day party in Nairobi or an evening soiree in Accra. Such is the versatility and ubiquity of their designs.
One major discovery they've made is the immense logistical difficulty of travelling and doing business across different African countries. The duo say that it's often easier and more reliable to shop outside of Africa than within it. "We always say we are an Africa-first brand, and so we prioritize African countries even more so than the West. It's very difficult, as everyone knows, to travel and ship within Africa. Due to the peculiarities in the different countries where these pop-ups are held, the timeline for the planning of a Dye Lab pop-up is dependent on a variety of, often uncontrollable factors.
"The pop-ups happen quite organically. For example, if we go to a city and we meet someone who's like, "Oh, you should come to my city. I have a shop. What follows are weeks of marketing, an inventory estimation, and an assessment of which designs and fabrics would work best in specific cities. The latter is a crucial lesson the duo has learned to adapt to. Etomi recalls a pop-up event they hosted in Accra where buyers shied away from the clothing made from red fabrics. That peculiarity also features in other places.
"In French-speaking African countries, they're not that interested in events, so if we're having a pop-up, we just need to set up the retail space, and they shop at their own pace." This was a shock for the duo, who are used to creating a festive vibe at their pop-ups. The duo says the lessons continue to help shape their global language, but also encourages them to introduce Dye Lab to countries where many might be unfamiliar. This also presents an opportunity for Ladoja to educate shoppers who may have stigmas around the quality of African designs. Even as the duo hopes that intra-African travel becomes easier and cross-border payments become seamless, they are aware of the vital pathway they are laying for the future of African brands seeking to expand globally.
Read also: Nigeria's Thriving Music
"We are trying to create what that playbook looks like for a brand that was born in Nigeria, operating in Nigeria, operating with local resources. OkayAfrica is the premiere digital platform bringing the worlds of African music, art, culture, style, sports and politics to a global audience.
What defines a Dye Lab Pop-Up? The answer depends on the city where the pop-up takes place. In Chicago, it's a thrilling, communal cultural gathering. And in Houston, it's an exciting taste of the familiar amongst the many Nigerian communities in Texas. In Dakar, things take a more laid-back, languid approach; buyers walk in, pick up their items, and walk out.
Have you seen DyeLab designs on women? Lmao, it gives a rich aunty vibe, consistency queen, unbothered, elegant.
| City | Experience |
|---|---|
| Chicago | Thrilling, Communal Cultural Gathering |
| Houston | Exciting taste of the familiar amongst Nigerian communities |
| Dakar | Laid-back, Languid Shopping Experience |
Popular articles:
tags: #Nigeria
